gav240z

I'll try give you a call tonight to discuss.

Let it snow, let it snow, let it snow. Lachlan took her for a spirited drive recently and it snowed.

Trays #1 and #3 are sold. - Haven't posted yet (sorry mate will do so soon!)

As per this thread on bonnet skin and frame work. The skin and fame are now back together.. What a mission it's been! Still lots of dressing up to be done and tidying up etc.. So the other thing I did last night was tidy up the worst of the 5 Topy wheels I imported. This 1 was by far the most corroded, but I was kind of inspired to clean it up after seeing this video. I was always going to get them powder coated until I saw this video. maybe it's his enthusiastic voice? How it was before.. After blasting I found this problem around the lip. Good thing about Steel Wheels is you can weld them easily! After grinding etc.. now for paint.. Only challenge is some surface pitting, I am hoping high fill primer will take care of that though? Since this is the 5th wheel if it doesn't turn out as nice it can become the spare wheel.

So... I had painted the bonnet frame with KBS rust seal. The plan was to use the anti flutter foam adhesive between the frame and skin, but the stuff I bought Monday from Autolac was unfortunately just past it's ideal 24 month use-by and as a result had gone hard. So that was a good waste of money and time... make sure if you buy these products you buy them right when their going to be used as they expire and go hard and then are useless. So plan B was to weld and join bonnet frame and skin together and then add in the adhesive through gaps later. The good news is now the bonnet sits nice and flat. When trying to align it before the fact that the skin wasn't fixed in place just made things harder. Now that the skin was welded in place I could fold the rear lip back over the frame. This allows the bonnet to sit flush all around (rear side also). I realise the photos don't show a huge difference, but trust me each step in the process has been significant but not necessarily easy to convey through a few images. You kind of need to see the panel in person and feel it with your hands to see high / low spots etc.. My favorite new view, looking down the bonnet from the driver seat and no flutes! All the years I've looked down my 72 bonnet at the flutes and wished they were not there. My first car was my 73 240z and I just loved peering down that long smooth bonnet. Some final minor adjustments to the front edge are required and it's not welded to the frame along the front edge yet. I'll be doing that with it on the car to make sure I get it right.

This car? Did the previous owner know what they were?

Rally version or z432 version?

Damn it, you're setting the Safari Gold bar high now...

It's rare you come across such a great detailed video, but here it is. Worth subscribing to his channel also. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCes1EvRjcKU4sY_UEavndBw Youtube User: ChrisFix

Real Estate is for losers The market that has grown four times faster than property: classic cars https://www.domain.com.au/news/the-market-that-has-grown-four-times-faster-than-property-classic-cars-20170824-gxxg90/

If you do use a chemical stripper make sure you wear appropriate protection and do so in a well ventilated area! This is a very gentle method of paint removal for external panels. I wouldn't use it inside the car myself.

Champion! Engine number should be in the L24-05XXXX range.

That is my sentiment also really, if reproductions are made I would rather see them made as a quality or faithful reproduction and in appropriate sizes etc.. than suddenly flood the market with cheap imitations which would only make it more difficult to verify originals. What makes them special is also their rarity.

Wonder what number it is?

Recore the original to 3 core, looks 100x better in an S30Z engine bay in my humble opinion.

Nice Canadian S30Z. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-31/

Can't say I've ever seen that cover? Perhaps from another car?

I've seen this car in person. https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/d/1972-nissan-fairlady-datsun/6287383350.html $6,500 USD. If folks are interested I may be able to help with info on it etc.. it's the car under this mess. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/16186-importing-panels-from-north-america-mostly-240z/?p=193061 I have more detailed photos of rust spots etc.. all very typical, rockers, sills, floors etc.. But it is RHD!

40mm Solex/Mikuni PHH carb. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/pooraka/engine-engine-parts-transmission/solex-side-draught-carby/1157755224 $160... missing stator. Probably worth it for parts alone.

Do it Andy! https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/castlemaine/cars-vans-utes/1979-toyota-celica-coupe-ra40/1156693868

Post a photo, can't really visualise it that well myself.

The shrinking disc did more damage than it fixed I'm afraid. So had to do a whole lot of heat shrinking to re-work the panel. Chalk that up as another mistake while working on this part. LOL... So only minor updates.. 1. I filled in the holes where the badge was, because someone had elongated them too large. So we used body solder - which is much like using a soldering iron with flux/lead. Video here shows the process. Although instead of a butane torch, we used a soldering iron (electric) to melt it onto the bonnet. A bit tricky with a larger hole, but managed to fill it, then file it down. In the photo below you can see 1 side has been filed and the other not yet. 2. Next step is to get some kind of panel adhesive to bond between the frame and skin. I might actually weld it into place first, then squirt the adhesive in afterwards to prevent the chance of creating a high spot (if the adhesive is too thick) or low spot if the adhesive pulls the panel "in" too much. I'm not sure what material the factory used, but I'll likely use something like this Lord Fusor stuff. https://www.lord.com/products-and-solutions/adhesives/fusor-121124-flexible-foam-(super-fast) 3. How it's sitting at the moment (photo before the holes were soldered up).

Yes quite reasonable really.

Yes that 1 on the left looks very similar.