dat2kman

Fronts are easy. Remove whole guard, elongate all mount holes or drill them bigger, say 3/8 or 1/2 inch, Including the ones under at rear of guard where bottom edge of doors are. Refit guard, fit all bolts at just finger tight Using a two mates, two jacks, and shaped wood pieces, ie no square edges on wood at corners, Slowly jack out, you want to pisition jacks at 10 o clock and 2. O clock, wood to come up and meet at 12 o clock. Slowly jack out. You will get big panel gaps, tighten all mount bolts Presto you just got 15 to 20 mm on fronts. Rears are harder. Get under neath, drill out spot welds holding the inner skin to the outer skin at the lip, all way around. Cut away approx 4" of the inner skin, use a 4" angle grinder with a slit wheel., use jacks, wood and mates, but, you will need to brace and hold the pumped rear outer skin in position. Use strips of steel, 2" wide 6" long bend and fashion to suit. Once these are holding in place, remove jacks and woods Fashion up new inner skin, you do not need the reversed upside down hump, tack in with MIG. Slowly tack all inner guard back in. MIG it 30 mm here, 30 mm there, alternate, move around, let it cool down, so it doesnt heat buckle You will be left with a up to 2O mm pump, and stock lip. It will crack paint.

Hard to see by just a pic on a site. Have a look for Renault's Wild Violet It is circa early to mid 1970's If that is of interest, i have 4 litres of fresh two pack of that. Its a 2k solid colour, needs an oven to apply. I did a 1966 Chev Belair in it, it came out very nicely. Got heaps of looks, 18 feet of Wild Violet with a 383 cubic inch rumbling away.

Do a bit of research on Gonzo mufflers, straight through, course spiral twist around a inner tube, inside an outer tube. It knocks the soundwaves without creating back pressure. It goes next to gearbox. Then run a Lukey Turbo at the back Get some decent headers, try Stew awilkins , or up here, Jack Beavis up Sunny coast way. Forget HM or Perry. Mass produced ones, no attention to detail, but cheap!

Zac, thats right, you might need a front bumper! Remember that JDM front bumper i got by side of my shed! She's still there!!!

Cheep ching chong rubba! I got a set of S14/R33 rims here, with near newish good quality rubber! $250 the four ( rubber alone new cost 600!!!) If you need a hand bleeding etc, you'll need to bring it to me!

Maybe spent $3k modifying the crap out of it trying to shoehorn it into a hill climb special! If it is a R180 with a clutchpack LSD and a rare 4.375 ratio, thatd be worth 1.5 to 1.7 k If the struts and arms, crossmember have been chopped, they are pretty useless to Z owners now. It's the diff that's worth the coin, if its a proper one. Ask him to remove the back cover! F he says no, lift up both sides, spin one wheel, the other SHOULD spin in the same direction. If it goes clunk/ratchety ratchety, then it could be a locker type. Cheaparse way is weld it up, but that dont mean its a LSD. Really, ? Pull off back cover, or walk away!

Insurances are a rip job. Why? 'cos say you own a few cars, you may want the lower cost "laid up" sitting in the shed or some workshop insurance on them, but, You can nly drive one of yor cars at a time. We should ge able to insure the "driver" not the car, whilst in use on public roads. The rego and insurance authourities know this, but, as it is not in their interests, they will never suggest it to we dumb sucker car owners.

The ZX's had reached the bottom dip on their pricing a couple years back, now they will start to slowly climb, as per reasoning as above. Older 240's, look at the pricing for them! Even more so, pricing for good Datsun Sports 2000's, the true original spirts car by Datsun, are very strong. Cars like Z31 Z32 are at bottom pricing about now, ie no-one wants to touch them due to mechanical/electrical issues, but in a few years they will have bottom dipped, and climb. One thing, it is very pleasing to see the enthusiasm for these older cars, being shown by the younger owners!

Got LCA's 1 set Got castors with new urethane bushes, BUT, Is a long way away!!! Maybe summink closer to you will pop up?

S1 = "Soft Eye" S2 = "Angry Eye" THAT is excellent buying, and you are gonna rape the biatch in 6 months! Heathen!!! Then again the Hektic Crew are cheaparses when it comes to forking out coin, so there are some very good bargains out there! Couple of dirt rally guys i know pick up Seroes 1's for 2 to 4 k, do what is needed to rally them, roll them into an absolute ball of crushed steel and plastic, then just pick up another. These things ARE the Datsun 1600 of today!

You have an issue with the air temp sensor inside the Airflow Meter unit, and the water temp sensor or signal back to ECU. The cold face washer on the ignitor module on side of dizzy can work, to check this, but not relable. I prize off the plastic covers, and use "freeze spray" in a can. I have fried three ECU's by trying to tell them "false" signals from sensors in order to get the ECU to do what i want it to do. You'll need to get a hold of the section in the manual, and go through each components operation, it is all measurable using multi meter and test lights. PITA but thats 30 plus year old injection for you.

Wow, on this forum we have LZ engines, as well as FJ24 engine owners posting!

There are specific Helicoil repair kits,,,,,,, but,,,,,,,, how do you propose to not let the swarf from drilling and tapping, and the Helicoil tang, from all dropping down into the cylinder??? . . . I got it, turn the whole car upside down, and working from underneath, it will all fall outwards, caution point, make sure to wear eye goggles to prevent swarf etc from falling down into yor eyes,,,, most important!M

I would have thought it was polite for a person wishing to enquire about someones car that is for sale, that the enquirer call the seller, not the other way around! Or send a private message, making the enquiry.

I reckon if you squint your eyes while looking at the Fezza 250 gto bodykit on a Z, its kinda like a Bolwell! Hey, Draconis, keep an eye out for dates of the Historic Racing Car Clubs two big race meets at Morgan Park Warwick, there is usually a guy there Barry Campbell who races his historic Bolly in the Sports Car fields, along with plenty others, he has a few others too, if you get there, go talk with him, he is very knowledgeable on Bollies!

In Vic, you guys have got an all encompassing setup with NDSOC, it has a number of other sub clubs under its umbrella, it works well. Strong numbers, funds to support and promote events, but, at same time there are still Vic based Nissan Datsun clubs that will still go it alone. In NSW and Qld, the situation is more a case of the latter, ie individual model based groups forming a club, most without CAMS affiliation, or access to good discount rates etc, and with membership numbers quite low. Some are now not even issuing a magazine, or if they do, it is quite irregular. You also have the "modern" boys, the "old"boys, the "performance" boys, and the "dirt" boys. Would it not be better, for a greater strength in numbers thing, to form State emcompassing multi model clubs? NDSOC is doing this already, but nothing elsewhere. It has been tried, but the politics of "mines bigger/better/older/newer etc than yours" just gets in the bloody way. The concept proposed by OP ie, as I see it, is more a facility to access services, recieve help and guidance, maybe be run without a magazine, but via internet/email outs etc, and run at a lower annual fee basis. It is not going to please everybody, but the aim, maybe, to embrace as many owners of various model Datsun/Nissan's as possible? Here in Qld alone the separete mobs are, Early Datsun Club, Datsun Sports Owners Assoc, Qld Performance Datsun Club, Z Car Club, Skyline Branch of Qld, added in there are various modern Nissan groups of loose nature. A "Superclub" emcompassing all would be ridiculous, strong, political, but it'd never work. See thete is already a lot of choice out there! A lesser number of clubs, with higher member number base gives strength in many areas I am a member of the Historic Racing Club of Qld, some 700 members, not all active, but a strong club with very goid representation in the historic disciplines. HSRCA and VHRR ( NSW and Vic) are the counterparts. These are not marque, model or vehicle age soecific, more an interest and social based.

The concept of a " core " executive, should work. Jump say 5 or 10 years, what is in place for succession of the core group? The rwc/safety thing, is open to flaunting of rules, ie get it registered in a no fuss lo expense way, then as time goes on further mods are done, that may contravene safety and insurances, ie third party injury. How is it to be policed? Currently engineer types are now photographing or documenting modds appled for, so there is no future comeback if it is altered and an incident occurs. Case in point, EPA loud exhausts and the original exhaust fitting shop ( canny shops will take pics to cover their arses) It would be a goid idea to make, and then list up all the costs to set up, and annually run, a club, that way the annual fees to members have factored in the associated costs. After all, when a long established club has thousands of dollars sitting in its bank account, that the past and present members have contributed to, and allwing for future event/club costs, why horde the funds. Say a long time past member, who say paid in 10 years of fees, he gets no benefit if he elects to not continue, bit unfair? Any club should be for current interests, and some future planning, not a dinosaur. Internet/web based club in this day and age is valid, old style club based on papertrails is passe. And whats with so many clubs not prepared to take a calculated risk and put on events of all types for its members? Those that have a good strong membership base do, and they do it well, but those with sub 100 members tend to be highly cautious in taking a calculated risk. It is goid as a membership drive and an awareness thing too.

Jane's disorganised, could'nt give a rats about grass roots motorsport! Nnnnnnnnnnoooooooo !!!!!! Never !!!! Gee nothing has changed in over 30 years! I used to run in the QuinSprint series at old Calder and old Winton, in 1980 to 1984, and Jane's attitude was exactly the same, give em no facilities, little infrastucture, charge the earth, at the time, it may have seemed lo-cost compared to now, but on comparo, its the same . Simon, the Black Biatch looks very nice, Ronnie's just needs a bit of a lower, some stiffer springs and a bit of rim n rubber lovin !!!

Get spanners Unbolt guard Hang on your wall Drive car guardless Tell coppers you have a bell end,,,, oops,, sorry living end guard I got signatures of famous race car drivers, on the cars they used to own, i now own the cars! I also played a guitar once owned and signed by Keith Richards Rolling Stones. Real deal, def not for sale, i offered 20k$, but nup. The owner, Sam Cutler, ( google him) liked my bluesy rendition of Angie! He gave me his autobiography, signed, of course. I do like the Strolling Bones, gee 50 years on!

You saud it is a Brakes Plus shop, which one? So that others up here will know NOT to go there. I would also be very interested to know the names of the two blokes who, apparently, race , Z cars, as there is a pretty tight fraternity of Z car racers up here and we all pretty well know each other. Brakes Plus = Midas Mufflers for all repair work, it now seems. You must persue this, the list on page one here is quite explicit in work requirement, and all work can be fairly clisely calculated out on time with the MTAQ service job time allowances. It very much seems that there has been price gouging on the majority of the work done, the fact that the car is old has no bearing, do you think a tough looking bloke with plenty of mates would stand for a 6k bill to have this work done on his 1976 HX Holden sedan? Same era car, same amount of problems occur. Yep, whats these blokes names, and where is the shop???

Send it off for hot tank cleaning, then nutralising bath to stop acids eating metal, then thourogh cleaning. If bores are fresh honed to suit the ring set you are using, then get it home, buy a set of rifle cleaning brushes a 5 litee bottle of kero, and of prepsol, some medical lint free wipes, and then clean it properly, even though you just had it "cleaned" Wipes the bores with lint free, see how dirty they still are? Thats the cutting solution from the honing process, ,, clean??, yeah ,, sure!! Once assembled and fitted fill with water ONLY, fit a hole free sock into the top hose, ie as a particle trap, over thermo housing outlet, or top rad inlet, fit hoses etc, run engine, a few times, pull hose, ,,,, gee look at all the crud, flakes, silicone, and muddy gunk,,,, from a "cleaned" engine! And we wonder why our radiators dont seem to cool as well! Drain water, refill, do it again, drain refill, but this time use a mix of either Redline Water Wetter, or Penrite Din Coolant, i like to go about double strength on the mixture, follw directions on bottle. I reckon your water passages will be pretty damn goid by now!

Bolt ons ? Like as in tits!

You're still NA? Forget about them, they'll be fine, unless your going 3.2 litre on triples with LSD and 245 wide tyres. If it is a worry, scrounge for some that do not have the grease nipple on the uni. The thread machined into the cross is a stress riser, and can fail. The half shafts out of 240k's or 1600's, 180B's are all nipplless.

You can get Penrite Sin Coolant at half that price, it does exact same thing. Back to back, in two race cars temps dropped approx 10-15 degrees on water, using a 270degree sweep mechanical guage. Oil temps dropped approx 10 degrees. Celciuoseseseses not the frarenheitesie things. Yes plus 1 for no glycol/anti freeze. Where the hell in this country does a car live to need - negative minus a gazillion degrees of freeze protection. Oh wot, somewon lives at Cooma, well you stick the glycol stuff in but watch out when it gets dumped onto a roadway just in front of your rear tyres! Yes an oil cooler is a goid idea too, one of the alloy sandwich plates, with lines going forward to a say 14" by 8" alloy cooler mounted vertically in front of radiator works well for me. Other choice is a plate with lines going to a separate mounted on inner guard thing that a common Z9 filter screws onto, then lines to cooler. The thermal bypass ones will run all oil through motor only, until hot enough, then it opens the bypass to then circ the oil through cooler. Be aware of this, hint, warm up engine! The racer boys will jack up a car, run motors change gears, full drivetrain warmup, before going on track. Smart thing to do.

And quite obviously a competition car, did it come with a CAMS logbook? Who owned it, and what events has it done, as per comp record in logbook. What class was it? The strengthening would have been done prior to using it for comp use. Any other identifying marks, old rego labels, paint markings? A few pics of suspension and brakes, interior, etc may help the sale,