C.A.R.

Hey Van, here's a couple of quick ones...: 1: Why would you want to go backwards with a L28? 2: I doubt very highly it would pass an engineers due to emissions. 3: Have you considered a VG30 V6 or a VH45 V8?

$37 from Rapeco/Bursons/Supercrap auto. They also have US/UK/Aus conversions...

No more comments in this thread. If you wish you know more, please contact the owner via PM or Email. Locked.

I've already driven it round the roads here Craig - not a problem

Or you could buy my 2+2 manual for 6k...

http://nissanpacific.com/reference/rb/7_oil_pan/index.htm#Oil%20Pickup%20Install

Care to say that in English, Nate?

Which bolts Ben? Get the digicam & post some pics.

Just remember if your going to compete in any forms of motorsport, woodrim steering wheels (except the fake wood rim (acrylic)) are now banned due to safty issues. So the woodrim Motolita one's are out

http://ozdat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=10823&highlight=shock+oil

Cheers guys. Thanks for dinner Sulio (I owe you one!) and Craig & Dimitri for the drinks...

Guys, Due to my imminent departure, Sulio, Craig & I are getting together tonight (1/5/08) for dinner. If anyone else would like to join us at 5:45/6:00pm at the Village Green on the corner of Fern Tree Gully & Springvale Road, you are most welcome to! Cheers...!

Updated just for you Evan

Evan, If yours is a later 260 2 seater with the taller rear strut towers, then yes, this conversion will work for you also

I certainly hope not Gav!

A combined effort sounds about right Though really, we have Nat0 to thank for telling us in the first place!

I'd be getting clarification on that Scootag. $US320 + $US101 for the Manifold & linkage kit. If you did what Sulio did & ring Redline Direct, he got his manifold for $290 + linkages.

Guys, Today I fitted the front strut tops into the rear of my 2+2. I'd already lowered it with Kings 'Lows', but I felt it needed to go a bit lower in the rear. As you can see there is a noticeable difference in rear ride height - much flatter. The front strut tops are a bit over an inch shorter then the rears on late 260 2 seaters & 2+2's (see pic). Quick step-by-step Guide: Jack up car & place on Axel stands. Remove road wheels. Undo the sway bar thats bolted to the lower A arm & move up out of the way. Place a brake line pincher onto the rubber brake and unto the rubber brake hose from the body. Undo the half-shaft from the hub via the 4 14mm nuts. Undo the 3 nuts that hold the strut in the strut tower & slide the strut out. Undo the 17mm nut & remove the strut top (use spring compressors to compress the spring if you have the std springs still in). Swap the tops over. Install is the reverse of the removal.

Sach, I guess it's just the 'Metal Worker' in me I don't like the idea of an Alum. sleeve on a steel strut I'm sure the Alum. if more then up to the task, but having it secured with grub screws... eeek! IMHO, welding on a ring for the sleeve to sit on would be preferable.

I agree with Ash. Real safety issue with the Alum. threaded collars...

Hahahaha I love to see that...!

Cool. I'm pleased to hear it

ETA till completion?

Go get a PBR HD Clutch kit from Bursons - $180 last time I bought one IIRC. No difference in pedal pressure or harshness in use, yet will last quite a bit longer with more clamping force. FWIW I always get a Clutch Kit (new Pressure plate, Driven plate & T/O bearing) just for reliability sake.

Your Wemen! How much for your Wemen?! Looks good Hoke. Perfect upgrade for a high powered L6 Zed.