MaygZ

Is that your final answer? Eddie

I have one you can have, but I'm in the far east Victoria (Bairnsdale). If you are driving back via the coast, let me know.

Some info I found that people may find useful. I do not know the accuracy of this info, but others will http://members.optushome.com.au/amaxeng/five10/gearbox.htm MaygZ

Yes. drive the car and have some behind you - you can do it stationary but its not as effective IMO. They are watching for smoke. Stem seals will leak most when engine RPM is higher and throttle is closed. Drive along at 60 or so and lift off the throttle. If the seals are weak then you should get white smoke. If the smoke is black it could indicate worn cylinders/rings due it running rich. Depending on carb model, a puff of black smoke is OK due to accelerator pump opperation, but more than a second or two of black smoke means it's running rich. This has the effect of washing the lubrication off the cylinder walls producing increased wear. Another way of doing the stem seals test is to let it idle for a while and then accelerate - again white smoke. The first test is more conclusive IMO. Good luck - stem seals is a much easier job. If you end up rebuilding the bottom end make sure you relacce the stem seals anyway. They are cheap and easy to replace.

I did big fella. I know that there will be a page of debate on the dates before one is locked in! Or is that w/end locked in?

Is there a chance it's stem seals that are causing the problem? It wouldn't be right if a different opinion wasn't thrown it to cause confusion

You know I'll be there (for comic relief) if I can get the days off. Set a date soon so I can start orgaininsing work.

Getting fuel to the motor will do that every time I've got a PMC motor in my shed. It's got no power at all. I'm expecting very big improvements when I supply it with fuel and a spark source though. Check out this link for a selection of driving courses in each State: http://www.aussiemotorists.com/adt.html

I hope so for your sake. Good luck.

The system uses both convective heat transfer and conductive. I personally agree that if fluid is running through the system at an alarmingly fast rate and only in contact with the heat source for a very short time, it won't absorb (or dissipate) the heat. However, that would need to be a very fast flow considering the areas of heat source and exchange in an auto engine. The radiator and the inherent restrictions within the cooling system (block design/radiators/heater cores/hose sizes/etc) will slow the water down enough to work effectively. In most cases it is the lack of water flow that causes over heating! Do what you can to speed water flow (a larger and more open radiator/bigger water pump/removal of shape edges and casting burrs/ increase hose sizes where possible and remove any kinks/etc) and engine cooling will improve. You don't fight a bush fire with slow moving water Certainly in my case I'm not looking for maximum (expensive) efficiency, but rather economically effective. Many years ago on my old track car (which was also an Italian daily) would over heat very quickly in stop start traffic if the outside air temperature was above about 27C. I removed the thermostat completely (and yes it was operating correctly when I tested it). This completely solved the over heating problem. It also had a subjectively measured side product. The engine idled better and I suspect it revved out a little quicker. This is quite possibly due to the reduced load on the engine due to the reduction of back pressure on the water pump. Before we start flaming me, this was a subjective perception and not proven scientifically or statistically. Again my opinion, if you are running high octane fuel and/or higher compression and don't do very short trips on very cold mornings, remove the thermostat completely and allow your engine to warm before pushing it - life will be good.

If you want to be fast - and I mean seriously fast - spend the grand on driving lessons! No I'm not kidding. No I'm not just picking on you because you're on your P's. A good steerer in a Hyundai will blow the doors of a Zed driven by a dick! The driving skills you learn are transferable to another car (unlike the parts you buy) and just might save your life (unlike the parts you're likely to buy)! In addition your local cops won't put a canary on your driving skills. Food for thought. I was told many years ago - "There are two things you can't tell a bloke: You've got a little sharp object and you're not a very good driver." Hey moderators - what's wrong with the word prick? Stop doing that! I said prick. OK this is giving me the shits! It did it again. All I said was shit. Fucking nanny state! Shit, will you pricks stop fucking with me?

Give Ash a call and see if he can get it. Even more Yokel

Justin, you wont have anything to do on GF w/end except sit a mope about you got robbed and that Sydney beat Adelaide in the GF

And there's a Falcon in front of it! He's had a coupe for what? - a week - and he's already some sort of car snob!! *face palm*

G'day Brother. Long time no hear.

Really good work mate. Let me know how the rear h'brake comes up as it is exactly how I was planning to do mine - I just couldn't get me head around how to design the plate used to hold the cable. I'm keen to know how much advantage you lose (if any) making the cable do the extra 90 deg turn. MaygZ

I like your ride

Black liquid shoe polish is water soluble! You will have a black butt after a long drive!

Something that I think is worth mentioning is that most workshops that do RWC's/pink slips/etc would nver have seen a Zed. They wouldn't know which are genuine brakes and which are hilux/R33/etc. They would know where and what size the original exhaust is/etc. As long as it is clean, safe and everything works as it should and is not too far out in left field - it should pass. Don't stress about it. As said, it is a reasonably cheap test (about $100 down here) and they give you a list of things that need to get fixed. Don't pre-emt what needs to be done - unless it's something that doesn't work - just get the test done and see what you need. If you have a set of 6" rims I would fit them - that's an obvious one. MaygZ Congratulations for escaping the sleepy town where people dine on ravens!!

Classic Skylines Australia PO Box 8307 Carrum Downs Vic 3201 Contact: Carolyn Kruger Phone: 0415 440 349 Email: president@classicskylinesaustralia.com Website: www.classicskylinesaustralia.com Research has always been my thing ... baby

Yes. True love :'(

Looking good mate. Almost invisible repairs. well done. MaygZ

It would be much cheaper to buy a Zed someone else had built too. And Justin; You're a pussy! Question wasn't asked but it was answered.

Wow! What a guru. What a mentor. Magnificent purveyor of information. http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,3171.0.html

A compressor that can hold/run at 90 psi - so that's any compressor that you would use to paint or run tools with. Mine's a three piston monster - because that was what was available when I was looking, but a smaller unit would do fine. Don't buy the fine black media that Supercheap sell - it's crap and makes so much dust you can't see what you are doing. Buy the red garnet from a proper tool shop (BJ Bearings) it's cheaper ($20 for 25kg). I've been able to do brake calipers/whole struts/as well as lots of small bits and pieces. Well worth the money - IMHO Got an engine crane too. It's used for a lot more than lifting engines. Good for lifting anything and holding it while you back the trailer under it. It is a must have if you do most of your work on your own.