alex_260z

The other bonus is that they're readily available at speed shops. Also, forgot to note that they work well on points distributors too. We fitted one to a Toyota Crown points distributor using a 1k pull up resistor between the points and the coil +12v as a trigger source. Provides a stronger spark via EI coil and reduces wear on points/carbon build up as they're no longer responsible for directly completing the ignition circuit.

My "reconditioned" 280ZX distributor decided to die on me not long ago. Replaced the matchbox ignition module with a GM HEI module. Removing the matchbox there was a red and green wire from the pickup. These were connected to the ignition module. Wiring is as follows: On HEI Module W - Red pickup wire G - Green pickup wire C- Coil Negative B- Battery positive Module ground - Chassis ground Using a non-conductive heat paste may cause issues as the metal plate on the HEI module is ground. Cut up an old amplifier heat sink and cleaned it up on the mill. I attached the heatsink to the distributor via the matchbox mount screws. Heatsink was also kept bare where it meets the module as the paint acts as an insulator. Could be a bit tidier, but have been running this for a few months and hasn't caused me any issues.

Another idea I had but did not attempt was to take a small diameter round airbox, cut it in half and copy the indentations by bending up a new centre section that elongates it. Would probably have a more factory looking appearance to it. Only issue is that it would have to be relatively tall to fit the velocity stacks without restricting airflow.

Used speed nuts across top, sides and bottom and then a screws through them. Bit tricky to do up the bottom side. I would probably recommend using some sort of clip arrangement instead though to make it easier to remove. Bent up a piece of pipe the same diameter as the breather and welded to the top of the box to plumb the crankcase and keep it as legal as possible.

A few pics of the box setup. Made up using a sheet of cold roll steel ($20) + engine enamel ($10) +cost of mig wire/gas

After a spending countless hours tuning and tweaking the EFI setup the ECU decided to die on me as far as I can tell(stuck in a reboot loop). Decided to take the easier path and go with a triple carb setup. I purchased a Kameari manifold and linkage kit from rhdjapan and solex addhe's off an alfa via eBay. For the fuel setup I have ordered the Nismo high flow pump 17010-A7601 which mounts up to the original cradle. Installing the manifold I did have some issues with it interfering with my thermostat housing which required a bit of trimming to resolve the clearance issues. Purchased a set of velocity stacks of AliExpress for $70 which turned out to be of awful quality in terms of plating. I managed to obtain a partial refund so it doesn't really bother me as it will all be sitting within an airbox. I also purchased ball style throttle levers to match the manifold's linkages. These ended up being for the wrong side of the carburettor so the components will need to be drilled out and welded to the opposite side of the plates. The airbox will likely mock the s20 style with the filter being remote in the 280z usdm airbox. A box will be fabricated that encloses the velocity stacks runs air through the filter at the front of the car

Hi PB, sorry for delay in replying. I found it is the same as the z31 300zx part no a345. Got it for $12.50 from Supercheap's part finder online, but in store it's around $45 for some reason. Alex

Been a bit of time since last update. A lot of work done to get the car in a roadworthy state for All Japan Day in Adelaide over the weekend. Made some changes to the EFI setup again and ended up going with an 83 280ZXT Optical distributor. Using this setup I managed to get a much cleaner signal than I was previously getting with the trigger wheel. This also required that I purchase a 280ZXT oil pump spindle to match the dizzy. I did see some mention on a very old post that the end of the dizzy could be pressed out and swapped to suit the old style spindle but this is not the case. Only the outer shell separates from the dizzy when pressing out the roll pin. Installed a VT commodore idle control stepper valve using a proflow idle block. This allows you to use 2x AN fittings to run flexible hose between the intake manifold and the intake pipe Made up a 2.25 exhaust setup using a magnaflow muffler and one of the spiral baffled resonators off eBay. Can say that this style of resonator makes a massive difference in comparison to the subaru standard resonator I previously was using. The setup isn't too loud (definately below SA limit of 96db) but will definately be installing some sound deadening/underlay material beneath the carpet to try and reduce cabin noise as much as possible. Car as it sits at the moment Still a bit of work to go. -Currently doesnt have a boot seal and the fumes in cabin are pretty unbearable so have ordered that off eBay. -Will be retrimming the seats using covers I bought from Interior Innovations in US. I also found a cheap source for injection moulded foam inserts via Summit Racing.Will dig up the part number when I get around to buying them. -Needs a few pieces of carpet cut -Further tuning. Have used ignition table and AFR from posts I have seen on HybridZ which seem to run reasonable enough. Will need to do some research into tuning theory to better understand what I am doing first. -Install central locking immobilizer etc -Tidy up the engine bay wiring and remove redundant wiring from previous trigger setups. Maybe later on down the track will change out dizzy cap and trigger wheel to DIY auto tune wheel so that I can run a coil on plug setup.

Also managed to fit the 280z air box to the engine bay. Some minor trimming of the rad support was required to sit it in the same place. The two required holes required to mount the box are pre-drilled but covered by an alternative panel. It was simply a case of drilling the hole put completely. Then a nutsert was used in each of the holes. Photos of it fitted

For something that only cost a few dollars, it turned out a lot better than I expected. Have been playing around with drawing a few bits I'm missing, so that I can 3D print them. So far have made up a base for the fender mirrors, started on a pillar badge and have also made a speaker grill. Links for anyone interested in grabbing a copy to modify or print. Mirror base for C10 mirrors. EBay thinks it should suit 240z/260z https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1836873 Speaker grill for 260Z 2+2 https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1836822 Pillar badge, haven't yet put a logo in the centre and a few features that differ slightly. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1836840

Thanks Alan Managed to find this 280z airbox from the US via eBay which will be used in place of the pod filter to keep things tidier. Postage was a little pricey but a few can be found around the $150 mark Inc postage. Painting more front end panels

Experimented with nickel plating some of the brackets and small bits in the engine bay. Finish came out reasonably well but could do with some better prep. Cut a coke bottle in half and filled it with a vinegar/salt solution. Used an old PC power supply to get a 5v DC source. Then connected some nickel strips I bought off eBay for a dollar or so to the positive end. The part was connected to the negative and left for a few hours. Some of the results:

Made some minor progress over the past few months as have been busy with fixing my Brumby. Had trouble with mounting the trigger wheel in a way that it wouldn't jump out of balance. Solved this by using an l24e crank pulley as it has a very larger back face. I chucked the trigger wheel in my desktop scanner and scaled the image to the same diameter of the pulley face. Then printed this out and cut the shape of the wheel out to leave the teeth. This template was then glued lightly to the back face of the pulley and painted over with a rattle can. This left the pattern of which I needed to cut out. Using both a grinder and dremel each tooth was cut out leaving me with a single piece pulley and trigger wheel. Also scored what appear to be c10 skyline mirrors from a swap meet for $20. At least looks closer to original than the eBay set. Other than that, have just been preparing the front panels for paint

Thanks for the offer, not sure I trust my craftsmanship enough to do it for someone else but I'm more than happy to help you out with any advice or questions you have if you attempt this yourself. Thanks AK, I might do the same with the main pivot point as well. I hadnt thought of using a bolt, as the screw arrangement seems a bit flimsy

Another point to add. If you purchase these mirrors you can put in a complaint on eBay, asking for a partial refund. Saved myself $20 to put toward buying the bullet mirrors for parts.