Restoration or freshen up or...........

[NickF]

Owners of our cars have different ways of going about getting their cars ready for the road hybrid,nut and bolt, concours etc

Some  a mixture, restore bodywork and running gear, modifying brakes and suspension. Some to something approaching as the car left the factory.

I'm wondering what the preferred way of going about the process is.

I've always gone about previous rebuilds replacing metal as required, stripping and cleaning parts and only replacing when I can't get original. 

The pictures below don't do anything, clean and repair(my preference) or nut and bolt

Your thoughts please

Nick

[AndBir]

I suspect that in most cases the available budget and time as well as your own ability plays a big role in which direction is taken.

[NickF]

Maybe the question should be, all other considerations aside is there a preference for a sympathetic refresh 

or a nut and bolt restoration?

[smugley]

If you're got a few year's and well over $100k to spend go full restoration ! 

Otherwise just get it on the road and drive it . 

[gav240z]

I've gone with both approaches. My white 71 and red 72 are both rolling restorations. Where as #51 will be full concourse restoration and #150 will be done to a high standard, but maybe not full concourse like #51. It will be more of a modded 240z for fun but with the early bits I like.

[hmd]

4 hours ago, gav240z said:

I've gone with both approaches. My white 71 and red 72 are both rolling restorations. Where as #51 will be full concourse restoration and #150 will be done to a high standard, but maybe not full concourse like #51. It will be more of a modded 240z for fun but with the early bits I like.

Gav, you need to get 2 more. one to put in a RB26 turbo with flares and one to put in restomod 3.4L stroker to complete the set.

[AndBir]

8 hours ago, NickF said:

is there a preference for a sympathetic refresh 

or a nut and bolt restoration?

Whichever is chosen, the main area to be addressed is that of hidden rust in the "enclosed" parts of the chassis, body and roof (gutter) areas. Yes you can cut out what has penetrated through and is now visible however, my biggest fear is what can't be seen. If I was doing a high end restoration (or buying one) I would want to use a borescope to inspect the body shell cavities completely.

[gav240z]

30 minutes ago, hmd said:

Gav, you need to get 2 more. one to put in a RB26 turbo with flares and one to put in restomod 3.4L stroker to complete the set.

If I had the space I might be tempted..  but I'd probably rather build a 432-R replica over the restomod 3.4L stroker (money permitting of course!).

8 minutes ago, AndBir said:

Whichever is chosen, the main area to be addressed is that of hidden rust in the "enclosed" parts of the chassis, body and roof (gutter) areas. Yes you can cut out what has penetrated through and is now visible however, my biggest fear is what can't be seen. If I was doing a high end restoration (or buying one) I would want to use a borescope to inspect the body shell cavities completely.

Yeah fair call, I had originally intended to turn HS30 00150 into a rat rod and just drive it with the patina on display, but my OCD got in the way and as you dig you find more issues. It is sometimes easier, better to just do it right the first time. But time/money and goals all play a role.

[C.A.R.]

They are 50 years old and made out of recycled WW2 Mitsubishi Zeros and held together by owners hopes and dreams.
They can't be 'freshened up'. They require full and bolt restorations and if you think you can get away with anything less, you are kidding yourself.

[NickF]

34 minutes ago, AndBir said:

Whichever is chosen, the main area to be addressed is that of hidden rust in the "enclosed" parts of the chassis, body and roof (gutter) areas. Yes you can cut out what has penetrated through and is now visible however, my biggest fear is what can't be seen. If I was doing a high end restoration (or buying one) I would want to use a borescope to inspect the body shell cavities completely.

Cavities are problematic but seams are one of the biggest problems I don't think there is any process that successfully neutralises rust even if the body is chemically

stripped, zinc coated and epoxied there is no guarantee that the rust is eliminated, only encased.

The only sure way is to unstitch every thing.

Happy to be corrected

[NickF]

3 minutes ago, C.A.F. said:

They are 50 years old and made out of recycled WW2 Mitsubishi Zeros and held together by owners hopes and dreams.
They can't be 'freshened up'. They require full and bolt restorations and if you think you can get away with anything less, you are kidding yourself.

They don't require plated nuts and bolts 

[gav240z]

17 minutes ago, C.A.F. said:

They are 50 years old and made out of recycled WW2 Mitsubishi Zeros and held together by owners hopes and dreams.
They can't be 'freshened up'. They require full and bolt restorations and if you think you can get away with anything less, you are kidding yourself.

Yeah but asking you if they need rust work is like asking my hairdresser if I need a haircut or my scarf dealer if I need more scarfs.

[240ZBUILTBYME]

16 minutes ago, NickF said:

They don't require plated nuts and bolts 

I think replating hardware in acceptable condition is part of a nut and bolt restoration isn’t it? I wouldn’t be replacing every single but and bolt. It would be costly and unnecessary. 

it’s impossible to get every single bit of surface rust in seams etc unless you can unpick every panel without damaging anything and restitch the entire car back together. Often best you can do is encapsulate it and stop it from progressing. Correct me if I’m wrong.

my approach/plan for rust is to unpick and replace any major section that has rust on the outside, as if it’s poked it’s head out it’s likely worse underneath. So while each major panel/component is off the internals will get cleaned and coated. Then new panel goes on, cross fingers it’s good for another 50 years. 

[240ZBUILTBYME]

Considering how much rust even some of the dry state cars in the US often have, I think if you’re going to bother doing any bodywork and repaint the car, as @C.A.F. says you’re kidding yourself if you think you can get away with less than a full restoration. 

[OdinZ]

3 hours ago, gav240z said:

Yeah but asking you if they need rust work is like asking my hairdresser if I need a haircut or my scarf dealer if I need more scarfs.

I thought Lachlan was all of the above, so the answer is: yes, yes, and definitely yes!

[NickF]

4 hours ago, gav240z said:

Yeah but asking you if they need rust work is like asking my hairdresser if I need a haircut or my scarf dealer if I need more scarfs.

Gav I'm impressed very that you have a scarf dealer