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Well After watching HomeBuiltJeff and recovered from the shock of the $300 valve cost of part replacement I ventured into my cave and got a heater valve to see what can be done Went on the forum to see if this has been covered before and could not find any info on repairing but plenty on leaking valves So the quest begun pic 1 The leaking Valve pic 2 Tools I used for repair Pic 3 the valve assembly with lever pin that has to be removed first pic 4 Using a small blade screwdriver I carefully prised the brass tabs up enough to release it from the valve frame pic5 released the valve cock from the frame pic 6 bent the brass tabs back a little bit further and with a 8mm bolt up the tube end gently tapped the valve seal mechanism out When you look at the tube you will see indentations on the tube this is where the bottom of the outer seal sits and to release the parts you need to remove ONLY the back circlip,with that removed the valve drive stem can be dismantled and the old seals can be removed and sidelined for reference. pic 7 & 8 show you that there is an o ring hidden in the middle white plastic part that is one of the main leaking points that needs to be replaced pic 9 shows the disassembled valve stem and cock, the replacement parts were some normal metric o rings and a hot water tap valve from my cave via bunnings plumbing parts,be sure that the inner hole of the tap valve is suitable size to the heater stem rod pic 10 & 11 shows the the bakelite guide and a glued small o ring to duplicate the original recessed seal and centre the guide I glued this oring to the seal with 406 and that allowed the guide to be sealed centrally to the brass valve tube and pressured the circlip back on the stem behind the correct brass washer and now the front seal was complete pic 13 shows the rear seals I put the on the stem and then ensured the small centre seal was pressed back fully into is plastic to complete the shaft seal I then reseated the valve assembly back into the tube with the new o ring ensuring that the brass washer was sitting on the tubes locating indentations with that complete I used the g clamp ,socket over the stem and wood to the tube bottom to slightly press the assembly to its correct location in the tube and slightly bent the to tabs slightly to hold the valve assembly into its tube Relocated the tube back into its position in the frame and with a punch and small tab hammer bend the tabs back over as in pic 3 tested the valve and it was a success so don't toss the valves all is not lost Cheers PHIL

Absolutely the 123Ignition is a much less involved ignition that what I’m doing. I did look at this and the only reason I went with the Megasquirt was that I had the Megasquirt kit already (i’m I’m ‘frugal’). They look like a good bit of kit. I did correspond with 123 and I believe they confirmed it would operate with CDI ignitions like the MSD 6AL. The moment of truth arrived for the first startup with the Megasquirt configured for ignition only and the SB needles in the SU carbs. The distributor needed to be aligned with the trigger angle parameter in the ECU which was easy to to. I did hit a road bump with a leak from a MAP vac hose that was larger than the onboard MAP sensor barb. That was fixed with a smaller vac hose 3mm in diameter from Super Cheap Auto. I had to buy the stand out blue coloured silicon stuff made by SAAS because the roll of non descipt black was empty. With the problem fixed the car runs but I want to revisit the ignition table before driving and adjust the SU mixture nuts after. The idle vacuum is a little different to what I thought it would be and revving the engine without load cause some hesitation around the 3k RPM mark which makes me think I have the advance ramping up too fast in the table.

This is a great article for anyone so inclined as to learn about the points system. https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2019/01/21/ignition-debate-points-vs-pertronix For years I sort of half understood how it works, now I have a much better sense of how it all works.

Update 1.2.19 - A short trip to Japan with a semi interesting video. Quickly, on the zed front.... Nothing. I went down there today. Painter has essentially got out 3 of the 4 cars in line before mine. He painted 2 of them over Christmas which i was a bit surprised about, I didn't know he painted the Cortina too. He is working on Youhan's car now and mine is next. I said i will check up on him in 3-4 weeks. Anyway... Over Christmas i was overseas and made a quick stop over in Japan for 8 days. Really wish i had more time but it wasn't to be, as the wife and i were in the Philippines for family stuff for most of our holiday. I Wanted to hit up a few of the shops i had visited before. Super autoBachs, and especially Tam Tam hobby store. I regretted not buying a nice 240z model last time i was there for my honeymoon, so i made sure i got... uhh... quite a few models while i was there. Anyway i cobbled a video together of some of the highlights, checking out tam tam hobby, super autobachs and trying to hit up a Upgarage. not my best work as it was done with my phone camera, but i think its interesting enough to watch. Rudi.

Very nice looking Queenslander. Jeff

1978 SCCA Championship

Compressor looks good there, at not on the kitchen table.

The issue I had with using the pertronix unit was that the dwell was too low and caused misfire issues higher in the rev range. I contacted pertronix who told me the 20 degrees dwell I was seeing was normal, but this is nowhere near enough to saturate the coil at higher rpms. When I swapped the points back in the problem went away. I modified it and ended up with around 28 degrees dwell before the pickup was losing signal from the magnet, which improved the problem but didn't completely solve the ignition breakdown at higher revs.I know other people seem to use them but I dont know how they work with such low dwell settings and no adjustment unless yo drill out the rivets and move the pickup away from the magnet to increase the dwell. I ended up tossing the pertronix and went with the Crane XR700 optically triggered setup and havent had an issue since.

Thanks PB