C.A.R.

Just swap the pedals over. There's no need to remove the pedal box.

Last we spoke your Z is getting engineered, correct mate? It's highly unlikely that any Mechanic performing the RW Inspection will pass a car with coilovers and/or adjustable suspension components, without an engineers inspection. The goal here is to get it on the road with as little hassle as possible, then Robbie can decide what to do after he's driven the Z for a while.

YOU SELL-OUT!!! I’m rather jealous.

Turned out to be a great day - only some minor showers interrupted the early afternoon.

Weather is fine here...

So with the AZC BBQ looming, I decided I better do something about the #*$^(%! horrible exhaust system that is on Evie atm. Gav wanted a system that mimicked the works rally cars twin system, however the sharp object that built it originally did very ordinary job... If you attended the last run with CSA, you'll remember the noise that this Z makes - a loud shreaking monotone wail that doesn't improve with RPM. It's just not a nice noise... I'd been discussing with Gav the best way to remedy the exhaust for a couple of months. Gav wanted to retain the twin system & not loose the 'character' (such that it was) of the sound. My plan was to make a new extractor secondary's & then remake the centre section of the exhaust system with a new single '2-in 2-out' muffler. I removed the old system, that as you can see has been very poorly thought out. The 1 7/8" secondary's had been cut back, flanged, then enlarged to 2inch with one primary pipe being run across & under the bellhousing - not good for equalizing flow... The rear silencers were just a couple of 12inch hotdogs - good for flow - terrible for noise control. I started by cutting the secondary's back & remaking them to merge into a collector at 28 inchs long. Then as a single system for 100mm at 2.5inchs I made it a slip joint with a band clamp. On the other side it split into a twin system again, at which point ran into the muffler, then retaining the rear of the old system exiting as twin pipes out the back of the car. The result - it's a lot quieter! It's still loud, but not as bad as it was... It still has an off-beat noise at idle, but the shreak at RPM is gone - replaced but the traditional L-series sound track. It's also lost the stumble it had when one changed gears & it feels slightly more responsive now too... All in all I'm pleased - I'll wait for your opinion when you hear it next Gav..................................................................................

Of what, Ned? If you have the part number, you just wander into your local Nissan dealer & place an order...

HS30-00060 is in Melbourne. It's been fully restored and is nearly back on the road.

I disagree Jason - the bellhousing is L-series. Filler plug on the LHS & rough cast Bellhousing with no reverse lockout - I'd be 90% sure it's a 240K gearbox. Ratios & syncros need to be confirmed however. It's the same length as a 260Z gearbox, but has brass syncros on 1st to 4th. It'll bolt up to your L26, but the ratios are crap.

Yeah, why not.

Nissan having none in the country isn't an issue - just tell them to order it ex-Japan. It might take a week or two, but at least you'll get it....

Strip it down to a bare shell, mount it on a rotisserie & have the shell media blasted. It's the only guaranteed, 100% way of finding out what issues the body has.

Having run an injected L24 before with a pump setup like you described, I never had a problem. I personally wouldn't worry about it. However if you are going to be making eleventybillion hp out of your 'turbo EFI 6 cylinder', you wouldn't run the standard tank anyway...

Have the OEM bolts re-plated Robbie. And any that are broken, damaged or rusted can normally be bought new from Nissan.

I just heat them up with a hot-air gun...

Jeff's is repaired? Looks good!

If the S13 tailshaft bolts to your diff flange, that will work. You may still have to adjust it's length.

Correct. The later 260Z springs are longer (taller) - it'd look like a 4WD if you fitted them.

It's called 'Bailey Channel'. Check Rare Spares or Clark Rubber for the correct profile.

Advertising on behalf of Clutch_Monkey as he's trying to find his login details. DO NOT contact me. However you can PM him here: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/user/103403-clutch-monkey/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 1973 240z, 23,000 miles on it or something equally tiny Body restored in 2011, was made to look like an east africa safari car. i pulled all the gay shit stickers off it immediately. L24 with mild cam, kameari manifold and triple webers tuned by CNJ, generic aftermarket exhaust. 280z 5 speed kameari front lip and CF duck tail. sparco seats weld in half cage comes with standard front bumper, was going to get a fibreglass one from otomoto new brake light seals, new hatch seal no rust i can find, as said, body was done in 2010 Located in Brisbane. Price: $45,000 (possibly negotiable for a quick and easy sale)

OK, I understand whats going on... Communication breakdown. These posts need to be split from the main topic as well - it's gotten off topic.

Yes William: kameari.ew@nifty.com I suggest you also read this: http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/13105-kameari-catalogue-in-english/

I don't understand what you are asking...? You could cut the old diff yoke off the 71A tailshaft, and use the 71C output yoke and join them together with a NEW TUBE.