Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi all

Really looking forward to getting this project moving and getting all of your input and advice along the way!

Names Ryan, I have been a lurker on here for a very many years now. I am the long time owner of a 1971 240z here in Perth. Vin is HS30-001063

I have owned the car for 10 years. When I bought the car it was in rough condition, tried to get it running to enjoy for a while but the previous owner had neglected it too much. So I decided not to waste money or time and wait for a ground up resto. Then it took me 8 years to find a decent space to start the resto (my dads new shed). 

I started the tear down in late 2018 but then had my son so it went on the back burner for another 1.5 years. Now I am almost finished the tear down and excited to get some real work done. Unfortunately I have another baby due in November! Damn! Lol 

I have also started a YouTube channel to document the restoration. At the moment they’re pretty boring dismantle videos but I plan to make them better quality and more exciting in the future. Your support would mean the world to me!


About the car:

History unknown, bought it from a very energetic guy who pretty much ran it into the ground, was completely neglected and unmaintained. I knew I wanted to do a full restomod however, so this was not an issue for me.

Car has a L20 engine and may be an originally automatic gearbox, hence the L20 swap and that the gear lever barely lines up with the hole in the trans tunnel. L20 will be thrown in the bin.

Car is green originally and has had a terrible quality respray. 

Car had a relatively minor front end collsion, bent sugar scoop/front bumper support and some light repairs to radiator support

Basically everything on the car needs replacing/restoration, nothing is reusable in a sense I can just rebolt it on the restored car.

Plans for the car:

Due to the car not having the original engine I see no point in going back to stock original. may as well create the car I want, so many things will not be stock

- Color change, unsure as to color just yet but leaning toward original datsun white or a pearl white

- L28 stroked

- Triple Weber set up but thinking of keeping SU's initially to save some $$$

- BC Coilovers, techno toy tuning 3 point strut brace in front and 3 point strut brace in rear

- Initially all suspension components will be restores and reused to save $$$ (however I havent ruled out installing some pretty techno toy tuning/ apex engineering components at a later date)

- Brake upgrade to front and disc upgrade to rear. not going big brakes as I dont like big rims on the 240z

- Custom interior - I am an upholsterer by trade and am going to be doing the interior myself and upgrading it. Think Alcantara and leather 

- wheels are undecided but something of the period, watanabes/rotas etc 

- Fender Mirrors for that classic japanese sports car look

- Majority of the chrome will be painted in a satin black, I am not a chrome fan unfortunately.... (I know this will upset many of you)


Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 176
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Posts

Nice knowing you Ryan - see you in 20 years

Also picked up some shiny new bumpers from bumper automobile out of Vietnam. Much cheaper to buy these than restore mine. Very impressed with the quality.  

Well sorry it’s taken time to get back to updating the needle sitcho.  but this little thing has been keeping me busy, she arrived last week.  But I did get round to trying to get the

Posted Images

31 minutes ago, AndBir said:

If rust has not been previously cut out then consider this new supplier for replacement panels etc https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/https://kfvintagejdm.com/product-category/datsun/

Keep an eye out for feedback on a members order from this supplier : 


Thanks for that AndBir, Lots and lots of rust. I saw one of your posts about these being really good quality. I’m thinking of getting a few of their panels as they have some that MSA don’t make. Such as the front and rear rocker reinforcement that sandwiches between the inner and outer, plus the full frame rail instead of just the straight bits.  

21 minutes ago, AndBir said:

Before you do bin it, check what cylinder head is on the L20 as it my be one of the ones that are good for modified L6 engines.

Will do, I’ll post photos and details when I get to pulling the engine/gearbox apart, might be able to sell it to cover 0.0001% of the resto costs! 

Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
Forgot to say thanks
Link to post
Share on other sites

If you have a look at episode 4 I go through some of the rust in the roof. Has anyone repaired any rust in the roof like this? Ive seen a couple of roof reskins on this forum but nothing overly in depth on what is repairable and what is not. I also have rust in the A pillars at the end of the drip rail panel (photos below), I'm guessing its worse inside.....:'( Anybody seen rust in this area? I've tried searching but cant find anything on auzcar.

Im thinking about having a restoration shop do the repairs on the roof, pillars and cowl sections as they are quite complex and beyond the skill of a novice such as myself. I feel confident enough to do most of the other rust on my own.


Link to post
Share on other sites

Welcome Ryan. 
My car had a few rust spots along the passenger side in the turret. At the top of the A pillar I could cut it out and replace a section. Probably not as bad as yours though. Also the end of the gutters on both sides had some rust that I managed to cut out and replace sections. Rust was very localised. I borrowed an inspection camera and had a good poke around with in to make sure I had not missed any other spots. I also re soldered the body joints. 



Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, CBR Jeff said:

Welcome Ryan. 
My car had a few rust spots along the passenger side in the turret. At the top of the A pillar I could cut it out and replace a section. Probably not as bad as yours though. Also the end of the gutters on both sides had some rust that I managed to cut out and replace sections. Rust was very localised. I borrowed an inspection camera and had a good poke around with in to make sure I had not missed any other spots. I also re soldered the body joints. 



Thanks for the feedback Jeff. I have the same spots you had at the rear end of the drip rail too. Yeah I feel like my roof rust is pretty well spread, especially the LHS I showed in the vid. I feel like I need to strip the entire roof to ensure the rust is properly eliminated. Last thing I want is 5 years after shes painted bubbles start appearing.... I do have a clean roof skin donor to transplant if it comes to that. 


Link to post
Share on other sites
17 hours ago, AndBir said:

Thanks for thinking of me AndBir! I do indeed need these but ad says local sydney pick up... and also can get them half price from MSA! Im going to be purchasing a heap of panels  from MSA/KF very soon, just waiting for that little oz battler to get a bit stronger vs the USD$. I think I'll pull the trigger around 0.75c...8)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Sooooo thought I would share the demons hiding in my z....

Im hoping I can do an exorcist on them soon. This car is extremely rusty.  I feel it is worth trying to save though. Let me know if you disagree.

I plan to tackle the majority of the rust repairs on my own, which to be honest is pretty daunting when I look at all the photos I took for this post... Just so you are aware Ive never welded in my life. I am  mechanically minded and I have worked in a panel and paint shop before as a shit kicker.

"hey Ryan sand this for me." "Hey Ryan block this for me." "Hey Ryan sand this again for me." You get the picture....needless to say I didnt learn much besides that sanding sucks!  My Uncle is a panel beater and my dad is a spray painter so between them I should have enough guidance to get me through this.

Im going to do each part of the car in seperate posts as there are so many photos and so you guys can quote on each if need be.

First cab off the rank is the cowl section. rusted all the way across where the lower cowl panel meets the firewall. Not sure how common it is for these to rust here














Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
Link to post
Share on other sites

Next up we have the Dog Legs made of Bog, the outer sills that dont exist and rear arches that have all been very dodgily repaired by PO

Dog legs are made of bog on both sides


Rear Arches LHS and RHS, Inner and Outer are toast


Found this nice little panel at the front end of the LHS rear wheel arches....


removed and found a nice little portal to another dimension, the dimension of rust....


Inside view, looks like lots of bog and dodgy panel work (not really visible in the photo)


I will finish off sharing the rust demons tomorrow, I need sleep....


Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
Link to post
Share on other sites

So round 2 of my rust reality...

Floors are really bad, PO just kept adding new layers and filling it with silicone.


Tool storage compartments also have rust. Maybe I should have just listed the places that dont have rust? Would have been quicker



Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
Link to post
Share on other sites

 Frame Rails on both sides will need replacing, LHS is significantly worse


There was already a big rust hole there, I cut the hole bigger to take a peak inside, was surprised to find.... lot of rust inside.....;D

Also take note of the nice rust spot on the shock tower panel! 


Battery tray area got off scott free, few little spots but nothing scary. 


Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
Link to post
Share on other sites

So if you havent already noticed the LHS of the car is wwwwwwaaaaayyyyyy worse than the right, and the doors are no exception, these photos are only the LHS door as RHS only needs a patch panel at the bottom like most doors.


Nice bit of silicone in the corner, courtesy of PO

this door will be completely replaced with a new door from all muscle car parts

Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
Link to post
Share on other sites

Just when you thought, Surely he hasnt got anymore rust.... This is the scariest bit for me. THE ROOF....

LHS (at least its consistent...) of roof is pretty bad all along rain gutters


Unfortunately LHS roof frame has been badly rusted.


small amount of rust on LHS of rear roof support coming through


Rust forming all along the top windscreen lip, Im unsure as to whether this is surface rust or coming from the inside.... anyone care to comment?


top of rear quarter window on LHS is pretty bad


A Pillars appear to be rusting from the inside. this is really scary stuff, if anyone has repaired rust in the A pillars please let me know how it went for you?


Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
Link to post
Share on other sites

So thats all so far. Oh I also have rusty front fenders in the usual spot at the bottom, nothing crazy. Most of these I knew about already, the ones that I didnt know about till after stripping the car were the Cowl rust, A pillars and Roof support structure. And they just happen to be the scariest parts... Not going to lie its pretty demoralising knowing how bad this car is...

But so far my plan goes like this (please let me know your thoughts and any advice you can give me!):

  1. Build a Chassis jig, using  this is to make sure the car is straight and level before I brace it and also so that when i come to replace floors, chassis rails, frame rails etc the car stays square and the bolt holes line up. using these plans from ConVerTT over on classiczcars https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/61482-240z-gets-jiggy/
  2. Brace chassis while its on the Jig
  3. Build rotisserie
  4. Off to restoration shop for stripping and epoxy primer. I was considering using something like easyphos instead of epoxy as I dont know how long its going to take me to complete the rust repairs and bodywork and I have read that its not good to have the car sitting in epoxy. Resto shop guy advised easyphos only lasts about 6 months then rust starts up again. He advised car is ok to sit in epoxy as long as it is in an enclosed shed and covered to protect from any moisture in the air. Your Thoughts?
  5. Am thinking its best for the Resto shop to complete repairs on roof, pillars and cowl sections due to complexity of the structures. I think i need to do a roof reskin as to properly repair and rustproof the roof substructure the skin has to come off, chances of reusing the same skin? I would think slim to none. So I bought a donor roof with a clean skin, my roof structure will need to be repaired. thoughts anyone?
  6. Receive the car back from resto shop with repaired cowl and roof and begin long journey to repair all remaining rust.

Which would be:

  • Floors and chassis rails from MSA but considering using the floors from kfvintagejdm as they seem more original and have the front and rear toe boards which i will definitely need. Possibly will need to replace seat mounts, need to see what condition they are in after unpicking them.
  • Frame rails from MSA
  • Outer Sills from MSA but also considering kfvintagejdm
  • Front Sill Reinforcement pieces from kfvintagejdm
  • Inner and outer rear wheel arches from MSA
  • Rear slam panel from MSA
  • Rear Valance Panel from MSA
  • Remove Tool compartment skins, patch rust and reinstall 
  • Patch Tyre well 
  • Remove battery tray and do custom bolt in solution
  • Remove radiator support with intention to repair and reuse (has anyone successfully done this?), failing that new piece from fourways engineering ($1800 before shipping!!! will be trying to avoid)
  • Complete new LHS door from all muscle parts
  • reskin RHS door after proper rust proofing of the shell
  • patch front fenders with MSA front fender patch



Edited by 240ZBUILTBYME
Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Create New...