KatoKid Posted May 2, 2014 Author Posted May 2, 2014 Exhaust artwork Dave! It's probably something you know already and it's a while off, but before you fire up the car with the exhaust on wipe it down with windex or prepsol. The oil from clean fingers/hands will leave marks that bake onto the stainless, I learnt the hard way with my headers. Thanks gents. Didn't know that Gareth, thanks for the heads up. Quote
fly-s30 Posted May 2, 2014 Posted May 2, 2014 Job well done! BMW themselves couldnt have done a better packaged system. Just a few questions; where is the lowest point of the exhaust oo the car, my guess is under the diff? if so how much lower is it than the chassis rails? Cheers Darius Quote
KatoKid Posted May 2, 2014 Author Posted May 2, 2014 Hi Darius. Yes, the lowest point is under the diff. Hot dogs sit about half an inch lower than the chassis rails but bear in mind that the 240 rails are about half the depth of the 260 rails. David Quote
fly-s30 Posted May 2, 2014 Posted May 2, 2014 Half inch is nothing really! Score! you won't have any probs with hitting it in real world scenarios. Again well done on the system and hats off to your project as a whole, there is a really good thought process that has gone into your build. Quote
KatoKid Posted May 2, 2014 Author Posted May 2, 2014 Thanks. The hot dogs are a really tight fit to get around the diff and get them as high as possible. One of the most annoying things is that when you go to do the final welds everything moves from where you tacked it....irrespective of how many tacks you had on each join! I had to redo a couple of sections because I was working on 10 - 15mm clearances in some areas and it moved so much after final welding. I'm wrapped with the ground clearance, means I can go as low as I want without thoughts of damaging or dragging bits of exhaust everywhere! Quote
fly-s30 Posted May 3, 2014 Posted May 3, 2014 Stainless does that as you have already found . Either bracing prior to welding or block tack in place with packers to maintain dimensions. Either way when dealing with 1.6mm stainless nothing is guaranteed. Tucked for the win! Quote
zed240au Posted May 13, 2014 Posted May 13, 2014 You have done a great job david Dual exhaust and stainless is sure the way to jump in the deep end Good Job Mick Quote
fly-s30 Posted May 15, 2014 Posted May 15, 2014 I have just finished reading your thread in its entirety. Mate well done! You have reset the bar on the level of quality one person can do, with persistent aspiration to achieve the best results possible. I certainly have taken heaps on board, and ideas that I have for my build have been confirmed and good to see in solid form. Thanks for sharing so far! Now I must demand video of the beast running with the exhaust!... please Regards Darius Edit: if your looking for heat shielding, this mob might be able to help: http://www.dci.com.au/performance Quote
KatoKid Posted May 16, 2014 Author Posted May 16, 2014 You have done a great job David Dual exhaust and stainless is sure the way to jump in the deep end Good Job Thanks Mick, couldn't have done it without your help and patience! Darius, I get a heap of inspiration from reading everyone else threads. The really cool thing is that everyone has a different perspective on how to tackle different situations. There's no right or wrong it, comes down to personal preference. So, the last things I had to do was the tip and the O2 sensor bungs. The tip was a matter of measuring and cutting, creeping up on it to get just the length I wanted. I probably should have hung the rear bar on it to confirm it still looks Ok. Also included a shot of the rear mount before I added the tip.....not much room up there but it hangs just right. There isn't much room for the O2 sensors and I was going to put them further downstream where I had more room but luckily I did some reading up and they require a minimum of 600 deg C to work properly. They actually have heaters in them to bring them up to temp quickly so they can monitor emissions on cold start. The bungs are the same length as the factory bungs at 25mm and are pretty close to where they were on the factory headers so should be good. Also they must be pointing upwards from horizontal so that the water from condensation on start up doesn't collect and damage them.....the things you find out! Quote
Fairlady Z Posted June 1, 2014 Posted June 1, 2014 nice work dave this has moved along quite well. Quote
KatoKid Posted October 13, 2014 Author Posted October 13, 2014 Didn't realise how long its been since Ive updated this thread... Car is fully disassembled back to a bare shell and on the rotisserie again. Ive repaired a few rust pinholes uncovered when the shell was media blasted and also filled in a few holes that had been drilled by the previous owner for various things. If Ive done my homework and planned correctly I shouldn't need to do any more cutting, grinding or drilling when the body returns home in final colour. I'm expecting to deliver the shell to the panel shop in the next week or so Ive been getting all the other panels together to ensure they are up to scratch. The original doors were shot so I sourced a couple of replacements and after stripping back multiple layers of paint.... they aren't what you would call really straight but they are completely rust free! Rear hatch needs a small rust repair and Ive got brand new genuine Nissan front guards and bonnet as well. Front valance and cowl/plenum cover are coming from some other members so I will then have a full compliment of rust free bolt on bits. Quote
C.A.R. Posted October 13, 2014 Posted October 13, 2014 Genuine guards? Really? Sourced from where? Quote
Riceburner Posted October 13, 2014 Posted October 13, 2014 Genuine guards? Really? Sourced from where? There were some on Ebay a few months ago I believe. Quote
KatoKid Posted October 13, 2014 Author Posted October 13, 2014 Bought these a few years ago when I first got the car Guards came from Warren Zparts, were the last ones he had. Bonnet (and new door trims) came from Moorabbin Nissan. Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted October 13, 2014 Administrators Posted October 13, 2014 There is a pair of genuine guards on Yahoo! Auctions at the minute. Part No.s 63101-N4700 (Left Side) 63100-N4700 (Right Side) http://page2.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/b164629631 Currently at 230,000 yen About 2.5k AUD before shipping. Quote
260DET Posted December 7, 2014 Posted December 7, 2014 Still at the panel beaters? What a brilliant thread this is, a must read for anyone thinking of a out of the ordinary engine transplant eg the clutch MC solution. Understand now why custom exhaust makers don't want to do stainless too and aligning the laser pointer to get the tailshaft alignment correct, that's something which I've wondered about in the past. Great read too with plenty of pics, love it Quote
KatoKid Posted December 11, 2014 Author Posted December 11, 2014 Thanks Richard...body only just went to the panel shop last week; they got behind on some other jobs which had the anticipated knock on effect..... I took all the hang on panels to the shop as well and they looked at the door hinges and asked me to re-bush them so they could hang the doors to ensure that they would close properly and the panel gaps would be good and stay good. I disassembled the hinges completely; media blasted them and reassembled them using the parts recommended in this thread: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/body/doorhinge/index.htm went well with no issues for a cost of $93. Wear in the old pins was the main culprit, the old bushes are steel not brass and could be reused at a pinch but not really worth it for all the effort. Quote
KatoKid Posted January 9, 2015 Author Posted January 9, 2015 Installed Speedhut gauges in the dash today....http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,15427.0.html Quote
KatoKid Posted February 6, 2015 Author Posted February 6, 2015 Progress is being made at the panel shop...not speedy but progress...... and more importantly I'm happy with the quality. The doors I had bought were indeed rust free but far from straight, nothing serious but the panel shop was adamant that pulling the skins was the best way to get them straight. While the skins were off it made sense to blast everything, then etch and colour before putting them back together. Excuse the number of photos but I'm very excited to see parts in colour for once and they did a great job on the skins, pretty well metal finished. Quote
KatoKid Posted February 6, 2015 Author Posted February 6, 2015 After the doors were back together I went to the panel shop and hung the doors and built them up with latches and window frames as well as the quarter windows and all the front sheet metal so they could start hanging and aligning. Looks good to see the car with everything on it for the first time! The rear hatch is pretty good, just a small bit of visible rust in the bottom corner where the rubber window seal sits but again the shop wasn't happy and suggested that the bottom section of the frame was removed.....and there was some rust under the double skin that supports the lock...so glad we did. As with the doors this will all get blasted, etched and colour before going back together. I'm impressed with their desire to do the job properly as they want to be proud to put their name to it, which is great but I'm also conscious that every time they suggest something it costs me more....oh well at least I can sleep at night knowing its going to be the best it possibly can. Quote
reverendzed Posted February 6, 2015 Posted February 6, 2015 Great job and really the only way to do a full resto - You'll have many years of enjoyment out of a car that has this amount of details put into the panel work. Excited to see colour on it! Cheers, Rev Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted February 7, 2015 Administrators Posted February 7, 2015 It really is the only way to take care of the rust bug properly. Wouldn't want to have a nice new paint job blister again and rust bubbles come back through. Quote
Moderators PB260Z Posted February 7, 2015 Moderators Posted February 7, 2015 Your's a great build, agree 100% about do it properly. I still remember the sign in the metal shop at school. Pride of Workmanship Do It Once - Do It Well Build a Better Australia Quote
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