Roady

L28 (standard, tired with twin hitachi) - had 66kw (at wheels) 72 degree cam - became 78kw Triple webers (45) - became 89kw All done on same Dyno same time of year As per everyone's brief before, different depending upon jetting, chokes and what kind of driving you are tuning for.

I have a used 240z twin exhaust system which runs into a single muffler tip. (Photos attached). Inner diameter = approx 1.8" (each pipe - used a vernier caliper but it was at the end where the section is welded) Outer diameter = approx 2" (each pipe) Muffler/tail pipe inner diameter = 2.5" It has had a scrape where it bottomed out on speed humps several times, however no holes or anything that I can see that's actually wrong with it accept the aesthetic scrap. (See photos) The system connects to a generic extractor set (which I can supply also free of charge) however I do not have a photo of it at this time but can supply photos there is any interest in this post. $75 Can assist with delivery anywhere between Newcastle and Sydney for a cold refreshment. PM me if interested Cheers

twoforty z - I had a similar problem. I had everything in the car and it was all working fine then one day it just stopped. It would no longer indicate past 4000rpm. The engine was still going past but the tach just seemed to hit a wall and wouldn't go past it. Swapped tach' same problem. Sent tach away to be tested and nothing wrong with it. I figured there was a power drain somewhere so I systematically swapped and changed everything associated with the loop wire (swapping coils and several other things which I can't remember) but it didn't have any effect. Took it to an auto electrician who couldn't solve it, so I gave up and did what you propose and put in a 280z tach interior into a 240z tach body , no dramas since then. Sorry I can't give you any other ideas to try

Edited and re-wrote post in a bit more detail

Hey Andrew, Again forgive how long it's taken me, see photos attached, it's pretty crowded to get a proper photo

Edited and re-wrote post in a bit more detail

Hi mate sorry been busy and distracted - I'll post a photo on of my base this arvo for you

Very interesting. I'll have a proper look at mine today for you. I'm sure you saw earlier in this post what the inside of mine looked like. I'll get back to you re- the base plate but from memory mine looks just like the second one you posted, where a marker points to the advance adjustment

Hey mate, Mine has a similar base to that one, what's happening with the timing?

Can you give a bit more info about the engine? Ie do you know compression ratio, cam (is it standard), type of carbies? Some of these things can affect your idle forcing you to adjust timing. As an example the engine I am currently using has a 72 degree cam, which was ok with an initial timing of around 12 degree with SU's (with max mechanical advance of 28 degrees. But when I changed to the triple Weber set up I had to advance the initial timing up to around 17 degrees (I haven't recurved the dizzy as yet), giving a total advance of 33 degrees. More info if possible..

Webers easy to tune, if you know the tricks once you get them synchronised will stay that way long term. Don't have any experience with the others just webers so I can't compare them. If you do get webers (I have 45's as well), get the later model ie do not get DCOE 152.... get the 152g. The difference being they have an extra Progression hole and makes driving (opening the throttle from idle) much better. If you go his road I can give you some starting points. Cheers

Purple is the 4.375 - but things obviously can change with wheel size... from experience, I installed the Subaru 4.44 and used the purple... forgot about rim size. Ended up going to the next one up "orange" Speedo cog to get it right.

What kind of carbies are you running Does it do this in every gear (I.e. 2nd and 3rd). The reason I ask is I originally had SU's on the car and with no heat shielding on the fuel lines around the engine... when taking it on the track, after several laps when in 3rd it would bog down as you describe around 4K due to vapourisation. I could drop back to 2nd and it would rev all the way back to 6.5K no worries. This way I figured it wasn't electrical it was fuel related. Perhaps the new headers are creating more heat and a similar issue to what I had. That said I was also running the standard mechanical fuel pump at the time and less likely for you with an electric fuel pump I may be overthinking it as well. ?

Just to add yet another way, found if you put a small drill hole in the "bolt" to get started then use a screw extractor (where the thread is reversed), you can screw it into the bolt and in turn unscrew the problem bolt... just be careful not to damage the dash with the drill. Only takes about 2 mins to remove both bolts.

When I threw a fuel pressure gauge on the standard mechanical pump Gav mine was showing about 3psi. Obviously the age of the mechanical pump would probably affect its output. I use a carter p4070 - which has a high volume output at relatively low pressure (4-6psi)... they sometimes advertise it as not requiring a pressure regulator but as previously mentioned you generally want around 2.5-3psi for webers. I use a holly pressure regulator - can't remember the part number sorry, but I'm sure google will answer all if you search. Have run this set up for many years now and never had an issue except my crap/cheap fuel pressure gauge breaking. Good luck

These Weber carbs with 3 Progression holes are not as smooth transition as 4+ hole. I have a 3 Progression Weber DCOE, and it can be driven and used normally but the butterfly does not sit directly under the first hole. You can richen up the idle jet as I have done and it drives normally with no issues except you will use more fuel due to the richer idle jet. Also when you are driving at low constant rpm it can run lean as it has not exposed the first Progression Hole. Am looking at drilling a 4th hole in mine but this project is temporarily on hold... Hope this helps

Might sound like a silly question but the exhaust system you've changed to (in particular muffler/exhaust pipe) - is it smaller than previous system you were running. I used to have an issue where it was a 2 and 1/2" exhaust that ran into a muffler with a 1 and 1/4 exhaust pipe outlet. Used to cause a similar issue, once I changed it to a 2 1/2 all the way through = no problems.

Hey Shaun there are a couple on gumtree at the moment mate trending $400-650 for complete engine. Jason

Hey Gav, Yeah that's all you need to buy. You will need to pull the front flange off your original diff and swap it with the Subie one. I used a 4.44 ratio mechanical R180 from a 2000 model Sti and needed to make a hole in the moustache bar for the drain plug but I think that was because of the model diff that I chose to use. There are a few variations out there that people have made instead of the beta motorsport ones. From memory you may be able to try Wolf Creek Racing. I'll try and find the link. They are beta Motorsport ones as well but perhaps still have some left over or found a different manufacturer...?? http://www.wolfcreekracing.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=22&Itemid=31

Not something simple like the rotor button installed backwards? Disregard - just read you can only install one way

Just some photos of the Mitsubishi distributor pulled apart for those who have one or interested in them compared with the "usual" models. Cheers

As Locky said

He is still doing extractors (I presume small port). I spoke with him the other day, had an issue having spent much time and development getting the right combination the "demo model" from which to produce more was thrown out by someone else. But if you give him a call should be able to sort some out, just may not be next day delivery.

Was at Rockdale (in Sydney)

I bought both purple and orange Speedo cogs direct from Nissan here in Australia.... they ordered it from Japan. Just need to find a willing participant that doesn't think it's too much trouble