PZG302

Yes, but for what purpose??? The racing homologation paperwork shows wheels up to 10" wide.

To answer your question Richard, maybe.... The Green Zed ran a standard 240 tank with an internal "swirl pot" welded around the pickup, was just a small barrier to prevent sloshing fuel and cavitation of the pump pickup. The fuel then went into a large glass truck filter and then up to the engine. Worked reasonably well, but had to run a minimum of 15 litres for a race to stop surge and cavitation. When the motor got rebuilt up here I then went to a more traditional low pressure, high volume pump into a 2 litre surge tank and then high pressure EFI pump from surge to motor all tucked up under the floor. This worked much better as I able to use all the fuel down to the last litre without surge. And for the dash, the new dashes are great, configure to show only what you need with warnings and auto shut downs that can be configured. I only ran the gauges in my car due to the regs at the time, now these have changed, so configurable data logging dash for me. If I was running analog gauges i would have the following: Tacho Water temp Oil temp Oil pressure maybe volts, and Big red light for oil pressure and a big yellow light for charge for if a belt is thrown. Lap timer maybe for sprints, but as my priority is race times are less important in wheel to wheel. GPS, probably not for old analog dash, but with the new car, as it is part of the system I will have it for data analysis for car set up.

Don't you have litres of fuel used come up in the dash like Holdens and Fords since for ever??

But with "smart" dashes that measure fuel used through the injectors it should be easy enough to set an alarm when x amount of fuel is used and you know you put y amount in, just make sure that y > x or you could have problems Problem with in tank fuel senders is that they are inherently inaccurate when driven on the track due to the cornering forces involved. I know it is dependant on using said data capable dashes/loggers ecu to do this, but the cost of them makes it easily attainable for most people no days. Especially when a brand new ECU with all the latest wizz bang tech is the same price I paid for a Haltech F9 computer 20 years ago to be one of the cool kids with injection.

But for a race car why do need fuel sender? Not being a smart arse, serious question... The Zed never ran one. I knew roughly how much the fuel burn was and then just put that plus a bit to cover the number of laps to be done. At the end of the weekend, drain the tank of the avgas and put in the road ute or Fairlane for a bit of oomph. Depending on dash and other electronics being used, couldn't you work out fuel level from use and then fill from there based on number of laps to be done? And the foam bricks won't move around or break up when you shove enough in the tank, hardest part is getting the bricks to the corners away from the opening where you put them in. Not sure who got the tank from the green Zed, but it still had the foam in it when I sold it.

By the looks of it that wing would be a copy of the "IMSA" wing run by the factory teams in the States in the mid 70's. They do work better than the bobtail on a track car, but not legal for Historic Sc.

I would strongly recommend using the foam in any tank Richard. I will be filling the standard tank on the S14 with foam. The foam I had in the old 240 lasted 15 years with no problems and saved me in one big crash at Oran Park where the tank was ripped from the straps and the filler neck pulled from the tank. With out the foam the 5 or so litres of fuel that sprayed out everywhere over the back of the car would have been much worse and much hotter if that became the 20 or 30 litres that was in the tank. Also putting out plenty of fuel fires as a firie, the tanks with foam were much nicer to deal with as the fuel was held and effectively released in a leaking tank in a much more controlled manner that could be easily dealt with using a foam extinguisher or fire bomb. Ig you use the holley fuel mat on the bottom and then place the foam on top to fill the tank you should get no surge with low volumes, and if the worse does happen the amount of fuel splashing around is very limited.

For me, just rebuild the L24 keeping the standard crank. Parts for you will be readily available, compared to getting a RB crank sorted, and assembly should be able to be done by the guys you have access to. The benefit of the L28 would be not worth the effort with what you have to go through to keep it all legal, plus a well built L24 should spin quicker than a L28 with the same dollars spent, so would be more fun.

And you wouldn't.........

And can you deliver them for me, 'cause I wont get centrelink until next week and i still won't have enough for petrol

Or three lizards, and a fish tank

Would you take a SS ute plus cash my way as a swap?

The Ohlins has 15 more clicks..... That's gotta be better right?? The shock dyno shows that the dampers work, but what about your spring rates, heights, geometry, wheels and tyres used and so on. Suspension set up is part science, part common sense and bark black magic voodoo stuff that only level 15 and above wizards like Gandalf understand. You really need to look at the set up as a whole rather than take one piece in isolation. What may work well for one person may not work for someone else. Unfortunately Richard you are on a journey of discovery and wonder on your own as not many people have tracked the Z31, and as you have found out there are bugger all off the shelf parts. A bit like my old 180B 3J car, plenty used for rally, but no one really circuit raced them and with the rules I had to run to was rather limited in what i could do, so ended up with very different suspenion to any other 180B in terms of dampers and springs, something like 900lb springs in the front and 1200lb springs in the back to control the trailing arms on the bum of the car while running the standard 5" wide wheels at the standard ride height. When we moved to IPRA spec, the ride height dropped, the wheels went up to 7" wide and the spring rates only got higher as we cut the coils to help control the trailing arms again. My only advice, do the sensible changes and make lots of notes, get the best out of the car and you before making another wholesale change, so when the car goes better or worse you will know whether the time was due to the set up or you.

As Jason and Tom have said it is a different driving style to a normal LSD or open diff. My old green Zed ran CIG lockers in various ratios, and was pretty easy to drive when the suspension was set up right. Take the locker out and my car became an oversteering pig. Once you get used to it they are really fun to drive. The new S14 has a mechanical 2 way LSD that has been set up to be basically a locker/spool in behaviour on the track. The suspension has also been set up to suit. It sounds like you have a handle on the driving style required so you will only get quicker as you get more used to it.

Hmmm, food for thought for me their Jason if I end up spending a lot more time offshore in the next few years. Sell up the house and just have a shed for the cars. For the time I am in Brisbane I could just rent a serviced apartment for a few weeks at a time. Would be alot cheaper than keeping a house and the associated dramas when you aren't there.

As it's obviously been parked upside down for those 20 odd years going by your photo, will you take $2500 for it?? Good thing I have run out of room and had my fun with roofless cars for a while.

Nope, 4.3 is the best ratio for the tracks I will run at. Only track that it may be an issue is Bathurst, and I can't see me running there anytime soon with work. With the rules I run to and limitations on turbos and manifolds I am better off having something that will punch out of the turns and accelerate than something with a long top end. With the 4.3 diff, top speed by the gear calc program with the tyres I run, 240 or 270, 640 or 650, 18's will see a top speed of around 220km/h in 4th, and an achievable 230 or so in 5th, more than enough for the three Queensland tracks, plus SMP and Wakefield if I race down south.

Ah, OK S14 will be short nose, but perfect ratio. Offer is still there if you want it. I won't be using it now I have my my 4.3 diff set up in the shell.

If a S14 diff will suit your needs I have a standard one from one of my old shells that you can take off my hands when I get back from Indo in September. From memory they are around a 3.7:1

Just read the PDS very carefully from all companies that you are considering and make sure that the policy from the company you are going to use suits your needs and that if you ever have to claim it doesn't become one huge shit fight. One good example where people have been stung is to buy an agreed value policy to find out when the time comes to claim that the company will only pay out on the market value or agreed value, whichever is the cheaper. So check the PDS carefully. I have heard horror stories from some discount insurers on the claims side of things, but they are marketing to a segment that is price conscious only and usually don't read PDS's or look into how the claim process will work. There are a few of these companies that when i plug any of my cars into their systems to generate a quote I am refused due to age of car of that it is a performance vehicle, '79 Merc 280SE and FG MKII XR6 Turbo ute were the cars i tried with some "budget" companies to see what prices I could get. Have also been affected by the claims process of one major company that did say choice of repairer, but when you exercise that choice, they will only pay you up to the value of what their repairer has quoted to do the job, from photos only and not looking at the work needed, leaving you out of pocket to get the repair done the way want it done by who you want it done by, even when it is a not at fault claim.

The only drama I have had with famous is that they have never replied to my quote requests through their website. And comparing insurance between people in different locations, different ages etc is a nightmare. Personally I have all my cars and house and contents through Shannons, except for my work ute. The policy conditions and benefits work nicely for me and my circumstances, but may or may not work for yours. I probably fit Shannons customer profile better than a lot of others here, old fart with a reasonably good driving history in terms of infringements and claims in a leafy "safe" suburb with low usage cars. Having said that, each year I get a range of quotes to make sure I am not being stung with the lazy tax on my policies to keep them honest.

Steve, have you tried some of the Hawk pads, up around the HT70 compounds??? I used them in my 2B car on the front with 4 spot dynalites and vented TP Magna rotors. Different rules I know, but the pads may last the round as I used to get half a season out of them on the Sydney tracks. They were harsh on rotors though, a rotor would last two sets of pads comfortably, and could squeeze a third set of pads depending on where the races were as the rotors would get very hourglass in profile and start to get a lot of fine cracking in the surface and obvious hot spots. It maybe an option to throw a set of the Hawks on with a fresh set of rotors and see how they go for a weekend. Dead easy to download the Hawk catalog from the website to peruse the different compounds and also better to purchase from www.hawkpadsdirect.com The price for two sets delivered will be about the same as one set from local suppliers even with the crappy exchange rate at the moment. The tech guys are very helpful also, if you want a contact I could dig up the email address of the guy i dealt with when trying to sort out what pads to use in my old bus for you.

Does my 3 speed C4 auto in my old ZG driven manually that I ran at Mt Cotton and in regularity at QR count as driving a sequential gearbox? The you are right Simon there is no comparison

AU to BF Falcon wagon, preferably on gas would be the perfect family truckster. Solid, parts are cheap and they go on for ever. But I would also vote for any Valiant wagon from VE to the CM, preferably with an engine change to either E49+ spec on triples 265 or proper six pack on top of a 440.

It is interesting to note that a lot of people froth over the P90 head for performance when in a lot of cases it takes a lot of work to make it worth while, which can be achieved cheaper using other heads like the N42.. On my old green beast with standard injectors and built purely for circuit, I had one motor with a well worked P90 head, but we found the N42 head was better suited for what we wanted, and much easier to find one in good condition. The same bottom end combination with the N42 head swapped on from the P90 made a bit more power, but more importantly, more torque with the injection set up used. The amount of porting was similar, though different due to the inherent differences between the heads. We also didn't have to take as much off the face of the head to bump compression to where we wanted on the N42. It should also be noted that my motors were built by rally guys, so were chasing a big lazy torque delivery with great drive-ability and not a top end screamer. Made it very easy to drive on the track with gobs of torque from around 3000 and useable up to around 6800 and throwing rockers at 7200 Will be interesting to see what your guys come up with in matching the fuel delivery to the work done on the intake side of the head. It is possible to go too big in the ports.