gav240z

Not really sure it matters with L28s. What parts are you ordering?

For my own reference, seems there is a few db optimisations I could make. https://invisioncommunity.com/4guides/advanced-options/server-management/improving-performance-r352/

Hi Folks, I had noticed performance was slow, I've upgraded the version of PHP the server runs, made some changes to caching and increased memory and upload limits on the server also. Also updated the Forum software to the latest release. It feels a bit quicker again to me, just looking for feedback from your end? Good? Better? Same? What's a PHP? Cheers, Gavin.

I believe earlier switches may have been a bit different to later ones. I think you beat me to buying that 1 on Gumtree a couple of days ago? Good price for NOS around $500? If you decide to sell the old switch let me know? I have rebuilt them before.

If it is an early set of SUs with the float chamber visible, you can remove the breather hose that goes to the airbox and use that to fill it with fresh fuel (as a primer) so you don't have to crank it for ages to get fuel into them. I use the little cup you fill water into an Iron for the steamer (perfect size) and has a little tip to guide the fuel in nicely (don't tell the missus :)). Half the challenge in starting these cars is priming the fuel, if the plugs are ok and you have compression it should run. Takes a fair bit to kill an L-series motor and if the motor freely turns that's probably a good indication it will run. If you have a photo of the carbs that will help. 260z ones are flat top dashpots, early (or most British ones adapted to Z's) are round tops.

I was waiting for him to start biffing people and clobbering them with items like in Mario Kart.

I'm always amazed at the shoddy panel repair work on these cars. Will you need to unpick the roof to get to the rust in the hinge area?

I take it that the lack of image means there wasn't nothing left to photograph?

This is next level. https://fb.watch/bAmFaHrdh0/

I am looking forward to the results achieved from this project.

Well priced 260z 2 seater. 1975 Datsun 260Z SPORTS Manual Coupe $55,000 https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/1290533347

260z 2+2 Starting bid: AU $39,000.00 https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/194829364564

Hang onto your Mikuni 44s folks.. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/complete-mikuni-44phh-triple-carb-setup/ SOLD FOR $6,666 USD ON 2/14/22 Approx. $9,344.47 AUD. Don't forget import duties such as GST and shipping on top!

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/howard-springs/cars-vans-utes/datsun-26z-2-2/1290296300

Yes and no.. 240z Hitachi (Round Tops) are easier to obtain part for and more simplistic, but they always seem to have a compromise between selecting the right needle (fuel jetting) for idle and top end (the right mixture at higher rpms, tends to create a fat/rich idle). The 260z Hitachi (Flat Tops) were designed with emissions requirements in mind, but also had the benefit of a separate idle circuit, so you could adjust idle mixtures separately to engine speed mixtures. The problem with these is obtaining parts and dealing with all the comments of "boat anchors" from those who have parroted this information for years. Refer to Gordon Dobbie's comments here: and XNKE

Haha, my fault I directed people here. I still revisit this thread from time to time. It's a good methodical approach to L-series modification.

Thanks, I was looking at those as an option to control ignition but retain my Triples.

Interested in your CAS set up and more detailed photos of your engine bay. 450hp is a respectable result - given the work done so far.

I bought 3, haven't fitted yet. Any suggestions on adhesive to use?

Haven't updated here in a while, but another item I've wanted for 20+ years now is a set of Watanabe RS Wheels. I found 3x 15x8+0 wheels on the Gold Coast. At a fair price, but still need to ship them down and either buy another pair from Watanabe or if they sell a single wheel buy that to match. The 4th was destroyed on a bad pot hole not long after the last owner bought them, so tyres have like 2,000 KMS on them. I'm not a fan of the polished alloy look of them, so they will need to be gunmetal / magnesium colour - which is just the perfect colour for them IMHO. Plan is to fit them to the red 240z and I will move the Superlites on it to my white 240z to help get that car roadworthy. And that way I can take my time restoring the rare Fuji Auto Cobras on it (which I might restore and change to 15x8 also - if feasible). I am curious to weigh the difference between the Superlites and the Watanabes. Will report back when I do. It will be strange to see the car with different wheels after all these years too. I bought the car late in 2002. So it is literally 20 years of ownership this year. I also started dating my now wife at the same time. And it's nice to see some continuity over the years of photos I've accumulated with it. But I enjoy checking off bucket list parts for my cars and this is a purchase I probably put off for too long!

Nice, how hard are the Subaru R180 LSD's to find these days? Good to see Kameari offering simple hub adaptors. I'd like to find a Subaru R180 LSD in 4.11 gearing.

Might be of use: https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/57709-series-i-antenna/ https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/56112-harada-power-antenna-teardown-guidance/

I haven't tried it on under body components like suspension etc.. but I reckon KYB Rust Seal via a paint gun would be pretty durable. https://www.kbs-coatings.com.au/product/chassis-coater-kit/ I used it inside the rear hatch when I was repairing it, and I had to do ongoing panel work to the panel after and after beating it with a hammer quite a lot, the coating hardly stuck to the metal pretty well. I painted it on, but you can spray it on. I just haven't tried it yet myself.

S30 World supplies fuel tanks. https://s30.world/fuel-tanks

You can buy reproduction tanks now too, so I'd look at doing that and may end up doing that at some stage. We improved the tank a lot but it isn't perfectly dent free.