PZG302

With auto?

I'd be sending that back. He hasn't finished it.......

It's Bathurst, so be prepared for snow........ I did a speed weekend up there many years ago in the first weekend of December, Saturday was mountain straight hill climb and Sunday was the chase decent, we had snow on the Friday night from Mt Victoria out to Bathurst and whilst a clear weekend was bitterly cold. Take the wooly jumpers just in case, oh and take your wets so you won't have to use them. If you leave them at home, guaranteed you will need them.

Not so much a problem with "enthusiasts" insurers such as famous or Shannons, but very careful about this and check the PDS for your policy, especially for your daily that you might have through one of the cheaper companies like Budget or Colesworth. Some policies will have the payment being either market or agreed value, whichever is the lesser, so you maybe paying extra to receive less money. Only insurance advice I have, after having great service from some companies and abysmal service from others, is check the PDS very carefully to make sure the policy suits your needs and don't shop on price alone, and also be very aware of the lazy tax. I always get a few comparison quotes each year for all my cars to see how my insurers compare price wise to the market and see if I can get a better deal from them without the hassle of changing everything over. Also look at using an insurance broker. I use a broker for my business insurances and got them to look at car insurance for me to see if they could do a better deal. For my situation and cars, I could get a slightly better deal myself, for someone else it maybe very different.

After putting heater core in, examine hands and wash in brake clean or other similar solvent, have beer, check wallet, pack it all up and onto a truck and pay someone else to go through the pain........

Might also be worth to give this guy a call for transporting your car up...... http://www.jimsdoortodoortransport.com.au/ He shipped a lowered and only just running 200SX from Forster to Brisbane for me door to door for $800. Service was exceptional and I have no hesitation in recommending him. Also Rev used a guy that he recommended on here for cheap too.

That's the kicker, it would have had to have every service done on a time basis, and I don't know too many owners of an old Datsun that would spend the dollars to do that.....

Then a 40 odd year old car with that little milage will be stuffed....... Poor bloke bought a dud. Everything needs to be used to keep in serviceable condition.

Or there was a wad of cash, diamonds drugs or other contraband of choice hidden in it somewhere. That pricing is getting as stupid as the prices for the 240K, maybe I should have kept my 180BSSS 's I had......

All up so far costs are around the cost of 2 complete sets of hanging panels in fibreglass and I own the molds, that includes the panels used to make the molds, which I acquired with the various S14's and parts I have bought and shipping the panels down to Adelaide from Brisbane. Would never consider plastic or fibreglass for the doors from a safety point of view, even with the high door bars the cage has, the metal doors provide a lot more structure and protection from puncture and ingress into the car than other materials would, aside from structural carbon fibre, but I;m not rich enough for that, looking at prices for some doors made for an MX5 that I know of. Looking at the Ultimate Power Steering site they show a Skyline with the conversion done and the video said it was a manual rack, whether that was depowered or not I don't know. But a depowered rack may be OK with what should be a reasonably quick ratio compared to most manual racks. The electric power steer pump may work out cheaper and easier than the full electric conversion, downside is I don't get the adjustability, but also simpler, will come down to what the experts say at the time.

Getting the hanging panels vacuum formed out of the same plastic as your garden chair. There are some advantages to this material, namely: Weight, the standard bonnet is just under 20kg, the plastic one should be around 2-3kg, the boot lid will see a similar reduction in weight. The guards will see a little weight saving. Serviceability, if contact is made, rather than shatter or break like 'glass or carbon, the plastic will deform and pop back into shape on its own or with a little help, but doesn't need panel beating like metal panels. If the hit is big enough, then the panel will split. However repairs can be made by gluing back together with acetone, basically a bottle of nail polish remover on the split. The plastic will be at 80% strength or so after about 10 minutes. Also the plastic is white, so no need to paint them, just get the shell painted to a close match in white. Cost, after the setup costs of getting the molds made it will cost me a couple of hundred dollars in materials to get a set made. It has cost a bit to get to that stage, so to recover costs, I am looking at selling them for the drift and flat brim crowd. If myself and the manufacturer can keep the costs to similar to 'glass there should be a market. The biggest costs is getting the molds set up. Also making modifications to the panels is pretty easy, by cutting or gluing for flares on guards and venting the bonnet if needed. So a little method in the madness of taking advantage of the freedoms in the 2B rules.

The Jelly beans are period wheels, so get them polished up. Being a strong wheel structurally, they should only need a decent clean all over and then a polish of the face. With the jelly beans I ran on my 180BSSS I painted the inside of the "spokes" of the wheel yellow to match the car, they came up pretty good, so colour matching maybe an option. On the Jelly beans I had on my old ZG Fairlane the inside area was painted black, and on my Charger, they were polished as was the face. The original W35 optional wheels for the Valiants at the time had a machined face that gave a satin look to the wheels. I also ran various wheels on my first 260Z including Jelly bean mags, they suit Zeds pretty well, especially as they would be close to a zero offset being old school wheels.

Holy crap it's been a long time between updates, nearly 12 months....... And a little bit has been happening in the last 12 months, but not a lot...... thanks to work. So I have had an eventful time, with starting a 12 month stint in Manila in January, that ended up being a 3 month stint over 4 months as I was put back on the Indonesian project I worked on last year and now am in Indonesia for another project that will be ongoing for the next couple of years, so FIFO forlyf, with passport stamps and business class travel....... On the S14 front...... Suspension: the coilovers arrived in December and were sent away to be rebuilt to better suit the tyres, diff and adjustable arms, this meant revalving the dampers and changing the spring rates to better suit the car and my driving style. At the moment they are in a box on the floor of the workshop who will fit them, along with a seat mount and some other bits and bobs to finish off everything so the car can be called a roller, this will incude also fitting longer wheel studs all round and getting an electric power steer system set up. For the power steering I am not sure if I will go the full electric route like Richard, or just the electric pump, ala astras. I will talk to the guys at Ultimate Power Steerinng about which way is the best to go in terms of dollars and ease of fitment. If I go the full electric, then I need to source a manual rack, or at least depower the existing rack. If I just go the electric pump, then it all stays the same, save the pump can be fitted anywhere in the engine bay. Engine: The head has been sitting on my desk in the study for around 12 months now and the bottom end sitting at the machinists waiting on bits to be sourced. I now have a set of these on the way..... Some scat rods. Pistons will be next, and hopefully the bottom end will be ready to be screwed together in the next couple of months when I should be home, and the head attached so I have a motor on a stand wrapped in plastic waiting for a car to be finished. Body: I am getting the hanging panels made out of plastic, the same as your green or white garden chairs, so the weight saving will be significant for bonnet and bootlid, and the serviceability of the panels will be better for door to door racing where a touch here and there is expected. I will hopefully get the notification to make a quick trip to Adelaide and back before Christmas to pick up two sets of panels. And if the market with the dorifto and flat brim crowd is there it might be a nice little generator of beer money. Once I have all the panels and seat mount welded in then the car will go for a ride to be parked next to a bus in a paint booth and some overspray will be applied inside and out to make it pretty. Good thing the bus will be painted white, as that is the colour I want the car to be..... I also hope to make up my switch panels and do the accessory wiring for the car/ I will do things like lights, wipers, electric windows and the engine builder will do the engine harness and computer. That way I know he will be happy with everything that he needs and if the computer goes bang due to wiring there can be no finger pointing. And I will probably be talked into a PDM rather than the circuit breakers I was looking at using. Brakes: As I have already installed the Z32 4 spot front calipers and rotors for the front and R33 GTR 2 spot calipers and T3 rotors out the back and utilising the standard steel lines that were on the shell, I will be installing a 1" non ABS master cylinder, unboosted, on the firewall and will need to rearrange the brake lines to suit. Also I will be installing braided flexible lines for all four calipers. This should be a proven system with a pretty good balance out of the box. Pads will be Hawk DT70 on the front and maybe the next compound down for the rears or DT70 pads all round, depending on the recommendation from the tech guys at Hawk. If I need to adjust the balance then an in line adjuster will be used as I am using the standard pedal box. So hopefully over December there will be some more updates and some more pictures with actual progress on this thing. Whilst I am enjoying the work in far flung exotic locations, it certainly does get in the way of building toys....

Good to see the book of excuses is also being well prepared and ready to go too.......

Or is a reshelled car the original still, like as has happened to so many race cars where the running gear is transferred over to a new shell and the original logbook is still used for that car....

Nope, they just made it up as they went along and used what bits were next to the line to be thrown on the cars as they went through.

Well done. Now to find one more suited to your needs.

But a good dyno operator should be asking.... "and what horsepower would sir like to see today???" Only real dyno is the stopwatch

Good luck with the sale, not sure how much you will get, but you have a starting price fro negotiations. Someone will buy it. As others have said, a checque book restoration will be expensive, I wouldn't be surprised at something around $80-$100k and not feeasible at that price for the return on investment. But the final price depends on final spec for the build. But I feel the person looking for a car for that type of restoration is not the buyer of this car. The buyer for this car will be someone like Dave, with the skills, or wanting to learn the skills to do this project over time and get the enjoyment from the work. There are plenty of people like that out there, so I doubt very much you will have the car for a long time.

From memory the throttle body from the 4.1 EECIV fitted to the XF falcon was the go if you couldn't get a turbo throttle body. The sizes were within a bee's dick of each other not to worry about the falcon one if you had the turbo throttle body. But nowadays, it's cheaper to get an aftermarket computer rather than dick around with the old bosch computer if chasing more power.

The N47 manifold is the best of them, and by a fair way. The shape of the runners is very different and the taper in the log is very different from the other manifolds, it actually flows not too bad for what it is. Also the twin butterfly throttle body isn't that flash, it actually has less diameter than a single butterfly throttle body, maybe better for lower down and running around town but not so much on a racetrack. And the NAPS manifold is also towards the better end of them. When my old green car was built there wasn't much choice for manifolds or throttle bodies, so we went through the lot looking for the best to use. We found the turbo throttle body on the N47 manifold to provide the best airflow, back in the mid 90's when there was no aftermarket stuff about for injection. And another interesting fact, some of the L28e computers were the same as as used in the V12 XJ's. With a bit of black magic and a soldering iron you could tell the computer your L series was a 12 cylinder and double pulse the injectors to get more fuel out of it. Plus some other little tricks like Jason had to do with dropping resistors for the injectors and so on to squeeze a bit more when aftermarket options weren't available, or rules don't let you use anything else. Back to the original question, $500 might be a bit ambitious for the injection, however if you are prepared to wait, you might someone with a 280 who wants to restore or refurbish to original. I would through the $500 on it and see, you can always take less and its easier than asking for more than the price you put up.

Shannons club have just put up this video on the Zeds. Not a bad watch and more Australian focus, with a good focus on rallying and racing http://www.shannons.com.au/club/video/datsun-240z-260z-280zx-shannons-club-tv-episode-63/

What's the cast marking/number on the inlet manifold?? Some a re way better than others, also is it the single or twin butterfly manifold?

Because they are the first model, therefore most desirable. Also there isn't many left after a lot have been abused by owners, because they were jap junkers, or turned into rally cars and speared into trees, or race cars and punted into fences and walls. Also 240's preferred over 260's due to a few reasons like 240 lighter shell, didn't have the pollution carbs, and lack of knowledge of the differences between 240 and 260's Same as Valiant Chargers, bugger all left, but the ones that command huge money are the R/T six pack cars, followed by the 2 and 4 barrel R/T's and then the normal spec cars with the first model, VH commanding more dollars than an equivalent VJ, VK, CL and finally CM models, or pretty much any other car from the 70's that has a following of more than a dozen people. As the demand increases for these old cars, the values go up. Look at the 240K as an example, a very unloved car in its day and through the years up to about 5 years ago and now as they are basically rarer than rocking horse poo the values have shot up unbelieveably.

The homologation papers more than likely won't help as they are for racing only and not what Datsun specified as the wheels supplied with the car and certainly not for road use. But the 240 and through to 280Z were homologated to race with 8" wide fronts and 10" wide rears IIRC. Standard wheels in the papers were 5.5" off the top of my head. I have a paper copy of the docs but it is 5000km or so in Brisbane and I am in Indonesia for a couple of months.