Groundhog

Any follow up on this topic. My original lines have a "gold" CAD colour finish. Replacement tubing that I can get is silver. Has anyone managed to source tubing in close to original colour?

I have done a small run of reproduction VIN plates for the 260Z 2+2- This VIN plate is an accurate replica of the one on my 77 car. Proceeds of sales are to the Forum. Cost $30 and includes postage within Australia. To secure a plate. Make a $30 donation to the forum and PM me with details of your donation and your address. If you want them stamped send me a PM with a picture of your old one as well I will not stamp a random number on the plates.

Useful to set up a brace inside the shell before you tackle the rails and floors. You can fit oversize rails over the existing ones but TBH if you are going to do that much work, why not put it back to original. You can make your own rails or buy them ready made from the likes of this guy in Canada. Shipping is a bit less from Canada vs USA. http://www.datsunzparts.com/

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsun/Z-1969-1978/engine-240z-260z If you havent looked here already, try Fuel Piping, Fuel Pump (Electric), Fuel Filter or Fuel Pump & Tube?

I agree. I plan on putting the original VIN behind the reproduction VIN and then whoever owns the car after me can discover the time capsule. I dont agree with losing original VIN plates. The engine number not on the VIN was something I have seen on other early Z VIN plates. Our 68 2000 Sports has engine number and chassis number, however I have seen a few 240's with no engine number. I knew the USA VIN was not for a 2+2 however making a 2305 into a 2605 and adding a G infront of RS is not a big deal. I just dont want to drill four new holes and then not be able to have the original plate behind it. The new RHD RS30 VIN plate is for sale FYI I am getting an order of 14, GRS30 2+2 blank Australian VIN plates made. Cost @$25 plus postage. Any profit to the forum. If you are interested in a plate PM me.

I bought a USA made reproduction VIN plate for a RHD 260 that looked good in the photo. I didnt pay close attention to the details on the USA VIN and now that I have received it, I realise there are quiet a few differences. Most notably the size. Original Aust 260 2+2 VIN 80 mm x 60 mm, vs USA reproduction 102 mm x 70 mm Font is not the same. Categories are different. Aust VIN- Engine type vs USA Engine no. Aust VIN - Chassis No. vs USA Car no. And missing a detail in the lower right corner of N4223. Another minor difference is sharp corners which need to be rounded to match. If you don't mind these differences, the plate is very well made with etched numbers rather than the original screen printed.

British SU's obviously. The small aluminium tag under one of the screws tells you what model they are. IF you want to find out which model of car they were commonly fitted too, or get parts and service for them, contact MIDEL, http://www.sumidel.com/ http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-carburetter-maintenance-settings-identification https://www.uniquecarsandparts.com.au/how_to_repair_su_carburettor

Its worth checking that the strut insulator on the rear is the one you want. Standard, the rear insulator 54320-N3701 is thicker than the front strut insulator. A method often used for lowering the rear is to use a front insulator in the rear strut.

Be aware that these will likely be classed as new car parts by customs and attract GST and Duty including freight.

Triple Mikunis that need some work. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Triple-Mikuni-44PHH-Datsun-240z-260z-280z-280zx-/391906025059?hash=item5b3f6b5e63%3Ag%3AqqQAAOSwAJFZ4MUw&vxp=mtr

Dont be discouraged by 3 phase. http://au.rs-online.com/web/p/products/7840748/?grossPrice=Y&cm_mmc=AU-PLA-DS3A-_-google-_-PLA_AU_EN_Automation_And_Control_Gear-_-Sensors_And_Transducers-_-PRODUCT+GROUP&matchtype=&gclid=CjwKCAjwjozPBRAqEiwA6xTOYPhrmB0Wda22tpnc1ly1oZxxyJItEbDClYHYjVslLmP_6WGogrcCGhoCGVEQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

If you are referring to the EGR diapraghm on top of the inlet manifold that lets exhaust gas back into the inlet manifold, just remove it and make a blanking plate. 240's and early 260 manifolds did not have this diapraghm.

As Alan has posted. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/14458-260z-au-engine-bay-wiring-info/?hl=%2Bwiring+%2B260z

Pics of switch fitted. I chose to keep the ON/OFF decal with it. This is optional.

Maybe of interest. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/topic/12095-bathurst-1975/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/John_Roxburgh_(racing_driver)

PM'd

This photo may be useful for the 71B 5 speed box (and maybe others) Please note that there is one slightly longer bolt compared to all the others. It is 65 mm long - M10 x 1.5 mm (metric coarse). (08131-06510) It is used on the lower passenger side where the dowel is located. The other three longer bolts are 60 mm long- M10 x 1.5 mm (metric coarse) (08131-06010) When attaching into cast iron a metric coarse thread vs metric fine is used. It's useful to know when you get a bunch of bolts back from the platers. Sort the coarse thread one's out from the fine threads first. https://totalzparts.com/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/TranstoEngineBolts2.jpg

At least you don't have to go through the MOD plate BS about getting an L28 engine in the car. You will have worked out by now that this is the Australian 260Z sold in the USA as a 280Z. Ditto being pissed off about the forklift. This is really poor car handling practice and evidence of amateurism. Can you imagine a Ferrari or a Porsche being lifted up by a forklift!!! Absolutely not, and the likely cause for the oil leak! I would be pursuing repair costs for damage to the body rails and oil leak for damage from the forklift. Put it on a host and get photos of the damage! Enough ranting as it makes me bl***** angry.

There are some for sale on Ebay. The photos are useful for the size dimensions. https://www.ebay.com.au/i/122725294983?chn=ps&dispItem=1

I ended up buying a switch off Ebay that came in five. So I have four left if you want one. $5 plus postage. It's metal, not plastic but you can paint it white if you want it to look the same. GH

I saaw a few items at the local farm machinery store that fit the bill as suitable for outdoor uses. They were made for tractor take-off's, implements and PTO's by Bare Co. I can't vouch for the tolerances being suitable but definitely worth a look for the rod ends. http://www.bareco.com.au/home.aspx

Try these guys too although weren't much use for me for anything non- UK . http://www.sumidel.com/shop/category/fuel-pipes-hoses

Does anyone have an inspection lamp toggle switch? My toggle switch is broken off. Hoping that someone has a lamp that is only good for spares. If need be I can turn up a new toggle however an original switch would be best. PM me if you can help with switch or (damaged) lamp. I do not want to canabalise a good lamp.

Still available from Nissan. $107 plus tax! Looks like I am buying it from the USA.

Does anyone know if this part is still available from Nissan? Pt# 32869-E8700 It shows as being available from NissanDatsun parts and the ZStore in the USA, but postage cost is very high.