Roady

Not sure if there is an advantage - just a different set up. I have never run the triple arms, but the advice I was given originally was that over time and due to vibration the arms can get themselves out of sync. As I said I have never used an arm for each carby, so what I was told may never actually happen, but I know the results from this set up and I've never had a drama needing to re-sync the 3 of them. From the day I first installed them until now all throttle plates still line up perfectly when viewing them through the Progression holes... at the end of the day it may just be an alternative means of connecting the carbs.

Hey Cozza - this pretty much shows the set up. There is also a throttle return spring (external) attached to the middle carby which it doesn't look like I got a proper photo of, but it is there. As others have mentioned, well worth putting an external spring on each carby. Let me know if you want any other views but I think that will clarify it. Cheers

Thanks for all the advice and ideas. Looks like part of the throttle rod mechanism needed some lubrication. WD-40 to the rescue and everything now back to normal. Cheers

Hi Cozza, did you want me to post a pic or were you asking the other Jason?

Hey Pete, Only thing I can suggest if you haven't already bought some, is don't buy Weber DCOE 152's... find 152G's etc. all to do with the Progression Hole which I can tell you all about later if interested. Thanks for the tip and I'll check it out as well

Sorry to clarify, I have used Weber parts to connect them all. From the research I did, it looked to be a good way of keeping them all synchronised using these connectors, as it doesn't allow movement which sometimes can occur with the 3 individual rods, and to date they have never gone out of sync in the 6 years I have run them on road and track. I totally get what you are saying, and it's still a possibility but I just thought it would have happened sooner if it were going to happen. I have run it for years with no issue, I just found it strange that all of a sudden it's changed. After some sleep I don't think it would be the throttle return spring because all the other springs would return it to idle. The only other time I recall something similar was when I had SU's and after I came off the track and got some dirt in the mechanism - WD-40 fixed it.

The latest issue everyone, I have been mucking around with pretty much every component on the webers over the last 2 months, learning and getting them sorted on this engine as a baseline ready for the new engine when I can build it. (Triple Weber set up - all connected to each other, not with an individual rod to each carby). Today while driving, everything was fine and normal until I came to rest at the lights and it was now idling at 2500rpm. Normally when this kind of thing happens I go back and look at what I last touched because guaranteed it's something I've done. Yesterday and today I had mucked around with the bleed air screws and the dizzy timing. Now with that said up until this point, it had all been driving just fine with no issues then this high idle appeared. Upon further investigation I found that it is throttle related. If I rev the engine, then let it return to idle it does so slowly (because the throttle is remaining partially open). If I open the bonnet I can manually restore the correct idle by pulling on the lever. All three carbs are interconnected and I have never had this issue before. My latest plan to trouble shoot, will be to disconnect the carbs making them individual again and test each one. I think perhaps I have broken a return spring in one of them. That said I also have a secondary return spring as part of the set up and it obviously hasn't been enough to close the throttle on the carbs. All ideas welcome before I begin the witch hunt. Cheers

Hey Jason89, Thanks for the tip. When I have set the idle, which at present is about 1100rpm if I open the Progression cover the throttle plate is not even visible. If I sit it under the first Progression Hole as Weber suggest it give me an idle of approx. 3200 (obviously by this stage the main circuit is becoming involved). During "cruising" with an o2 sensor the real issue is around 2200-2500 where it leans out (again prior to the first Progression Hole even being exposed). I rectified it a little during acceleration with the emulsion tube swap and richer idle jet however it's still an issue with hwy driving. The first hole is already at 1.2mm and I'm not sure I want to widen it further. Could you explain the throttle stop a little more?

Hi Jeff, Thanks for the tips. I actually think the hole needs to be 1.2mm which was why I was starting with 1.0mm, but I will heed your advice on this one - maybe start with 0.8mm and go from there. I agree it should on top of the throttle plate - the key will be to make sure that it's not forward if the of the throttle plate else it will leak fuel past the plate at idle as you say, then the only way to fix that is to drill a hole in the bottom section of the throttle plate (problem after problem). The plate itself is about 1.2mm wide. I have included a diagram (courtesy of Weber) outlining where the throttle plate is meant to sit relative to the progression holes. As far as I know they are 152, but open to any other suggestions.

Latest brain storming

Cozza- haven't tried length of accelerator pump, but changed pump sizes and spring to see if it made a difference.... minimal as it's such a small thing. As I said best thing I did was change to the F7 emulsion tube and richen the idle Jet right up, so for those who don't want this hassle you will get satisfactory results this way. As this stage actually planning on using the picture above and marking things to scale, using pins pushed through something (plastic) into the current holes to align it all and ensure the hole is drilled in the same spot every time .... maybe

Hi everyone, I have had triple webers set up on the car for a while now, very happy with them but now looking to resolve a long awaited issue - the progression circuit!!! These are 45mm DCOE (152). From what I gather the 152g came out after these with an extra 1-2 holes drilled into them. Basically the issue is as per the picture - the throttle plate should sit directly under the first progression hole. This way as you just crack the throttle from idle (driving off at a set of lights) you won't enter a lean spot until you reach the first hole which then allows more fuel in (the transition between idle circuit and main circuit). If I adjust my idle screw to position the throttle plate under that first hole the idle is approximately 3200rpm. After some fiddling around I got relief from changing emulsion tubes to an F7 which provides a "richer" bottom end throttle response. This combined with a very rich idle Jet (65F9) has relieved the issue some what and I have been happy with it up until this point. The downside with this set up is that fuel mileage is rubbish as during normal driving you are generally sitting around the progression holes when cruising. The time is now drawing near to put together the new engine in which case it will give me time to address this issue with the carbies off the car. My question to you all is - has anyone here done it (as I have seen some alpha posts about it) and how were you able to accurately measure the spot to drill the hole..?? Cheers

Hey everyone, I have a brand new Speedo drive cog (cog only, not the whole drive mechanism) - to suit a diff ratio of 4.38. Looking for $10 (+ postage). I am away frequently but I can post or possibly arrange pick up from Canberra, Sydney or Newcastle for you, if you are patient. I can also arrange a photo if required. PM me, usual story first in best dressed. Cheers

Yes they did Gav, mounted just under the hole in the bonnet (like a wrx) but rather than cool air coming in onto it through a scoop I think Toyota worked more on dispersing the hot air out

Gav from what I can gather the 165's didn't arrive here originally but many have been imported since (anyone please feel free to correct me though). I know the next model the 185 had 5000 produced with only 150 delivered here originally.

Retro Z & PB260z - are you in contact with the owners of these cars? Yes it's the group A rallye GT4 from 1994-95 era. I'm not actually looking to buy as I actually own one of these cars. I am trying to reach out to the other owners and put together a registry of the remaining vehicles (mine is #32). If you are able to could you please pm me their details so I could contact them or let me know the best way (if I pm you my details to pass on) so I can get so me more on board. Thus far I have found 8 of them in the last week of searching. Any help you can offer would be greatly appreciated. gilltech you are spot on, 5 went to NZ and now they are all a bit of a mishmash as to whether some NZ ones have been brought over here and vice versa. Cheers Jason

Thank Jeff, I am in the process of chasing him up also in the hope he has also serviced a few of them. Great idea thanks mate There are a few personal imports floating around, some may even be of the original (2500) batch that people have imported from Japan or overseas. But it's those like Neil has (the original 77) that I'm chasing. Thanks for your help.

Hey guys, I am trying to track down all the originally delivered ST205's. Originally there were #77 of them. I have been trawling through all the Celica sites and tracked 8 so far - but as all of you are car enthusiasts with older Z cars hoping someone here might have a few leads for me as well or can put me in touch with someone who has some ideas Cheers everyone

Hey Gav, I have one of these on my car but I haven't found its original source, whether it is native to the engine (F54/N42) or come from somewhere else. I have used it for 7 years now without it missing a beat! Sorry I can't be of more help.

Hi everyone, thanks very much for your help. As some of you picked - the magic noise is the manifold gasket!! (exhaust) Inspection Camera - OK Compression checked - OK Traced the leak - Slight "burning" look where it is leaking out of the gasket from number 1. Thanks again for all the suggestions

Thanks for all the ideas, I will thoroughly check all the suggestions and report back what the final problem was in a week or so. Cheers

Thanks for all the info guys at least I know I'm in the right area. I had reset all the valve clearances around 1000km ago and it has driven fine this far not making this noise and no big rev moments (last time I tracked it would have been 400km ago). That said I will check the clearances as the last thing I really want to do is have to pull the head off. I was also going to stick an inspection camera into the chamber and have a look around but as has been mentioned it could be only a tiny bit out and not obvious to the naked eye. My only follow up question is, if I compression check it, how will I tell the difference between a leaky valve vs a leaky head gasket?

Hi All, I have now officially installed the 200sx 6 speed gearbox into my 240z. Another post I strongly recommend you review as well as this one is "S15 6 speed transmission on an L28". As Dave1600 has mentioned here and in several other posts, this is by far one of the best upgrades that I have done thus far. At the same time I have coupled it with a 4.44 Subaru wrx sti (mechanical/plated LSD). Notes that I can add to this post, base upon my experience. (My experience being the fact I stripped, replaced every bearing, and syncho for new and modified and installed the worm drive gear so the speedo will also work, then put the jigsaw puzzle back together - which for the pros out there would have been an easy task but for myself having never done it before was a reasonable challenge). The usual disclaimer - take everything I say with a grain of salt but the information I give here was relevant in my unique case. BELL HOUSING I had to remove 35mm from the front bell housing when it is welded. S15 (200sx bell housing size = 286mm prior to being modified, 251mm after the chop) Depending upon what clutch plate you have (as they come in different sizes) - you will need to select an appropriate idler bearing carrier. For the record there are at least 3 difference sizes that I have found thus far. In my case I needed to use shortest one I could find (which was approximately 47mm). The other 2 sizes I found were 53mm and 58mm (as measured based upon their entire length) TAILSHAFT You will need to modify the tailshaft by approximately 20mm (shorter). You can get a custom tailshaft made, using the front yoke from the 200sx..... The down side with this option is that by this model Nissan no longer made replaceable uni - joints. Therefore break the uni - joint need to make another custom tailshaft. The option I went with was the front yoke from a Nissan R31 (automatic) will fit the 200sx gearbox, and it has replaceable uni - joints! You also need to remove the dust cover from the R31 yoke. Again I must stress it needs to come from an "AUTO" model. MODIFY REAR MOUNT Sorry I cannot offer much info here (as I did not do this part of the job) - but I wouldn't waste time buying the 200sx mount - modify the original Z one BEARINGS & SYNCHROS If you search online for a parts list you will find one for this model. The other thing to point out is that the bearings and synchros are interchangeable with a series one Mazda RX-8 (along with several other models). Nissan have discontinued some of these bearings hence I ended up at Mazda. In my case the Mazda parts were slightly cheaper but I honestly got great service from both companies. GEARSTICK I had to enlarge the floor hole approximately 15mm forwards and 5mm to the right - original rubber squeezed over the top. That said, my gearstick rubber is relatively new and still in good condition, older gear stick rubber may not take the strain. Also, as the tower which pokes up through the floor has it's own protective rubber to prevent anything getting into the gearbox. Thus you really only need rubber around the tower to block out road noise... Not sure if that makes sense. WORM DRIVE GEAR I have attached photos of this one. As Dave1600 outlined in another post (S15 6 speed transmission on an L28), you need to find an earlier model (2000 or earlier I think). You do need to find one which has the removable plug in place. Photos outline a Lexus IS200 worm drive compared with our Datsun worm drive gear (ours is the biggest one). All you need to do is trim the height and widen the hole of ours. You also need to source 5mm ball bearings as it is smaller than ours, and a little tweak of the worm drive where the bearing will sit. MODIFICATION TO THE COUNTERSHAFT These gearboxes have a bad rep - particularly as the cars were used for drifting. Once the power starts to head north of 250hp they can have issues where the forth gear pushes hard against its thrust washer, chips the teeth on the counter shaft and (from what I can gather) eventually it forth gear floats and ended up meeting with reverse. Therefore I also went to the extreme to modify the countershaft ready to handle a higher torque (possibly not required). In reality my countershaft was already chipped (photo included). There is a company in SA that gave excellent service and great advice and I cannot recommend them/him highly enough. Sam from Neat Gearboxes - was able to answer all the questions I threw at him throughout this process and also modifies these countershafts. COST Not for the feint hearted this one. If you were to do it minimal bare minimum you would be looking at around $1000. Costs (from what I can remember below) for myself ended up closer to $3100. Gearbox - $500 (can get cheaper but will most likely have gears trashed. $700 general price from wreckers with a warranty) Tailshaft - $350 (second hand R31 auto + make custom one) Bearing Carrier - $15 Idler Bearing - $15 Bell Housing - $500 - $1500 (depending upon how lucky you are - just make sure its done properly) New Bearings and Synchros - approx. $1000 (I cannot remember exactly for this one) Countershaft Mod - $950 (approx. but this includes a new countershaft as well) Hopefully this helps and please let me know if I can answer any further questions. Again - these were the basics and how it worked out for me, costs and other things may vary but I have tried to be as accurate and descriptive as possible. Cheers

Video uploaded to original post

Great idea Gav, I have tried about 6 times to upload it now, the file size is about 10mb but everytime it fails to upload saying "no file selected"