Roady

Hi Everyone, Just wanting some diagnosis help. I have a feeling it may be a leaky valve but thought I would ask for some fresh ideas before I start pulling things apart. I can only hear it at idle and originally I thought it was an air leak from the carbys or exhaust. Kind of a "squishy" noise. Then I tracked it down to cylinder 1. Now as I honed in it sounded a bit metallic so I thought perhaps it was contact in the engine. Pulled the spark plug lead and the noise stopped, so therefore not the valve/piston contact. Swapped spark plugs, leads and distributor cap, same noise from cylinder 1. So I am happy it is not an ignition issue. I presume that am I only hearing it from when the spark is firing because of the increased compression? My current thoughts are potentially a leak from either valve, manifold gasket or possibly cylinder head gasket (but coolant levels, oil etc all appear to be normal). Sound appears worse on manifold side of engine. As Gav suggested I have uploaded a video - I have intentionally let the car only just idle which is when the noise is clearest. All ideas welcome Cheers Engine.wmv

Hi Kevin, I'm sure there will be plenty of ideas out there but when I upgraded to larger calipers I went with a Nissan Patrol 1" bore. Still all mounts straight up to the original set up and easy to buy brand new from a brake place. I can't remember price but it wasn't outrageous. I can find you a part number if you are interested or someone else might have it handy

Near new SAAS 4 point harness - off road use. Only used approximately 8 times. In excellent condition. What you see is what you get, no eye bolts just the harness. $45 (will post at your expense) PM if interested

P.S. Picked my suby diff up for $500. Just have to be patient and find someone who wants to sell NOW

Well this is definately a "can of worm" topics - not in a bad way but there will be a thousand and one different ressponses and reasons why this is better than that. There are already many good ideas on here so I am most likely just adding to the confusion. That said my two cents - purely talking about the L6 engine and personal experience and dollars spent. Firstly - exactly as Dat2kman stated, its one thing to buy power another if you want insurance to go with it. Also as mentioned previously in other forums here that using a dyno can prove next to useless when comparing one car to another unless done on the same dyno same day same time etc etc. After each upgrade I went back to the same dyno at the same time of year (winter) and observed the results - again taken with a grain of salt My starting point was a standard L28 (F54 block) N42 head - all standard. Dished pistons Electronic dizzy Extractors Twin Hitachi SU's I used this engine as an experiment to see what improvements came with what upgrade. First mod was to install a 72 degree cam. This was a re-grind (cheaper option and I know many don't approve). Whenever you go down this road (changing cams) you also need to consider stiffer springs, new rockers, new lash pads (thicker in the case of a re-grind which you need to measure carefully). Total cost for all this = $1400 approx (parts only not including installation which I did myself) Power gain = 20hp at the wheels Installed tripple webers (45's) Cost = $2500 (not including tuning +$200-500 depending upon who you get and how good they are) Power gain = 25hp Again take the power figures with a grain of salt as mentioned previously. Currently going through another engine build which cost has been approx. $7000 (again not including putting the thing together). Porting work cost = $1600 (this time including installation of new springs valves etc) Prepping the block, including boring, lightening the flywheel etc = $1600 You still need to add on cost of new valves, gaskets, pistons etc. Then if you have done the work to the top end, your insurance for the bottom end involves doweling flywheel and crankshaft, sorting out a better "key" for harmonic balancer and another couple of nice to haves... If I were looking at cheapest options from a complete standard L6 I would look at extractors (which you may be able to get a good semi-racing set for $900), electronic dizzy $250 approx, throw in another $1000 would get you close to the camshaft or alternatively flat top pistons). After that I would be looking at the carbies etc, but again others will have different ideas probably better. Anyway things to think about. If you are talking other parts of the car and as a project as a whole - I worked on the Z's strengths first then its weaknesses last. Its very light weight, therefore braking and handling are a good starting point. Upgrading the brakes to prevent the fade they suffer - you can get away with a 4 runner front, R31 back set up for about $2300. Handling wise - many many suspension options out there, frontt you can get away with some cheaper parts for <$200 to adjust camber anyway and toe can be adjusted already (within limits) Rear, bit more expensive but again for <$3000 you could have your Z handling and braking significantly better than standard road cars. Drive line - similar to Dave 1600, I have headed down the S15 - 6 speed option but have yet to install, nice tight ratios. I cannot weld therefore pricewise went up straight away, you will be looking at $700-1500 to get it all cut and welded. One quote was between $3000-4000. Another $950 if you get the countershaft mod done from a company in SA (which I am heading down at the moment, as when I stripped my S15 gearbox the countershaft had already suffered minor damage and I am a fan of doing things once so I dont have to deal with them again). That said, provided your S15 box is ok to start with, unless you put more than 250hp through it you wouldnt need to deal with this. Subaru 4.44 LSD is my choice for a diff - but there are several subaru options out there, down side is you need additional parts doing this. There are plenty nissan and other diff options out there if you look on this site you will find many ideas floating around. Hope all this helps

Sorry no oil temp sensors

Thanks Gav

Just the 1 air vent - PM if you are still interested, I can post to Melbourne at your expense - that's no worries

Hi Cracker, I can post but pm details so I can give you a postage cost

Hi All, I have been having a clean out and now have the following for sale with a few more things to come but this is the majority of it. Unless I have specified otherwise all the parts are second hand, and I have done my best to give you an accurate description – each item has a photo below. All parts are located in Canberra however can be transported between Canberra and Sydney but will require some time and patience depending upon my schedule. Cash preferred and I can arrange postage but again pick up easier. PM on the parts you are interested in Ignition Coil – Lucas brand, standard 12V (working when removed from car) ($10) Heater Plastics – see photo (reasonable condition) ($10) 3 * Rear Spindles – see photo (one may need to be re-threaded) ($20 for all 3) SOLD Accelerator Rods Parts – see photo (some new parts here, rubber boot etc) ($40 for the lot) SOLD Water Pipe – connects to original 240z Hitachi carburettors, to 3 way pipe (spark plug side of engine – Brand New, never used) ($30) SOLD Battery Secure Post (Metal) (free to someone who buys something else) Front Left Hand Caliper – will require a full repair kit ($15)

Hi All, I have been having a clean out and now have the following for sale with a few more things to come but this is the majority of it. Unless I have specified otherwise all the parts are second hand, and I have done my best to give you an accurate description – each item has a photo below. All parts are located in Canberra however can be transported between Canberra and Sydney but will require some time and patience depending upon my schedule. Cash preferred and I can arrange postage but again pick up easier. PM on the parts you are interested in Demister Vents – both left and right hand (good condition) ($20 for the pair) SOLD Air Vent – reasonable condition (still pivots freely) ($10) SOLD Radios * 2 – one works, unsure of the other one (which is also missing volume knob) ($10) Internal Storage Lids * 2 (slight surface rust on both, one has a damaged hinge) ($10 for the pair) SOLD Internal Storage Lid Handles * 2 (free to anyone who buys something else) SOLD

Hi All, I have been having a clean out and now have the following for sale with a few more things to come but this is the majority of it. Unless I have specified otherwise all the parts are second hand, and I have done my best to give you an accurate description – each item has a photo below. All parts are located in Canberra however can be transported between Canberra and Sydney but will require some time and patience depending upon my schedule. Cash preferred and I can arrange postage but again pick up easier. PM on the parts you are interested in Steering Wheel – good condition, metal may need a tidy up, horn button moves freely ($50) 280zx Oil Pressure sender – working when removed from car ($15) Mechanical Fuel Pump * 2 – one has already been repaired, the other may need repairing as it was removed a long time ago ($15) SOLD Mechanical Fuel Pump Repair Kit * 1.5 – nearly 2 complete fuel pump repair kit, see photo, all parts new and unused ($10 – $5 if you buy the fuel pumps) SOLD Gears Stick Rubber (not the dust cover between chassis) – see photo ($5)

Thanks everyone, I have spoken with Ash and am just waiting to hear back. I have also looked at Supercheap and Ebay so I will report back after I have made the final decision. Cheers

Does anyone have any recommendations for a full engine gasket set? F54 block Last time I went through this I was using ACL - Monotorque. ACL now only seem to offer EZ versions, which I have no experience with. I already have a custom head gasket so it is basically every other gasket and seal... Cheers

G'day Everyone, Selling an E30 Cylinder head. Original plan was to do it up and utilise the higher compression but now that plan is out the window. Camshaft, rocker arms, pads and springs all appear to be in good - reasonable condition and could be used in exchange or a re-grind. (see photos) There does appear to be evidence of a coolant leak around the exhaust valve in cylinder 4 as per the attached photo. I have never run this head and the plan was to sort it all out in the rebuild Please feel free to contact me with any questions and I will get back to them ASAP. $100 Cheers

May be as simple as cleaning the battery terminals / connections. I had a similar issue where the car drove fine, then wouldn't start. Jumped it, got 1km away then it died again. Terminals were covered in crap, cleaned it off and away I went... Good luck with it

d3c0y, thanks for the heads up on these items I will look into them and let you all know which way I go.

Combination of street and track, at the moment purely after a simple camber adjustment only. Looking to spend some time setting it up now then forgetting about it. Not a pro racer or anything but doing track days regularly but car is still road registered and planning on keeping it that way

Budget will be around the $500 mark eventually but for now basically looking for a cheaper alternative to play around with. What are you thinking d3c0y?

Thanks Gareth - good to know. dat2kman - noted, do you charge by the minute or the hour? haha Sorry I realised re- changing camber would affect the other settings, so would make sure I only changed 1 thing at a time, reviewing tyre temps and pressures. Plan was basically to set up a camera also so I could breakdown the corners as you mentioned, then review the footage post track day also and examine corner speed (in 3 phases also). Obviously the footage would have to correlate to notes I have made from the day, as you mentioned viewing something would be useless unless I knew how it "felt" at the time. Thanks for the great advice, will look into the book as well.

dat2kman, My logic exactly, there wouldn't be any point if they keep slipping out of position involuntarily! There is another set up they sell adjusting the top strut: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20d/23-4188 But it does not look as user friendly to adjust. Basically I am initially looking for an easy way to adjust the front settings that can be done on the go. This way I can do 10 laps or so, come back make minor adjustments try it out etc etc. I have already put the techno toy tuning rear arms on which are great just pricey. Obviously as with everything you get what you pay for and I am happy to go down that road eventually I just wanted an interim way of balancing the front whilst I set up the rear...

G'day Everyone, Just wondering if anyone has had any experience with the "Front - Camber Adjustment Kit" from The Z Store? Every time I send a technical enquiry regarding these kinds of things I never get a reply - so I am hoping someone out there has already installed them and has an idea how much camber adjustment they actually allow for..?? http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic20e/23-4170 Cheers, Roady

Noted thanks for the starting point. Bought some tyre pressure valves to try out that reads through the cigarette lighter point. Will use them to keep an eye on pressure as I go. Any ideas of the factory settings on the rear? From the manual I gather its meant to be 0 toe and roughly 0.5 negative camber, sound right?

G'day Everyone, Just wondering if anyone has experience setting up rear toe - in and / or adjusting camber. I will be playing around with various settings over the next few months using the Techno Toy Tuning rear adjustable arms that I have installed, but I was wondering whether anyone else has already gained some experience adjusting the rear of the car. I know you cannot go beyond a set camber angle as the spring + shock will cause issues with the strut tower. Obviously beyond a certain toe - in it will also cause significant scrubbing of the tyres. Plan is to head out to the track, and basically test a few setting to see which gives the best results. Any ideas or suggestions welcome - will provide feedback once I have finished (including full car set up - engine through to rear wheels so people know what I have based the figures on) Cheers Roady

Hey mate, The set up I am running works ok for me. I have 45mm using 36 chokes on an L28 I can't remember the exact jetting mine came with but it sounds very similar to yours and I found it to be way to lean! Tried richening the main jets increasing accelerator pump jet size as well. Worked well but as I'm using a 72 degree cam it left a gap in power down low which I wasn't happy with, which I then tried to overcome it with the idle jets but still to lean. So change the emulsion tube and started over. Current setting is: Idle Jet - 65F9 Air Corrector Jet - 210 Main Jet - 140 Accelerator Pump Jet - 60 Accelerator pump exhaust valve -00 Emulsion Tube - F7 This emulsion tube richened the overall mixture which meant I had to lean out the main jets and air corrector. The idle jet is very rich but has overcome the gap in the progression circuit (the cross over between idle and main jets) as you accelerate. Hope this helps.