PZG302

Looking good Casey. Maybe I should have used italics for my diff mount comments And I should have distracted you better to get the "moustache brace" in upside down.......... Just to really annoy when people point it out and you can't be arsed pulling everything apart to flip over.........

To do the fill in of the sun roof on my charger, it took 40 hours to do complete with a few robust discussions with the panel beater to get to the standard where I didn't need to put a vynal roof on. As said above by Lurch, Dave and Gav, either do the full roof or fill in and sikaflex

As Richard said, Queensland Ignition leads, I have used numerous sets on numerous cars, from both the original and new owner of the business. Excellent service and product, Greg Martin is the owner now and is based around Toowong, but I believe is mobile for custom or he can make a set up and post out. Contact details here: http://www.hotfrog.com.au/business/qld/toowong/queensland-ignition-leads Not sure if there is a website. This phone number should work, PH. 0416 366 486

The Soararse isn't eligible for group 2, but maybbe eligible for IPRA, but if racing up here just race it at QR in the outlaw class or in the sedan/tourer class, no log books and easier to go racing with licencing and so on.

Hmmm, car ownership...... I was in a position where I was backed into a corner and had to sell a very nice old ZG Fairlane I had, just with a baby 302, but the best cruiser for the trip to Sydney from Brisbane. I had owned it for 15 years and was my favourite car I had owbed up til then. Sold it, kept the wolf from the door for 5 weeks, was it worth it??? No. I was lucky the Zed was down south and not running, so not worth selling and my charger was just a roller and they were still yet to go stupid in price. I am now in a similar situation, but am looking at off loading my hairdresser car. I had fun with it but won't regret selling it, as I can get another better car pretty easily. The Zed only went away because it was broken at Lakeside and the chugger will never be sold. The S14??? I hope it will never be sold, but it could be replaced, at least they are cheap to reshell. I also have my turbo sports car with bloody big boot as a daily, but won't be selling it as it is one of the last of it's kind, and I will be playing with it in the future. If I had my time again, I wouldn't have sold the ZG. It is pretty easy to find a spot to keep a car for a while rather than sell it and then a replacement.

Nah, the best front diff mount solution is still the easiest old school trick, and cheapest. A bit of chain and a bit of rubber hose over the chain..... And the alternative to the Por15 is KBR. Works a treat. I have painted the whole underside and engine bay of the S14 with it.

Richard, jump on the cams website and read the rules. Took me less than a minute, an auto gearbox with sequential shift is fine, paddles not allowed though. Yes your car will comply as a 2wd floorpan car.

For 2F the supra would be too fat, 2B would be the go, a lot more freedoms and scope to build cheaper. But know of only one Supra that has run for a while and it struggled for reliability at the power they were putting out with the rules.. Z33's are starting to be built for 2B, there are two up here that play in the one hour races and some sprint rounds, but still costly to develop. They are running as 2B cars, A few writeoffs from flood damage come up regularly, but are still a bit porky. The tighter the rules the higher the cost to play at the front. A 20k prodsports car, you would be basically looking at 200hp MX5's, or what I'm doing in 2B with the S14. S13's aren't eligible for prodsports. S15's are, but still a bit pricey. S14 in 2F, could work, but limited by the rules for the turbo, and will still be a pit porky, but should get down to around high 1100kg from the standard 1250kg once allowed interior is removed. Biggest issue would be the tyres, limited in width and diameter and maximum power from the T28 on standard manifolds. Skyrine in IPRA will suffer from turbo restrictor, and I think too old for production cars, plus not a lot of production car racing up here. But built for outlaws at QR, go nuts. Paul's 33 boat has cost him next to nothing and was less than $5k to buy pretty much ready to play, he added some bits to it as he could, and didn't like how it was done. If it was me playing I would still have change out of $10k for a bloody quick car. The best bang for buck, but at about double the $20k budget would be a little Ginetta for 2B, Very reliable and cheap to run, very fast and pretty car. Basically a near proper race car that can have number plates bolted to it in England. If I get the urge for another race car after the 200, I will more than likely save the pennies and go one of them over anything else. The buy in is higher, but the running costs are just tyres and fuel for the year and the engine will go for a few seasons without touching it they are that understressed.

Nope, you have to make the choice, 2A or 3D and never the twain shall meet. 3D would give you more cars to race against. You would only needs CAMS log book and licence to play at Morgan Park in the state rounds. Cheaper and easier would be to run at QR/Lakeside. No log book needed, and only one licence, plus you could run in a couple of categories, outlaws and sedans, and save Morgan Park for the sprint series so you only need the 2S licence, which will also let you play at hillclimbs like the Cootha Classic and Noosa, plus the street sprint events at Leyburn, Gatton, Pittsworth and Oakey, plus the short track stuff down at Stanthorpe, which is door to door.

You will enjoy it if you haven't been before, just treat it with respect. I have ended up in the nuts driving a ZG Fairlane around there, not the most sports orientated vehicle around I know, but it was fun.

So sitting in the office in Mataram, Lombok waiting for the driver to take us back to the hotel, though I would give a quick update since this had slipped to page 3 in the list of builds. Basically nothing much has happened in the last few months. I have working in Indonesia, seeing plenty of the country and having a fun time.Jagged a second project in Lombok that sees me head home on Wednesday for a weeks work in Sydney and return early October for a three week stint, Uni exams after that then it looks like I have a few weeks work to take me through to Christmas. But enough of boring stuff, here is the updates on the car: Sitting in the hotel room in Jakarta I see this pop up on the feed of the book of faces: So I sent a message, then some dollars and now I have a set of slicks in 27/65R18 size waiting for me to be wrapped in black plastic and stored in my work area under the house, nice and dark. And then on the train from Jakarta to Yogyakarta, this came up in my feed at a price too good to knock back: So again, a message about about why am I shown these things, a couple of messages back and forth and I have 8 nice green wheels in 18X9 to put the fancy black bald tyres on for the price of 5 enkei wheels the same size. So, on my one day off in Brisbane before I head to Sydney I will be picking a ute load of tyres and wheels. The next update should be one about spending lots of money as before this current trip I spent some money on some lumpy sticks and some removal of aluminium some a big rectangular lump and some rocker stoppers and other stuff sitting in my study...... The block is being machines at the moment with all the fancy stuff and i have some rods and pistons apparently that will be put together shortly. Will have some pictures when that is ready. And I will hopefully be ordering the coil overs at the end of October when I get back. So moving slowly forward, but moving. Christmas break will hopefully be spent wiring stuff like lights, wipers, windows and looking at putting together my switch panels. Engine builder will get the fun wiring to do as then if it goes bang, not my fault. I also have a nice kit of DTM connectors for the wiring to make it as reliable as possible in keeping the smoke where it belongs. So as work and life gets in the way of the race car it gets frustrating but there is progress. Who knows how long it will take, but a couple of good contracts and I may have it done in 12 months.

To set a club up is a lot of work, you need a constitution, office bearers and incorporation, plus insurances and that's just off the top of my head, plus accounts and auditing and so on. For the dollars it costs, join the Sydney Zed club or the NSWRRC or the ARDC or Nissan Datsun Owners club or whatever other club is local and does stuff you are interested in, pays your monies, do what you need and enjoy cheap rego and fun times.

If they bough this in in Qld i would be very happy, 60 days a year would be more than enough for my Chugger, hell at the moment, if it was all cars, even more than enough for the ute at the moment with all the offshore work I am getting.

Well if that's the case Richard all that goes out the window, as whilst sprint regs are loosely tied with CAMS catergories you work to the organisers rules. Not sure how Morgan Park does it, but QR rules are generally pretty simple number of cylinders, 2WD or AWD and do you have a haidryer? For racing, then you look at what category you want to run, the rules, how much you are prepared to spend and then either do the stupid thing like me and build your own from bare shell, or buy something that someone else has done all the hard work with. in term of sports cars, a well built MX5 to 2F regs will run from $10 up to $20k+ depending on model. In terms of engines, in Qld Gary Stewert is the MX5 engine guru and a gun 2F spec 1800 for a NB will set you back $10k or so for over 200hp. You could also look at IPRA, big range of cars, but if you want to chase trophies, then big dollars, think Ray Hislop's Falcon, basically a V8 supercar on Yoki radials. But plenty of guys having fun on the cheap in the under 2 litres. A SR20DE powered S14 or S15 would go real well in IPRA under 2 litres, plenty of scope for some tinkering to get weight out. Turbos are a bugger becasue IPRA runs a 36mm restrictor, but I believe everything is free if you want to play that game. As for 2A, basically prototype sports cars and Group C type things, not very many events for them as there aren't many cars running up here, mainly hill climbs and will be combined with the clubmans/race cars and maybe prod sports at CAMS state rounds. Basically, if one did show up Richard would be taking a knife to a gun fight where the other bloke has an arsenal. Light weight lots of power. The radicals and what not run as 2A or 2C cars depending on final spec. There is also the Hyundais to CAMS or QR specs, or get in fast and build a Pulstart as they will be coming to Qld soon. Disadvantage with these two categories is very controlled and there will be some panel damage in the Hyundais, less so in the Pulstarts looking at who is entering down south, plus the pullstarts can run in IPRA with a change of tyre.

Dave, the MX is perfect for 2F and plenty do be done within the rules to make is quicker if you don't want it on the road anymore. Also, chat to Cal off PF his jigger is pretty quick and still registered, but not sure how road legal, he should point you in the right direction. Also Lou Iezzi in Sydney would be one the gurus for a 2F car, so have a chat to him, he is on the MX5 forum.

Yes Richard, same engine and also rules about heads as well. Don't have the wording because still in the far east working hard. Basically, if you were to run your 280 as a 2B car it would have to have the L series block and L series head. No turbo allowed, and then it would have to be standard turbo and manifolds as the old L28E from the 280 turbo. So if you want CAMS log book 3D sports sedan it is. One reason I changed from the Zed to the S14 when I was forced to update the car. The L series was just too expensive to get the required levels of power to be competitive. Give me a few days, I will be back in Oz Thursday morning, if you want to know about 2B rules. I have a terry towelling hat I wear when reading them and have been working within them for many years. Oh, and most of your aero would need to be looked at to ensure compliance as well if you went 2B. Other option is to run as 2A sports car, basically open slather, but you will be racing by yourself as you would be up against pukka scary sports cars, if they decide to run. Got bored and had a look on line, here is the relevant stuff for you in the 2B rules: Engine: RECIPROCATING ENGINES: (i) The cylinder head/s must be those that were standard for that particular model. The cylinder head/s may be modified only by the removal of metal. (ii) The cylinder block may be replaced by another of the same family of block, which is deemed to be one that: • is from the same manufacturer • has the same cylinder bore spacing and general configuration. • retains the same cylinder head bolt positions. (iii) The cylinder block may be modified only by the removal of metal, whilst retaining the original configuration. So you are stuck with the L series head, which dictates the L series block. Turbo: SUPERCHARGING: (i) Supercharging is not permitted unless fitted as standard to the particular model. (ii) If supercharging is recognised as standard production for the model, the production inlet manifold and supercharging device must be retained as per the manufacturer’s design specifications. The boost pressure may be altered. The drive pulleys of a mechanical supercharger may be modified to alter drive speed. And to ruin your fun on the hot side for a turbo: EXHAUST: For turbosupercharged vehicles the exhaust manifold and turbosupercharger must remain as standard. The complete exhaust system is free downstream of the exit from the turbo housing. For other engine configurations, the exhaust is free from the cylinder head exhaust port. The original exhaust mounting brackets may be removed and additional brackets may be fitted, provided that their sole function is the location of the exhaust. Have to run standard turbo and manifolds on an L28ET if you want to go down that path, but then you get another kicker........ Eligible vehicles: ELIGIBILITY: Cars must be derived from the Sports Car Recognition list approved by CAMS. To be considered for addition to the Sports Car Recognition list, at least 10 vehicles must have been sold and registered for road use in Australia with identical specification. Vehicles shall be classified as Class I, Class II or Class III depending on production numbers and production philosophy. A maximum capacity of 6000cc shall apply to all vehicles, save where a Class I vehicle has a standard capacity above that limit whereupon it may retain is original capacity plus 2%. Eligibility for vehicles with engine capacity greater than six litres is specific to a manufacturer’s year/model combination, and the vehicle presented for competition must maintain the manufacturer’s engine, driveline and chassis/monocoque design specification. (i) Class I: Vehicles in Class I shall be representative of mass-produced vehicles, featuring fully enclosed bodywork, of which a minimum of 500 were produced world wide in at least one 12 calendar month period. Unless otherwise specified, such vehicles shall compete in their basic form for the model represented. (ii) Class II: Vehicles in Class II are limited production vehicles, which do not comply with the provisions of 1.2 (i) above, of which at least 10 examples have been constructed in a continuous 24-month period. These vehicles shall be subject to a CAMS Specification Document which details the base specification against which freedoms permitted within the Group 2B regulations may be applied. (iii) Class III: Vehicles in Class III are imported vehicles, of which a minimum of 100 vehicles have been produced in their country of origin and are able to be road registered in their country of origin. The vehicles bodywork must be fully enclosed and these vehicles shall be subject to a CAMS Specification Document which details the base specification against which freedoms permitted within the Group 2B regulations may be applied. The Sports Car Racing Association of Australia (SCRAA) will make representations to the CAMS Recognition Committee on behalf of its members. The CAMS Recognition Committee shall be solely responsible for making recommendations to CAMS with regards to all matters relating to the recognition by CAMS of any vehicle as a Sports Car. Notwithstanding the provisions of Articles 1.2(i),1.2(ii), and 1.3(iii) CAMS reserves the right to include or restrict other makes and models, or parts from such, at its sole discretion. You have to work out whether the shorty 280 is a class I or III 2B car, ie if non-turbo with L28 then class I, if Turbo 280, did they make a minimum of 500 in one year? If so class I, otherwise if over 100 then class III and then you go the nightmare of getting the specification documentation for the car. I was looking at doing a Nizpro 200SX, as it is on the list of eligible cars, and would have been a class II car, but with 3 months of research and annoying CAMS couldn't find any base specification to use and it was run in the GTP series back in the late '90's, so I am building to the class I spec. The nizpro spec gave me a much better turbo and other engine freedoms to use. The real killer would have been having to source said turbo and manifolds for the build. Then aero rules would probably hurt you as well,as they are reasonably restrictive for rear wings and front splitters compared to sports sedans. I am looking at using a bird bath type spoiler, or nascar type spoiler rather than a wing on the S14 as the maximum height I can go for a wing is 250mm above the boot, the perfect height for all the dirty air falling off the roof and rear window. The spoiler will create a low pressure area behind it to "suck" the car onto the road. So in summary, 3D sports sedans is the place for you if you want to run CAMS door to door and log book the car, or 2A, rules here: http://docs.cams.com.au/Manual/Race/RA15-Group-2A-2015-1.pdf

Dave, FOSC if it is still promoting meetings basically runs meetings like this, nice and casual and there for fun.

I have an L28 motor sitting doing nothing, was a spare to use as a base for my old racer, would need a rebuild. No ancilleries or manifolds, but the rest is there. In Brisbane, but would have to wait until i get back to Aus on the 19th sept.

A tyre in the back of the ute and the engine in the tyre and tied off so it can't rock sideways has worked for me for many engines. I usually put some tape over the ports to stop crap getting into the motor if it hasn't got manifolds on it but otherwise not much else. Throwing it in a trailer will be easier than getting it into the back of a Prado.

Mine was 960kg ready to go on the track with full cage and met the rules of 2B Marque Sports cars. The only other car i have seen lighter had some very scary work done to get the weight down, certainly not a car I would to have a crash in. My standard Na6 gets around lakeside in 66's, so a well set up suspension is worth more than big power. i get passed by most down the straight, but get back passed them around the back where balance is more important than power.

Bond should do a cage for a 240, they have done them in the past. I know of a few cars with bond cages, though they were done a few (20) years ago.

For a road registered 240 that has the interior trim and keeping it under 1000kg, your dreaming. My race 240 was 960kg and it went to a serious session at Jenny Craig, I could have gotten another 10kg or so going to 'glass hatch and redo the wiring, but not much more. The car was a stripped racer built to 2B rules so had an injected L28. For 250hp, whether at the flywheel or rear wheels, for most engine combinations it will be expensive, for L series, budget at least $10k for a full rebuild depending on your base, my last freshen up was about $7k for the motor and another $3k for other bits and bobs that needed doing, that gave me 200hp at the wheels on the dyno used to tune the car, was good for 62 seconds around Lakeside on old slicks well passed their used by date on a 40 degree day. For a road car, I would be looking at a mild L28, either on injection with an aftermarket computer, or on triples, but rather than out and out power, chase torque, my race motor was built by rally cars and had a very fat and broad torque curve so the engine worked from about 3500 to 6800rpm and pulled better than a 14 school boy. Unless you have deep pockets, I wouldn't worry about a stroker or conversion. And spend a decent of money on quality suspension and brakes parts to make the car handle and stop, this will make it a better car to drive. I have yet to have this proven wrong to me: " If you want to go seconds faster around a track, spend your money on suspension and brakes. If you want to go tenths faster, spend it on the motor"

Nice, a Porsche ute

Will have a look when I get back home. Won't hurt the value of the motor as if it is apart can then see the condition of it to see what it would be useful for.

We never officially got the 140 or 160J here. An old friend who was a very good rally driver in the 70's and on occasion beat the factory Datsun team was given a 140JSSS from Datsun/Nissan somehow. Was the only one I ever saw and he could punt it around like there was no tomorrow. It did look funny, sort of like the bastard red headed ugly love child as the result of a drugged and alcohol fueled tryst between a 120Y and a 180B......