Leaderboard

Well. Stopped thinking about buying a Zed and actually did. You might recognise this from the classifieds, it is Linton’s second car he was in the process of working on, after the orange 2+2 he splendidly restored. AKA known as “the Ratson” because it previously came with free rats. 🐀🐀🐀🐀 RS30-00981 260Z 2 seater It will take a while, and be very much one step at a time. We’re competent with mechanical things, can get by on electrical bits and pieces, but welding, body work, sheet metal fabrication, and spray painting we will be learning as we go! Plan is an L26, manual, with some upgrades such as triple webbers, disc brake rear end, and maybe a Subaru A/C system. Yellow, with perhaps a body kit. So after lurking around here for a while now, we’re no longer an imposter because we actually own a Z car! Our second Datsun after the 1600. Cheers, Richard

In our shop, from bare metal we Epoxy, then prime, then mask off the rails, stone chip the flat panels, then apply body colour over everything. IMHO This is the most professional way to go about the underside of a Z:

Featuring our very own @gav240z

After the BBQ, Les Collins Racing was able to squeeze me in for a look over and maybe a quick tune up. I was able to sit (stand) through the whole process as Josh went through balancing, changing the floats and we changed over the main jets a couple of times. The initial bench jetting (based of Les' recommendations) was close, but in the process of getting the Z driveable, another mechanic had gone to rich on the mains to combat the float levels being out. Lambda sensor attached, we went for a few drives trying to iron out the lean spitting down low, and sorted out the richness up top. Les jumped in for the final adjustments, changing the idle jets a couple of times and got it as close to perfect as possible. One of the downsides to OERs is sometimes they can be a bit lean on very slight throttle. Further modifications to the carbies will be needed, but that will be for another time and perhaps when we change from the HM style headers to the SWM headers. Aside from the above, Les/Josh didnt comment on the difference between them. Main positive is that the OER carbs I ordered are set up with Weber Jets, which makes tuning easier if you carry as many spares as LCR do. The downsides to Mikuni's these days is availability of spares, and some hardware are just complete odd ball sizes. And now for the first video after tune, as Les calls it: "An angry L28" *Note: this engine was NOT built/refurbed by Les Collins Racing, only the carbs were tuned there

Some more making parts look nice: *mechanical fuel pump to be removed

The painted suspension going back in with new bushes:

Here we go again...

Came across this youtube gem thought I would post it up for all to enjoy

Update time! In 2025 Daniel contacted me saying he's like to continue with the restoration of his 260Z, so in October '25 we extracted it from storage. As we'd already done the body shell, the panels needed attention next. On inspection the hatch frame was beyond economical repair, so I ordered a new one. I had the bonnet blasted and as expected that was damaged and rusty around the perimeter, so a new non-vented one was also ordered. Front guards were typically rusty at the bottom where they bolt to the sill, but the rest of the was ok. Se we set about removing the rear brace and repairing them bottoms of them: And the inner braces on both were reconstructed at the bottom: With the guard repairs complete, we turned our attention to the doors. This wasn't going to be easy... Later 260Z doors are different to 240Z, and 260Z door shells can't be bought new currently, so our only option was to repair them. We removed the skins (one had been replaced with a rare spares skin already) as they were both had rust at the bottom. The shells were pretty bad - espically the right door. The hinge mounting was gone, so we removed the inner reinforment and fabricated a new patch then welded it in. With the repairs to both doors done, the guards repaired I sent everything off to my media blaster so all the paint & surface rust could be removed...

Time to start putting everything back in, I have to say, I am very glad we decided to zinc plate the hardware and paint the block and anything else that needed painting. Next post, the engine and gearbox will be installed in the bay

Great to see everyone, perfect weather and mint cars. Once again big thinks to team Gordo for hosting.

Assembly could now begin. All the plated parts were organized, and any sub-assemblies were put together. The fuel and brake hard lines were installed in the chassis, followed by the brake booster, brake and clutch M/C's, and pedal box. The firewall mat was supplied by ZCarDepot to suit a RHD Z, but it needed much modifying to fit. Very disappointing and I don't recommended it.

With Daniel wanting a lower Z, we needed to have the strut tubes shortened so we could maintain effective bump travel. I took some measurements, then sent the bare struts off to be shortened and the gland nut threads recut. Being that the struts are 55mm (with the long rear tube), the rear needed a spacer in the bottom with a spigot to engage the bottom of the Koni insert to pack it up and keep it central, so a pair were machined up out of aluminum. We then assembled the struts with new Lovells lowering springs and their rebuilt braking components so we can fit the struts to the 260Z and get it rolling on it's wheels.

Would be interesting to start a discussion thread mods you wish previous owners HADN'T made!

My painter has now requested that we make the 260Z at least a rolling shell or drivable, so it's easy to move into paint booth. So I had a chat with Daniel about the direction of the build, as I was not going to refit the dirty and rusty suspension to the freshly painted chassis. We came to the decision to break the suspension down, have it media blasted and painted in 2k black. ALL the fasteners, brackets, catch's etc were cleaned and wire wheeled, then sent off for electroplating. The braking system can be upgraded later on by Daniel if he so wishes, but for the moment we had all the braking components rebuilt. However Daniel DID want a suitably lowered ride height, so I purchased a set of Z31 Front Koni Yellows, and Lovells 30mm lowered rear springs. The old Pedders 'Comfort Gas' inserts went in the bin! A new rubber suspension bush kit will be installed. Daniel had SW Motorsport rebuild the engine, with some tasty mods. Stewart then shipped it down to us to install. More on this later.

That's a bit of a 'how long is a piece of string' question, as it depends on what you are planning to do... '73 onwards wiring looms have more wires and the plugs are colour coded and not available new. Unless it's been butchered, it's can be reused. FWIW the last '73 I did, we unwrapped the loom, inspected it, fixed any issues, then re-pinned the terminals and re-taped it. I do recommend fitting a new modern fuse box though: https://www.thezstore.com/product/4750/msa-fuse-box-short-pigtail-72-73-240z as the originals are almost always damaged in some way. If you are modifying it in any significant way, I would suggest you 'dry build' it before paint to avoid damaging fresh paint.

Hi Mate - it was just the largest format Outside Decal UV Stabilized commonly used for real-estate boards - that you order through for Office Works. It up to you supply the graphic - just have a chat to office works about the resolution requirements to get a sharp image. Cheers AK

Joe you kept my motivation going, thanks. Update: I set the "Fun" level to 10. I bought a flaring tool. From EFI Solutions I bought: steel 3/16 brake line and stainless brake tube nuts (M10x1.0mm) so an ape like me can't strip them again. I've had a crack at double flares and finally got them tight enough to sit nicely against the nuts - I guess until I pressurise them I won't know if I did a good or a bad job. It's not like I'd have to undo the whole thing if they were bad....oh... The brake juice had stripped all the paint off my rails so whilst I had parts removed and some access...first attempt at rust converter last night, it's a mess. Then some primer later today straight over it. What could POSSIBLY go wrong? (/sarcasm) Anyone feel free to correct me if I am off course. Next: primer, then rattle can of VGPaint 306, then tape it all up ready for more leaks, then bend the brake lines into shape, test fit, redo it x10, then bleed brakes.

Sounds like it wasnt put back together too well. Was it honed or sleeved? Was a new rubber seal kit installed? It will be the rear rubber seal inside the master around the pushrod that is leaking. Master needs to come back off to fix it. Hope this helps. Please keep us updated as to your progress. <Edit> The seal/s in question are not around the pushrod; I wasnt thinking straight when I typed the reply. The seal around the pushrod at the rear is a dust boot, the seals that would be leaking are inside the bore of the master cylinder.

C.A.R. doesnt find cars...cars find C.A.R.

With the repairs complete, we spent a week or so making the panels fit nicely adjusting the panel gaps to 5mm. The body was then scuffed with 240g and given a fresh coat of 2k Epoxy. After this it went off the to paint shop!

Yes, Chris from S30 World was in Australia a couple of weeks ago, we took him to see Les Collins and he got to meet a couple of members here. He was only in for a quick stop over, so planning wasn't the best, but the 432 was a project he took on late last year and was something we discussed in Japan with both @HS30-H and Kats helping contribute to sourcing some of the original missing parts. It should be an excellent restoration and the owner seems to be quite comfortable with what S30 World are going to do. Be good to see one done right!

Are you blind?

LH is indeed incorrect. Can yo see evidence of it being modified? Did you ask your RW inspector why does it matter? As long as no part of the hose assembly is touching anything, it's performing the same function. There's no need to change the strut. No. That's not correct. There is no such shim for that purpose - perhaps clarify with him what he means. What 'I think' he's talking about the anti-rattle shim that goes between the brake pad & the caliper piston. They do go missing, but are easy enough to obtain through someone like Stewart Wilkins at SW Motorsport. RW Inspectors are a strange breed - they almost always focus on some obscure issue, while missing something else obvious...

And finally... And on the 28th of December 2025, I borrowed a mates enclosed trainer, loaded the 240Z up, drove to Sydney and personally delivered to Tony the mother of all birthday presents: 4 years (with 6 - 8 month break in the middle). 1682 Hours (lots not accounted for). Lots of lessons learnt. One VERY happy owner of 240Z HS30-00211 Would I take on a project like this again? You bet I would.

Hi Folks, There was an issue with the forum recently, I am in the process of troubleshooting it. Looks like a post update issue with a template file and a custom 'hook' call was causing it to break the template code for the page. I've just cleared all caches and made a few small changes as part of debugging. It looks to be working again, although I cannot exact explain what change I made that resolved it. Perhaps a combination of clearing old template files and forcing them to be regenerated fixed the issue? Hard to say for sure, but let me know if you still have issues going forward? I can raise an issue with the IPS support team to have a look. Our current hosting environment may need to undergo some changes to meet requirements of the newer version that will be pushed out soon. So I may need to do some ongoing updates/changes in due course.

@C.A.R. @gav240z You were right, it was the valve stem seals - you guys rock! Last week I got booked in with Richard at Allcraft and he's worked his magic on it, she's up and running again. It took a lot of work. Shout out to him and Lou Mondello - Allcraft Automotive 23 Wren Rd, Moorabbin VIC 3189 (03) 9532 2919 When I asked him what we should work on next to get it past RWC he rolled his eyes and said "where do I start....?!" Yeah. Enough said. It's a restoration! I'm sourcing an airbox for the twin SUs then he can dial it in on the dyno...she might even make 3rwhp! Right....back to admiring Nedz ride.

And now the crown jewels, the triple OER45s on the Kameari Harada manifold:

Engine & gearbox in: Engine bay wiring harness off to the auto elec From this: To this:

It's on again! Date: Sunday 7th December 2025. Time: 11am Onwards. Location: Same as previous years, Gordon and Sharon's property in the outer East near Lilydale. Please prey for dry weather! PM me or @Gordo for the address if you haven't been before. Bring your Zed, food and Drink and a chair. The wood fired BBQ will be provided. Bring your Wives , partners and kids. All welcome!

We're not that old, first thing to do would be confirm where the oil burning is coming from, if the motor has sat a long time, it may simply be dried out valve stem seals leaking oil from the top end of the motor into the combustion chamber. Replacing those may fix your oil burning issues. Otherwise it will be bottom end oil control rings. But it's worth a shot, since I had that issue years ago and replaced the seals and it was fine after.

Big thread bump from 2010, but I managed to meet the owner and got a ride in this car recently in Japan. The owner Tomitaku San was a great guy and he spoke about as much English as I did Japanese, but we had a few laughs as he drove it through the Japanese country side. Will share some videos soon. Also the original SpeedHunters link in this thread is broken, but you can still find the article here: https://www.speedhunters.com/2010/04/car_feature_gt_gt_office_tomitaku_s30/ Although SpeedHunters is kind of on hold or taking a hiatus as of late. At least the images and content is still there. I also on the same trip managed to meet Dino Dalle Carbonare who wrote the article back in 2010. Which was also great. The trip was part of the S30 World Team 2025 expedition to Japan, of which I have become part of, to try and help promote and celebrate the S30Z worldwide.

Hi guys. I recently purchased a 1975 260z and had it brought up from Melbourne to sunny, tropical Goulburn. (well, it is for at least a few days). It's largely complete but very tired. The body appears to be in excellent shape, though. L28 engine, auto. Plan is to ditch the auto and keep the rest as it is, maybe add a few go fast bits as we progress, and change the interior trim to black. Motor is tired, blows smoke and brakes are barely working, so had it towed home. Transmission is vague, so hit it with some Lucas transmission stop slip and it seems to have improved it a little. I am a long time fan of the z cars ever since I took one for a test drive when I was around 20 years old. Sadly, it has taken a further 42 year before I can say I now own one. Because it was brought up from Vic, it now has to start afresh with a blue slip. I think I am going to be in for a ride.

Hi guys. I had a second go at it and this time pulled apart the mechanism and cleaned up the terminals /contact points. One side was in poor condition. Hit it with some super fine steel wool and put it together. Wasn't expecting much, but suddenly discovered I had a win! Blinkers work perfectly again and no smoking.

How to start/warm up your classic car's engine : Discussion around lubrication system, using the choke, rpm etc.

Thank you Great advice as usual Worked a treat Door lines up really well had to grind a little off hinge Excellent OEM door Nick

Refer to the donk in the engine bar: and maybe the flares too haha

https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/details/1969-datsun-1600-manual/OAG-AD-24642820/ or here https://autodynasty.com.au/buy/1969-nissan-bluebird-/Q2QGzaynhcol8AVATQrdqA Another ripper!

Go to this youtube video: Go to approx. 1.0 minutes. This is LHD VIN#16 which was one of the first cars sold to the general public in the USA. The car was originally gold and was repainted white in the early 1970's. The stickers/decals were applied to the time of the repaint. Its 1970's cool.

Another local option is Coilovers by Supafatto. You can find him on Facebook or below. https://www.pitloon.com/businesses/supafatto

I went with some products from Car Builders : 1) Insul-Layer - applied to inside of doors and rear quarter panels 2) Mass Noise Liner - used in place of the old sisal under carpet areas and on the firewall. From their web site : "Sound deadener is generally a misunderstood material. Normally the first stage of treating noise is referred to as ‘sound deadener’. This stage only really treats vibration in panels. It was often a bitumen-based product but more commonly consists of a butyl rubber with an aluminium top layer. Cheaper sound dampening sheets consist of a lower grade butyl, which is not as durable or resistant as those used by leading brands. Butyl sheets by themselves however, will not result in dampening droning or external noise that you may be more interested in treating. This will be treated more successfully with mass loaded vinyls. If you are aware of the type of sounds that are annoying, you will be able to treat them more successfully with targeted products."

- If you have to rebuild the L26, look at rebuilding an L28 instead. Depending on your budget for the motor, you can get a decent build out of Pearl Automotive Engineering (VIC). - Buy brand new Triple Webers from Weber Performance (VIC), and go straight for 45s. Even if you put the L26 in, and an L28 is an option later on, atleast you will have 45s already.

Coming back to Australia 🇦🇺

PM sent Edit: just bought 2 on your ebay store

If you are going to the trouble of rebuilding an engine, I would encourage looking at rebuilding an L28 if you can find one for a decent price. I did spot an L28 block (no head) for under $500 on facebook marketplace in VIC. I would also recommend speaking to Pearl Automotive Engineering in Montrose and go from there. A few of my mates have had their engines built (L28 to 3Litres), and the price was pretty reasonably from memory. Might be out of the budget, but I am sure they can do a standard rebuild for a good price. Then maybe even look at buying these triple webers from Lindsay if there is room in the budget: https://www.gumtree.com.au/web/listing/engine-engine-parts-transmission/1337873285

Sounds like you have a dead short somewhere. Start unplugging 1 wire at a time & see what happens.

1976 260z - RS30010114 https://collectingcars.com/for-sale/1976-datsun-260z-1

Had a good think about this, although its tempting its not worth the money they are asking. Haven't seen the old ones selling for crazy prices as investment purposes Could put money towards the actual car but everyone is different. Im more of an Omega kinda guy