AndBir

I understand the Service Manual has, Section BF : Body, that has the underbody alignment. This is the one for the 260Z (probably USA as well) :

I do not recall having seen this one before : 260Z 2 seater $35,000 Negotiable In Oakford, Western Australia https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/oakford/cars-vans-utes/datsun-260z-2-seater/1164520590 Very original, new interior and suspension, body in great condition with a few Minor rust spots.

I thought the same thing re the metal height. The L28 I have has the metal for both the "L28" and the "######" being the same height. Maybe the L24 was different?

My 74 260Z Nissan tag is also held on with JIS (phillips head type) screws - as far as I know this is the original fitment.

Based on the wheel base the reproduction is for a 2 seater and your original is for a 2+2. The very weathered plate on my 2 seater 74 260z says Engine No. and Car No. as per the USA reproduction. Also the corners are square on mine.

It is great to get feedback from someone who has used Kings Springs and found out what their shortcomings are - saves others having to go through the same issues.

Here are the 'full' specs I have for the 1974 model 260Z springs : Interesting to see the European ones are shorter and "firmer" but have similar loaded heights to non Europe variants.

Love the "out-take" at the end of that video

I see that the Nissan Service Bulletin Vol197 shows that the early 260Zs (1974s) had 106lb/in springs front and rear whilst the same models in Europe had 120lb/in springs fitted.

It is mentioned in the Overview of Engine Heads on this forum (and talked about on various other forums) that : "The N42 heads have hardened steel seats so it can run unleaded petrol. The head was used on fully dished pistons which meant that there was no quench in the design. It has been stated by some forum members that if you run an L28 with flat top pistons with an N42 head and standard petrol that you may experience some knocking. It has also been said that the N42 is the preferable head for high compression NA motor because it already has large ports, BUT the chambers need modification for higher compression, better flame burn & better quench."

Not sure if this lives up to the seller's claim : http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Datsun-Z-240Z-260Z-280Z-Grey-Original-Color-OEM-Tail-Light-Panel-Grill-Paint-Can-/401415643188?hash=item5d763ca034:g:zt4AAOSw44BYPyao

Looks like they did a very rough patch up job, this is what the inside of the lower rear double skinned section of the front guards is meant to look like (including "period" surface rust) - so you got it right with your opening: Water draining down from the windscreen cowl flows down to this area and through the double skinned section and this does block up especially when the rubber seal on the panel breaks down allowing dirt etc. flicked up be the wheels to enter this area - not a good design.

Pity they are not in NSW however these cowl panels look in good shape should you find you need a straight one. https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/berwick/auto-body-parts/datsun-240z-260z-scuttle-cowl-panels-/1162776558

.These diagrams may assist as well : Also in a PDF : 260z74.pdf

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Any particular area of the wiring system you are looking at/for?

Did the 240z have rubber backed carpet in the footwell or was this an "option"? Whilst not a 240z this is what my early 260z has on the passenger side. Shows the slots in the carpet (that Gav mentions) for the metal brackets to secure them to the floor. In the above photo you can also see the two large metal "press studs" at the front of the carpet used to attach the carpet to the front of the footwell.

The pics below outline some rear suspension changes mentioned in the Datsun 1973 Service Bulletin covering changes from the 73 240z to the first model of the 260z :

Andyk_79 advised for a daily driver it is not worth upgrading. However, contrary to the "daily driver" in your thread title, if you want to have more brakes when 'racing' and want a bolt on kit then maybe upgrade using a Wilwood kit?

I am interested if you find a fabricator/supplier in Aus.

Pic 3 seems to be the body ?gutter? of the upper left rear hatch without any internal rubber seal. The slam panel could be original - looks similar to mine :

According to the ZcarDepot website, the bolts are meant to all be : "... fine thread metric M10 with small (JIS) heads...". https://zcardepot.com/rear-control-arm-transverse-bolt-kit-240z-260z-280z.html So maybe someone has retapped them?

Have you checked you are getting enough fuel flow back along your return fuel line - maybe it is blocked / restricted?

Dejavu? http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/16353-sluggish-acceleration-misfiring-after-5-to-10-mins-traffic-jam/ http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/16146-1972-240z-fuel-percolation-at-traffic-jam-or-long-idle-time/

240z nissan datsun bonnet 260z $2000, Salisbury, Sth Aust https://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/salisbury/auto-body-parts/240z-nissan-datsun-bonnet-260z/1161475648 For a 45+ yo panel this must be as good as they get, i know it was hard finding a spare 20years ago so it must be impossible to find a good original one now. This ones been in my shipping container away from moisture for 15+years and was someone elses spare in storage well b4 i got it. Ur welcome to inspect but time wasters are not wanted. There are no signs of rust or repair. I have stacks of zed parts. If ur interested u can: 1. Tell me what u need 2. Tell me what ull pay Failure to do both those things and u will not get a response. I have almost 4 260z 2plus2 parts car.