PZG302

But a S30 will only be competitive in a class or category if built to a set of rules, which for Cams racing the car must comply, not only the class or category rules, but also for general vehicle requirements. To be able to build or modify the car first you need to know what you want to ultimately do. I would build a car that would end up door to door racing completely different to a targa car and different again for sprints and hillclimbs as the rules and requirements are all different for each discipline. For a S30 Zed, the only Cams categories it will be competitive in will be Group Sc for historics or in Prod Sports, where Sc specs falls in line with 2F specs. To be at the front in 2B a S30 isn't going to be anywhere near the front as the L series engine limits it as does the old suspension design, and the fact the body is nearing 50 years old and will be tired. And Cams categories still form the basis for all racing in the country even AASA are more than loosely based on Cams classes and requirements. As soon as you put anything but an L series engine in a S30, you have effectively made an orphan of your car that can't compete in any door to door racing under Cams. At QR you could run in outlaws, but again the car won't be competitive with what is playing there now. Not too many L series cars were quicker than mine up here that actually raced door to door, and for me to go quicker it would was uneconomical, the cost was going to be about the same as what the whole build of my S14 will cost to not go as fast as the S14 will. The L series cars quicker than mine before it got thrown away were Lee and John's stroker engine cars. For hillclimbs or sprints yes a Z can be made to be very competitive in some classes, or outright, but again, as soon as you change from a L series motor, if you want to step up to door to door you have an orphan car that can't be used anywhere other than QR. The beauty of building a car to the rule book is that you can go and race at pretty much any track in Australia at Cams or AASA events and know it will be accepted as it complies. With prodsports, I can race in 3 state championships, a national endure series that includes a one hour race at Bathurst and Phillip Island, I can also run in the 300km events and in any hillclimb or sprint event that takes my fancy. The only series for sports cars I can't run in is the Modern Sports Cars series down south as the plastic S14 doesn't comply with that series rules, but does comply with 2B. In terms of your car Richard, with the V8 filling the hole, apart from sprint events, where can you run? If you just want to do sprints, then more power to you for building a car that is different. If you want to go door to door anywhere but outlaws at QR, or the 300km races, you have created an orphan in terms of racing, a bloody quick orphan, but an orphan nonetheless.

On the old Falcon or Valiant, it was either hotwires, globes or jellybeans, 14x7" on the front 14x8" on the rear and the white lettering to the outside for the 352's if you were baller, Bridgestone SF340's for most or BF Goodrich's if were brave.......

And Richard with his usual dig back. Richard, as well as the historic racing, of which there was the Capricorn cup run over 5 rounds last year for Group S in Qld, there is also the ProdSports category which had 5 rounds of sprint racing and two enduro rounds, 1 hour events, in which a Group Sc car would be competitive in as it would run in the 2F class, or class E for the endures. Plus there are an additional 4 rounds of the Queensland Cams championships at Morgan Park for sports cars that prodsports don't count in their championship, that caters for sports cars where if enough ran, Group SC would get their own class. So for door to door racing that is something over a dozen events for a Group SC car in Queensland alone, so a bit more than the three you guessed at. What kills the s30 in the prodsports events for outright results is the limitations for the rules. My old car was a quick Zed, but a slow car in Prodsports, and to get it quicker needed a stupid amount of money spent to get another couple of seconds and still be compliant with the rule book. In addition to the door to door stuff there was the Tighe Cams Hillclimb series at Mt Cotton, the state hillclimb championship, 2 hill climbs at Noosa, but Richard won't go to those because his 300km/h plus Zed won't get out of 2nd gear so that isn't quick enough.... But if he ever went to Noosa and had a play, I know he would change his mind, Noosa certainly gets your attention. There was also all the street sprints in the greater South East corner, Gatton, Oakey, Fraser Coast and then the QR run sprint days. If you are going to run a Zed, you won't be getting outright trophies, but you will pick up a few class trophies. First off decide what competitions you want to run. if it's door to door and you are in Queensland, myself, and i'm sure Jason would as well, can offer to mentor you for what you need to do for yourself and how the car can be modified to comply with the class or category you want to run and introduce you to the relevant associations and people involved to get you on the track.

It's a baggy tyre for the rim, but that size was used on many a 7" wide rim on old XB/C falcons and Valiants back in the day..... And how the hell did you find some Yoki 352's? I wanted some for my charger and couldn't track any down.

To ask a silly question, why??? In my old race car the battery was mounted in the standard location in the engine bay. Yes I knew that there was a small effect on the weight, and it was weight that was up relatively high, but the safety aspect was more important to me. I wrote a sports 1300 off at Amaroo park in the early 90's and the battery was mounted in the passenger footwell. The battery was split open in the crash, I was using a bike lead acid battery, smallest and most cost effective at the time and would turn over the 3K Corolla motor. I ended up very nearly getting an acid bath along with the bruising and sore neck and bruised ribs. Even with being a gel battery, I wouldn't want the possibility of something that could come loose in the cabin. I have also seen what happens to someone wearing an open face helmet when a fire extinguisher breaks out of it's metal mount in a sports sedan, and it wasn't pretty. Even with the new race car build, the battery will go in the boot to make sure the cabin only has the bare minimum in it to function so there is less potential to be hit by stuff if the worse happens.

Not so much the power, but more the torque that will spit bits out, and also will depend on what tyres. From the guys on here that have them I believe most a re happy with the conversion. FWIW I never had issues with spitting out diffs or drive shafts with the race car on 240 wide slicks at standing starts sidestepping the clutch at 3500-4000rpm with standard R180 diff and drive shafts with 200rwhp and 212ftlb of torque at 4000rpm. At 6000rpm side stepping the clutch had the car sideways in a cloud of tyre smoke and the passengers loving it at a make a wish track and ride day.

Khumo KU31 are a pretty good road tyre for around $100 a corner, or try some Bridgestone RE002's, again a good quality tyre at around $100 a corner have had both on my MX5. Another option is the Achilles tyres, the sports not the semi slick tyre, I had them on my old S14 and they went alright in both wet and dry and were cheap. As Jason said, you only want a 205 or at most 225 wide tyre with either a 60 or 55 profile, even look at a 195/60 as well.

Computers are free. Also look at replacing the dash with a fibreglass or carbon dash and also using aftermarket gauges or fancy pants new style dash. For the S14 I will be using Motech M1 series ECU and the C125 race logging kit to replace the gauges. Here is a link to the 2B manual, well worth having a read if you haven't already done so, http://docs.cams.com.au/Manual/Race/RA16-Group-2B-2015-1.pdf As the rules keep changing during the year I just keep using the link and not worry about keeping a hard copy.

For 2B dry sumping is Ok so can drop the motor, however no changing firewall, rails or inner skirts. Motor can be moved around but must use standard mount locations, though actual mounts are free.

Just need to keep it L series and the idea about the bonnet for the ITB trumpets will need to be looked at, bonnet needs to be original shape. Best get the latest set of rules off the CAMS website as a pointer. ZG flares are no problem as long as you keep them within a specified distance of the standard arches, 200mm IIRC and track can be no more than 100mm wider than standard, again need to check actual rule. Some things can be moved around regard suspension location points and brakes are pretty free. Only other thing to worry about is weight will dictate maximum width of wheels, under 1100kg only allowed 40" of wheel width, over 44". Also no forced induction unless standard for car and then have to use standard turbo and manifold, thankfully no other restrictors.

Plenty of Group S events, Capricorn up here which is 4 or 5 meetings in conjunction with both QR/Lakeside and HRCC, plus CAMS championship race meetings at Morgan Park, 5 or 6, plus Prodsports sprint series, 5 events and an enduro plus the CUE enduro for prodsports that sees races in three states, plus the 300km enduro events at QR, Wakefield and Winton and then there is all the hillclimb championships and the sprint series, so plenty of racing for a Group S car. In outright terms it will outgunned against modern and some euro machinery, but my old banger was a top 5 car in Qld Prod sports, and will do very well in class to win a season championship where results in all races are important.

Richard, is the car being built to suit a set of rules or just as an exercise in because I can? Obviously the end goal for the car will determine how far you also go with it, I know the targa rules are a bit freee than the 2B rules in some places, but more restrictive in others. Same with racing, if you want to race at QR/Lakeside then you will fit in outlaws with their run what ya brung, but to play at door to door at Morgan Park will have to fit within 2A rules or 2B rules to get a log book.

There are still changes happening with the Prod Sports rules, but don't make S30 Zeds any more competitive.... You will never be able to change the L series engine for an RB or put a RB head on an L series and comply. The SCAA is also currently reviewing the the list of eligible vehicles for 2B and 2F cars to keep it more relevant and to also have three divisions of 2B cars, Division I as per now with 500 having to be made in a 12 month period, Division II as per now with a minimum of 10 registered in Australia in a 2 year year period, allows for things like MX5 SP's (100 made) and Honda engined Lotuses, and soon, Division III to allow import cars that are eligible for registration in their home country, like the Ginetta. And also giving the old GT cars a home, but they must be as per the homologation they raced as in the GT series and to the GT rules, ie they can't take advantage of freedoms under the 2B rules. Also Porsche Cup cars are not eligible for 2B at this stage. The eligibility list will also add some cars like the BRZ/86 and remove some cars, generally older models that are now used in historics only. Some of the rules in 2B are allowing some more freedoms and some are tightening up and some are fixing glaring errors, such as the rules saying that if it is not mentioned that it may be modified then it must be standard, and nothing is mentioned about computers for EFI, so technically every car with a modified or aftermarket computer is illegal in 2B, but in 2F this is legal as it mentions that computers are free.

Could also be a set of old Valiant triples, they ran two the same number and one different number to work better with the old 265 for the R/T vals back in the day, the two carbies with the same numbers ran on the front and the different one ran at the back, could also have something to do with the brake vacuum hose that was fitted as an option to the E49's and E39 spec cars to the inlet runner for number 5 or 6 pot in the manifold. Can't remember the numbers off the top of my head, but plenty of Valiant triples would have ended up being pulled off and used elsewhere when Valiants were not as loved as they are today.....

Last time i looked at it for my hemi 265 was looking around $150-$200 per pot.

Another step forward for the build. The suspension is in and once I have the fun tickets will be getting some very nice coilovers custom built to suit and the final set up of the suspension. The car is now on the ground and for the first time with wheels on it. Next week I plan to get the garage re-organised so I can get a spot back for the ute. So here is how the car is sitting at the moment...... And a view of the front suspension with the castor rods attached.... Plenty of room for the brakes using the 350Z wheels so the race wheels I am planning to buy should be a no brainer...... Next is to start on fitting the dash up and also some work on the doors, which will include removing the intrusion bar and cutting away as much of the inner skin as possible, but still be able to fit up the electric window motors and mechanisms.

Some more bits done to the car. Hopefully it will be off the rotisserie in the next few days and I can get a garage space back for the ute..... So from last time, I repainted the wheel wells and engine bay with the left over KBR to make it a bit neater with a more consistent colour over these areas, and also to cover the etch primer in the wheel wells where I flattened the guard lips so no more rubbing now I have worked out tyre sizes, will be using a 240/640/18 or 270/650/18 slick that will work nicely with the 4.3:1 diff and standard box with the motor planned. Wheels, at this stage planning to use Koya semi forged wheels, nice and light and able to get a custom offset as needed when I measure everything up... First step in getting the suspension back in was to fit the hardlines for brakes and fuel and get the fuel tank back in where it lives. I also bolted up the front cross member, because it was easy and it got me more room in the garage.... Next was making sure the rear cradle was right to go, including installing the diff and driveshafts. I can't believe I stuck with an old Zed for so long, how much easier is it to put a diff in and bolt up the drive shafts!!!!! I wish I knew about this much earlier...... Not the best photo, was beer o'clock and I had had enough for the day. Was an exercise to get the complete cradle onto the shell by myself, though an engine crane, ratchet strap and some imaginative thinking got it all fitted up in the end. Paul at Option 1 has lent me some shocks so the car can get off the rotisserie, which was much appreciated as was being able to raid the bolt bins for the LCA bolts and also for the use of the rattle gun to pull apart my front suspension I had so I could clean up and paint the upright and fit to the aftermarket LCA. And also not forgetting a big thankyou to Paul for fitting some 18" rubber for the right price on some 350Z rims I bought from Matt, Deus Ex, not long ago. So here is the rear end all bolted up and the brakes thrown on to see how the look. Being a Datsun, evrything just bolts up, as long as you know which bits you have and need..... And now with wheels..... Today was time to get the front suspension sorted out and fitted up. All pretty easy, just a pain in the arse to pull stuff apart to be cleaned and painted and then fitted up. Easy bit was the aftermarket arms to the cross member, the castor rods will have to wait until it is on the ground as the brackets for the castor arms bolt to where the rotisserie is bolted to the shell. I had some old front hubs I had bought off Ebay, and they were ABS hubs so I have the special hub ring that I should be able to use with the Motec for wheel speed in conjunction with GPS speed. I also took the opportunity to fit up the Z32 brakes I scored off Ebay for very cheap with new rotors, and again being Datsun it all bolted up not a drama. Getting stuff unbolted did prove frustrating at times. Again blurry photo because beer o'clock.... And a couple of pics for how the car is sitting at the moment. Once it is on the ground, then I can look at fitting the dash in around the cage and to start planning the wiring for the lights and accessories. Until I get some work I can't spend money on the car, which is frustrating, as it only needs the hydraulics, electrics, suspension, motor, ECU, wheels and tyres, a lick of paint and it is ready to hit the track.....

Richard I haven't cut any structure of the rear quarters, just folded the lip over. If I was cutting the quarters for flares, then yes I would be welding the rear quarters, but folding over a lip, never worry about it.....

Just etch primed at this stage, still have to do a little finishing yet, but the other race cars I never bothered and never had dramas with cut tyres or rust from just folding the lips over. Just need to take a couple of rough edges off and then repaint in KBR and all done.

For CAMS event yes you need a barrier, easiest is to cut a piece of acrylic to fit behind the roll cage as a barrier. The general requirements for automobiles in the CAMS manual will cover it, can't remember which schedule it is.

So it's been a while since the last update and not much has happened, but there has been some progress. The spare car has been stripped of the bits I need and is awaiting to be sold as a rolling shell. It provided the motor, a spare box, tailshaft, pedals some trim for the windows so they will sit properly and not flex, expected when they are 3mm acrylic. Leaking green blood as it is being prepared to have its heart ripped out..... And now where it sits forlornly waiting to be rescued.... Also sold one SR20 I had, a blacktop out of a S13, so no VCT, only a T25 and different inlet manifold to the S14, so couldn't use it in Prod Sports. The bloke that bought it got a bargain, and I got a diff..... So this was sold..... To buy this...... The other two SR20's, one from a S14 and on from a S15 are now at the engine builders to have a look see where we can make some gains within the restrictions of the rules. Looks like the motor will be a low boost, around 12lbs, running on 98 that will hopefully be nice and torquey using Motec's latest M1 series ECU and either a C125 or C127 data logging display to future proof the management side and provide me with more data than I will ever know what to do with...... The ute was full..... And today I finally got around to starting some work on the car. Before starting on bolting the brake and fuel hardlines back onto the shell, and refitting the fuel tank so I can reinstall the assembled rear cradle and then front suspension, so the shell can come off the rotisserie and I can get the ute back in the garage, I got out the angle grinder and FBH to "roll" the rear guards, well just knock the lip up so the tyres will fit with an extra couple of mm clearence and not be cut by the edge. Half way through side one.... Hammer was used..... Hammered flat and hit with some etch primer..... Before fitting the rear cradle I will be painting the inner guards with another coast of KBS to provide some extra protection. Hopefully this will be rolling and ready for paint in the next few weeks. I now have all the suspension arms ready to go and a new 4.3:1 diff with 2 way mechanical LSD and matching drive shafts ready to bolt in.

I'm good at that little welding with that flexible rod stuff and non arcing rod on little copper pads on plastic, but that big welding stuff, well lets say, that's why other people go to TAFE and I pay them money........ I would much rather tackle soldering up a PCB or a wiring harness than welding up panels.....

Nice job. That's going to be a nice old bus when it's back on the road, and kudos for doing the full build of the megasquirt ECU and then doing the tune. There are a few blokes with MX5's that have had some success with the megasquirts and ITB's.

Yeah, it's sad that there aren't too many "old school" blokes around that know how to set up older cars. I'm lucky up here in Brisbane that there are a few good blokes who know old cars, and at least one knows how to set up a Valiant front end to handle. Pics look great of the old girl being used as it should be.

Lee, I have a pair of Khumhos in 225/45/15 you can have, they are pretty shagged, I may have a second pair somewhere in the garage. If you have access to set of 16 inch rims i also have a set of slicks that you can have, but you will have to strip the tyres off the rims they are on. Matt