Roady

I’ve got an electric pump as well which works but I found that with the choke I could just start driving rather than sitting idling to keep it comfortable. Now that’s also to do with how I’ve tuned it with the 72 degree cam. Once it’s been running for about 3-4 mins choke is completely off so it’s definitely not a necessary thing that’s for sure. Yes - I’ll upload photos sometime over the weekend

If you wanted to hook up the chokes to triples, not that much effort required - I bought a generic choke cable from Repco and attached it to the original mounting for our cars (240z) so all still looks standard inside. Takes about 30-60mins and that’s for someone who moderately competent doing mechanical things. Haven't had flooding issues as people complain about in many years (8+) of having them.

Thanks Gav, I’ve re-posted in the other forum (didn’t realise it existed sorry). Feel free to delete this one as you see fit. Cheers Jason

I’m looking for: L24 - 067190 should anyone find it please let me know. Cheers

Long shot - if anyone has this engine please let me know. Seeing if my original engine is still in existence. (feel free to fill in the blank) “you’d have more chance of finding ........” Cheers Jason

I’m sure it had “flare” whatever it was

Hi all thanks for the replies - I’ll probably end up selling the 240K wheel and the aftermarket one (there’s only so many steering wheels you need). Gav - no idea who thought yellow was a good idea (for a change it wasn’t me with the crazy idea though so that’s good)

Hi all, Just would like some help identifying these steering wheels (year and model whether 240 or 260 etc). The first one looks like they have bent the indicator prongs to fit (I know it works with a 240z). The last wheel looks to have a boss kit on the back of it so I presume something aftermarket. Thanks for any help Cheers Jason

A couple of years ago I did this swap (from the 40L - 240z tank to a 60L - 260z tank). No idea what year model it came out of but I was able to swap the original sender unit directly into the other tank. Took some fiddling as I bent the metal rod the the float is connected to, to make sure the float reached top of the tank when full and bottom when empty. Hope that makes sense.

Hi all, Selling an R200 long nose (non-LSD) differential. 3.54 ratio Seems to be in good condition (I personally have never had it in the car) but turns over smoothly, I can’t make out any bad bearing noises and backlash seems ok. Has side and front flanges (side flanges have 29 splines)

SW Motorsports sells them - yes I would say all of them are made oversize as everyone’s steering rack will be slightly different diameters depending on wear, so they make it too small so you can make it specifically for your rack.

Ok so far I’ve removed the brass bushes from the left side of 2 steering racks. My advice thus far is try and see what type of brass bushes you have. One of these I presume had been replaced before and was one solid brass piece, used a hacksaw blade with tape on the end in the rack to prevent it cutting the metal frame, then just tapped it out by hand. The other, and I think original actually has a split in it - I got this one out by hacksawing (as above) near the split, then used a punch to peel the bushing up at the split then just pulled it out. (Photo below) Disregard the other cut I’ve made in it, I didn’t see the split in it at first so was doing things the hard way, as always haha. Now some additional points here: The bushing actually pushes up against a lip to add to the difficulty of this. You can also use a cutting wheel (dremel - for example) what ever you use you will run the risk of cutting into the housing which holds the bushings. There is a groove in the frame so if possible I’d try to cut the bushing somewhere here (I’ll try and get a photo but it will be a few days away as tools are down for now). If you do nick/cut (providing not too deep) the housing I would be inclined to lightly sand away any rough edges and I think it should be ok. It would be in the direction of movement of the rack, and also the rack itself shouldn’t actually touch that section because it is held between the bushes themselves. Open to others ideas/opinions on this. Try not to cut the housing though as it’s obviously not ideal.

Spoken to Stew Wilkins - suggests cutting them out (carefully). Yes from what I understand all the new brass ones are oversized and you then need to bore/hone them to fit your rack.

Hi everyone, has anyone replaced the brass bushings at each end (internally) from their steering rack? If so, how did you get old ones out? Cheers Jason

Anyone interested in my jig to mate an S15 (6 speed) with your 240z. There is a fair bit of info on this site about this kind of job. PM me if interested - overall weight would be approx. 13kg Length - 600mm Location - Newcastle $30

@gav240z @260DET Hi Gav, I agree re: Postmate. My issue potentially would be trying to set up a system to bring in those kinds of components where by a private seller (not EBay) basically doesn’t want to ship. So it would possibly finding a service like you’ve discussed re:Japan like Jesse who could buy stuff then pack and ship things. I would find it unlikely that a private seller who can’t be bothered/interested to ship items (even locally) would refund and money just because we encountered shipping issues after purchase. Was there a particular freighter company you used or had good dealings with otherwise I can just start phoning. Hope everyone had a good Christmas. Jason

Hi Everyone, I’ve just finished reading the informative section regarding importing from Japan and also using Postmate from the US. Just wondering if anyone has tried or had any luck importing things such as gearboxes, differentials, engines and alike from the US and whether they used Postmate. I noted with Postmate they obviously want things packed for air travel which would mean fluids removed etc. I worry if purchasing something from over there, they may not prepare it to Postmate standards then could turn into a nightmare trying to return anything to the sender and retrieve any funds (which I’ve run into before from a well known engine builder years ago) who admitted fault in the product but refused to compensate me to fix it - offering to repair it if a return posted it at my own expense.... defeated the purpose. So any advice/experiences would be appreciated. I should specify I’m not talking about new parts that could be obtained locally in Aus, but harder to find parts that may be more abundant over there. Cheers and Beers for a Merry Christmas Jason

Ok Thanks Peter

Stew Wilkins (SW Motorsport) has some good ones to offer also.

Just wondering if anyone rebuilds these? At the moment I have 3: 1 in the car, spring mechanism from START - ON not so good 2nd is a spare, as above but worse 3rd - bought on eBay from Thailand, spring mechanism etc is good but the unit itself (start function) failed within 6 months resulting in a crude jump start method (screw driver on starter motor) to get home. Unfortunately the spring unit and ignition module itself are all combined so hoping someone can point me in the direction of repair or new module unit that actually works - don’t actually need a new barrel. Cheers Jason

For the record (anyone one else doing this) - this could be around a 20-30min job. It all depends on where you, previous owner has the steering linkage positioned and if you have a steering column which has some ability to lengthen. In my case the linkage was at its maximum length and therefore the steering column had no adjustability, meaning I needed to create room. Don’t waste time trying to move the steering rack - I recommend you undo the 8 bolts of the steering column (4 fire wall and 4 under the dash) and pull the steering column slightly (1 inch) into the car, then you can fit all bolts and new coupler first, then re-connect steering linkage. Whole process would take about 30-60mins... Not 3 hours as I have just managed! Good luck

Tried installing a new coupler today (got the old one out with some wriggling) but after battling with the bolts for an hour I’ve given up for the day. Will undo the 4 steering rack bolts tomorrow to make is easier unless anyone else has any suggestions?? Cheers

Thanks for all the advice, Linton you were right, but in fact it was the aftermarket boss kit that was off centre.... funnily enough I replaced 10 years ago and it’s never been picked up until these tyres scrubbed. Unless when a mechanic swapped the rack over it wasn’t centred when he installed it - either way all sorted thanks for your help.

There are 3 holes, 1 input, 2 output. I use one output to Weber’s the other attached to a pressure gauge. You could possibly use the second as a return line. Not sure if the smaller diameter of the return line would create enough of a pressure differential to feed the carbies. Alternatively, have the return line from the end of the Weber’s if you so choose??

Front and Rear for sale - see photos for details. Rear had been in the car for approx. 5,000km Front only installed for approx. 2,500km Both have been removed for about a year. Seem to resist and rebound just fine. Removed as I upgraded to Koni Yellow adjustables. Rear securing nuts are in ok condition I’d recommend new ones. Thread is fine, however ONE got a bit damaged during removal. It still fits and would serve purpose but personally I’d use a new one. $50 for all 4 PM if interested. Unsure about postage with shock absorbers (in terms of Dangerous Goods as they are pressurised). Can deliver anywhere between Newcastle -Canberra if it’s not urgent. Otherwise pick up would be from Newcastle.