dat2kman

The two spares i have must be r180 as bolt spacing for rear diff mount is narrower than the one i know is an r200 With the change Nissan made, was it simply just a doglegged moustache, a front of diff to crossmember mount change ( rear offset?), and??

Further to this, i have what i def know is a later 260z moustache bar, that uses the curved type horizontal brace that sits at bottom and behind diff rear cover. I also have two other moustache bars, One a flat one, ie no dogleg/kinks, and One with diglegs/kinks, but, Niether of these are the same shape as the later 260 moustache! Which is which? And if Z decides to stick with stock items, i'm happy to let one of the spares go, unless he goes all fancy with the Arizona stuff!!

And the only 280zx with quite unique taillight and rear hatch spoiler Zac swung by mine the other day, and yes, the perspex cover certainly had me looking in there, the only suggestion i made was to cover/disguise the yellow/blue battery with a black covering so as to more draw the eye to the triples with the red ramtubes. It will benefit from cold air piping from in front of radiator to intakes. Stay tuned for the new fender mirrors too!! And shortly some new rims!

So, is Phillip Island track now on"quiet" meetings, like Sandown? News to me! Sandown i understand, they get four or five "noisy" meetings a year, ie full race meets, the rest are "quiet" things like supersprints. At PI meetings in past, there are strict controls for no race engines to be started prior to, or after a certain time, due to disturbing the sleepin/rooting fairy penguins. 75db will get rid of any exciting interesting cars that may have been considering this. I'm out in any case!

Pull off distributor cap, put a socket and ratchet handle on front crank nose pulley bolt, rotate engine, look to ensure points gap is opening/closing. If so, goog, if not adjust so that on full dizzy cam lobe points are at 40 thou ( 1 mm) Now look inside dizzy cap, make very sure it is coean, no moisture, no carbon tracking. If suspect replace. Another simple thing, the condensor on side of dizzy can simply just fail, replace. Go over electric checks, crank engine with a spark plug wire disconnected, hold with insulated pliers, look for some spark, if so, your ignition system is good. Check static timing, no 1 cylinder points gap should start to open at around 10-12 deg btdc, the marks on front pulley will show this. Other possible, the electrical unit at rear of ignition key barrel may have failed ( contacts) If all ok, and in order, look at fuel delivery next

I went a couple years back, through connections, and the fact i own some significant historic Datsuns, i got into Nismo, Nissan and Zama DNA Storage warehouse. They are all "not for public admittance" Unfortunately! The Nissan Engine Museum is open to public, two floors f display, lots of history, and heaps of actual engines on display. It is a easy 1.3 km walk from a teain station a short ride to south of Tokyo. The Toyoa museum is also very good. The car yards, like Rocky Auto are a bit hard to get to, but worth it. Get yourself a SUICA teain pass. Ask your hotel concierge to write little cards for you with varios questions etc. If you have a translation app on iphone or ipad, se wifi in your hotel do up a list of questions etc. Forget trying to get mobile phone sim, unless you are a resident you wont get local phone, maybe try Amaysim? It is a very cool place, huge in culture, visit some shrines, some old churchy looking things, graveyards are interesting. Use a camera on your phone, take pics of words/things etc, then show the waitress/shopkeeper etc ie food !!

I have a pair Postage to NZ shouldnt be too much?

Every time i have to get this sort of stuff done, it is anything from 75 to 100 per hour, and that includes their travelling to and from my place. Bugger of a thing but just watching a technowiz just experiment, without knowing the outcome, for three or five hours is not easy. Oh well, i will play with modified L28 EFI and signals/sensors. It gets annoying when it turns out to be simple oversight i could have sorted out prior, but with rootard eyesight it makes it pretty hard for me. Good luck with it.

RUF is 90's? Noooooo wwwaaaayyyyy! RUF is like wide lapels, paisley shirts and platforms, Tom Selleck style, circa 1970's !!! On the sticker whats written along bottom? The following that Porkers get, is not unlike the following Mk2 Escorts get in dirt rallying. Both are ridicoulously expensive at the top end of performance. There are Escorts in rallying that are costing over $160,000 to prepare. The Porky race brigade are the same, something about Kraut Superiority, but dont mention the war! We need more Datsuns racing and rallying!

This is a good simple easy way to see what Lakeside Raceway looks like from a race drivers perspective. No doubt there will be plenty of members of ZCCQ putting their hands up to do this, so it would be a great social opportunity for the Qld Auszcar forum lurkers to come along! Bugger that it is kept at hwy speeds, ie 100 kmh, as this particular track has the claim as Australia's fastest speed circuit, the record is an average lap speed of 162 kmh. But, just watch, the track owners will set the date at 23/24 Feb, which just happens to co-incide with another teack day in Qld, already mentioned below. Nothing new there!

All i see is "stella artois" Wot, another new racing car builder or summink??? RUF is da hawtness for those Porker knobs

Or wait till SupaCheep Auto have yet another sale, and pick up theier engine stand, i fitted mine out with a twin set of removable timber shelves ( cut down pallets) and as i dismantle, everything sits on or under the two shelves. The stand is the one that the rear f the block bolts to, and that bit rotates. Paid $130 for it.

No, because it happened on a gazztted public holiday. Re the new accquisition, get up to SuperCrap Auto, and grab some tins of flat black spray paint, and apply an even coat all over. Next time you then "accquire" a new item, one that you did not pisess before, no- one will see you with your new flat black skin disguise in place. Win all round, i'd say. Shame about not claiming business expenses, maybe try a mid-week drinks session next time.

Other than what you are keeping, short answer, no. Diff is a shortnose, rear subframe and suspension is useless, but, sell all that to a wannabe drifter with a S13 Front suspension also no use. Five stud front and rear hubs are desired by S13 owners. Hang onto the disc rotors, as using offsett dogbones to mount the Skyli calipets to the Z struts, you may be able to use the five stud rotors, just need to pick four areas where you can redrill and rear mount. Warning the rear of Z hub where Z rotor mounts is NOT 114.3 mm pcd!

Simplest improvement to stock L28ET system? As it is, run it up on a rolling road dyno, note the torque and hp graph points. Get rid of the stock fuel pressure regulator, and replace with a more accurate one, ie Malpasi, then get it onto Run it up again, but this time, using accurate four wire Lambda sensor, adjust the pressure reg. Note increases to graphs. Up to 20hp at wheels improvement. Nothing else done. Dont fall for the slick mechanic type who will promise the world.

Syd to melb to syd, Brabham, borrow a trailer, do it yourself, easy done in a weekend! This'd make a good race car project, bit rough around edges, soda blast, cut n weld in new bits, hit it in primer, get a cage done, one coat of 2 pac white, some vinyl stickers,,,,,, Come Group S racing!!! And if the Porches and Alfa's belt you up, just remember, it was an $800 stripper bodyshell!!!

So, what you waiting for? Bullzed may rethink selling it! Whats it worth to you, after all Zac has put time money effort and parts into it, he cant just give it away for his original price now. ( and he needs some coin to buy the stuff i am holding here for him!!!)

Unfortunately, in these days of "chuck them away" there are less panel beaters with operating bidy/chassis straighting rigs. Mainly two types, a floor mounted system of pivot and pull with claws, using porta power type rams and chains, or, a rack ( mobile) with similar. Both will use trammel bars and pin points, and work to a book of measurements. By overstretching, with springback using the rams, and measuring for 3 dimensional, it is not difficult to get a car right. Go talk to some shops first, they may require the car to be at least rolling. No hanging panels makes their job, and your wallet, easier.

E30 is just a casting code it means nothing. As above, at rear of cam, you may need a mirror and a torch, will be the stock grind designation, usually A B or C. Not much difference between these either.

Having now recieved the PDF's of the workshop manual, and the use of a multi meter, you have begun checking and testing all components in sequence? If not , why? The injectors are on "group fire" in the Bosch L Jetronic system, and your unplugging them to "discover" the above is not correct procedure, as they fire when you think they are not supposed to. This helps to relieve their max duty, and the Dropping Resistors in inner guard are to "clip" volt/amp spikes. The TPS sounds like it may be faulty, it is a four stage variable potentiometer, the correct operation of the AFM and its flapper valve can cause issues if not right. As before, get a multi meter, the manual, and start from the beginning of the test procedures. Not difficult, but to have a proffessional workshop go through this, if they can be bothered will take a couple of hours labour, you will save yourself that.!

Wrong forum!!!!

Would either of, 3.5 3.9 4.4 Be of use? I dont have any 3.7's The 3.9 would be abetter ratio for places like PI or long track Calder? Getting something freighted isnt a problem

Unfortunately, NO, that weekend, or, any other events that you enter in Regularity or SuperSprints, will not qualify you to be observed for your license upgrade from L2S to Provisional Clubman Circuit. How to do it? First you need a logbooked car, that complys with either a category for a State round race meet, or, a Historic Race meet. Here in Qld, the process is far simpler than NSW, for your first and only OLT ( Observed Licence Test) you just need to enter, run and finish in a full race meeting, without causing the Clerk of Course or Stewards any concern over yoyr driving standards, they also dont like an obvious lily livered pussy back marker, ie they want to see you racing! Dave, your 1600 could qualify for an IPRA car, or set it up as a Historic Group N car, GpN would be more suited, but check the ejegibility, or a Roadster in Group S, far more genteel racing. You then run a further five meetings within 2 years, on P plates, get your license signed off at each, then you are on Open. In NSW they make you do the OLT at a seperate driving school ie Peter Finlay, at very high expense, then you still do the five signatures. HRCC are running two meetings this year at Morg Pk, so if you can get a car "approved in principle" with logbook application in , but no logbook isdued, yet, you could run around at rhe back of a pack of race cars for the OLT, then you could run a couple of Historic meets at Eastern Ck under CAMS, and with your PCC, also enter some Wakefield Historic meets, ( but you may need an AASA licence for their insurance) Up here in aqld, we run full door to door races at Lakeside and Qld Raceway, with a CAMS CC licence, and the AASA basic clubman, the track operator requires you to buy it, i think Wakefield may be the same. Either way, you get to race, properly, rather than dicking around playing supersprints forever and bragging that you "race" a car! Now, what do we need to do to that Roadster of yours??

The information package and entry forms for that weekend are now available. Very low cost, $90 for the whole day on Saturday, and, $105 for the supersprints on Sunday. You can run either or both. The format for Saturday is very simple, it is aimed at introducing those who have little or none track experience, to get out and have a gentle go. There will be sessions for the more expetienced. I aim to be thete, and will be available for driver training and track familiarisation, along with a few othets. OK, pm /message me your direct email address and i will email you tje info. Even better, if anyone can upload onto the forum, hete, the info and attached forms, i can email it all to you. No, i dont know how to put an email on here!

The moustache bar stud mounted hole spacing is incorrect, the bar needs to be redrilled, this can cause cracks and the bar is weakened. Other option is to look at a custom moustache rear bar replacement, ie AZC, and redrill the stud mount holes, after filling in the existing. The diff cover plate itself bols up to the longnose R200's save for a couple holes misagligned, requires welding, redrilling and a true up skim of the face to ensure good sealing. You can then tap in AN dash fittings to run a cooler, using a Jabsco Water Puppy pump and oil cooler. Serious race use only, very! We had a tapped stock r200 cover on rhe rally Z with cooler setup, it needed it very much!!M