gav240z

Hahaha, well done. I like the 432 style also. Don't see many Z's in AU, let alone many with that config.

http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/w105405538 Just stuff some steel wool in there - she'll be right!

Seriously if it doesn't have any structural rust and looks as good as the photos suggest I'd ask $24k and I wouldn't budge. Too many dreamers think a Z is worth nothing....

http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/d157103133 S20 motor up for sale.

I was wrong, 61,000 yen. Before shipping and broker fee's. Makes the pair I got seem like a bargain!

Hey that isn't bad for a car sitting so long. I guess the dry weather doesn't destroy the bodywork on cars like it can in other areas of the country. Be sure to upload the interior photos. Could use a good laugh. I had a laugh the other day when I discovered someone had tried to repair the door trim on my 240z using cardboard. I do wonder how long they thought it would hold up?

I still can't work out what it is. It looks like a floor pan but I'm guessing it is some kind of undertray?

I believe the turbo ZX had a CAS distributor set up which you can use as a trigger for aftermarket ECUs. They look like this: http://forums.ctzcc.com/viewtopic.php?t=5784 http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=24104&start=15#p203487 Zshop recently sold 1 on eBay. http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/240Z-260Z-280ZX-240K-MQ-Patrol-L28-ET-Turbo-Electronic-Distributor-Datsun-Nissan-/281323802960 The only downside I can think of is the fact that it's still a mechanical set up and that can have slop in it if/when it wears. Most modern cars no longer have a distributor with a shaft to drive it. They fire off a sensor - which is all set up electronically. Still a good bang for buck set up. If I go fuel injected throttle bodies on my cars I'd definitely look at this.

This makes me a sad panda. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1972-Datsun-240z-Parts-Car-/321470586542 But this car is a good example of why you don't buy a car just because it has shiny paint http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-Z-Series-None-1972-datsun-240-z-2-owner-/301252149550

S30z fender mirrors. http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/h191063987 I'd bid 50,000 yen to secure them. Only a few hours to go.

If you want higher end there is a Kameari set up also. http://www.kameariusa.com/l6-race-distributor-ignition-control-kit/ At that price though I'd probably look at a crank angle sensor type set up.

Kameari do FRP backings - which would look good without the trim (if originality doesn't matter?) http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/q30467872 http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/q30331452 Not exactly cheap, but could be a good mould to make more fiberglass ones from? - Which could then be covered.

It says it's a Works Replica unit. I prefer the Z432 version though. http://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/185240207

So cheap considering what it would cost to build... Note the vin, don't see that often!. ghls30037254 G for 2+2 HLS30 for Left Hook 280z I'm used to seeing GRS30 for our Aussie models

No I use Jesse Streeter. Highly recommended.

Vince I'd love to see #51 at some stage. Sounds like a good project. Here is another random video I found. I have no idea what's going on, but found it entertaining.

I have seen these exhausts floating around Yahoo! Auctions. http://www.buyee.jp/item/yahoo/auction/b160019822 If you wanted to find 1 cheaper, but sometimes it's nice to get something shiny and new.. There's a song about that...

That's true, they could have been retrofitted in place of the Australian style flat ones. So can't assume anything I suppose. Another thing is you can see there is no side indicator on the front fender so it's likely an early 240z .

+1 I've been thinking about it also.

Good find, that will not last long!

Check this out... I was looking up Evan Green after watching that Shannons Interview with Alan Moffat again and i noticed at 1:50 min mark there is an S30z in the background. But what is interesting is the fender mirrors! Which shows our AU market cars did get the Japanese Market style bullet mirrors. I was never quite sure if these were original or retrofitted in later years by owners. But given the age of this footage it would appear we did receive that style of mirror.

Fairlady Z Club of France. I like seeing how different regions have different styles in their builds of S30Z's.

Sounds and looks good Mick - I like the finish you got. So is it this place you went to? http://www.yellowpages.com.au/nsw/rosebery/alexandria-plating-pty-ltd-12465662-listing.html

So I continued with my door skin removal / replacement at the Tafe Course. At the Tafe course they encourage you to learn and give it a go yourself, so when I proposed a new door skin the initial reaction was, but why don't you fabricate 1? Well I explained that you can get them new for about $200 odd yoyo's and I said I'm not sure the rest of the skin is worth saving (apart from the obvious holes at the bottom of the door) I suspected quite a bit of filler in other areas. Unfortunately the sand-blaster was occupied and was going to be for a couple of hours, so I couldn't use that. Instead I decided to get the stripping wheel out and see what's hidden under those suspect zones. Hmmm bog, and quite thick too! Yet I can't see any reason why, there was no rust in those spots, but I made a snap decision and decided I'd rip the entire skin off. Now before you attempt my method, you should consider the custom screw driver that Lurch showed earlier in this thread, I suspect if you want to save your old skin but remove it to treat the door frame or fix rust in other areas of the skin then save the skin you'll want to look at that method. My method means the skin is probably not able to be used again without a lot of work. I used an air sander here (don't know the grit) - but you could also use a grinder with grinding disc. However if you opt for the grinder be very light, as I imagine you'll chew threw the edges in no time. I used a sander because I could control it more (at least that's my theory). If you don't have air tools don't worry you could also use a flap disc on a grinder, this was my plan originally but I'm just using what's available to me and is convenient. There is more than 1 way to skin a cat. The idea here is to grind the edges of the door skin, do this until you can start to see separation between the metal, if you look closely at the image above you'll see a faint line forming. That is all you need to do, don't go any further. Once you see that line, stick a chisel (sharp) up against the line and use a hammer. You should be able to wedge it in between the frame and the skin and start to separate them like so. Repeat all the way around the door, you would find a couple of spots where the factory welded the skin and door shell together. You won't be able to grind the edge here. What you'll need to do is use a grinder and cutting disc to undo the weld. Be careful using the grinder and go slow to prevent 'over-cutting' and cutting into the door frame. Sorry no photos of this step, but it's not rocket science. Once done you should have something that looks like this: Door skin inside What looks like previous welds / repairs to the skin? Someone was here before? Looks like an extra nut was welded in here. - Not a clean weld is it? Other side. What is interesting is that I only pulled out 2 bolts from the bottom door hinge - yet there is 3 holes. This got me thinking again, is this the original door? If not why is it Safari Gold on the inside under the door trim? If anyone can take photos of their door shell on a 240z for comparison I'd appreciate it. This side and the other side (See photo above of the separation between door shell and skin), where I have that odd custom cut hole. Also notice how the door skin has that bracket at the top? Well I won't be throwing this skin out until I have seen the rare spares replacement item and compared the 2 (new vs old) and then fitting the new skin in place. I might just need to borrow some stuff off the old skin yet. Thankfully it seems the door frame is pretty clean from rust - mostly just surface crap. I'll be sand blasting and etch priming it next. Any rust proofing tips? POR-15 perhaps?

I don't have any experience with these is that your main concern? But I believe they are a quality item and I like the dual exhaust look (that the 432's and I believe 240zg's also had). If you're looking for a performance set up though you may want to consider Peter Mac or Les Collins. I know that when Peter Mac saw my dual exhaust set up (custom) on my 72 240z he mentioned I'm probably loosing power and the dual exhaust is an 'old school' approach. I'm not sure what performance gains (if any) the Fujitsubo offers? Roberto had a custom system built by Peter Mac and Les Collins. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Pj4eWW4j3DY Sounds awesome! Of course Roberto's had a bit more work done to his motor and that cam lope is just awesome sauce