gav240z

I'm just the messenger, when I post cars in this thread it's just a heads up mostly, unless of course I state that I think it looks like a good buy. But yes always inspect as photos and descriptions can be very deceiving. You and me both, 'new paint job' translates to "I just slapped a tin of nikki all over it' and hit it with the paint gun. She'll be right moite!". It doesn't look like a 'glass out paint job' to me. I don't know why it bothers me so much, but painting the airbox the body colour just really irks me. I think because the original orange would be such a nice contrast to the rest of the car and painting it the body colour just ruins what could be something nice.

260z 2 seaters $9k http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/herne-hill/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260-z/1055164974 This 1 might have flown under the radar with all the other 240z's that have flooded the market .

Yep. That 1 didn't come with underarm hair though... sadly the new owner will have to forego that option.

I like the drive in photos, I assume it's the Greater Union out in Blacktown just outside of Sydney?

Quite a few cars coming out of the woodwork lately, it's always the way. Quiet for ages with nothing on the market then about 3-4 show up in various states of condition.

When a car is that original down to original drivers mirror, interior, rear tail light garnish in that grey colour still etc.. you know it's probably not hiding too many problems. I bought HS30 00150 because the photos showed it was still very original. Otherwise you're undoing all the P.O's bodge work and hunting down missing parts forever. Dare I say it my #150 has actually been a pleasure to work on, despite the drivers door hiding a few gremlins - but I might be talking too soon. The lesson though is buy the most original complete car you can and start from there.

I thought the Rev might have scored that Green 1 in SA on Gumtree. PS: Sorry for tarting up your FS thread, not thinking today

Haha Safari Gold is getting a lot of love these days. Oh and to contribute something useful to this thread, I don't what wheels they are, probably discontinued by now. However Simmons make a 'mesh' style wheel that would work and I'm sure you could find a set someone had on an S30z at some point. Also look at SSR 'Meshies' or Formula Mesh. http://www.ssr-wheels.com/wheels/fm.asp http://monkeymagic86.wordpress.com/2011/01/10/pit-house-s30/ The car you posted has a very 90s S30z style to it, blacked out everything + body kit. Those flares are a bit too VW Beetle for my taste.

I may also be interested in the bonnet pending price and condition, is it non-fluted type?

That looks really worthwhile doing!

The centre Z caps for the hubcaps have appeared on eBay a couple of times over the last few years. I don't see any right now, but it means it is possible to find some. In terms of who can restore your hubcaps I'm not sure who locally does it, while searching though I found a couple of links: 1. http://hubcapsonwheels.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=42&products_id=815 2. http://www.hubcaps.org/240z.html It can't hurt to ask what prices they are selling for on those sites? You could always sell what you have to offset the cost of another set? You could also take Britney's advice here and give restoration a shot on your own? Ok with regard to your door trims, I see these on Yahoo! Auctions quite frequently. http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/l249877814 Now in order to get these, best thing to do is email Jesse Streeter jesse@jessestreeter.com http://jessestreeter.com/ Let him know you want to bid on item: l249877814 and he will tell you how much his fee is + shipping etc.. to your door. The reason you use Jesse is that a lot of sellers on Yahoo! Auctions want a bank transfer using Japanese bank account details and some may not post internationally. So Jesse has the items sent to him and pays via his bank account then forwards the item to you, for a fee. I guess you'll end up spending around $800 for a brand new pair. You might also want to try ordering via a local Nissan Dealer but I don't know any local Nissan dealerships that are helpful at obtaining S30Z parts I'm afraid. There used to be a Trevor at Brighton Nissan but I don't think he works there anymore. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php?topic=1736.0 FYI: I've used and use Jesse regularly for bits and pieces on Yahoo! Auctions and no problems! Good luck.

Oh let us know when you find the old 'hammer it in' and fill with bog technique. I haven't seen the fenders welded to the chassis yet, that's a new 1 for me. Perhaps the PO was fond of British sports cars? The broken fender bolts along the top of the guards are pretty standard. Rust kills them. I tried to go really slow on my Gold 240z when removing them. Managed to get most of them out without an issue except for 1 on each fender. Right where the channel sort of comes to a dead end before the radiator support area. Lots of crud builds up there and then you get the rust monster. Anyway, chin up if you can laugh off the dodgy repairs you'll be in better spirits. I certainly have a giggle now when I find the dodgy stuff. Feels good to 'correct' the last person's errors and do it right.

With all due respect you're looking for almost mint 40-50 year old hubcaps and expecting not to pay a premium for them? Granted earlier hub-caps are selling for around $600+ (D-Style) in avg. condition and these later style are more common. If your hubcaps are in better shape than those pictured, why don't you just restore what you have? I've seen people selling the 'red Z' emblem on eBay as NOS. So all you would need to do is polish your existing caps up and repaint them in that grey colour. They might also need a bit of hammer and dolly time if they are a bit dented, but I'm sure a good metal polish would get them looking good again. Other options. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-240Z-HUB-CAP-COMPLETE-SET-IN-OUTSTANDING-SHAPE-/151278414006 (MINT!) http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/DATSUN-240-Z-260-ZX-HUB-CAPS-Wheel-Trims-SET-OF-4-14-/251609670268 (worse shape than the cheaper ones). Just be thankful you're not looking for early D caps. http://jdm-car-parts.com/collections/wheel-nissan-datsun-fairlady-z-240z-260z-280z-280zx/products/wheel-cover-hub-cap-set-datsun-240z-series-1-nos http://shop.jdm-car-parts.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=26&products_id=403&zenid=smq78u1327ubg2cu2akk1hqb81 Even horrible 280z ones are expensive in NOS condition. http://jdm-car-parts.com/products/datsun-280z-1977-1978-hub-caps-nos In my opinion if you're that fastidious about your car, pay the premium price! These are not cheap Datsun's anymore, they are becoming collectible cars and demand is going up. Let me know if you need help obtaining door trims?

So I was looking for a while to track down the maker of these seats. I finally came across it and thought I'd share. Nakamae Type R Seats Website: http://www.nakamae.co.jp/index.html Page that features Type R seat: http://www.nakamae.co.jp/product_guidance.html Even in a vintage red! Couple of reviews here: http://www.miata.net/products/interior/nakamae.html Since they are bolt in mx5 seats they shouldn't be too much work to fit in an S30z. They look very similar to the PS30-SB seats (a.k.a 432-R style). Ikeda Bussan seats Image thanks to Kats here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/zcar-history/37009-what-about-z432-r.html#post314239 But as noted by HS30-H the originals had a "'hopsack' weave wool / acryl blend on the face ( office chair material! ) with black vinyl on the reverse side and headrest." You could trim these seats in a similar fashion (if you know the right person) and get a pretty period correct look without the discomfort of the originals or concern around wear etc.. *Edit pics of original material are in the same thread you dummy!

Ok so after getting the door stripped down I noticed a few spots where there were tiny pinholes from the rust. I gave the oxy/acetylene welder a shot to repair these areas and unfortunately I made a bit of a mess. Apparently the flame was too 'oxidized' and combined with relatively thin metal around the pitted and rusted areas I managed to blow a couple of holes in the door frame. Slightly oxidized weld. Not to worry though, as I made up some new sheet metal to fill the gaps and then had some help with the tafe teacher in repairing them again. This is the hole in the rear of the door where someone had previously 'reamed' it out to enlarge it. Probably in a fit of frustration trying to get the door to line up along with the chrome trim frame. We welded a patch in, then I drilled a new hole. Here is the bottom of the door where I just blew right through it like a "blowtorch through butter". If you recall the dodgy looking weld around 1 of the bolt hole / captive nuts on the inner door from earlier? Well.. I took a template from the door hinge and then used that to better align the 3 holes. Once in place I put a bolt into the thread to tighten it down. 1 of the other captive nuts was sitting a bit proud also. So again threaded the bolt in to make it sit flush against the frame. Then I hit both of them with a mig welder (no help from the teacher!), I've got my MIG at home set up and was practicing with it during the week. Having used both Oxy/Acetylene and MIG now I have a good reference point to compare. The Oxy needs a lot more skill, but is also more flexible in terms of being able to re-shape the area you're working with a hammer etc.. The MIG is generally easier to use but produces a harder weld and can leave a lot of excess material (which when you're a beginner is obviously more exacerbated than a pro would leave no doubt). I've also tidied up a couple of other minor holes (like those put in the door for the door trim at the bottom) and we have been beating the door shell back into shape. It seems it's sustained a minor knock at some point in it's life which probably threw everything out of alignment and now we are trying to put it back as it should be. The replacement skin seems to fit quite well, but I won't know how good it looks till I've fixed it to the frame and tried to mount it back on the car and align it. I guess it doesn't look like much has happened, but it's been lots of fiddly little bits. I know this is a tutorial, but I think it's good to show what can and will need attention on our cars, since not every car is going to be a straight forward pop the old skin off and the new 1 on kind of deal. These are 40+ year old cars with 40 year old problems. So I figure this might help others to know what to expect and how to go about fixing it. Oh and I finally think I've worked out what happened with this door, I think it had a minor nudge, someone went to fix the alignment, didn't bother to remove the door trim properly tried to pull the door card out of the way, cracked the underlying masonite and probably did that dodgy weld on the captive nut. Sounds plausible to me so I'm sticking with it. I've also got to sort out these previous repair area (looks like brazing). Since it is near the hinge area there is another piece of steel on the inside of the door that would need to be unpicked before I could get to the other side of it. Since it isn't rusty I am thinking of lead filling the area and smoothing it over, so that will need to be taken care of also. Hopefully it won't be too much longer till I can put the door skin on. But first, rust proofing. If anyone has some advice on how I should go about this let me know?

I want both of you to be aware that whenever I read posts between the pair of you - this song is going in my head. On a more serious note though I'd be happy to put something up on the website homepage (I was contacted about it) but so far have very little detail to put up there. I can be slow to do it, but I will eventually do it!

These look pretty nice to me. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-240z-Hubcaps-/251621397609 Interior trim panels in excellent or new condition are probably worth between $600-$800 if you can stomach that? Second hand sets have not come up very often in good condition.

You can get FD seats in red - just sayin.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-1995-Mazda-RX-7-Custom-Leather-Trimmed-Upholstery-Seat-Covers/380971552861 http://rx7.com/store/rx7/fdinterior_accessories.html (only shows tan and black here). Since my RX-7 is Silver I wanted to go with a red leather interior, but couldn't find a good set of second hand seats. I personally love Silver + Red exterior / interior trim combinations.

If the camshaft is binding it could be a result of the camshaft towers being out of alignment. This can happen if the cam-towers are removed and when re-torqued down in such a way that it causes binding. If the head was previously shaved someone may have put 'shims' under the towers to help with timing chain slack. The cam-towers may also have been removed and then installed again out of order. It is important to mark them in relation to each other when removing so you can put them back in the correct order. I'd check how each cam tower is torqued down, check if different thickness shims are used, check to see if they might have been installed in the incorrect order (any punch marks in the top of them?) The mechanic you spoke to might be right, but doesn't mean it can't be fixed.

$1900 is a good price considering how much work it would be to make a set, I've seen some headers in Japan cost close to that on their own! Going with a full package makes sense and you'll have a better overall finish as a result no doubt! S30z's came with cast exhaust manifolds. They look like this. Not many still have these things fitted after 40 years of service. NB: Photo is a US car, with extra emission tubes going into the headers for an air pump?? (I think). I think your only concern with fitting this exhaust system is that the rest of your engine bay may look a little bland in comparison.

Can I ask what the full Fujitsubo system cost once landed and imported to your door etc..? If you would rather PM feel free to do so?

Yeah but I think with this car, unlike some of the others Rev missed out on the person who bought it got it fair and square. Not dutch auctions!

I wouldn't worry about damage to the motor George. It was going to need a tear down and rebuild anyway.

I think my Mikuni's were just under $1000 at the time or so. I can't recall now if I paid any extra when they arrived but I had to go to the customs office to collect them. It was many years ago now (2005 if I recall correctly).

Bump. So I found this on Yahoo! Auctions a couple of weeks ago and thought it was an AU market drivers side mirror. Now that I got it home I am wondering if it's actually a fender mirror? I took some photos for reference. (sadly my 240z driver side mirror for the red 72 240z is in Melbourne so I can't compare, but it seems the angle of the stalk on this 1 is longer and more angled to the right (away from driver side). It's not a US market mirror because the angle would be totally wrong for the other side of the car and flipping the mirror would make it look plain wrong. Anyway it came in this bag. That looks like a Nissan part no. to me? 25360-N4400 - but I'm not sure if anyone can cross reference it? Here is is offered up to the door. I think this photos shows that it seems to extend out further right than I would expect. The purple is a form of protective plastic on it, it peels off - which makes me think it could be NOS? Notice the angle it's droops downward. Offered up to the fender. It was listed as a right hand Hakosuka / S30z mirror. It almost seems like it would be more suitable as a fender mirror.