PZG302

Check Schedule J of the CAMS manual, it will specify the material and wall thickness as well as the design of the cage to comply. I doubt very much that JEGS will supply you with the papaerwork for CAMS compliance, let alone even know what a CAMS is..... At the $1000 mark you could easily get a local company like Brown Davies or Bonds or AGI to do one. Even hit up Lurch if he has time to do a fully complied and signed off cage. Going local will be a lot less of a headache than ordering through the states. Also on a lot of their "car" shows unless its a full on NASCAR or SCCA type cage they can be very hit and miss in what they do. Also the US standards mean diddly squat out here if they are not certified as FIA with the correct paper work.

Supplier can make a big difference to how well things go as well. I find the suppliers who have a big prescence on the web, and their site does cover international shipping quotes to Aus a generally pretty good, especially the euro sites. I have bought a few things off Demon Tweeks in the UK and all shipping quotes were as per the web based quote system in their checkout. They also have a good currency converter and automatically take off the VAT for local customers. Also Performance Plastics are another very good supplier in this regard, when I bought the 5 window kit for the S14 they emailed me back as soon as they could with freight quote and lead time for the windows, discussed my options and changed my order to suit. The windows arrived quicker than expected and no nasty surprises. In both cases the companies provided itemised invoices with the freight as seperate component to the goods supplied.

Where did yo steal my pikcha from Bro?? I mean do you even drift?

But there copies brah!!!! They will explode as soon as I fit them to my hektic car!!!!!! ;D ;D ;D ;D

For the torque of the 8 tyre diameters wouldn't really be an issue, but there is a real danger in going to too big a tyre with a more standard car. In the case of mine, going from the 15" tyres to the 18" tyres was like going from from a 4.1 diff to a 3.9 diff. This can make set up interesting with regards to gearing. In the wet I would use a higher gear than I would in the dry to make it easier to drive with the torque of the motor. It helped that I did have a big lazy truck motor with a flat torque curve from about 3500rpm.

An L series motor lets you know pretty well when its had enough and needs to go up a gear. If our doing it properly you don't have time to look at the tacho around lakeside anyways.....

a 240/640/18 is about the same as a 240/30/18 or 240/35/18. Most radial slicks are sized by width/diameter/size, though Yokohama were a mix of both sizings when I was using Super Tourer tyres off the factory BMW's

That's a bloody big tyre...... I thought he 240/640/18 slicks I ran on my 240 were big, they were about 20mm taller than the 15"s used for wets and hill climbs. I'm looking at running the same size tyre on the S14 as slicks are realtively easy to get in that size as a lot of the GT4 and some GT3 cars use this for fronts and Porsche cup use that size for fronts.

Reminds me of a Jenson "shooting brake", basically a gentleman's sports coupe that you can throw your various shotguns into the back off and after a day of blowing the shit out of the countryside, also load up a heap of grouse and pheasants for the cook to clean and dish up for dinner.....

But doing things right the first time is generally cheaper in the long run and works better too.

The highmount I am looking at should do the job, core is 690x190x86 and the total size with end plates is 838mm and 908mm from the mounting brackets. I will measure up the ebay cooler I have and if close enough in size and fits up in the top of the radiator support I may not have to worry about the intercooler itself and just get the pipes made up to suit. Which I did and it is too deep basically blocking most of the radiator. Looks like I'll have two intercoolers up for sale soon when I strip the other car......

So the hanging panels are on their way to be made into molds, I now have rear rotors to complete the brake hardware and I will be getting some Hawk brake pads in the next couple of months. I also found a nice intercooler solution for the car. rather than a big front mount, I was put onto a two intercooler solution where two standard intercoolers are mounted up in the standard location and the mirror image on the other side. This helps with response compared to the big front mount and isn't as exposed for damage and makes the airflow a bit easier to manage. I was then pointed to a website, http://www.partsshopmax.com/page.php?41 that has a high mount intercooler solution that will come at about $500 for a complete kit with some other advantages over the other two solutions: 1. Better response than a big front mount. 2. piping is a lot shorter, and also easier to bypass if I have a drama with damaging the intercooler for any reason. 3. As it it bolts up to the radiator support panel, bugger all fabrication to do. 4. In back to back testing on a car going from a FMIC to the HMIC, the car picked up some power, but most importantly the boost came in about 500rpm quicker. 5. Also lot easier to deal with ducting for the cooler and radiatior within the rules. When I get from Indonesia at the end of August I should have the light weight panels ready, a new diff ready and be making a trip to the Sunshine coast to discuss and order a set of coilovers. I hope to have the shell as a roller and off the rotisserie in October, where it will then sit next to a bus being painted and get covered in overspray....... After that, I have to start stacking up the fun tickets for the motor and ECU with dash.

S13 would be cheaper and you should find one that is already modded for track pretty cheap, look for one with a blown motor. The motors are cheap enough to buy standard.

Yep, Paul knows about these. Still waiting on a diff from Paul as well. I have to drop in on Monday to pick up some rear rotors so a bit more of the rear cradle can be put together. Will be pulling the hubs back off during the week to paint to make them as pretty as the rest of the cradle.

Once the molds are made they are very cheap, plus the fact that I will own the molds, so there may be a little extra money in it for me and the manufacturer supplying panels to the dorifto boys. The ABS has many advantages over fibreglass if damaged. Basically the ABS will bend and then split rather than break or shatter. Repair is easier, a bit of acetone along the split and it is glued back into one piece. As the car will be white, the panels will not need painting, as the base colour is a strong white, think of plastic garden chairs, so that saves a bit more weight and money when replacing. If the bonnet needs bracing, then glue can be used to attached alloy strips to the bonnet, still keeping it very light. Also the current fibreglass guards are all flared and shaped in a way (widebody) that is not legal for 2B, not easily available at a cheap price (for boot lid) or for the bonnets vented in such a way that they are not quite legal for the 2B rules. In getting my own panels then I know they are legal and are exactly what I want and built to my specifications. Basically, for the cost of a set of fibreglass panels that are not really legal for 2B, I get a couple of sets of ABS panels and the molds to make more as needed.

Well a small report on not a lot of progress. I am in the middle of a two week break from Indonesia and head back at the end of next week for a month and then I need to find six months work before I go back again next year for a six month tour of lesser known area of regional Indonesia. The wheels have been sorted, I will be running 18x9" wheels so I don't have to worry about flares and they are pretty much spot on for the tyres I will be running, Prsche cup fronts and also the same size as most of the GT cars for a source of second hand tyres wher they are cheap enough to have a set per meeting. For enduro type races, the one hour Prod Sports enduros and the QR, Wakefield 300, and may be Winton 300, races I will be running Achilles or Khumo slicks as these are cheap enough and hard enough to the whole weekend. The main update is I have a set of hanging panels, guards plus bonnet and boot, about to be sent away to get molds and ABS plastic panels made to lighten the car a bit. There are other advantages as well, they won't break or shatter like 'glass, generally bend and then split so can easily be glued back together to repair. The base colour will be white, so less painting for me, though they can be painted if required. Also suspension has been decided on and once I get back from the next stint for work, will be pulling the trigger on a set of MCA reds. These will have all the adjustment I will ever need and I probably won't be doing too much playing with them once they are initially set up. Hopefully the shell will be able to come off the rotisserie in September and be a roller ready for paint, and then once the dollars are there I can get the engine built and then it will be ready for shakedown. So at the moment I am looking like hitting the track in the car in 2015 sometime.

$49 melbourne to brisbane by Tiger......... just sayin'

Still doesn't make it something that should have been built in the first place. If they used a 280ZX I may have a different opinion about it

I'm sorry, but destroying a Z32 for that makes the Baby Jeebus cry a lot......

They made awesome rally cars in the first gen production rally car rules of the late '80's. Plenty of grunt could be gotten out of them, they were basically given away, so cheap to get and were tough as old nails when bouncing off trees in the bush. Other than that, they were horrible ugly pieces of shit that I now quite like in a weird way, same as I like valiants and citreons.

You use the dyno as the tuning tool it is and not worry about the numbers just the shape under the curve. I used to race with a car that was by most guesses at least 100hp down on other cars in the mid 90's, was still as quick on tighter circuits like Amaroo and Oran Park South circuit, and not that far behind on "power" circuits like Eastern Creek and Oran Park GP. The car was still good enough with me pedalling it to win a state championship so you don't need big numbers on a dyno to get results. For any track work, where you want to go really fast, as I have said before and yet to be proven wrong: You want to go seconds faster spend your money on brakes and suspension You want to go tenths faster spend your money on the motor. A well set up easy to drive car with moderate power levels will generally be quicker than some evil handling pig of a car with a mega horsepower motor. A well set up and easy to drive car with a mega horsepower motor is not as easy to achieve as you would think, especially for gentleman racers and sprinters like ourselves.

^^^+1 I've had a couple of dyno operators ask me what power would I like out of my engine when tuning or checking something. The best dyno is of course the old stopwatch

Since no one else did, I'll take the bait......

For any of my builds I have never asked for a price, just an indication of whether the budget I have in mind is doable, and then I double my budget if I am told yes. Sometimes I have been pleasantly surprised. It will be interesting to see how it all goes on the track. I know the LS is dirt cheap in comparison to most motors but no consideration for keeping it in the family, or looking at Toyota? Or does the cost of the LS make it that much of a no brainer???

If you have the conatcts to keep it Vic rego then keep it Vic rego, saves a lot of hassles. I'm pretty sure you don't have yearly road worthies in Vic, just for transfer of ownership, so if the seller already has that then you are good to go in keeping it a mexican car.