RBZ 260

Tell the bastard to get of his fat arse and look up the numbers on the pc. Or change the dealer. He may be right none in stock in Aus but im pretty sure ex japan within 2 weeks. My nissan spare parts guy is brilliant. Most of the items i asked for still available.though cost on some stuff is quite exy. Let me know if u have issues with nissan and ill check with my guy.

You sure don't muck around. Good start. Have fun with colour choices. My choices keep changing. Go with your gut feel and you make the right decision.

if you want to cut and shut lenses if you visit plastic mob (ie people that sell polycarbonate and acrylic sheets) We got few in Adelaide one of them is http://www.acrilixplastics.com.au/about_us.htm i believe the lenses are either polycarbonate or acrylic. there is a special glue that glues these plastics together quite well. i used it at my previous work making test equipment. its clear and dries rock hard. just found it its called Acri Bond 110. tube is approx $17 http://www.acrylictech.com.au/MSDS-110.html trick would be to cut it perfectly. polish the cut edges and thin layer of the glue and u have your integrated lenses. than you have to make a divider between indicator and reverse light (paint or stick reflective vinyl. reposition the lamp hole for indicator and cut a new one for reverse light. possible. bit of stuffing around and experimenting on expensive clear lenses. also u need to plug the old holes where original reverse light were. bit of plastic welding and repainting.

interesting discussion. Peter to make an exact replica of a 2 seater like most guys said it ain't worth it. but i believe it is possible to improve the profile of the 2+2. Just before i wrote of my 2+2, I was planing on making the 260z nicer on profile. As I had issue with my sunroof and wanted to remove it i was planing in removing the hump and modifying the rear 1/4 glass to suit so it looks more sleek like a 240z does. I spent lot of time thinking,measuring and photoshoping this idea. Even had all the parts ready to do the update. (photoshoping was done using same size pic of a 240z profile and matching as it was on my window mock up in real so pretty close to what it will look like). Stage 1. The gutter line is somewhat following the line of the 240z just longer. If you look carefully on the 240z the rear section the roof height is similar height from gutter line from windscreen all the way to the rear hatch. On the 260z 2+2 the front section is similar to 240z in height but drastically increases 5cm or so into the roof. at the back u got almost 1.5" of extra height for the back seats. To do this i would have carefully cut the roof line with a dremel tool (or equivalent small cut off disk. you don't want heat to distort the roof ) take the hump part out. Lower the rear tailgate subframe (the inner panel) accordingly. if cut properly and on correct angle the roof line should follow the new contour of the gutter lip. the lips will be need to extend as well to take into account the new 1/4 glass. Trim the top part of the rear 1/4 panels to suit the new roof line. (seen this done on one of the hot rod doco's in USA which gave me the initial idea) basically just lowering the roof skin. Stage 2. Tailgate will have to be slightly modified as well to follow the new roofline. Few hrs with hammer and dolly would get it into shape. Stage 3. using 2 seater rear 1/4 glass and 2+2. Replace the rear end of the 2+2 with the 2 seater version to get that unique notched rear. To do this: Place the 240z glass over the 2+2 one till the both top and bottom part of the 240z glass aligns up with the 2+2. Mark it and cut and shut the two pieces. You will notice the glass is slightly longer. hence the reason for extending the gutter slightly more to accommodate it. since its straight glass no rear curve to it. make a template out of correct thickness plywood and take it to glass people to cut u a new one.. i was quoted approx $50each. Stage 4. Modifying the rear 1/4 panels to suit the new 1/4 glass. this could be done few different ways. easiest would be to get the same section of a 2 seater. cut and shut it in. and your done. alternatively is to cut the 1/4 panel and make a new lip following the new 1/4 glass. bit more for the skilled. On the end should look like this Before After Its not for the faint hearted or people with low panel beating skills. It would be fairly involved but in my opinion very "dooable" for an average panel beater (a breeze for an old school panel beater) . It be very unique without actually touching any structural part of the car. What I didn't mention is the mods required to inside trimming as well but if you got through the first 4 stages that will be easy. Pitty I never got to do it. Both of my cars now are 2 seaters so no need. Maybe one day when all my project are finished is to do up another 2+2 with this in mind and few other crazy ideas I have bouncing in my silly head. (got to stop watching hot rod shows give me bad ideas ) If anyone is serious about this I will gladly share more info. PS: Mick that photochop wouldnt work 2+2 door glass is lot higher at the back than the 2 seater. plus looks erm ........ yeah. stay away from photo chopping please

Bit of a late welcome but better late than never. Welcome and see you on Saturday. may have original bonnet vents for you if interested.

sorry for late reply Bozo and the rest of the guys. As most guys know been busy and away from internet for some while. Thanks to Mick and John for helping out. What John said is absolutely correct. Just to add few things for future. As Mick said. Used fiberglass (what they make boats and spoilers out of) not body filler. Body filler also known as bog or fiberglass filler was only used to fix up small imperfections. Ideally I would not use it at all as it causes problems later, and probably needs to be deleted from the initial step. Even though the fiberglass didn't crack but when subjected to high temperatures (45C AMB on the sun at my work inside the car over 100C for sure for 8hr a day for 5 days a week ) the body filler lifted of from the fiberglass and resulting in cracked paint. Just remix more fiberglass resin and sand till perfect is my solution to imperfections. It may take lot more time to do but it will last lot longer. also 2pk primer is lot more robust. not sure of longevity using acrylic primers. Would be interesting to see how Bozo's responds to daily use. Fiberglass kits can be bought as a small kit through repco, supercheap and sprints. Also any boat shop specialising in repairs will have it. If in Adelaide Glass Craft Marine in the City can supply larger kits including carbon fiber sheets Also a WARNING to first time uses of fiberglass and resins. 1. Wear gloves and masks 2. use correct mixing ratio. too mach hardner ends up in flames so be very careful. not enough hardner wont set it off. do small quantities till you get he hang of it. test first on something else. 3. once its set be careful of pointy fiberglass needles. wear leather gloves. fiberglass splinters are very painful and hard to remove. Again wear a mask while sanding as fiberglass is nasty stuff. watch this space for more updates as for my 240z's will be repeating this process to some degree, with different finishes PS: if in future anyone needs any help please either email or PM. i don't get notifications on my old posts.

thanks for the replies guys. Jason PM replied. John, well i pop around every now and then. just been quiet and busy with the house (which thankfully is getting closer to the end, still lots of work but not urgent) will check your stuff for sale.

ok guys need to start my 240z project asap. Stage 1 needs to commence fairly soon while I still have my daily and z needs to be on the road before it gets sold. as per title. ENGINE: any L24,L26 or L28. with early carby setup. in good running condition. Need a engine to go over the pits. so no smokey engines. preffer early L24 but any will do. Gearbox: Again any 5spd will do but ideal original 240z box let me know what you guys have. Not after hotted up schmick engine just something reasonable (cheapish) to get my car over the pits and to remove the defect. Also something that can drive me around for few months reliably till I get my next toy completed. Please any guys from Adelaide that have anything like it pm me. saves me the transportation cost. but will consider interstate if price is right. Cheers Johnny

weather seals etc... try Rare Spares on South Road.

welcome to the nuthouse. The car does look familiar just wonder where I have seen it before Salty you seen the car before too?

love it. awsome job. you going to love the sr20det. Crazy little engine. had mine for over 12years now and still going strong. I gave it reasonable hard time over those years.

well i'm not a drift monkey but did shatter few of these in a s14. (Drag monkey, ) what i have: S13 manual out of a CA18DE noisy bearings S14 s2 manual (not sure about the damage 2nd gear went bang never opened it. And my trophy S14 S2 manual with all 5 gears destroyed. 70% of first 3 gears completely stripped. not for sale i'm hanging that up in my new workshop. offering to speed gods. Pitty for you i'm in Adelaide. So maybe drive further down

R.I.P Aidan

well to confuse the issue. my 1970 has original tailgate and glass and has no demister. i'm pretty sure its original tailgate and glass that was never removed (its rusted shut) my 1972 had someone fit a S1 tailgate (one with vents on it like the early ones) which has vertical demister so early S1 did come with vertical demister and seems to be a option that not many people ticked. I have seen 72 to 74 with horizontal demisters. Now if they fitted a 260z I wouldn't know.

awsome. make sure u get a video cam running as well and post it for us to drool.

+1 that has to be worth lot more with those bits. what about the Sports Almanac? nice car if i only had spare $55K :'(

my 72 with S1 vented hatch has vertical demisters lines. is it a 72 glass on 70 hatch or 70 hatch and glass? beats me. maybe need to see the glass in more detail if any date codes on it. the 70 one I got doesn't have a demister at all. has a plug provision but no switch in dash like the 72. wasn't demister (vertical ) optional on early cars and than were standard in later model cars. not sure if the ones in later cars were vertical or horizontal personally I think vertical ones look cooler.

Salty my condolence as well to you and your family.

Welcome, as a previous owner of a 260z 2+2 great choice u love it. Be patient good car will come. Though ur budget may need lifting if u take too long Hahaha someone thinks they are Sienfield! Yeah we too busy working (building sheds/cars in our flares and 1" thick reading glasses) instead of talking about it on forums. Roberto is right time to go to sleep.

cheers Scoota thank god i don't have to do any rust repair on mine. been done full rotiserie and blast job. just strip the paint (don't like the colour/finish currently on) realign few panels that im not happy with and new coat of paint.

Bastard that's what I was planning for my 240 good choice BTW. RE : dash restore sounds good what u plan. lots of work but it be solid. if u have a hard paintable surface may aid in resitance in surface cracking. even suede it may not crack but it may bulge/erupt incase it moves somewhere.

nice find Gav. yeah 'im not sure if i could do that to a fastback (not even to a notchback for that matter) well i wouldn't pay for the kit. i rather have it looking stockish. its a phase due to the movie but its wearing off in mustang community. And RB26DETT in mustang conversion AKA Tokyo Drift Mustang is one of most hated Mustangs within Mustang community in OZ. They believe it was only a movie stunt and the car doesn't exist Basicaly if aint a BIG Ford V8 with some monster Holley carby on top or supercharger it aint a mustang and its not worth anything. Words like 6Cyl or Turbo shouldn't be mentioned alone. in one sentence u get death by stoning. Ive been contemplating fitting a Barra 4L turbo in mine or Late 5l EFi with twin turbo or late Boss 260 290 motor. all fairly unpopular mods. since possible future sale of my car and not restricting it to younger peeps with no money got to go old school some big Dino V8 351 W or C or maybe a Boss 302 spec engine with " Some HUGE" holley carb and few shiny ford racing bits so they can see their reflection in it. it will cost me more double to rebuild an old clunker to get 3/4 of the Hp that I could get out of a turbo'd engine. Maybe once i sell it and get my fastback that i wont sell and build it the way i want it.

Happy Bday Lurch all the best

believe it or not they still use the same technique John. Well the guys here anyway. What i did with mine is gauged the cracks lot wider till healthy looking sponge/space invider style foam is reached. Than filled it with u guess it with expanding foam. Sanded it into shape. than fiber-glassed the top half. sanded, filled as u will a car body. painted it two pack primer. it all worked fine but it did have one flaw. with large gaps i suggest u insert a 3-6mm rods or wide mesh inserted as deep as possible into the original foam. this should stop the separation between old and new and keep it in shape. alternatively make a fiberglass mould of a good dash. than no issues of cracking or getting out of shape. sorry if none of that made any sense. got a bit of a headache

John you on fire im gone for few days and there u gone mad, made an iphone dock, redone the climate fascia WOW. Looking good mate. one of a kind love it.