AndBir Posted February 5, 2017 Author Posted February 5, 2017 Took some more of the internal trim off and no more concerns so far. Not sure why they had the two speaker option on the trim with the upper one not used and therefore the black paint on the metal behind it? KatoKid 1 Quote
Moderators PB260Z Posted February 5, 2017 Moderators Posted February 5, 2017 Hi Mate Those areas are looking very tidy. Is the areaaroung the hatch lock as good the taillight panel ? Cheers PB Quote
AndBir Posted February 5, 2017 Author Posted February 5, 2017 Some surface rust just around the screws holding the hatch locking catch: Other areas look almost brand new : Fuel filler area with flash : Quote
AndBir Posted February 6, 2017 Author Posted February 6, 2017 Managed to get the passenger side interior panels off without breaking anything: Quote
AndBir Posted February 7, 2017 Author Posted February 7, 2017 Found some rust at the base of the quarter window(s) inside the shell : Used some Eastwood internal frame coating to spray the area using the flexible tube nozzle : Quote
KatoKid Posted February 7, 2017 Posted February 7, 2017 Still can't get over how good this car is! Quote
Mike260LW Posted February 7, 2017 Posted February 7, 2017 Yep, this is a very tidy car from a rust perspective. I'm a big fan of early ('74) 260Z. Lovin' the "as built" photos. Helps me put mine back together - it all came in boxes!! Quote
AndBir Posted February 8, 2017 Author Posted February 8, 2017 Had a look in the rear driver's side wheel arch to see what surface rust was there from where the stone chip coating had come off. Nice to see some of the original paint colour : Interesting the lack of paint and stone chip coating as you get near the guard : Note : The bolt/plate is an aftermarket seatbelt mounting point when some inertia reel seat belts where fitted at one time. Quote
AndBir Posted February 9, 2017 Author Posted February 9, 2017 Decided to remove the bolts holding the front sway bar in place (one at a time) to see 1) how seized some of the bolts may be and 2) to see if the internal frame coating had covered the ends of the bolts. : Looks like it has good coverage : Only partial coverage : no frame coating paint At least the covered parts of the bolts look to be in good nick and all 4 came out OK. Quote
CBR Jeff Posted February 19, 2017 Posted February 19, 2017 Looking good Andy. I very happy for you that the car is as good as it is. Jeff Quote
AndBir Posted May 7, 2017 Author Posted May 7, 2017 Removed the L28 and transported it to LCR in Warragul. Had been contemplating going with triples and saw these on Les's bench, so added this option to the rebuild. CBR Jeff 1 Quote
CBR Jeff Posted May 7, 2017 Posted May 7, 2017 Well Andy you are now committed to the build. Nice. Jeff Quote
chris240 Posted May 7, 2017 Posted May 7, 2017 (edited) In the words of Sean Connery cira 1968, very shecksy.. Edited May 7, 2017 by chris240 CBR Jeff 1 Quote
AndBir Posted August 19, 2017 Author Posted August 19, 2017 Not much progress to date - replaced some bushes. And started on the engine bay where, over time, spilt brake fluid? seems to have stuffed the paint and allowed some surface rust to develop. Quote
AndBir Posted November 16, 2017 Author Posted November 16, 2017 Took the gearbox out to give it an external clean up as well as replacing the transmission insulator. Will have to also clean down (degrease) the body transmission tunnel as it appears that over time oil leaking from the oil pressure sender has been blown back over everything so a mix of old oil and dust/dirt. Gearbox has some number markings : Drained the oil from the gearbox and it looked nice and clean however the drain plug magnet showed quite a bit of steel "fillings"! Quote
AndBir Posted December 3, 2017 Author Posted December 3, 2017 Picked up my rebuilt L28 engine from LCR - now to get working on the rest of the car! : Flat top pistons which, with welded chambers, give 10.77 : 1 compression ratio : Welded up chambers of the N42 head. Ponyo240z, CBR Jeff and gav240z 3 Quote
Moderators PB260Z Posted December 24, 2017 Moderators Posted December 24, 2017 Gidday Having a Les Collins built L28 sitting waiting would certainly motivate me to get the rest done. Cheers CBR Jeff 1 Quote
AndBir Posted March 4, 2018 Author Posted March 4, 2018 Been a while but work and family matters prevented me getting back to the car. Fitted the Kia Sportage door weatherstrips and reasonably happy with their "fit" - my only concern is that the doors are harder to close now however that maybe is just the different feel due to the totally perished nature of the old seals. Removed the rear taillights and as expected the seals here are stuffed. Given the ridiculous prices of replacements I thought I may just cut some myself using some gasket material from Rare Spares (http://www.rarespares.net.au/rarespares/ProductPage.aspx?product=LENSGM) - anyone used this? I would also use this for the headlight gaskets. Took the inside door lining off and found most of the window runner channel felt lying at the bottom of the door along with a lot of fine silt/dust - there is some surface rust in various places but mostly at the very bottom "channel" of the door. jeff43 1 Quote
AndBir Posted March 4, 2018 Author Posted March 4, 2018 Also took the quarter windows out to check for rust and it all looks good, may have to treat the spot welds on the window frames though. Even using the JIS screwdriver the lower screws were quite hard to get off due to some surface rust and being a "soft" metal it is difficult not to damage the screw head. The rubber seals look OK so I may just leave them as is and use a small bead of non setting mastic when re-installing them. I had to take off the rear sway/torsion bar to get better access to the bolts to remove the drive shaft - as expected the original rubber bushings have seen better days! Quote
AndBir Posted March 6, 2018 Author Posted March 6, 2018 Did Les put your motor on the dyno? Unfortunately not, but I am sure it will be good. From memory Les indicated from the previous builds he has done it would be around 200bhp at 6200rpm - however I think this was with the SU carbies, so not sure what it would be with the triple 45 Webers. Quote
AndBir Posted March 18, 2018 Author Posted March 18, 2018 Decided to strip off the remaining chrome from the tail light bezels. The chrome was very pitted, cracked etc. etc. I saw that chrome plating companies may not accept plastic items for re-plating if the old coatings are still on them so after some Googling I decided that Hydrochloric acid (32% HCl at Bunnings) was the better option to remove the chrome and the underlying copper compound. It still took some manual "scraping" to get some of it off. Now for the shock of what the cost is for re-plating. Any suggestions as to where to get them re-plated? (Places outside of VIC also, as they can easily be posted) Quote
Administrators gav240z Posted March 18, 2018 Administrators Posted March 18, 2018 I was looking at these guys but in the end bought aftermarket ones for my cars. http://www.aclassmetal.com.au Quote
AndBir Posted March 18, 2018 Author Posted March 18, 2018 I was looking at these guys but in the end bought aftermarket ones for my cars. http://www.aclassmetal.com.au Thanks, seems like re-chroming is the only option to be sure you get a decent set (for the 260Z style). Quote
AndBir Posted March 19, 2018 Author Posted March 19, 2018 Managed to source some NOS felt inner door belting ex Japan, probably not really cheaper than reproductions but looks very good quality. Now for the challenge of "surgically" removing the old and attaching the new! Quote
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