gav240z

https://insider.hagerty.com/trends/there-may-be-a-new-world-record-classic-car-sale/ Still seeing records being set.

The gearbox felt solid, only complaint I had was the position of the gear lever felt off centre (down and to the left) and so felt a bit weird to operate compared to a regular L-engine gearbox. Not sure if the lever is bent or it's just the way it sits in the car. But made it kind of difficult to know what gear I was in and moving to. I recall in the 90s everyone was using the Supra gearboxes in engine swaps since they were meant to be a strong box. My guess is that it's an MA70 Supra box (R154). It's actually W58 confirmed below (they look very similar).

Don't worry, we have plenty of space, stored on Amazon Cloud, so it's not previously when I had to increase disk space on the server, Amazon scales well and cost is very modest.

The first rule of Viczcar Club is... No wait wrong film.

Best part is, being a late 260z the engine number is not on the ID plate in the engine bay. It just says type "L26" so you could swap an L-series back in and it would be "original" again. But the V8 is kind of fun, if you plan to tow a small boat in future.

Yeah I was joking more than serious. Carry on.

Every time I see another project thread, I think I'm gonna need a bigger server to handle all the inbound images.

Gearbox ratios. https://web.archive.org/web/20041210214850/http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/ratios.gif Common Problems https://web.archive.org/web/20010803190743/http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/zprobs.html Engine heads https://web.archive.org/web/20011206114942/http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/heads.html Engine building https://web.archive.org/web/20011207170604/http://geocities.com/zgarage2001/rebuild.html Maybe? Not sure haven't really tested the archive.org site on Mobile much. Perhaps I should try and turn the site into a PDF file for future archiving purposes?

A grind was used in a 240z, C grind was more for the 260c sedan's etc.. but honestly it makes little difference. Maybe get a regrind?

Is it definitely weak spark? How is compression? Getting fuel ok? It's fuel injected right?

I think $42k and may have passed in.

https://www.instagram.com/reel/CWpNHpTl4-0/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y= This is a new recast L6 head that will apparently flow really well and address some of the original head design flaws, in terms of combustion chamber shape, coolant gallery flow and port design. Price is about $6-7k I believe but you'd spend that + more on porting and prepping an old head anyway. I believe it's run an 11 second 1/4 mile on its first outing.

I've split this thread. For the discussion on values of modified vs original, refer to new thread.

Hi guys, I've split these posts into a new topic to keep the for sale thread, a for sale thread. Otherwise feel free to continue. FWIW, I found the RB26 feels very similar to the L-series motor in terms of being a straight 6 and the overall sound/feel. So I think it's a good swap option. I personally think an RB25NEO (w/26 covers let's be honest 25 covers look crap), and a high flow OP6 turbo and Nistune ECU would be really a really economical option that would easily make 350-400hp and in a Z would be plenty fast. If there is 1 thing I think is required in a an S30Z these days it's aircon and most 240z's didn't come equipped with that originally (some home market cars had it) but many are later dealer options, but I want to drive my classic and be comfortable too. With the way our summers are these days I think although aircon adds to the clutter of an engine bay it's worth having.

The problem is not so much in the modifying, but the tasteful way to modify. I think the right modification can actually enhance the value of a classic car, but you need to be deep in that community to really know what is desirable / appreciated. That's why so many TV shows that do Resto mods often make a dog's breakfast of it, they haven't spent enough time with hardcore enthusiasts to really understand what mods are desired and fully appreciated. And I'm afraid, many people (not all) who modify cars tend to have questionable taste more often than not. And I'll say my taste is probably not everyone's taste, but that's the problem we all think we know what's cool, and not everyone agrees. I personally think the 240ZG is a great look on these cars, but many (Philistines I call em') don't like the look. So yeah, original is a safe bet and for those who dare, modified can command good money, so long as you don't stray too far from the overall theme and what makes the original car desirable. Example of modifications, which may enhance desirability of the car. https://jdmlegends.com/products/1973-datsun-240z

I think this is why I have 4 240z's to be honest. I like originality, but I also like period correct modifications and some improvements to make the cars a bit more fun. The older I get, the more I appreciate them the way they are or were made. I do like an RB swap (26) in concept, but I feel the chassis isn't really up to the task and to me it's a bit of a mismatch when you consider the Rb26 was AWD in a GTR. I feel like 250hp in a Z is plenty of fun and can be achieved via the L-series engine. Engine swaps always date the car to an era and the RB motors are old hat now. The only engine swap in an S30Z that really appeals to me is the S20 motor, but they are now worth an absolute fortune and out of reach. I almost think I'd be better off doing a tribute 432-R with an O.S Giken Twin Cam head on an L-block W/Triple 50mm Solex on it. Price would probably come in, under what an S20 build would cost these days and has nearly equal allure (specialness about it) The other build that appeals to me is an L28 with HKS surge tank and turbo charged for that 80s era Wangan racer vibe, but fuel injected (and aesthetic wise, using throttle bodies that give the blow thru carb turbo look). But if I was to do a swap I'd try to ensure everything could be reversed later should I wish to revert to standard. Finding good original cars is really getting difficult and as time goes by the OEM parts are actually becoming increasingly expensive. AM radios, early ash trays, antennas, hub caps, steel wheels, early style valve covers etc.. all drug money now. I really do think if you're looking long term original is the way to go. But that doesn't mean you can't make the car fun also. For example I love Triple carbs on these cars and find SUs a bit pedestrian. But swapping between them isn't a big deal. On my 71 which runs an auto box, I'll keep the SUs and I'm thinking I'll keep the original points distributor but swap the points for a pickup style ignition (like Pertronix) and keep the vacuum advance set up. Where as on my 72 with Triples I haven't got vacuum advance, run an electronic dizzy and will probably add in a CDI box at some point, that car will also get things like LSD, 4.1 ratio rear end, MK63 calipers, Watanabe wheels (or MSpeed Work Rally Mag Replicas) and has Ikeda Bussan Seats, Rally Clock and Datsun Compe wheel. All period correct mods and updates and I find that car a lot more fun and lively to drive, but also less civil, fumey and noisy. Each car has its own personality and character, but that's what's fun about them. Regarding the value of old L engines, I think you'll be surprised in future, I'm seeing less and less available these days and already in Japan I'm seeing pretty high prices for basic blocks. What used to be $200 long motors is now $5k-$6k engines. I think that will eventually ripple through here and in other markets. Nissan used the L-engine for years and in many cars which is good, but try find them now. Only a handful for sale at any given time (if lucky).

I tend to agree the calibre of cars on the market is really a lot of cars that still need restoration work done with unknown issues below their aged paint jobs. I haven't seen a properly restored car for sale in a while now to really gauge the market for them. I've seen a lot of early restored rotary's like R100, RX-2, RX-3 asking above $150k in the last year though and seemingly selling..

Hi folks, About 20 odd years ago I recall reading this website on Geocities which is now defunct and hasn't been available for some time. It contained great information about modifications you could do to your S30Z. I recently found someone had copy/pasted it onto another site. The images are missing unfortunately, but the content still relevant. https://www.zdriver.com/forums/240z-280zxt-s30-s130-tech-tips-275/performance-modification-tips-20075/ The original site was available here: http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html Using the site Archive.org : https://web.archive.org/ you can actually find snapshots of the content from back then. Which may or may not have indexed the images to go with the content. Here's a snapshot from December 2001 as an example. https://web.archive.org/web/20011207172150/http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/engine.html And homepage: https://web.archive.org/web/20011108221229/http://www.geocities.com/zgarage2001/z.html

Pretty sure it's a scam.

I saw this site posted on FB recently. https://more-drive.jp/parts/ Looks like they have some nice parts that utilise RB components such as CAS, Throttles etc.. so you can run them on an L-series. Good for F.I conversions etc.. Also looks like they can build / supply O.S Giken engines. They also resell the JMC recast L-engine head.

I was just reading this. https://www.hagerty.com/media/maintenance-and-tech/looking-for-answers-about-mechanical-ignition-check-out-this-faq/ Bottom has tips on troubleshooting. Which you may find useful.

I did similar when re-plating some parts. https://photos.app.goo.gl/B8E62g14Ev1nJ2cY9

Do you have the old coil still? Might be worth substituting another coil in to see how that impacts spark? Otherwise check grounding points for corrosion potentially? I don't think it's the Mitsubishi distributor itself because usually when the HEI (high energy ignition) module goes bad it stops working. It doesn't produce weak spark.

https://www.hagerty.com/media/market-trends/hagerty-insider/why-japanese-car-parts-are-getting-harder-and-pricier-to-source/ Worth a read. Although nothing we S30Z owners didn't already know.

When you say you have weak spark, what are the symptoms of what you're experiencing with the car? Is it misfiring? Fouling plugs? Or something else?