Holistic Approach To Handling. Done Right The First Time!

[Cozza]

You don't need any other adjustable parts. For reference all Group S car in historic run non-adjustable and stock suspension bits except for spring and shocks.

Good info, so what alignment geometry do you run?

 

For a 240z King Springs recommend

KDFL08 for the the front which are progressive and,

KDRL09 for the rear which are linear.

Unless they’ve changed since I bought mine 4 years ago?

 

BTW, here’s a link to a gumtree ad for the rears.

 

https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/st-clair/brakes-suspension/king-springs-kdrl-09-x1-pair/1106285691

 

Pending price, I’d be grabbing those Illuminas too.

Edited November 1, 2017 by Cozza

[hmd]

Good info, so what alignment geometry do you run?

 

 

as much camber as I can which is just over 2deg at the front and less than 2deg at the rear.

little toe-in the rear and 0 toe at front.

[dat2kman]

All this "fancy" stuff just means big big dollars.

 

Go look at, and study, some of the Group S Datsun z cars.

All suspension arms are standard factory, the struts are standard heights, spring perches may have been lowered on the strut tubes, tyey run a 6" wide rim, etc

There are a few minor alterations done, but all are very simple.

 

Heres the interesting bit,,,

They go faster, handle better, and look more standard, than, the majority of the highly modified for performance Z cars around.

[260DET]

What PZG302 said.

 

As for Jason's comment about Sc Supercars, take that with a grain of salt. Maybe two grains lol.

[Cozza]

as much camber as I can which is just over 2deg at the front and less than 2deg at the rear.

little toe-in the rear and 0 toe at front.

Thanks, and castor?

[hmd]

Thanks, and castor?

 

AS much as I could (I can't remember what deg), making steering extremely heavy.

[KatoKid]

Also, annoyingly in VIC, if you have coilovers,they can't be height adjustable (need to be welded!)

 

 

Not true. My car has just gone through VASS engineering with height adjustable coil overs with no issues.

[DreamZproject]

Ah yeah, if its engineered it should be fine.

[DreamZproject]

Have I found the right item here? 

 

The picture isnt just the insert so I'm wondering if its just a generic stock image, or if the inserts can slot out?

 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Koni-Shock-Absorber-Set-Front-Rear-for-Nissan-300ZX-Sport-Yellow/142546639802?hash=item2130711bba:g:~TIAAOSwA3dYg4BU

[Cozza]

You want 4 of the 8641-1060 sport shocks

That kit has 2 x 8641-1060’s and 2 x 26-1248’s I have no idea if they will suit your needs but I’m guessing not.

So, you’re half way there.

[C.A.R.]

Robbie, you can call Top Performance in Vermont & order 2 pairs of the 8641-1060's.

Or buy Doug's Tokico's (which will be more than adequate for what you want) for a lot less than a full set of Koni's.

 

And FWIW, if you want to properly engineer & improve a S30 chassis handling, you remove all the stock components, throw them in the bin & start again.
No amount of top end springs & dampers will fix the inherent design flaws of the standard S30 suspension.

The world has moved on from 70's suspension design...
 

Annnnd I've probably wasted my time typing this.

Edited November 2, 2017 by Lurch ™

[DreamZproject]

Ahh yes i see, the different part numbers now. 

Heyyy come come now. I follow basically all your advice. Tbh I was trying to mostly copy yours and mossy's set ups, both of which i think seem ideal which is why i was favouring the koni's. I'd just go a smidgen lower and firmer...

I understand better now that its a little less 'Lego set' than my Subaru.

At the moment I'm just trying to buy up all the parts I'll need so that when the car arrives there's no waiting around for months waiting for something to come from Japan...

[nat0_240_chevZ]

Mmmm an interesting read, some great sources of information posting on this thread but appears to be no inkling of advice offered, heard.

 

Probly the best question of all.....

How do you like obsurd amounts of bump steer with your coffee? And what measures /mods do you envisage you'll do to alleviate or negate it and other, lets say, induced geometry concerns?

 

Parts lego, is only half the issues at hand.

 

Dreamproject also sums up the first post, but not the responses to the offered advice /suggestions. As that was what asked for....

 

Spectating from the bleachers.

Nat0

[DreamZproject]

Not really sure what information i haven't heard here. I kmow that coilovers are the "best" but most expensive option, so i won't opt for that. Bump steer is something I'm not so sure about so more information on it would be good, from what i have read you relocate the lca mounting point (nothing need to be bought as far as i am aware).

The formula I'm now wanting to go with is a tried and tested, so i have taken some peoples approach, but obviously not everyones.

[d3c0y]

The Leggo is there, I just recommend the best value for money ones which you said were too expensive.

 

Here are some cheap crap ones like you have on your Subaru: BC Racing Kit $1400 - http://justjap.com/bc-racing-coilover-suspension-kit-nissan-s30-240z-260z-280z-55mm-strut.html

 

T3 stuff is pretty popular too:

• T3 coilover conversion $440USD - https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/four-corner-weld-coilover-kit-datsun-240z
• T3 complete coilover converted strut with Konis $945USD: https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/front-coilover-conversion-datsun-240z-260z-and-280z 

Edited November 2, 2017 by d3c0y

[DreamZproject]

Ohhh they are intriguing decoy. I might consider something like that instead of sectioning when it comes to it. (After roadworthy).

[d3c0y]

How does it go Lurch? 

 

[GregTas]

For coil overs I got the Koni tubes at $220 a pair from SW Motorsport in Vic. A Datsun person.

 

Got the tops from Techno Toy in US. For the front adjustable (by rotating) tops with needle rollers. For the rear just the machined aluminium block to support the spring. Using original strut tops for rear.

 

Koni yellows 280z inserts from SW as well. $550 a pair.

 

Springs from Kings at $220 a pair.

 

It does all add up to a bit. Still about $2300 going this way and you do have to do all the strut mods yourself or pay someone extra to do it.

Edited November 3, 2017 by GregTas

[DreamZproject]

Ok, so some decisions have been made, and I've probably made the 'easiest' option for the time being and am queuing up Dougs Tokico's. 

I'm now looking in to the king low springs but have a brief question. Am I right in thinking that because I have an early 260 (#808) I should be going for the 240z spring option? (KD-FL08 and KD-RL09)

 

What would the main differences between these be anyway?

[C.A.R.]

 Am I right in thinking that because I have an early 260 (#808) I should be going for the 240z spring option? (KD-FL08 and KD-RL09)

 

Correct.

The later 260Z springs are longer (taller) - it'd look like a 4WD if you fitted them.

[DreamZproject]

Hmmmm... now that is a thought!

Cheers Lock.

[hmd]

I have a set of these king springs somewhere in the garage.

[MaygZ]

Is there a reason that no-one has mentioned Otomoto's coilovers? Being the tight bottom that I am I know I didn't spend lots on them ($500 from my failing memory) and they seem a very good quality.

300kg springs and koni yellows should be the right set up for my car - which is pretty much the same requirements as the OP.

I am considering adjustable lower arms front and back though, primarily for the 10 inch rubber.

 

Hi everybody :-)

[C.A.R.]

Is there a reason that no-one has mentioned Otomoto's coilovers? Being the tight bottom that I am I know I didn't spend lots on them ($500 from my failing memory) and they seem a very good quality.

300kg springs and koni yellows should be the right set up for my car - which is pretty much the same requirements as the OP.

I am considering adjustable lower arms front and back though, primarily for the 10 inch rubber.

 

Hi everybody :-)

 

Last we spoke your Z is getting engineered, correct mate?

 

It's highly unlikely that any Mechanic performing the RW Inspection will pass a car with coilovers and/or adjustable suspension components, without an engineers inspection.

The goal here is to get it on the road with as little hassle as possible, then Robbie can decide what to do after he's driven the Z for a while.

[KatoKid]

 

Hi everybody :-)

 

Jesus....he's alive!