PZG302

Yeah nah, our super funds, particulalry the industry run funds have built a lot of the infrastructure and major construction projects in Australia and also internationally. Whilst ever there are BOO and PPP infrastructure projects going on, and there always will, especially with the development of asia, and in particular emerging economies like Indonesia and Malaysia which are very respurces rich, and to a lesser extent Vietnam which is just starting to grow thanks to tourism and finally having some stability in the country after basically a few hundred years of war. Super will be around for a while, and it will be good a investment, unfortunately people see it as set and forget, or a pain in the arse that they have to give up 9% of their pay. I am lucky in that I have a very switched on finance guy and he looks after me pretty well. With the last couple of rumbles in teh stock market, he pulled my money out of their into other areas and then back in when it was again stable. I may miss the absolute peaks of growth, but I also miss the plummets in value. The introduction of super by the Hawke Keatiung Government was one of the best things to happen to teh workers of the country, basically providing them with a good pension and there were provisions to keep those not at the start of their working careers with a workable and liveable aged pension. If the original plans as set out by Hawke Keating, the unions and business were carried out, we would all be putting in 15% of our earnings to super. Unfortunately following governments have meddled and changed the original intent for super to meet their own short term goals to be re-elected in the shitty 3 year cycle we now have. And I have to say that this started with Howard. Great leadership and looking forward for the long term basically died in this country with the first Howard Government gaining power. There was a glimps of what could be again with the original NBN as it was supposed to be, but short sightedness killed that off quicker than an Amy Whitehouse binge drug session.

Are these from Motorsports heated windscreens Tom?? If so they are a good bit of kit. I have one of Derek's heated screens for the S14 race car. I bought it a couple of years ago when he a had a sale on to clear some stock to get some more made.

Whats wrong with a sequential dog box then, all the advantages of clutchless shifting, just have to be able to drive it.... They are the gearbox of choice for the IPRA boys, but they are limited somewhat in the rules. Some of teh Prod sports guys are using sequential with either stick shift or pneumatic or electronic paddle shift. For me, the cost of multiple 5 speed S14 boxes when driven with some mechanical sympathy means I have a few to go through before I need to worry about a dog box. Oh and for the vast majority of us, the time taken to shift lost on a lap is nowhere near the time lost due to lack of talent.

They would be the negatives of a polar in a snow storm, unless you were talking about a polar bear in the middle of a snow storm at midnight during the northern hemisphere winter solstice at the actual, or very close to the arctic pole.

For those playing at home, Good old air dry enamel is also a cheap easy solution for quick and good looking paint job. If you hadn't already bought the paint I would have suggested this.

yeah, nah on the wrap. To get a good job costs money. I have a good mate who does a lot of motorsport sign work in NSW and I was quoted $2k to wrap the S14 in plain white vynal, and it would last about 5 years. A wrap is something that you definitely get what you pay for, and a cheap crappy job with crap vynal will look shit pretty quickly.

Acrylic should come off the gun shiny enough. Only hassle you may have is orange peel and runs which will have to be sanded out. For a race car a 10 foot paint job is enough.

I will be back in Brisbane late June, so can dig them out then. Should able to find some earlier ones from the 90's when it was down south. And here is a pic I found from early 2011 at Lakeside coming over the crest at Eastern Loop.... And when it was first built as a street sedan and coming through the loop at Amaroo....

I know I shouldn't, but I'll bite.... I assume this is the website you cherry picked the results from Richard??? https://www.racingsportscars.com/championship/European%20GT%20Championship.html So for the 1972 FIA, that's the Federation Internationale de l'Automobile, the mob that runs International motorsport, European Trophy for Grand Touring Cars I went through the published results of the nine round Championship and found the following: The Datsun 240Z and the Porsche 911S and 911T all ran in the GT+2.0 class, the Porsche 914/6 ran in the GT2.0 class. I only mentions the 914/6 because Richard bought it up as a class contender to the 240 in previous posts, and they are a really cool car that I would love to own, having watched a genuine 914/6 running around at State meetings in NSW when I was racing down there in my 180B and Zeds. Any ways, onto the results: Round 1, Nurburgring 300km race only 1 240 entered, it finished down the order. Round 2, Paris, no 240Z entered Round 3, Zandvoort, only the one 240 entered and finished down the field. Round 4, Nivelles, no 240Z's entered Round 5, Nurburgring, again zero 240Z's entered. Round 6, Hockenheim, two were entered, but didn't show up. Round 7, Monza, yet again no 240Z's entered. Round 8, Tour de France, one entered but DNF'd. Round 9, Estoril, two were entered, one finished the race but was not classified, the other DNF'd. What can we take from this when the majority of the GT+2.0 class cars were Porsche 911s or 911T models, well that Porsche built the better mousetrap, or GT car in this case. Most of the entrants were privateers, so they are getting their funds from, mostly themselves, as in those days it was still very much gentleman's racing. The gentleman racer would not give a rat's arse where the best car came from, he would buy the best car to do the job. As we are talking 1972, the 240Z was very much available in the European markets, so that can't be the reason that only a handful were run. The main reason was that for the GT categroy in the GT+2.0 class, the best car available to the gentleman, or any, racer was the Porsche 911S or 911T. The 240Z wasn't competitive against that car. There was no nobbling of the car or anything like that. Nissan/Datsun could have homologated whatever they wanted for racing in FIA events using the same process as any other manufacturer, and they did. Its just that Porsche built a better mouse trap. When you look at the FIA homologation papers you can see that Datsun did a lot of work and gave the competitor who chose to run a 240Z, or derivative of, a very big box of tools to choose from. Porsche just did it better. Hell, Datsun even got FIA homologation for the lowly 180B, which included fuel injection in 1977.

That's my old car at Lakeside in late 2010 or up to mid 2011. I also made it int the now defunct Australian Classic Car magazine on a couple of occasions, one as a general call to get more competitors for marque sports, in the late 90's and also in the report on the second Cootha Classic in 2010. I have plenty more photos of this car, but alas, they are in Brisbane and I am in Jakarta. All in all a pretty successful car in its day. It was first built to run in the NSW Street Sedan category in the early '90's by John Hepher running the standard L24 with twin Hitachi carbies and not much else other than better brake pads as per the rules. It was then developed to run in Marque Sports, Division 2, basically the forunner to today's 2F Prodsports. This meant a change to an L28E and some wider tyres. The next year it was further developed and run in 2B Marque Sports. Changes included gutting the car of all unnecessary interior trim and a move to slicks, using 18x8 wheels and Yokohama slicks from the BMW team before being sent back to Japan. A bit more weight reduction was also undertaken with the steel bonnet replaced by fibreglass after an altercation at Wakefield Park, and the hatch window and side windows were replaced with acrylic. Brakes were also upgraded with a set of Wilwood Dynalites from the rear of a Nascar and a set of Vovlo 2 spot calipers fitted to the rear. I bought the car of John in late 96, replacing my ex Steve Cox/Jason Lea rally 260Z that I raced in Division 2 Marque Sports in 95 and 96. Some more development was done on the motor under my ownership, with teh guys at Z16 plugging away on getting more out of the L28. This included a new bottom end with the bore out to 90mm and a N42 head, that was better suited than the P90 for what we wanted, well worked to produce a nice torquey motor that was reliable. The computer was the standard L28 computer, but we found a trick with it where the injectors could be double pulsed, similar to the way the basically same computer in the V12 Jags were controlled. The next step was to upgrade the computer to a new flash Haltech F9. The car only ever went onto a dyno once during the 90's and that was to tune the car for the computer and the exhaust we trying some other things on. It made 150rwhp at the time, though the operator did ask what power we would like, so I have a healthy disrespect for just quoting power figures, the stop watch is the best indicator of power. 1997 saw me take out the NSW Marque Sports Driver's Championship with a consistent year of finishing just about every race in the top 5, and picking up some nice trophies for a few thirds and seconds. In 1998 I almost repeated the result, but missed a round or two as I couldn't afford the commute from Brisbane to Sydney, I relocated to Brisbane at the end of 97 for work, for all the rounds, plus I was taken out in the last round by a fellow Zed driver. That cost me the championship and figuring in the results for the year. The car then spent around 10 years doing nothing other than the odd hillclimb or trackday as life got in the way. In 2009 a concerted effort was made to give the car a birthday and get it running again. At this stage it was with me in Brisbane, so back to Sydney it went for a respray and quick mechanical refresh for the brakes and suspension. On its return to Brisbane it went on the Dyno for a tune and was found to be not so healthy. I did the 2009 Noosa Hill climb with the motor not happy, but still making good torque, enough to have the 15" wets leaving two big licorice stripes through first and second gears off the line and entertaining the crowd wheel spinning out the tighter corners, especially the turn 10 hairpin. 2010 saw the motor rebuilt and when tuned made a healthy 200 or so rwhp on the dyno on the 15" wets. I ran in some events, including the 2010 Cootha Classic and the 2010 Prodsports Enduro round at Morgan Park, with Jason as my co-driver. 2011 saw me return to the Queensland Prodsports championship where the car was still reasonably competitive in 2B, and got a few comments because it was different. However 40 years of development in the general motor industry made the car pretty slow to others, but, it was still fun to drive and I was doing alright, consistently finishing in the top 4 or 5 of the class, depending on who turned up in 2B. At the 50th Anniversary Sports Car meeting at Lakeside, the car was helped into the wall coming onto the front straight where it met its demise. An estimated 140km/h into the tyre barries is not good for a 40 year old car, so it was scrapped.

Fresh air vents from the front of the car straight to the screen demister outlets will keep the fog down in wet running, may need the window down to help too. The green car had the screen vents connected to ducting to the fresh air vents, worked well at speed. The wiper being a rear wiper, may also lift at a decent speed. Even if its not raining it will be annoying if it is anywhere within your field of vision.

So not planning to run in the wet then Richard, or you have plenty of rainex to go on the screen????? A tad too small for me, I like to see where I am going in the wet, even if it is round and round and round at a great rate of knots.....

Or if you score the right manifold it does flow better, can't remember the cast mark off the top of my head, but the log I had on my green car was the best flowing manifold I saw with the original TB only a couple of mm smaller than an XF one. Also stay clear of teh NAPS manifolds with teh twin butterfly TB, they don't as well as a standard L28E manifold and TB for performance/track use.

You guys whinging about getting parts, just be thankful you weren't trying to get parts for a Valiant. It's only been the last ten years or so that there has been more than one supplier of repro parts and the businesses that were doing second hand parts are much smaller now if still operating. Even now there are three main businesses selling repro parts and a couple of shops that still have some second parts left as they all dry up. It took me two years to find a 265 block that wasn't already at maximum overbore for my charger that I didn't have to sell both my kidneys and a lung for. 15 years ago 265 blocks could be bought for a slab of beer, hell I used to buy VE valiants for $50 in the late 90's. Simple things like torsion bars can take up to 18 months to get from suppliers here as there is very little demand, so they don't keep stock and rely on the US manufacturers to make them when the demand for the small body cars in the US is great enough. I have known Warren for many years also through my association with Z16 and I also have had dealings both in a business and social sense with pretty much every one who had a specialty Datsun workshop on the east coast. Whilst most of the guys are still around, Warren is still the only one who really deals in parts and the volume of business for the last 20 years or so for Warren has meant it has become part time for him. Shit, the poor bloke still needs to make a quid and live, so if it takes a while to get a bit, or if he doesn't answer the phone because he is doing something more important to him than selling someone a $50 widget, suck it up princess. The others if they still going, like Stew Wilkins, are more into the mechanical side or supplying performance parts. Warren has had the same service for over 30 years. His health hasn't been the best at times and as he has helped me out with my zeds and other Datsuns over the years I cut him a fair bit of slack., Plus tight arse Datsun owners used to frustrate everyone in the industry, and it looks like a lot of them haven't changed. And I thought Valiant owners were bad.

Pistons are pretty cheap to get made to what you require. When the last freshen up was done on my race motor, I needed new pistons as 4 out of the six had smashed ringlands. The pistons were Mitsubishi and NLA. Was surprised at the cost of getting new ones made the same from JP Pistons in Adelaide, much cheaper than I though they would be.

I ran as much castor as I possibly could, 'cause castor is faster. I trimmed the guards to suit, because race car.

18x8 -2mm using 240/640/18 slicks, the front guards had the lips cut and flared with pipe. rear guards were rolled and suzuki 4wd fibreglass flares stuck on. Inner guards were "tubbed" by hitting with a big hammer to get some more room. Going to a 15x8 wheel with a 225/55/15 tyre you will be an inch or so less in height than the 18 inch slicks I ran so you should have a bit more clearance to the guards if your ride height isn't stupid low like my race car was. But it will also depend on the car, 40 years will see things not square and bent out of shape, plus manufacturing tolerances 40 years ago were pretty ordinary.

After a couple of your bookface posts.... something something glass houses something stones........ Oh and pink is your colour, maybe not hot pink though, that needs to be toned down.

Or, use a rubber mallet, go gently and take your time. Just go slow and start at one end and tap lightly on the lip to move it up and then tap pretty close to the last one and a light tap then move, light tap and so on. It should take about 2 stubbies per wheel arch if going from the original 90 degree edge to fully folded. Depending on how fast you drink. That's what it usually takes me to do this anyways. Successfully done on a few old and newer datsuns and my hairdresser car. Heat gun only really needed once you start to get the lip near to the 180 degree bend and if you have been rushing and moving the lip a fair bit as you knock it up. Oh and if you do crack the paint, quickest and easiest way to seal and hide it, a quick brush over with clear nail polish.

One question Richard, why run a brake booster??? With all the mods being done, wouldn't it have been just as easy to run an adjustable balance bar and remote cylinder kit? You get much better pedal feel without a booster than with, well I do anyway, and I found it no problems in terms of effort to run a 1" unboosted master cylinder in teh green Zed, and will be running an unboosted 1.25" master in the S14. A proper adjustable twin cylinder system will be less effort with adjustable pedal ratios plus you have infinitely adjustable bias. PLus the cost of a decent pedal box isn't horribly expensive these days. With the recent rule changes in ProdSports now making a full competition pedal box legal I may go to a full floor mounted set up with three remote master cylinders.

Ahh yes, but those front runners making big power on the twin Hitachis are big big dollar builds. My old race motor, 2.9 litre L28 with standard crank the longer rods for a stroker build and custom pistons to replicate the Mitsubishi pitons that was in it originally, with N42 head that had some work done a 72 degree cam, running a L28 log manifold and Haltech F9 computer made just under 200HP at the wheels on the dyno used to set it up after the last refresh. It made peak power at around 6800rpm, which all the experts said it should go harder, but made torque from 3500rpm all the way to 6500rpm in a very flat curve. The build cost for that motor to start from scratch would be less than $10K The big boys in Sc would be spending a lot more than that to play up the front. I know Jason's L28 in hos old 280Z for Sc was a bit more power, but to get that there was a hell of a lot more development undertaken compared to my dunger motor in comparison. In short, yes, triples will be an improvement, but they must be set up and tuned to suit the motor. If the Sc guys were allowed triples, they would be getting a fair bit more power out of their motors, and consequently spent more money redeveloping heads and so on, or buying teh motors from someone who already has done the development.

Or like my old 40mm twin webers that came off a 3k 1200 corolla motor, that was set up perfect for that, but we had to go down many sizes in jets to put them onto a warm 2.something litre L18 and have it work properly. It all comes down to set up of the carbies and the motor itself. The Valiant 265's ran 45mm webers, but you would often see 48's put onto much smaller capacity motors and running as well. If all being equal in terms of condition and no other changes made, as said above, you would probably get a small increase in power and torque, but more importantly much better fuel delivery to each combustion chamber and therefore better driveability.

It showed it was FIA compliant so should be OK, also looked like the other links. Just make sure the ECU will turn off the fuel pumps within the 6 seconds. The way the green car was done meant that it was two turns of the key to prime the fuel system before you turned it to start the car. Was something I always wanted to change but never got around to doing was taking the key start out, button would be easier in the situation of stuffing the start up and stalling on the grid with the other cars coming through. For sprints obviously you won't have that problem.

I would have the plastic key mounted somewhere out of the way and weather, UV is not kind to them over time and use two pull cables to activate, one at the base of the A pillar on the driver's side, and the second where you can easiliy reach it in a worst case scenario, i.e. car on roof, if ni HVAC controls the panel that covers those holes is a pretty good location. Or you could go for overkill and go to one of the fancy pants versions like this..... https://www.demon-tweeks.co.uk/performance/battery-isolators-master-switches/cartek-xr-solid-state-battery-isolator

But is the partly filled with foam tank filled at 30, 50 or 75% of the capacity? This wasn't specified in the original post. With my old car the foam was in blocks that we just shoved in through the filler hole until we couldn't get more in, not neatly packed to make sure there were no voids.