gav240z

haha, not saying I'm keen on doing it with mine.. There are probably better ways.

A slapper is really more useful for raising low spots, for removing the oil caning effect heat shrinking is the way to go. It's not really easy to explain here, but essentially you look for the high spots on the panel and heat them up with an oxy torch (or similar) until you see a little cherry red spot, the you place a dolly under the panel on the rear side (but not butted up against the panel) just a mm or 2 away (for some give) and you hit around the hight spot a few times (in a sort of circular motion) and then finally slap the middle (where it was cherry red down) also. Then you quench it with a wet rat. It's really something you need to be shown to be honest. The slapper will harder the area and may stop oil caning but you may introduce a high spot (which is worse than low spots). I have a spare passenger headlight bucket you're more than welcome to have if it's of any use to you? https://photos.app.goo.gl/5OVgK0UxWOju7uZk2 it's split at the front, someone has welded in a piece (quite poorly mind you) on the right hand side) and it has a broken stud. The melted spots are where I filled in holes from headlight covers using an oxy as practice. If anything you may be able to cut pieces out of it as it's relatively rust free (apart from surface rust)? I don't throw anything out, this is an example of why. I didn't bother to repair it as someone else gave me a good passenger side unit which was in near mint shape. I could possibly post it also, I'd guess it would be $14-$20 within NSW?

I agree with Alex on the flap disc (don't use it!!!!!!) you will create low spots on the panel, which will require filler. This is because it's an aggressive disc that will thin out the metal. I learnt this the hard way also. If you're going to use it to strip a section keep it perpendicular or flat to the panel (don't come at it from angles). Only use it to strip thick layers of bog (and glad you were wearing a mask!). The crumpet wheel is far less aggressive to the metal and much safer. I think the big problem you had with the stripper is it's not aggressive enough. You should try aircraft stripper instead, I've found regular paint stripper too weak but aircraft stripper is much more aggressive and suitable for automotive paint etc.. It won't remove bog though! Blasting is good (glass beads) but it leaves the metal a little furry - which is totally fine for a layer of primer. Not sure if you've seen my bonnet repair thread? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12272-separating-bonnet-skin-and-frame/ Don't use ZIP CUTTERS if you plan to undo spot welds... instead use the smaller spot weld cutter drill bit possible. But repairing the bonnet could take a while, the rear is more of a concern than the front end ding to me. The front could be pulled out with an easy beat, but you may not have access to 1? http://www.easybeat.com.au/ Alliteratively you could tack weld on small washers etc.. to use a slide hammer to pull it back out. Fortunes? More like tortures I would actually scrap the headlight scoops, they are fubar mate. Yes you could invest hours "fixing" them, but the result will never be as good as just sourcing a better set to begin with. (Welding up the split will not be easy given the angles etc..) You can still get them cheap, try eBay US even. They are so common between 240z/260z/280z that they are not that hard to get and therefore cheap. A hood/bonnet is much harder, but there is reproductions available now, I'm just not sure how well they fit. I may order 1 at some point if nobody else takes the plunge before me. But non OEM stuff will always need more "tweaking". Unfortunately as stated above most bonnets have had a hard life. I tried to source a better second hand 1 here only to find everything was in worse shape than what I started with on the Gold car. Layers of bog... layers upon layers. 1 bonnet I found was literally twice as heavy as a regular bonnet it was that full of bog haha! PS: I know how it feels to look this dusty...

Updated thread to remove references to photobucket and fix broken images. Had to split original post into 2 as a result.

Continued from first post... AMF Small This one costs $110.00 inc I don't have an example of this one. AMF BRE Lip This spoiler costs $165 from AMF. Greg's Extended BRE Lip Greg said he could possibly be persuaded (~$140) to make some more of these, so PM member galderli if you want this style: This is Greg's spoiler painted on the ground compared to the original BRE lip style on the car. OTMOTO Carbon Front Air Dam Benzed at OTMOTO sells a carbon front air dam for all you racers for $680. I believe this looks similar to the first front air dam from allzparts when installed. OTMOTO can be contacted on 02 8677 4890 or through member Benzed on this forum. OTMOTO Fibreglass Kameari Front Air Dam This is the Kameari airdam that Ben has on his car and he is selling it for $415. OTMOTO can be contacted on (updated) 02 8677 4890 or through member Benzed on this forum. If anyone can think of any others, please let me know and I'll add them in -Steve

2 different methods for how to widen steel wheels.

The Gulf Oil paint scheme is nice and the car well built and executed. For me though it has no real historical connection or relevance so that's why it's not something I would build but as far modified S30z's go it's great. I still to this day see some customisation that just makes me shake my head in disbelief... This car is not 1 of those cars though.

This thread was useful until Photobucket blocked Images. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/3140-types-of-s30-front-air-dams-and-where-to-get-them-in-aus/

Back in the year 2000 Unique Cars listed the 240z in the top 10 cars to buy NOW! They were a little early, but prices were $2k for a rust bucket and $12k for a fully restored car (maybe $15k for a top example). Times have changed a little. Oh and 260z's were quoted as about half that value.

Found it, here are some photos. https://photos.app.goo.gl/3OdTp0qGz0HZ7zTZ2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/GxfCk1hEPLZWup9z2 https://photos.app.goo.gl/zMzfNXxNT676CAky1

For the man with everything Datsun and needs even MOAR Datsun stuff. https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/parts-other-makes/accessories/auction-1419577121.htm

Jeff this the 1 you want? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic02a01b/50-1402

I don't know of a single good carpet kit for a 240z/260z that is currently available and is "original" - I think the original carpets are loop pile. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12018-carpet-kits-datsunpartscom/ Rare spares offer a kit (no idea how good it is). http://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/SearchPage.aspx?type=partsfinder&pno=0&brand=nissan&model=datsun+240z+260z&car=34a According to Zhome.com http://zhome.com/Classic/Restore/70RestoFAQ.htm Q: Was the original carpet loop, or cut pile? A: - It was a black nylon loop I believe the carpet in HS30 00150 was "original" and I should really take close photos of it.

The zinc covered stuff is much more of a pain in the butt to weld (especially with Mig) but it can also contaminate an Oxy weld. Therefore I rarely use it. The other stuff does tend to flash rust, so you can spray with WD40 or cover with lanolin to protect as a temporary measure.

I don't think so, I was originally suspect of the chassis and matching no. L24 but the ID plate is a reproduction and the stamping was done differently to factory. However the numbers and ranges match up.

http://www.kangamotorsports.com/blog/2017/1/porting-polishing Has some tutorials on cylinder head work etc.. probably not Peter Mac, Stewart Wilkins, Les Collins level expertise but still useful.

https://www.carsales.com.au/private/details/_/SSE-AD-4991962 Asking $43k

Started to make replacement brackets... Original.. Still need to drill holes and cut slats in.. Wonder if there would be demand for these?

Anywhere you want really, but there might be space in the storage bins

Recent photos and videos of the car can be found here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B_tGt5V5rGDVOWJwMnVvSHkwYW8?usp=sharing

Hey Folks, So I am looking at this paint (in grey) for my 240z undertray. I was originally going to powder coat, but figure a oil/gas resistant paint might be the go? http://www.rustoleum.com/product-catalog/consumer-brands/auto/specialty-paints/high-heat The demo video shows 2 methods for curing. They show an oven (although it says fumes are not toxic - I do wonder about the health of putting it in an oven you plan to cook food in). They also show you can run your motor to cure the paint. However obviously an undertray won't benefit from a running engine (not that I have 1 anyway!) so I was thinking either leave it in the sun to bake on a hot day OR use a heat gun, but they show when curing using an exhaust and it's heat that you should cycle between warm and cold). I'm not really sure why this is and what negative effects would result from not using either of these methods? Anyway have any ideas or suggest another durable satin finish paint I could use instead? The other option I was thinking was caliper paint - since I also have some brake disc hubs to paint etc..

As the subject says, I've created a new Q&A section for posting a question where you don't expect the answer to remain for over 60 days. This is great for all those questions you wanted to ask but wasn't sure warranted an entirely new thread of it's own. Named in honor of our member Aircobra* who takes the shotgun/pepper approach to Q&A and new topics. Something I've been meaning to do for a while as I often have my own random questions. *Hope you take this small ribbing it in your stride mate...remember it's because we care.

Member SpecialP3 wants the blue tint glass.. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/15504-wtb-240z-drivers-door-glass-blue-tint/

What do you want it for? Kick panels in the foot well? Or door cards?

Yeah along with 'easy restoration'... Haha.