PZG302

All the new glass for my chugger spent it's life in the cardboard box it came in in the garage in a spot where shit wouldn't fall on it. It survived near ten years no problem and a house move. i still have the original glass from the chuggger tucked away under the house on edge and stacked together in an out of the way spot just in case the new stuff gets damaged and it is OK as long as I am aware of it stacking other car parts around them. For short term storage I have had screens out of the way on panel stands wrapped in horse blankets and haven't broken one yet. But if you can get it inside the house and tucked away where it won't be broken all the better

You get what you pay for, but the BC's aren't too bad, probably better than most of the cheap coilovers. As Lurch said, if the budget is there, go the MCA's. If it isn't then the BC's will serve you well for a road car that sees a bit of track time.

I also have a bare N42 head off a 280 with the injector notches in the casting, but up here in Brisbane

$400 will see it out my door, $450 and I can deliver it next weekend before I head off.

I have a L28 in my garage that is for sale, long motor, but no manifolds or ancilleries, will need to be puled down and checked at least. I am Brisbane, if you are keen it will need to be gone this week as I fly out for work next Monday morning. Also have a bare N42 head that would be perfect as a base to do some work on to get a bit more or a lot more out of as well.

Dave, the blue dorians are the first gen version and the orange ones the second gen version. They both use the same infrastructure in the tracks to register the time. The blue ones are about twice the size of the orange ones, so if you find an orange one for sale grab it.

My old "caterpillar" motor, because the block waqs painted yellow, that I had in my first Zed, and was carried over to my green zed for a while, was a N42 block that also handled a 90mm bore, but after a couple of seasons of racing, at refresh time it was throw it out as the bores were starting to get oval and couldn't be used. Oh how I miss the days of picking up L28 blocks for nothing......

The blue car would cook anything up to the hawks, including black flash and the pads i used to get made for it. The green car would cook anything less than hawk dt70 pads on the front and the rear pads would last one season before being replaced due to overheating. I ran a good high performance road pad on the rear to get the brake balance that worked for me. And I used standard solid rotors on the rear and tp magna rotors on the front. The rear rotors lasted over 10 seasons. The front rotors were replaced every second set of pads as they would be worn down like an hourglass and starting to get heat cracks, but they were cheap and did the job. I only used slotted rotors once and they lasted one race, the pads were that aggressive. Standard vented rotors lasted much better. Also driving style does come into what pads will work best for someone. I have tried pads that others raved about and thought that a dunlop volley on a stick was better, yet others have usednthe hawks which i reckon are great and will say they are terrible pads.

Richard, All the pads have been played with and all come up short in a standard Zed. As Jason has said it is the heat that can't be dissipated that obviously builds up and then eventually cooks the brakes, or very quickly cooks the brakes depending on the circuit. The zeds have been battling this in Group S since noah raced the ark. Before the Porsches came in Group S in numbers it wasn't as big a problem, but was still a problem. It is never inspiring to have your foot go to the floor on the track. Even in the old Division 2 Marque Sports, the precursor to 2F, Zeds would struggle with standard brakes until you took the plunge to run 2B with the associated freedoms. My old Blue 260, ex Steve Cox, car would suffer badly around the Sydney tracks in the longer races even with using Hawk DT70 pads. Once I got the green Zed with the discs all round and vented rotors up front with 4 spot Wilwoods, and pad size wasn't much bigger, I had the best brakes I had seen in a Zed in the mid 90's and no fade or heat problems what so ever. The quickest way to sort the brakes in my Zed was to go up to Group 2B and create an orphan that wasn't competitive after the late 90's and too modified to play in Sc and built too late to play in Group T. The only way to resolve the issue is to look at running a vented rotor at least, which Jason and the others from down south have pursued to no avail, let alone run the 4 spot calipers and bigger rotors.

Only downside is the extra fuel it burns, about 20-25% more depending on the application. For this reason, my build will be tuned for 98 pump fuel so I can compete in one hour enduros with the standard tank as it is in the safest location in the S14 and a small surge pot that will be within the rules and make sure I get the one hour range I need. For sprint and hill climb events this is not an issue.

If you haven't got this sorted before the 24th, I get back from Indonesia and I think I still have my driveshaft from the race car which is what you want. If I do, I am sure we sort something out, beer or whisky economy is good......

To me it's a race car, so you must be prepared to lose it all and recover nothing if you are taking it on the track. I know I have on two occasions. The first was a good lesson and now why I don't borrow any money to buy a race car. In that case, if someone offers what you want, take the money and run and use for the business. If that succeeds you can build another faster car in the future. If it doesn't, you die wondering and you can still build another faster car in the future. But i would be one the last people to do sensible things with cars

And a good dyno operator will ask how much horsepower do you want today.....

But an expensive one Gav. I was quoted $2500 at mate's rates for the race car, I'm getting a cheap paint job in white instead...... Also the surface has to be pretty good to get a good result with the vynal. Like paintwork, preparation is important.

Dunno If I'd want a gearbox with a shot shit conversion Lurch....... Maybe a short shift conversion would be better......

I think Lurch summed it up a few pages ago, a car is worth what it is when it's sold. Anything else is pure guess work and until you have the cash in your hand you don't really know what the car is worth to you or the market place. At the moment I can think of a tale of two cars from this forum. One a car that underwent "ridiculous" restoration that if looked at from a rational financial point of view would make no sense what so ever, but a beautiful example of craftsmanship and of a 240Z. It was for sale for a fair amount of time with everyone oohing and ahhing over it saying they wish they had the dollars, but no buyers. It could be argued that the price was too high, but it sold, so for the person who bought it, they saw value in it a price that was agreeable to them and to the owner. I have no isea what the price was, nor do I care and good luck to both the seller and buyer, both had a win. One realised what he valued his car at and another bought a car for a value he was happy to pay. The second car, has been for sale for a while also, but is a bit rougher in the looks, not registered, but is highly developed to a set of very tight rules and can be argued punches above its weight in the field it competes in. At the moment it could be argued that it is overvalued by the seller, as no one has bought it yet, however that is not to say the car is overvalued because no one has bought it, it is just that no one has seen the value in that car at the present price point. Next week that someone may turn up and handover a huge wad of cash and take away that car because that is the one they must have and at a price they see as value for money. In both cases, I don't think the sellers need to sell, therefore the value they put on the car will be higher than if that particular asset needs to be disposed of quickly. In a pure asset management point of view all cars over about 5 years old are worthless anyway as they have passed their useful lives and have been depreciated and replaced, so it can be argued that a 240Z is worthless as it is beyond its design life, as are my cars that I have as toys, but would I give them away? No, as I have attached a value to them. Offer me the right sort of money, and pretty much anything is for sale.

I'll way in on this debate.... I know one thing that definitely devalues a Zed..... Crash it, that really makes the value drop when you go from a fully functioning and fairly quick car to a heap of steaming metal that is 12 inches shorter and twisted and doesn't look pretty. The only up side, I could quote one of the coolest lines from a movie ever, "Zed's dead baby, Zed's dead"

On my old race Zed the standard spring perches were cut off and rewelded onto the struts about 50mm lower using the same springs it had before. However, the springs were made by Lovells to suit the rate needed and the height. The advantage it gave me was the same length of travel in the suspension for a 2" drop in static ride height. In terms of hitting the bump stops it wasn't an issue as it was a track only car and the spring rates were very stiff for a Zed, 450lb/inch on the front and about 400lb/inch on the back. The big disadvantage is that the spring perch is lowered meaning you have to be much more careful in wheel choice, especially if running big diameter wheels. I hade a 3-4mm gap to the tyre side wall running 18x8" rims with a negative 3mm offset. I was lucky that the slicks I used were the equivalent of a 30 series tyre and had a very stiff sidewall any way. This was done because the options weren't available over 15 years ago when the car was built, so today I would do it properly and go the way Doug and Jake have with properly set up coilovers.

Yep, they will be fine as you don't comply with Sc anyways....

Not the best picture as it was after the car was binned, but here is where I mounted mine....

The steering should be in my old shell still that Patch has down the coast of you have no other luck.

If you can pick one up quickly, the overflow bottle from a NA6 MX5 will fit really nicely on the inner guard with the top above the radiator so coolant isn't siphoned out of the radiator and also looks factory. I used one in my old 240 and it only cost me $10 from a MX5 wrecker in Brisbane, so it shouldn't be an expensive item to procure and will look better than the generic overflow that won't fit anywhere

I will be buying Koya wheels for my S14. The semi forged 18" are light and also have the advantage of being able to be machined for custom offset and PCD to suit a variety of cars and fitment. As I will be trying to stuff as much wheel under the guards without having to use flares if I can get away with it, this is big advantage for me. The price is also pretty competitive for what they are.

I had Re002's on the hairdresser car when I first got it, were a very good tyre for general driving duties, a quick blat on the back roads around me and the odd trackday, especially when on the tread wear indicators. I would buy again.

And I just happen to have a set of 133mm rods available if you need them.....