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C.A.R.

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C.A.R. last won the day on May 20

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About C.A.R.

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    Victoria
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    Taking care of business...

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Community Answers

  1. C.A.R.

    Panel gaps

    C.A.R. replied to NickF's topic in Body work

    We aim for a 5mm panel gap.
  2.    JDM-TOY reacted to a post in a topic: Need help finishing off my 260Z build. Melbourne.
  3.    Enzo reacted to a post in a topic: My Blue 260Z 2Seater
  4.    Enzo reacted to a post in a topic: Need help finishing off my 260Z build. Melbourne.
  5.    OdinZ reacted to a post in a topic: Need help finishing off my 260Z build. Melbourne.
  6.    gav240z reacted to a post in a topic: Need help finishing off my 260Z build. Melbourne.
  7. C.A.R.
  8.    OdinZ reacted to a post in a topic: Need help finishing off my 260Z build. Melbourne.
  9. C.A.R.
    2-seater or 2+2? If you want to bring it down to Moe 3825, we can finish it off for you.
  10. C.A.R.
    Updates?
  11.    OdinZ reacted to a post in a topic: My Blue 260Z 2Seater
  12.    OdinZ reacted to a post in a topic: HS30-00171
  13.    OdinZ reacted to a post in a topic: My Blue 260Z 2Seater
  14.    JDM-TOY reacted to a post in a topic: HS30-00171
  15. C.A.R.
    Here we go again...
  16. C.A.R.
    With the repairs complete, we spent a week or so making the panels fit nicely adjusting the panel gaps to 5mm. The body was then scuffed with 240g and given a fresh coat of 2k Epoxy. After this it went off the to paint shop!
  17. C.A.R.
    The 260Z's original front valance was munted - bent, dented and loaded with filler over 5mm thick. I didn't have a spare available, so we canalized the mounts and made a new one:
  18. C.A.R.
    The guards had a lot of damage once the paint & filler was removed, so we set about panel beating them straight, before we reinstalled the rear guard brace.
  19. C.A.R.
    To continue, the doors and guards came back from being media blasted and the repairs continued with the door hinge plates being prepped and reinstalled, the door skins had new bottoms fabricated and TIG welded into place. The frames and skins were painted on the inside with KBS Rust Seal to protect them from any future moisture, then they were joined back together.
  20. C.A.R.
    It's held in place by a metal tab down on the chassis rail.
  21. C.A.R.
    Are you blind?
  22. C.A.R.
    Holy thread revival, Batman!
  23. C.A.R.
    It's genuine and you can still buy them new from Nissan.
  24.    C.A.R. reacted to a post in a topic: Front struts are different 55mm types
  25. C.A.R.
    LH is indeed incorrect. Can yo see evidence of it being modified? Did you ask your RW inspector why does it matter? As long as no part of the hose assembly is touching anything, it's performing the same function. There's no need to change the strut. No. That's not correct. There is no such shim for that purpose - perhaps clarify with him what he means. What 'I think' he's talking about the anti-rattle shim that goes between the brake pad & the caliper piston. They do go missing, but are easy enough to obtain through someone like Stewart Wilkins at SW Motorsport. RW Inspectors are a strange breed - they almost always focus on some obscure issue, while missing something else obvious...
  26. C.A.R.
    Indeed I was. They've just updated the forum & it's borked the latest images for some reason...
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