Roady

obviously the rarest of the rare but an outstanding price https://www.caradvice.com.au/819815/million-dollar-datsun-240z/

PM’d

Wondering if anyone has mucked around on a Dyno to get any actual figures if they had success altering the spark plug gap? Not talking about installing a high energy system as you’d be able to expand the gap then obviously, but as I said wondering if anyone has played around with this after other modifications such as increasing compression etc. then gone up to 1.2-1.3mm or back down to 0.9mm as an example. Using L28 NGK plugs, as I’ve got an L28 engine with a Mitsubishi electronic distributor (not points). Standard gap of 1.1mm Cheers

Not my car and I have no details except a 240z (HS3000535) which has been in storage in Mitchell (ACT), will be put to auction on 2nd October unless all fees are paid. 02 61819644 - to contact National Storage Operations

The link Locky posted above is the one. I ran it originally with SU’s with the plan to install Weber’s (which is now what I have on the car). Its installed right at the back right beside the fuel tank (with electric pumps, it generally helps prevent vapour lock having it close to the fuel tank). Jason

Definitely not rims (only changed tyres not rims - rims are all the same). Thanks for the idea, I’ll stick with your first one and check into it. If it’s the case I can’t believe I didn’t notice sooner!!

Hi I use a carter p4070 - very noisey though but been reliable for 7+ years. You could probably source the eccentric cup washer if you wanted to keep running the standard mechanical pump. I ran mine that way for years also.

No I haven’t. What I’m actually thinking is the only change is actually new tyres (3 months ago (still 205/55R16 same as before) but these ones seem to be slightly different in shape as from my previous settings the tyre actually rubbed on the fender. So what I’m leaning towards now is (as Linton suggested) but the problem has become evident since the tyre change and when it previously cleared everything by a couple of mm now it’s not enough??? This is the way I’m leaning at the moment that perhaps the problem has been there for years but went unnoticed with the previous tyres. Is there a physical stop fitted as standard for these cars to keep the steering limit or is it literally once it reaches the end of the steering rack (that’s what stops you turning any further). Cheers Jason

Hi Linton, Thanks for the quick reply. I just checked on a spare rack I’ve got and it’s 2.7 turns from lock to lock. Which is what I’ve got on the car but it’s hard to tell whether it’s the wheel hitting the tension rod or it’s reached the steering limit when it stops turning. As I said the tie rods are pretty much exactly the same (in terms of thread count) so I thought for the car to drive straight, with a straight steering wheel (as it is now) the rack must be centred else the tie rods would be quite different (again could be wrong on this) to compensate for a crooked rack. Also I don’t think this has previously been an issue otherwise I would have (or should have) noticed the rubbing noise every time I reversed out of the driveway as I go to full lock do get out. edited: due to being an idiot and not being able to count number of turns on spare rack

That’s a very good eye - agreed!

Hi all, I just noticed a steering issue with my Z. Up until recently everything had been had been fine. But yesterday reversed it out went to full lock (left) and heard a rubbing noise, hopped out and noted the tyre scrubbing on the tension control rod. It has never done this before so I thought I’d check the other side, and this is where I noted the problem. Turning left, I can turn the wheel approx 1.5 turns however to the right only 1.25 turns. Now it is worth noting that when I experimented today, when I drove slowly and started turning, it hung up at 1.25 turns left but then actually pushed past that point without any more force. I’m thinking there is an issue with the steering rack itself like it’s pushing beyond the stop or something (not even sure if this is possible). I’m open to any ideas. ADDITIONAL INFO: This is a new problem, not previously experienced Tie rods are equal thread (Well 2mm different, not enough to create this problem) Wheel alignment is good - caster, camber and toe all similar between left and right. Cheers Jason

Hi, Ive got an exhaust header I pulled of my L28 about a year ago. Bit rusty (I’m pretty sure on the surface only) but I can get them out and take a photo of your interested. 6 into 2 Also have the entire exhaust back from there right through to muffler if your interested. Twin pipes, into one for the muffler. Exhaust itself has a couple of scraps but otherwise functioned well. $100 buys the lot (plus postage) Let me know if you want photos. Located Newcastle

Thanks Greg, I’m inclined to agree with your experience. Longer life, but normal plugs achieve the same outcome just need to be replaced more often. Thanks for that

Has anyone actually run iridium plugs on a track/Dyno and compared to standard plugs? I’ve run both and can’t note any real difference except the iridium can foul more easily. Open to opinions and others experiences. Cheers

PM sent

Pretty sure that photo is a 200sx - 6speed

PM’d

Anyone have a broken master cylinder lying around with larger reservoirs sitting around they don’t want. Only interested in the reservoirs. When I say larger, as per photo. Cheers

When you say it’s dead, as in won’t crank on the starter motor either? Or it cranks and just won’t start and run by itself? Have you still got the ram tubes inside the cold air box? How long did you idle it for before this happened?

Where about in Sydney are you located?

If it’s overheating, or using water then that’s an issue. If it’s not doing either of these things, as Locky said, perhaps check it a couple of times to make sure it’s not losing water then you’d probably be right just to drive it without checking every day.

Last time I ordered a set of these (Last year) I was able to go through Nissan but they didn’t have them here in Australia so there was a waiting period till they arrived.

4 nankang (NS2) tyres (tyre only) for sale. 215/45R17 I’ve had them for around a year, as they came with a set of rims that I bought but I think they are about 10 years old. Selling because they are 5mm too wide, will be changing to 205’s. Seem to be in good condition. Measuring depth to the tread indicator, all range from about 7mm to 5.5mm. Personally I’ve only driven 400km on them, still very grippy. Can ship at buyer cost or pick up from Newcastle. (May be able to drop off between Sydney and Newcastle). $100

Early 1999-2000 sti had 4.44 ratio which were the mechanical/plated R180 LSD

Ok good to know, thanks