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Posted

What welder are you currently using Andrew ?

A supercrap auto gassless mig which was given to me, it hasn't got the proper temperature controls just "min" and "max" where min is still at 50amps which is kinda useless for thin metal.

Posted

Go see Richie at Allcraft Automotives in Moorabbin: 9532 2919

He's a RW inspector & is a Datsun guy - he'll be fair & reasonable.

Awesome! I'll give him a call in a few days as I've started more repairs  ::)

 

On a scale of 1-10 (10 being you should defiantly sell and buy a commodore) how bad would you say this is?

 

It's probably a bit better then what I was expecting which is good and the repairs done 10-15 years ago (I suspect) seem to be holding up ok.

 

post-103470-0-05705600-1465623158_thumb.jpg

 

post-103470-0-22463600-1465624002_thumb.jpg

 

post-103470-0-57175600-1465624005_thumb.jpg

 

post-103470-0-71233600-1465624009_thumb.jpg

  • Moderators
Posted (edited)

How bad is it, really hard to tell without really stripping it back - not something to rush into.

Sell and buy a Commodore - it is NEVER that bad

 

Cheers

 

PB

Edited by PB260Z
Posted

I'd say -100

I think not having a car would be better that a 10.

 

None of that will be to hard to repair. It will just take a bit of time a patience.

 

Sorry to here tlyou are getting the run around. keep at it though.

 

Jeff

Posted (edited)

Even a supercheap welder should be able to push out a half decent sheet metal weld. A bigger welder like a Lincoln really only gives you the ability to weld thicker materials for longer time. Welding isnt something that just comes easy! Especially welding thin materials, it might pay to really sit down and practice, practice and practice. And when you think you are pretty good keep practicing. Even boilermakers and welders will run a practice peice before they start a job and they weld every day!

 

Are you worried your welder has to little amperage or on min has to many amps ? 50 amps should be plenty to weld 1mm with a nice flat weld.

 

The rust isnt terrible but 1 is right on a led joint so that could be a little tricky.

Edited by blu260z
Posted

A supercrap auto gassless mig which was given to me, it hasn't got the proper temperature controls just "min" and "max" where min is still at 50amps which is kinda useless for thin metal.

q3iCWqE.jpg

 

 

giphy.gif

Posted (edited)

Even a supercheap welder should be able to push out a half decent sheet metal weld. A bigger welder like a Lincoln really only gives you the ability to weld thicker materials for longer time. Welding isnt something that just comes easy! Especially welding thin materials, it might pay to really sit down and practice, practice and practice. And when you think you are pretty good keep practicing. Even boilermakers and welders will run a practice peice before they start a job and they weld every day!

 

Are you worried your welder has to little amperage or on min has to many amps ? 50 amps should be plenty to weld 1mm with a nice flat weld.

 

The rust isnt terrible but 1 is right on a led joint so that could be a little tricky.

 

I feel that on the minimum setting it has too many amps as I just burn through if I touch the metal for more then half a second, I used a welder at my school to weld some sort of ornament for a mates project (similar thickness to the panels I've worked with) and I was able to get them welded up really neatly and not burn through whereas with my welder as soon as I touch a thin piece of metal poof it's gone. Is this something to do with going from gassed to gassless?

Edited by Andrew_L26
Posted

Gasless does burn hotter but not to the point of blowing though straight away. Most MIGs if any wont go much lower. Once you start getting lower you need to TIG weld. Its really hard to know as I havent used that type of machine.

Posted

Well, started ripping into the rear window more, it seems fine on the driver's side, the passengers side has had some serious hackory in the past but it's a fairly decent job. Got the interior panels off and had a good look from the inside. The passenger side dogleg has been replaced with a proper panel (and done well) whereas the window area was pretty hackky but it will do for the time being. Also was able to see that my sils are fine on the passenger side and are rusted on the drivers side, it feels mostly ok however there is a hole about 4-5cm on the bottom. I've rust converted everywhere and I'll get some primer where I can in the next few days. Looks like someone has spent stacks of money though. I can imagine a body shop charging plenty for this repair...

 

The images are looking up from the inside.

 

post-103470-0-25706400-1465828647_thumb.jpg

post-103470-0-52212400-1465828676_thumb.jpg

 

I'll get some more pictures up tomorrow!

 

Feeling pretty positive about the car now. I've come to realise that it may never be worth fully striping down due to the nature of the repairs. But hey, if it's not bubbling or getting any worse and I can get her on the road and enjoy the driving experience that will be good enough for me ????

 

Have a good one guys and girls!

 

Andrew

  • Moderators
Posted (edited)

Hi Andrew

 

Great to see that you are back into it.

Keep at it - you will get there.

 

Cheers

 

PB

Edited by PB260Z
Posted (edited)

Hi Andrew

 

Great to see that you are back into it.

Keep at it - you will get there.

 

Cheers

 

PB

Thanks PB!

 

I've finally gotten in contact with the girl that painted my z up! Turns out her dad did all the work between 2004-2006 and I spoke to her dad, he said that all major rust areas were cut out and new metal in, he did say that a few areas such as the rear hatch were acid washed and then bogged however he said that there wasn't much that was just bogged over. Apparently the repairs aren't perfect but there is metal everywhere (and bog was just used to cover his welds etc) he also said that he had the roadworthy inspector look at the work he did to the frame rails in 2006 (when it was re-registered) and they said it was fine however I think they have deteriorated since then. He sounded like he didn't want to do anything such as bogging over large rust areas because he didn't want his daughter to drive something that was dangerous etc. From what I've seen in the car this appears to be true and I don't see why he wouldn't tell the truth considering he isn't selling me the car. The car was kept around the Donald/Ballarat area after the repairs were done up until 2011 when it went down to Philip island. The girl is overseas but she said that she would send photos of the various repairs and the car before anything was done to it when she gets home which is fantastic!

 

It's really great to be finally able to know what the deal is with the car! I must also say that this girls hair is a very similar color to the car which explains a lot.

 

Also, I ordered one of these on eBay:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/121956705254

 

A 20$ 5meter 2mp borescope camera (with a light and everything) which will allow me to get a look inside the car, I'll get it into the frame rails, down under the sill, up into the roof and rear 3/4 panels which will give me a really really good idea of what I'm dealing with!

 

Have a great weekend!

Cheers, Andrew

 

Please enjoy this photo which explains why my car is a little odd...

 

post-103470-0-39059800-1466173723_thumb.png

Edited by Andrew_L26
Posted

I'm intrigued, how does that photo explain why your car is a little odd? Is it a selfie?

Not that there's anything wrong with that of course.

Posted

I'm intrigued, how does that photo explain why your car is a little odd? Is it a selfie?

Not that there's anything wrong with that of course.

 

Andrew wrote

 

"I've finally gotten in contact with the girl that painted my z up!"

 

So it must be her picture, or Andrew mistakingly posted a picture of himself from his private collection by accident, and if you did Andrew its all good, theres nothing wrong with that and you make a pretty woman.

Posted

Andrew wrote

 

"I've finally gotten in contact with the girl that painted my z up!"

 

So it must be her picture, or Andrew mistakingly posted a picture of himself from his private collection by accident, and if you did Andrew its all good, theres nothing wrong with that and you make a pretty woman.

Hahahaha, no no, this is a picture of the girl who painted up my z! I was just saying that her hair is the same color as the car! XD

Posted

I've decided to give my z a paint! I'm going to do it myself in Acrylic, I may not be able to get the best finish but I should be able to get the car looking decent. I'm thinking of doing it in the R34 Bayside Blue colour which should look fantastic, I'm also going to re-do my front rail repair properly, now that I have access to my schools machining shop I will be able to fabricate a proper section to fit in as well as a far better MIG welder (Cigweld Transmig 170T) which is fantastic to use and far far easier to get a good weld, especially with thinner metal!

 

If anyone has any suggestions for a colour then let me know!

 

Cheers,

Andrew

Posted

That green is quite nice!

The reason I'm going to respray it (possibly before a rwc and rego) is because the vinyl wrap looks ultra tacky and as though it's hiding something and unfortunately in some areas where the wrap comes off so does the paint. I'll see how it goes once it's all off though,if there is only a few spots then I'll deal with it with color matched paint otherwise I'll wait for better weather to respray.

Posted

i know bayside blue in base coat is a 3 layer and it waterborne is just 2 layer so unsure how u will go in acrylic. It's a pretty vibrant colour and it's not cheap to make either. gl with it though.

Posted

I would consider painting it in 2 pack if I were you. If you are going to go to the effort of prepping it, 2 pack might cost slightly more, but it is MUCH easier to paint and comes up much much nicer. Worth considering anyway.

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