1600dave

For sale - one set of Hastings Chrome piston rings to suit .50mm oversize L28 pistons. Full specs - 86.50 bore, top ring 1.5mm, second ring 2mm, oil ring 4mm. Some L28 take a 2mm top ring.I believe (but could be wrong) that the 1.5mm rings suit flat top L28 pistons but don't take my word for it. Purchased via reseller last week from Precision International, their part number is RS1500020CR6H and retail is $112 plus postage (and they are now out of stock, seems like I got the last set). Sell for $90 including postage in Australia. Save me the hassle of returing them (and arguments over who ordered / supplied the wrong rings), get in quick before I change my mind and try to send them back !

They've always fetched decent money, although that's getting up there. Tempting to drag mine down out of the shed roof and cash in........

Public service announcement - if anyone ends up grabbing it and doesn't want / need the external cam oiling setup, I'd gladly take it off your hands as a "spottter fee" EDIT: I suck at linking, its $50 ,pickup from Melbourne, on the Nissan Datsun Classifieds Australia facebook group

Don't get me wrong, for the right price (and if I had room for it), I'd give it a crack. But then I like tinkering away in the shed for many years without seeing any real results......

"A lot of what you see is virtually superficial surface rust".............

It’s actually a good chance to be able to do a ‘track walk’ of an evening, without all the usual sightseers driving around aimlessly. so you can actually walk the racing line without worrying about being mowed down. I think you get a better feel for the whole circuit on foot. A group of us did it first event with an experienced racer pointing out lines, tips and tricks, etc. I found walking it a much better experience than just trundling around in a car at 60k’s

Not an L28, just a little L18. Old engine, pretty much worn out after 20 years (stock bottom end, unknown mild cam, minor head work and 38mm SU's) - 69hp at the rear wheels Same engine carefully rebuilt with 87mm flattops, bit more head work, 72 degree cam and 1 3/4" SU's - 102 hp at the wheels. No, its not the most powerful engine around, but the difference pre and post rebuild was considerable. I rebuilt it myself, total cost of all parts and machining was well under $2K for that extra 33hp. Would the next 33hp gain be just as cheap ? I doubt it....

http://musclecargt.com/index/indexpage/0

They're just re-sellers of parts out of the same Taiwanese factory as the Muscle Car Parts stuff, and seem to be generally more expensive - eg Muscle Car Parts sells 1600 rear 1/4's for AU$650, they are selling the exact same bits for US$632 (I assume the prices are in US$ ?), 240Z bonnets from MCP are AU$1250, they have them for US$1100

As was my brother's 2 seater 260Z, until I painted it Toyota Red Mica.....

Me three.

Not sure if urban myth or not, but I read somewhere that Gerry Crown in the P76 had to get his navigator to drive some sections of a previous Peking to Paris as the Chinese govt deemed him too old to drive.

Auto or manual ? Rust in both doors, or just the one pictured ?

They will be 1 3/4" british HS6 SU's. Definitely genuine british SU's, and 4 bolt mounting means they aren't 1 1/2" HS4's (they only have two mounting holes set diagonally). You can mount the 1 3/4" SU's to the standard SSS manifold (if you're using that for your L20B) by only using two of the four holes in the HS6 carbs. Needs a lot of work with die grinder to open the ports up in the manifold though (see pic). Can also get a Lynx manifold that is made for the bigger carbs on a 4 cylinder L-series.

SU Midel in Sydney sell a huge range of SU needles, about $10 each last time I got some. You won't get stock 240Z needles from SU Midel (or any SU carb shop) as 240Z carbs aren't "real" SU's - you would have to get genuine Nissan if they are still available. Otherwise, you'll have to work out what the needles in the zed "Hitachi copies of SU's" equate to in the "genuine british SU" needle range.