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Came across this youtube gem thought I would post it up for all to enjoy

Featuring our very own @gav240z

After the BBQ, Les Collins Racing was able to squeeze me in for a look over and maybe a quick tune up. I was able to sit (stand) through the whole process as Josh went through balancing, changing the floats and we changed over the main jets a couple of times. The initial bench jetting (based of Les' recommendations) was close, but in the process of getting the Z driveable, another mechanic had gone to rich on the mains to combat the float levels being out. Lambda sensor attached, we went for a few drives trying to iron out the lean spitting down low, and sorted out the richness up top. Les jumped in for the final adjustments, changing the idle jets a couple of times and got it as close to perfect as possible. One of the downsides to OERs is sometimes they can be a bit lean on very slight throttle. Further modifications to the carbies will be needed, but that will be for another time and perhaps when we change from the HM style headers to the SWM headers. Aside from the above, Les/Josh didnt comment on the difference between them. Main positive is that the OER carbs I ordered are set up with Weber Jets, which makes tuning easier if you carry as many spares as LCR do. The downsides to Mikuni's these days is availability of spares, and some hardware are just complete odd ball sizes. And now for the first video after tune, as Les calls it: "An angry L28" *Note: this engine was NOT built/refurbed by Les Collins Racing, only the carbs were tuned there

Some more making parts look nice: *mechanical fuel pump to be removed

Hey lads, hope everyone’s been well! It’s been a good two years since my last post. Unfortunately, a family health situation changed my plans, but praise God everything is well now and life is getting back to normal. I had Andrew from Motorsport Solutions in Castle Hill sort out all the braided lines, fuel lines, turbo lines basically, lines, lines, and more lines! His workmanship was top notch. It was a bit costly, but looking at the quality, I’m glad I had him on the job. The car’s finally out of its garage hibernation and off to the mechanic to finish up all the nitty gritty bits that my big fingers would probably break anyway (and I’d end up sending it out regardless haha) There’s a long list I handed to the workshop, and they’ve been progressing smoothly. I’ve had to order a heap of parts 180amp alternator, starter motor, PRP timing kit, PRP pulleys, ATI Super Damper, timing belts, and more. Thought I didn’t need much… definitely wrong there! Still on the list: I need to order the tailshaft, sort out the Hypertune intake, drive-by-wire full kit for the RB26 ITB setup, and track down a 370Z pedal. Also need to grab a flex sensor and a few other bits, these parts never end! Anyway, it’s going to be an awesome journey getting this 240Z over the line and on the road. Cars is very dusty and needs a massive detail when done. Until the next post, enjoy your weekend, everyone! VID-20250619-WA0037.mp4 VID-20250619-WA0036.mp4 VID-20250619-WA0035.mp4

Update time! In 2025 Daniel contacted me saying he's like to continue with the restoration of his 260Z, so in October '25 we extracted it from storage. As we'd already done the body shell, the panels needed attention next. On inspection the hatch frame was beyond economical repair, so I ordered a new one. I had the bonnet blasted and as expected that was damaged and rusty around the perimeter, so a new non-vented one was also ordered. Front guards were typically rusty at the bottom where they bolt to the sill, but the rest of the was ok. Se we set about removing the rear brace and repairing them bottoms of them: And the inner braces on both were reconstructed at the bottom: With the guard repairs complete, we turned our attention to the doors. This wasn't going to be easy... Later 260Z doors are different to 240Z, and 260Z door shells can't be bought new currently, so our only option was to repair them. We removed the skins (one had been replaced with a rare spares skin already) as they were both had rust at the bottom. The shells were pretty bad - espically the right door. The hinge mounting was gone, so we removed the inner reinforment and fabricated a new patch then welded it in. With the repairs to both doors done, the guards repaired I sent everything off to my media blaster so all the paint & surface rust could be removed...

Time to start putting everything back in, I have to say, I am very glad we decided to zinc plate the hardware and paint the block and anything else that needed painting. Next post, the engine and gearbox will be installed in the bay

It's on again! Date: Sunday 7th December 2025. Time: 11am Onwards. Location: Same as previous years, Gordon and Sharon's property in the outer East near Lilydale. Please prey for dry weather! PM me or @Gordo for the address if you haven't been before. Bring your Zed, food and Drink and a chair. The wood fired BBQ will be provided. Bring your Wives , partners and kids. All welcome!

Great to see everyone, perfect weather and mint cars. Once again big thinks to team Gordo for hosting.

Joe you kept my motivation going, thanks. Update: I set the "Fun" level to 10. I bought a flaring tool. From EFI Solutions I bought: steel 3/16 brake line and stainless brake tube nuts (M10x1.0mm) so an ape like me can't strip them again. I've had a crack at double flares and finally got them tight enough to sit nicely against the nuts - I guess until I pressurise them I won't know if I did a good or a bad job. It's not like I'd have to undo the whole thing if they were bad....oh... The brake juice had stripped all the paint off my rails so whilst I had parts removed and some access...first attempt at rust converter last night, it's a mess. Then some primer later today straight over it. What could POSSIBLY go wrong? (/sarcasm) Anyone feel free to correct me if I am off course. Next: primer, then rattle can of VGPaint 306, then tape it all up ready for more leaks, then bend the brake lines into shape, test fit, redo it x10, then bleed brakes.

Sounds like it wasnt put back together too well. Was it honed or sleeved? Was a new rubber seal kit installed? It will be the rear rubber seal inside the master around the pushrod that is leaking. Master needs to come back off to fix it. Hope this helps. Please keep us updated as to your progress. <Edit> The seal/s in question are not around the pushrod; I wasnt thinking straight when I typed the reply. The seal around the pushrod at the rear is a dust boot, the seals that would be leaking are inside the bore of the master cylinder.

Here we go again...

C.A.R. doesnt find cars...cars find C.A.R.

With the repairs complete, we spent a week or so making the panels fit nicely adjusting the panel gaps to 5mm. The body was then scuffed with 240g and given a fresh coat of 2k Epoxy. After this it went off the to paint shop!

Yes, Chris from S30 World was in Australia a couple of weeks ago, we took him to see Les Collins and he got to meet a couple of members here. He was only in for a quick stop over, so planning wasn't the best, but the 432 was a project he took on late last year and was something we discussed in Japan with both @HS30-H and Kats helping contribute to sourcing some of the original missing parts. It should be an excellent restoration and the owner seems to be quite comfortable with what S30 World are going to do. Be good to see one done right!

Are you blind?

LH is indeed incorrect. Can yo see evidence of it being modified? Did you ask your RW inspector why does it matter? As long as no part of the hose assembly is touching anything, it's performing the same function. There's no need to change the strut. No. That's not correct. There is no such shim for that purpose - perhaps clarify with him what he means. What 'I think' he's talking about the anti-rattle shim that goes between the brake pad & the caliper piston. They do go missing, but are easy enough to obtain through someone like Stewart Wilkins at SW Motorsport. RW Inspectors are a strange breed - they almost always focus on some obscure issue, while missing something else obvious...

And finally... And on the 28th of December 2025, I borrowed a mates enclosed trainer, loaded the 240Z up, drove to Sydney and personally delivered to Tony the mother of all birthday presents: 4 years (with 6 - 8 month break in the middle). 1682 Hours (lots not accounted for). Lots of lessons learnt. One VERY happy owner of 240Z HS30-00211 Would I take on a project like this again? You bet I would.

Hi Folks, There was an issue with the forum recently, I am in the process of troubleshooting it. Looks like a post update issue with a template file and a custom 'hook' call was causing it to break the template code for the page. I've just cleared all caches and made a few small changes as part of debugging. It looks to be working again, although I cannot exact explain what change I made that resolved it. Perhaps a combination of clearing old template files and forcing them to be regenerated fixed the issue? Hard to say for sure, but let me know if you still have issues going forward? I can raise an issue with the IPS support team to have a look. Our current hosting environment may need to undergo some changes to meet requirements of the newer version that will be pushed out soon. So I may need to do some ongoing updates/changes in due course.

@C.A.R. @gav240z You were right, it was the valve stem seals - you guys rock! Last week I got booked in with Richard at Allcraft and he's worked his magic on it, she's up and running again. It took a lot of work. Shout out to him and Lou Mondello - Allcraft Automotive 23 Wren Rd, Moorabbin VIC 3189 (03) 9532 2919 When I asked him what we should work on next to get it past RWC he rolled his eyes and said "where do I start....?!" Yeah. Enough said. It's a restoration! I'm sourcing an airbox for the twin SUs then he can dial it in on the dyno...she might even make 3rwhp! Right....back to admiring Nedz ride.

And now the crown jewels, the triple OER45s on the Kameari Harada manifold:

Engine & gearbox in: Engine bay wiring harness off to the auto elec From this: To this:

We're not that old, first thing to do would be confirm where the oil burning is coming from, if the motor has sat a long time, it may simply be dried out valve stem seals leaking oil from the top end of the motor into the combustion chamber. Replacing those may fix your oil burning issues. Otherwise it will be bottom end oil control rings. But it's worth a shot, since I had that issue years ago and replaced the seals and it was fine after.

Big thread bump from 2010, but I managed to meet the owner and got a ride in this car recently in Japan. The owner Tomitaku San was a great guy and he spoke about as much English as I did Japanese, but we had a few laughs as he drove it through the Japanese country side. Will share some videos soon. Also the original SpeedHunters link in this thread is broken, but you can still find the article here: https://www.speedhunters.com/2010/04/car_feature_gt_gt_office_tomitaku_s30/ Although SpeedHunters is kind of on hold or taking a hiatus as of late. At least the images and content is still there. I also on the same trip managed to meet Dino Dalle Carbonare who wrote the article back in 2010. Which was also great. The trip was part of the S30 World Team 2025 expedition to Japan, of which I have become part of, to try and help promote and celebrate the S30Z worldwide.

Hi guys. I recently purchased a 1975 260z and had it brought up from Melbourne to sunny, tropical Goulburn. (well, it is for at least a few days). It's largely complete but very tired. The body appears to be in excellent shape, though. L28 engine, auto. Plan is to ditch the auto and keep the rest as it is, maybe add a few go fast bits as we progress, and change the interior trim to black. Motor is tired, blows smoke and brakes are barely working, so had it towed home. Transmission is vague, so hit it with some Lucas transmission stop slip and it seems to have improved it a little. I am a long time fan of the z cars ever since I took one for a test drive when I was around 20 years old. Sadly, it has taken a further 42 year before I can say I now own one. Because it was brought up from Vic, it now has to start afresh with a blue slip. I think I am going to be in for a ride.

Hi guys. I had a second go at it and this time pulled apart the mechanism and cleaned up the terminals /contact points. One side was in poor condition. Hit it with some super fine steel wool and put it together. Wasn't expecting much, but suddenly discovered I had a win! Blinkers work perfectly again and no smoking.

George had done a lot of the big jobs like fitting the suspension, drivetrain and dash. But once #19 was unloaded we took stock of all the parts: Some parts needed replacing, some needs refurbishing and some needed painting. The doors needed to be assembled with their glass and mechanisms, door cards installed, the tail light panels needed repairs and painting, the fiberglass centre console need repairing and painting, it needed carpets, a front bumper, bonnet hinge torsion rods straightened and installed, interior plastics installed... Basically we were going to be undertaking the last 50% of reassembly. So on with the photos in no particular order: The window tinder mechs were seized & in terrible condition, so we bought new T3 items. Checking 1/4 glass frame fitment: Plumbing the fuel tank: TBC...

I am Without Speech! The one thing that is bothering me is the bonnet release cable. I dont know what to do to hide it. Any options out there?

uhoh, what's going on here: anddddddd, she is no longer a V8 Z. A somewhat sad moment

Had a good think about this, although its tempting its not worth the money they are asking. Haven't seen the old ones selling for crazy prices as investment purposes Could put money towards the actual car but everyone is different. Im more of an Omega kinda guy

How to start/warm up your classic car's engine : Discussion around lubrication system, using the choke, rpm etc.

carsales | Australia’s No.1 Car Website – carsales.com.au What a lovely example of the 2+2. Makes me wish I had kept my old 1975 2+2...she was my first car.

Always wanted a 6 speed - Not for the faint hearted this, i used a Godzilla Race Works Bell housing and a cd009 brand new gear box, you only have to cut of the font of the cd009 gear box then bolt on the Godzilla Race Works Bell housing- easy as, then bolt in the Apex engineering gear box mount and a V2 CD009 Gearbox Shifter relocation setup GK-TECH Australia,m Likewise Weighted Stainless Shift Knob with the clamp on threaded mount so you customise the height of the shifter, Custom Silk Shift boot - How does it go - its strong, pulls harder now, about 10km faster everywhere.

Thanks Gav, I had been gathering photos as well but hadn't had any with those two brackets. My radio just has the case without the brackets. That would explain the difficulties. Strangely, no materials on line for it. I couldn't see it on the part diagrams etc, so that photo is great. I suspect we will have to make something to replicate the bracket.

Get it on a hoist or stands and inspect with a torch. Lightly tap and probe any suspect rust areas to check for soft metal, as rails can rust inside and out. Pay close attention to suspension mounts, sills and floor pans. For that kind of money, a professional inspection is worth it.

Holy thread revival, Batman!

Hi all, Just joined the forum after reading along for a while. I have a strong interest in Z cars, both stock and modified. This place seems like a great source of knowledge, so I am looking forward to learning, asking the odd question and contributing where I can. Cheers and glad to be here.

Indeed I was. They've just updated the forum & it's borked the latest images for some reason...

One end unscrews:

A small achievement cleaned and rebuilt a hatch vent. The plastic/rubber components where all good but painted and dirty, they cleaned up ok I got some generic speed nuts that fitted Used some 8mm open cell foam and cut it to size and stuck down with double sided tape. I will have to repeat this step as the tape stuck the speed nut so it was hard to jiggle into position for fitting the vent. Satisfying couple of hours Its easy to see how the cost of restoration builds up. 4 clips to hold components to hatch $110 Speed nuts $18 2 packets Barrel clips 4 $16 Vents $150 Had the foam and tape Nick

I'm a bit late to this. You could try replacing the valve stem seals, but it's more likely to be worn piston oil control rings. Nissan use a very soft ring and they wear prematurely, causing oil burning. If you were keen to DIY, pop the head off, pistons out, dingle ball hone and fit new rings.

I would be interested in the (non-seized) L26 if it's running? (see my recent ad in Wanted) But I understand if the car needs to be sold complete.

If it helps anyone, I had the same issue on my (new to me last month) very tired 1974 260z 2+2...none of my gauges were illuminated, my heater didn't run. After chasing it for what seemed like days, prodding everything in sight with a multimeter, it was an unconnected rando purple cable under the dash that was spliced to a GreenRed wire coming out the fusebox and had 12v with ignition On or Off. I removed the splice clip and....there was illumination and a fan running. I should have removed it earlier but was trying process of elimination. I think it was joining two independent 12v circuits, whenever one was live it dragging voltage into the other, killing the heater and confusing the heck out of me. Now I have time to look at the other thousand problems exciting challenges.

https://www.dmhistorics.com/showroom/other-classics/1971-datsun-240z/ No VIN listed but I believe that it is #675. Gavin already has it logged in this thread but this is a reappearance for it. I remember when it sold on carsales several years ago. It was in top condition, went to the UK, pulled down and rebuilt. Roughly AUS$120k which seems right for our market. I thought they might be going for a little more over there considering the numbers they got.

As per title, engine and gearbox for sale, Holley 350 Carb, electronic dizzy and coil, exhaust manifold. Will sell the engine seperately if sold first. I believe mild cams, but no details. Currently running and driving, soon to be removed to put an original engine in the 260z. Engine mounting adapters for 260z can be included. Currently in Berwick, car will be in Gippsland soon. Price: $4,500.00

Happy Birthday Gav240Z@ thanks for keeping the site up and running with all the invaluable Z info that can be found here. It might be time for a few of us to donate to this site to keep it running. Have a great day Gavin, i hope its not too cold down south Cheers Dave

Hi Tom, Well I've done one, but I would say it's quite a bit more than a list of parts to buy, more a list of things to do, sort out. I'm sure there must be a lot of stuff online that covers it. Engine mounts made my own. I sat a dummy engine and gearbox in place and once where I wanted it worked out the dimensions for them and made them up. I believe it is possible to buy something, but might not get engine exactly where you want it.. Sump: I chopped the bottom off RB sump and made and new one with sump at rear. You can use a patrol RB sump and do it with less work. Gearbox: RB. Need to remove the speed sensor to fit it in the tunnel. Tailshaft: I used skyline shaft. Shortened to one piece. Replaced diff flange with Subaru STI 6 speed diff flange (Not easy to get locally). This flange has the same bolt pattern as Skyline shaft. So it then just bolts up. Radiator: Both fittings on drivers side. Plenum: Used Skyline front throttle body, but had to chop front of and realign it for induction pipe to go out the front. Intercooler: Modified it so pipes go through the air vent holes. Gearbox mount: Mount be able to buy one, but some have said what you can buy is not great. So might be better making your own up. Wiring: Either get a Skyline loom and wire it in. Or better way custom ecu and do your own loom. Time: A lot of it required. Cost: Quite a cost even if doing all the work and fabrication your self. If you have to pay someone to do it and cost is a possible constraint, then probably not something to consider doing. Stick with good L series. How's that for a start. Greg

For so long i have been trying to get this job from japan. Finally its going to happen bits are turning up and parts ordered. Going to be a epic build going all out 90x90 bore stroke .full work over of the old head .stay tuned