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@OdinZ hahah I linked to photos of my 944T in my post! The text "I ended up buying a 944 Turbo" links to my Instagram page Here it is again: https://www.instagram.com/p/CNUnMbdjBrT/

Yup. I couldn't do a thorough rust check on my visit, but my brother – a mechanic – noticed some bubbling in the paint on the roof at the passenger side. Other than that, it looked pretty clean to him, but it was only a cursory inspection. There's a list of items needed for a roadworthy, but nothing overly dramatic or expensive. I don't think it'd be appropriate to post the specifics here, though. (I paid for the roadworthy check, but I think he should be given the opportunity to share the details with you himself.) It drives well and it's quick, has a tuned L28 in it as described in the ad, but the interior needs a lot of work – it wasn't his top priority. Is it worth 60k? Given the price being asked and achieved for more finished cars... I'd say it's worth the money if you're up for the project, yeah. ---- Me personally, I ended up buying a 944 Turbo a few weeks ago. (I guess this is something of an announcement!) So, as much as I love the S30, I guess I'm done in terms of becoming an owner, haha. "I couldn't afford a Datsun so I bought a Porsche!" I'm not a project kinda guy, and in the end I decided that while I can access the money to buy an $80k Z, it's not an 80k car for me. Blasphemy? Probably. And hey, people out there are prepared to pay that money – I'm just not one of them anymore. So, short of deciding I do have the energy and time and patience to take on a project, or accepting the less appealing 2+2 shape, or hunting for years for those magical clean examples that miraculously pop up occasionally at $50k, I guess I'm never going to fulfill my dream. That said, I'm not unhappy. The 944 Turbo was always one of my faves, with its rad boxy guards and '80s vibes. And the one I've bought is stunning. I paid 40k for it, and it's in excellent condition with a great history. Life could be worse! A new 2022 Z could be in my future someday though, haha. I don't think I'd be all that unhappy with a used example sometime in the next 5 years! Be well guys, and keep treasuring your Zs. Come say g'day if you ever spot my 944T at a classics meet!

Suzuki Swift Sport manual RS416 2005-2012 6-14k. Pros great little run around city/suburban car that is sporty and fun to drive at pace. Can be daily driven and parking is a breeze and easy to care for. Bought one for the missus to commute to work but I enjoy driving it around whenever possible and they hold their value if well kept. It is well known as “The Ring hire car.” Cons small fwd.

I feel it unwise to abbreviate the identification codes to an extent that confuses the sub-variants. For example '71A' units could be 4-speed (Warner synchro) or 5-speed (Servo synchro), and there are many 'B' box sub-variants that can be both Warner and Servo synchro type. The Japanese market B-types usually had flange type outputs too, so it becomes increasingly complicated. I don't know where the poor reputation for the FS5C71-A comes from, except to guess that it might be tainted by worn out examples long after the fact. Over here in the UK many a tired FS5C71-A was replaced with a newer FS5C71-B or FS5W71-B simply because they were plentiful from breakers. Gradually the easy way out became an 'upgrade' in local lore. About synchro types: If the Warner-patent type is "faster shifting" in comparison to the steel Servo-patent type, you'd have to wonder why Nissan chose to fit their Sports Option/Race Option 'Competition' versions of these transmissions with the steel Servo-patent type? The factory certainly never used Warner-patent servo transmissions in their Works race and rally Zs. Doesn't seem to add up, does it? "Serviceable"? Are you talking about blueprinting here? They worked perfectly well off-the-shelf (ie, new) and - as mentioned - they eventually wear out. I think this "monkey motion" term comes - along with a lot of other nonsense - from the USA. Perhaps an engineers opinion of a slightly fangled linkage arrangement, but there are design problems with the B-series 'boxes which don't seem to get mentioned because their reputation as 'the' upgrade in period was cemented long ago. I always take the all-pervasive American lore with a very large pinch of salt. I tip my hat to Australian lore, but hope it hasn't been tainted by USA Uber Alles syndrome. TLDR: FS5C71-C with the Kameari Engine Works 'Cross' (tr: 'Close') Gear Kit is a wonderful thing. Recommended.

Tesla Roadster (First Generation) - 2008-2012 (less for RHD) 100k US. There's a RHD one on carsales in Australia for 190k, less than they were new. I don't think it's a super car, but it might be considered "obvious" as it's priced like one. Pros Low volume ~2500 according to wikipedia and 50 in RHD. First production EV that attempted to appeal to enthusiasts. First model by a polarising company, will likely end up being one of the biggest car companies or a spectacular failure. Successor with the same name will soon be released with supposedly impressive specs Cons Extremely high price, future collectability may already be factored in. Its basically a heavy Elise. Early EV so longevity is unknown. I think there's so many interesting points about the car (there's even one in space), company and Elon Musk that it should almost certainly be collectible and a "classic" in future. But I think it's a bit off the radar as most attention around Teslas are on the current range and new specs, and not what models or variants may be "classics". From a similar line of thought, early (pre facelift) Model S's might one day be collectible but are still depreciating.

I’ll start Mazda RX-8 Series 2 currently 10-15k pros- Wankel engine, critically acclaimed on release, 4 doors (sort of), 4 seats (sort of), good looking, RWD, excellent handling. cons- Wankel engine, fuel consumption, maintenance costs, considered the black sheep of the RX family, hard to find good examples I think the rotary engine is a unique piece of engineering which is a strong and weak point. Due to the high rate that these get sent to the junkyard the number of good examples will be diminished. This may have been the last ever Wankel engined car ever produced.

Z32 300zx, they are not given much respect despite how advanced they were in the late 80s / early 90s. The V6 is hard to work on so that's kept a lot of hey Mr Drifter types away. But also many are very badly neglected now. Finding a good 2 seat turbo manual is tough. But a sturdy 3.0ltr which has a lot of tuning potential. The RB26 is the darling but the VG30DETT is also a weapon. Modified the right way they look nice and low and wide. Almost supercar looking.

12 months ago I would have said, 180sx, S15, Chaser, Stagea, Pulsar GTiR to name a few but Covid tax boosted those cars out of cheap and into expensive within a few months. So I can't add them here and say told you so. But I think the 180sx shape Type X in particular is the best of the S-bodies, followed by S15 and then S14 and S13 (notch back shape). I also have been looking for an AE92/93 4AGE powered Corolla SX/GTi and almost impossible to find a good 1. Found 1 on CarSales for $11.5k and it sold (was clean). So I think a lot of the P-plate first cars for many of us will become collectible again. For the Nostalgia in particular. My friend has 3 3rd Gen Preludes. I've always thought they were great cars and well appointed. They are slowly going up in value. But really overlooked because hard to kswap and not much aftermarket support for them. But they really are good little things. I think the fact that first, second and fourth gens were a bit lame ducks didn't help. The 5th gen VTiR is good though! But also 3rd Gens came in less desirable twin carb SOHC and non 4WS equipped in markets outside of Australia which hampers their appeal. Where as Aus delivered they got all the fruit including B20A5 engine.

350/370z They are right now getting abused left right and centre. Many will end up drift pigs because s-body tax and rarity now. So they will get consumed next. I think the 370z Nismo has a lot of appeal in particular and improved the look of the car. The 350z when new was $60k+ AUD in the early 2000s. You can pick them up for a song now, hard to find a clean 1. 370z's will get even cheaper once the new Z is launched. So wait a bit and buy 1 at rock bottom prices, then just enjoy it. My mate has a Maxima from 2007 ish with the same 350z engine slightly detuned. It's done nearly 400,000kms. Wanted nothing.

Yeah, that's my old car and it looks like the seller is looking to make a cheeky 10k profit!

Is that this car? Seems like it could be a flipper if so as that auction was only a couple of months ago. I seem to recall another red 260Z with an RB30 changing hands a couple of times over the last ~5 years too. Always seemed to be a decent price (both cars), so I guess it's not a popular swap!

@brent012 it’s a really good point that no one is really considering EVs from a classic perspective. Really out of the box, I like it

I love the 944, my old mans got one sitting at his place. He is going to get it painted and interior restored. Shame its an auto

Pics or it didnt happen! haha "I couldn't afford a Datsun so I bought a Porsche!" this i can relate to on so many levels!

Yes and I suppose the fact you have to be checking and lubricating more regularly is what makes the single more maintenance. Where as double only requires the wheel cylinders to be healthy. I don’t have a set lying around but my Z man has some which should be relatively inexpensive, all you need to source is the -77-78 drum backing plate -77-78 park brake adjuster mechanism/arms - 77-78 rubber grommets for park brake adjuster The remaining gear is readily available and cheap from the US including wheel cylinders, shoes, hardware kits. Like you say due to the 280z. This mod to the drums obviously does not increase braking performance. But makes them easier to live with. my theory was that IF I decide to stick with drums (which I’m leaning towards) I have to replace/renew all my components anyway. So for the small extra outlay of getting the 77-78 back plates and brake adjuster, I figured it was worth upgrading to the better design. @Gtv240z I feel I have hijacked your thread and I will shutup now...

Correct. Which is why lubrication of the base plate to allow the single cylinder, and brake shoes, to react and slide as required is so important. All detailed in the manuals. But, look, if you've got a set of rear brakes off a '77/'78 car to hand then by all means use them, assuming you can recondition or renew the double cylinders. If you haven't, you may struggle to find some, as AFAIK there weren't many late 260Zs sold in Australia. Much easier for the enthusiasts in the USA with their much larger supply of late 280Zs and availability of parts. Unless you're hell bent on having rear discs then IMHO the KISS principle is best. Just get the stock set-up of rear drum brakes and handbrake well renovated, sorted and balanced using only quality components and all should be fine.

I used to promote rear disc conversions, but I've learnt a bit in the last few years... If you use the R31 caliper and disc setup 'as is', you actually have LESS braking performance than the drums. COD goes way down... Also the handbrake is more or less useless in the conversion. If you really want rear discs and run 15in wheels, Les Collins has custom CNC steel adaptor brackets on the shelf - to run R31 calipers on larger NA Z31 rear rotors - and this setup clocks the caliper at 5deg rearward to make the caliper easy to bleed. Also included are remade handbrake cables to make everything work correctly. This setup actually works and IS an improvement over the drums and R31 discs. I have the competed assembly for my Z - If I get time I'll take a photo...

Alan is correct - your Z would have been fitted with the '71A' box from the factory. Hence the interesting mod to the tail-shaft you have discovered, and the leaver hitting the front of the tunnel. I have to disagree slightly with Alan on the 71A units, as they are quite a bit slower in shifting and less accurate in action then a B or C box. Also the cost to rebuild the 'Monkey Motion' shift mechanism to an acceptable standard is eyewatering - nearly $1000 to make it serviceable. Not only that, the bulk-ring synchro's are expensive to buy and they are not fast to engage (compared to the brass warner style), hence a slower shifting gearbox... Other 71A parts are also somewhat harder to acquire (read expensive) here in Australia too. To fully rebuild one you are looking at around $3500 (including labour). Of course the decision is yours Ryan about what you use and how original you want to make your Z. If you are aiming for an original restoration, use the 71A box you have. If not, use a late model S13/S14 Silvia 71C box as this will bring the shifter up in the correct position. Finally, the gearbox in your photo is most likely a wide ratio 71B box with brass synchro's on 1st through 4th, and a steel bulk ring on 5th. In other words it's a 240K gearbox and it worth about $200 HTH

If the car is a 1971 production year Australian market model then its original transmission would have been the FS5C71-A. Honestly, I'd go with that. They are lovely to use when in good nick, and the straight stick will fit your console and trans tunnel like it was made for it (er, it was....). The ratios are great with the 3.9:1 rear end, and you get the steel Servo-patent synchro shift into the bargain.

The best kind of car park. Single car bus stop style.