gav240z

$46k USD for a low mileage 260z. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1974-datsun-260z-7/?utm_source=dailymail&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=2017-09-27 Gotta love Hipster man in this video clip LOL... NB: Missing the original flat top hitachi's!

Just wondering as I'm looking to ship a NOS passenger rear 1/4 panel for a 240z from Europe back to Australia. But Air Freight would be too expensive.

Yeah I've got 1 of those too.

Is UPS sending via Air or Sea Freight?

Saw that on Facebook, but Ari did it better Skip to 1minute in.

I invested close to $500 in my rear bumper by the time it was rechromed, new rubbers bought (including the end caps that our market didn't get) and overriders chromed with rubbers etc.. and I still have to buy fasteners and paint the rear brackets in rust proof paint etc.. So price is not bad, provided the quality is there in terms of the chrome work and fitment etc.. I still prefer to restore OEM parts than buy reproduction stuff - I haven't seen this bumper in person to look at the quality vs my original but I did buy their aftermarket rubbers!

Yeah nice work on the airbox, a few indentations in the steel would give it more rigidity but also more of a factory look. I would like to try build something similar for my Triples in future. I like the look of the bright orange OEM air box in a 240z engine bay

I burnt mine till they fell out, not environmentally friendly though....

Hey Folks, Thought I should make an update here, I've had a few PMs about importation of panels. I'm actually waiting on my contact in the US to get an inventory together of stuff and prices. He's busy like all of us with work, but may have some time off in a few weeks where he could be available to actually drive the stuff interstate and drop it at the West Coast warehouse / depot. In the interim I've been importing a couple of things for myself NOS (drivers side 1/4 panel), bonnet and a second hand roof turret, but when I went looking for a rear valance section I actually found a passenger side rear 1/4 panel (NOS) and a roof (but someone else got the roof) and also this inner wing panel. NOS passenger 1/4 panel (for #HS30 00051) Inner Wing (for LHD car as it has battery box on RH side) I will probably grab it also, since it won't add much more cost to the shipping process. I don't need it for my builds and although it would be good for a spare, but if anyone needs this piece please let me know? Happy to put your name on it, no price yet as I have to negotiate that with shipping and import duties. I've also been trying to find alternative sources for panels etc.. but many sellers only want to deal face to face and cash transactions, so that makes it a challenge. The other idea I had was to use an intermediary within the US like a service called TaskRabbit. https://www.taskrabbit.com/ To see if someone can act as a grunt on the ground to go do the deal and drive the stuff to a local warehouse (East Coast / West Coast) but that would bring in another third party..Since this is only something I'm trying to organise part time (outside of work hours) that's why it's slow moving. If you're in a rush to get panels you might want to make your own plans, if you're happy to wait then keep waiting Not sure if it would be helpful for all of you? But I might create a spreadsheet so people can enter in details around what panels they need and budgets their working to? Since I've had quite a few PMs but a bit difficult to manage like that.

E88 EFI head on L24 block (W24) https://page.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b276233184

I continued on with my valve cover repaint. Sanding down the letters and the outline around it. It's turned out better than I expected to be honest. The photos make it look more "pink" than it is in reality, but it certainly makes a statement.

I thought only "Merican's" did that sort of thing, but that's RHD!

Pics or didn't happen mate! Good to see this thread get a bump, might give me some motivation to do smaller tasks more often!

That sounder thing is not OEM, never seen it. Sounds plausible that maybe someone wanted to hear the indicators better and had that fitted? Any switch will do, the differences are dependent on year. The flash type is early (hence I prefer it) the standard looking hazard symbol was 72+ and then in 73 they got the pull out type which lights up via optical fibre cable.

Hey Alan, Thanks for dropping off those grille slats today, you must have just missed me, I was working from home but went out for a late lunch and took the dog for a walk. Thanks again!

That's HS30 00409. You can see a before photo in the early girl bingo thread.

HS30 00971 has been under my nose for over 17 years! My dad had a collection of old car magazines I acquired many many years ago now. I got rid of a lot of them, except the ones that contained S30Z's. Anyway1 magazine from 1985 had this UK specification 240z in it. Which I always thought looked great with the D caps on it. It's been a bit of a celebrity in many publications over the years. It now lives in Ireland. https://photos.app.goo.gl/QpNJ3iv0UKjL7j0a2

Ironically I created an entirely new section for quick Q&A and already we're using it wrong. But the author of a post can select the best answer and mark it as solved. See example attached image.

The corner was oxy welded in, only really possible because I had separated the frame and skin and was able to hammer and dolly from both sides. If you don't have access to the rear then Mig might be your only option. The advantage of Oxy is that the weld is not hard like with a MIG so you can hammer and dolly it after welding to dress it up and then only require a very light skim of filler.

Yeah I also really like black.... http://www.classiczcars.com/gallery/image/31837-s20-in-s30/?imageSize=medium And even the off-grey colour that Alan did here.... http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/236658-1969-nissan-s20-twin-cam-engine-rebuild-6.html But like I say this was a bit of a test to see how it turned out, I just realised I didn't apply any kind of primer to mine, not sure if that's a bit deal or not though? Might help make it more durable I suppose? So we shall see how it holds up and if need be maybe I'll strip it again and do another colour?

Well... this valve cover has a bit of history alright. It was on my 260z 2+2 (which had a P90 head). These are quite hard to find and I refer to them as the "BIG NISSAN" covers. You can tell the difference between the big and small version because the N at the end just goes past the spark plug bracket holder, where as the smaller version N on the end finishes before the bracket! Example small version - recently sold this cover. Anyway I've had the larger version in storage for many many years now and always intended to do something with it, just wasn't sure what? Polish it? Chrome it? Powder Coat it? Water jet blast? Wrinkle Finish? Red? Black? I bought a can of VHT wrinkle red over a year ago and because the valve cover was greasy and needed a clean I sort of put off trying it. I was going to take it to water jet blast it, then decided well.. if this wrinkle red looks like dogs bollocks. I'll just get it blasted off anyway, so may as well try it and seeing this video here also gave me a bit of motivation. So this evening I cleaned under the baffle piece inside the cover, removed the old adhesive (had to chip it off with a chisel then sand it off and use a razor blade) PITA! That's why I wanted to blast it and save myself the grief, but nevermind.. So once it was clean, I water blasted it with my gurni (hose etc..) and then wax/grease remover over the top to give it a clean finish. This is what it looked like once it was prepped. I taped up the oil cap area, spark plug mounting bracket points and tried to cover the valve cover bolt areas (this didn't work as well as I'd hoped), If doing again I'd probably find suitable size washers and place them there, but instead I put the bolts back in with tape over the heads..which didn't quite leave a perfect circle with no paint. Not to worry though as you won't see this when the bolts are installed anyway I suppose.. The stuff comes out quick thick, so here is what it looked like after the first coat. As you can see coverage is good. After coat #2. After coat #3 (and a half ). So after this, I got a bit confused by the instructions on the rear, it said allow to air dry, but it also said to bake in an oven or similar to get the wrinkles to come out. I have a heat gun, so I wasn't sure if I should wait for it to try or start with the heat gun right away. I let it dry for about 10-15 mins after the last coat. Then decided to gently use the heat gun from a distance and see what will happen (on the rear of the cover)... The lighting in the garage is poor at night, but I could see the wrinkle start to come up. I was careful to move around the cover and apply heat as evenly as possible. But it is a bit exciting when you see the wrinkle finish start to come up. I removed the tape to expose the areas I masked to get an idea of what the raw alloy would look like. I must say so far I quite like it, I plan to remove the wrinkle finish from the border lines around the "NISSAN" embossed section, but will wait until the paint has had more of a chance to set over night (24-48 hours) and then use a razor blade or sand paper etc.. It probably would have paid dividends to get a dremmel tool first and polish up the letters etc.. before painting, but as this was kind of my first attempt I just wanted to give it a go and see how it would turn out. I'm still up in the air about the finish of red, I've seen some LY powered engines with red wrinkle covers. But I've also seen them with a black finish... Here is another (small NISSAN cover) I found on the web, done in black wrinkle. and here is a red 1 I saw someone else had done. Then of course I'm not sure which car to fit it on? The red 240z in Melbourne? Or the Safari Gold car? I quite like the contrast of the red cover in a Safari Gold car engine bay. I guess I can always swap them around, I'm still trying to locate a NISSAN 2400 OHC cover (early style cover) for this car, because although it wasn't fitted from factory I just like the look and think it jells quite well with an early 240z.

I personally would be careful using MIG on a panel like the bonnet, it's a very long skin and so distortion is easy. Oxy or TIG would be better - although I can't use TIG yet myself, but from what I can see it seems you have far more control over the heat. I think the shrinking discs are good for smaller high spots if used very conservatively (not too much heat), the problem for my bonnet is that the metal has already been work hardened. Before I stripped it down it had already had someone messing with it and so the metal has been stretched, shrunk several times and that's hardened the metal to the point where parts of it just won't budge the same as a fresh skin would have. So it created more work than it reduced. I didn't intend to spend this long on the bonnet, I actually thought I would finish it quickly and move on, but I made several mistakes, and fixing rust is 1 thing, but accident damage is another altogether. Oxy or LPG torch doesn't matter for heat shrinking. I ended up buying another bonnet out of sheer frustration but told myself I'd at least see this bonnet to completion and see how it turns out. I may use it on my other 240z, but haven't decided for sure yet. Still waiting to see if this other bonnet I bought fits well or not (I think it's a NOS part, but could be a reproduction also!).

It's an OEM part, and please upload images rather than reference photobucket hosted stuff.. That's how the whole thread broke in the first place.

Scottish S30Z enthusiast. https://www.facebook.com/classiczregister/videos/10151638522906770/

Bit of a freudian slip..