PZG302

The 280 master cylinder should be straight bolt in, the only difference really being the diameter at 15/16 instaed of 3/8, from a sketchy memory. The master cylinder to be careful of is the 1 inch 300ZX as one one type the pipe connections are on the side of the cylinder, not the bottom and the mounting holes are horizontal, not vertical. I got caught upgrading my 15/16 master cylinder to the 1 inch master cylinder. no big drama, as I was able to drill two new holes in the fire wall and support plate, I don't run a vacuum booster, and get new lines made up to suit the side mounts.

Jack, I've got the same problem with my Charger I'm restoring. My best bet would be to go to a specialist car restorer, not a panel shop, as most panel shops are only doing remove/replace for smash work. True panel beating is becoming a dying art. And remember, with panel work you do really get what you pay for!!! I found a mob up here in Brisbane to fix it properly and I'm looking at $1500 and about a week's work to get it done. They will be making up a new panel from scratch so it will be rolled both ways for the compund curve of the roof and then welded in with a rebate that will just need a light skim of bog to smooth out. I would probably add about another $1000 for a respray of the roof as well to cover everything. The paint work I'm not worried about as they will also be taking the body back to bare metal by blasting and stripping so they can quote for the rest of the body. Matt

I will be looking at replacing my 18" OZ Wheels with Simmons in the next few months so will be able to get prices for 3 piece wheels with custom offset to suit my car. I will be looking at getting the same style as I have, just the bigger centre as the spun rims are too soft and I can't get them re-rolled again....

Try autotechnica or if you're near Sydney 55 by Sportique. Most aftermarket wheels have the appropriate boss to suit and there are plenty of good looking wheels out there. Just one word of advice, don't get a suede wheel for everyday use, the suede gets pretty crappy pretty quick from the oil in your hands. I have had a suede wheel in a road car and never again, however the suede wheel in the Z is great as it is only used on the trrack, so for 90% of the time it's being driven I'm wearing racing gloves.

Performance wheels have their superlite wheels in 16x7 now as well as a good range of other sizes now for Z's. I was looking at getting some 16X7's but found some 2nd hand 15X7 globes Bathursts at a good price and they suited my needs better for racing. Here's the link...http://www.performancewheels.com.au/classic.htm Matt

And a lot of tyre wear. Those pressures would only be for the track and then very dependant on the tyre. I would recommend those pressures only for a road tyre. Using Toyo Proxes on my race 240 I only inflate to around 26 PSI and the 18 inch slicks are set to 22-23PSI. For a road car I wouldn't recommend going over about 36PSI, especially for a light car like a Z. Castor will also have a bearing on steering weight, I run a fair bit of castor and my 240 is an absolute pig to try to steer at low speed, though the locked diff doesn't help on tight radius turns either :lol:

Don't know if they're still available but Gabriel gas shocks were fairly cheap for a reasonable gas road shock. Depending on where you are try one of the Z specialists, like the Z Shop in Melbourne, Z16 or All Z Parts in Sydney, and I don't know of anyone in Brisbane since Alan Stein has wound down the Z car Workshop and is mainly concentrating on tyres.

Some bits are no longer avilable, or at least very hard to hard to get for Ford models as recent as the AU

Rbz, The hatch vents were fitted to the early 240's and the pillar vent fitted to the late models. I think the changeover was done because of the old exhaust fumes getting into the cabin trick.

If you can, check whatt the harness manufacturuer says. From memory the best angles for a sedan based car, ie not single seater, is at around 10-30deg from horizontal down. Be very careful how you mount them and if in any doubt talk to an engineer, as this sort of thing is potentially deadly if you get it wrong. The harness in my Zed is attached by looping the shoulder straps over the rear strut brace, which forms part of the roll cage. The last harness used the standard mounts bolted to the rear strut brace using collars through the tubing and high tensile bolts. Where the lap part of the harness utilises the standard mounts, ie captured nuts, high tensile bolts were used, as well as the mount for the crutch strap. Also check the age of the harness, for Circuit racing harnesses are now lifed at only 5 years, ie 5 years after the date of manufacture you throw them away, whether they have been used or not. I'm not sure whether this requirement is in effect for sprint events and so on.

Sulio, The wheels are a three piece rim 18X8's with a 15" centre similar to the BBS mesh style and the outers spun to suit. I think a company called OZ Wheels made them up. If they are still around they are a Sydney based company. They were built specially for the car to suit the offset needed to clear the struts also fit ubder the gaurds and came with it when I bought it about ten years ago. The Hawthorn Green is a Jag colour, and I reckon really suits the Zeds. British racing green tends to be to black IMO. Matt

What about Dark green. My 240Z is Hawthorn Green, which I think suits nicely.