Riceburner

What size is your steering wheel? Oem wheels make it a little easier.

It's a great shift pattern, I had the same shift pattern in my first car, a Datsun 1600. Was great for ripping through the gears. I have contacted pfitzner about the sandwich plate oil mod as they are virtually the same as SR20 boxes, no reply yet. I'll post the RB rebuild in my build thread.

I tried delrin, had a heap of play so I went back to new oem. Good as gold!

Hey Nat, I have a techno versions style and mine has a cut out on the top drivers side to clear the steel fuel/brake lines. I'm not sure of the dimensions though. Even with this mod it was very hard to fit. If I had my time over I'd go the SW Motorsport style, so much easier and it uses a bush that is proven to last 40+ yrs.

Otomotto also do the same style, made by Restored.

I didn't have the oem bracket so I used a coil bracket in the oem chassis holes. Worked fine for many years, might be an easier solution.

I upgraded my sway bars early on. I run 23mm front and 18mm rear, I had that with low king springs and now with the coil overs and stiffer springs. On road it's good, a little rough due to the stiffness but I think that's the trade off. You can go to stiff springs but with our roads you get smashed. Tyre profile will make a big difference too!

So, would the first silvia be an 'S' or a 'C' chassis as opposed to the later model 'S' chassis ? The latter all seem to be 's' series according to the chassis codes. I'm not sure on it all but I'd trade the Z for an early Silvia if it was good, they look awesome. Good to see how the color tune works, the real test will be how it goes under load. Looking very tidy so far!

Kevs 260z is on speed week now as coverage of the Vic time attack season, its a top ten shoot out. Channel sbs

Are these a factory style? Anyone seen them before or know where to get them?

+1 Try ebay, there are K&N filters to suit the stock airbox. Flow much better than the originals and they can be cleaned/re-used many times with the K&N diy cleaning kit.

Last one I got from nissan. The carrier can be reused, just drive out the roll pin and fit the correct pinion gear, then punch roll pin back in.

Reinhard were having a 30% off sale last week David. Makes it a tiny bit cheaper but still exy I think.

I'd check all the mounts too, engine, gearbox, diff, exhaust hangers. If one of these is gone you may get enough movement with sudden load changes or rough driving.

I have some still for sale Adam http://www.viczcar.com/forum/index.php/topic,12774.15.html

Can anyone tell me what I'm missing from the shifter mechanism? It looks like maybe a circlip and a spring or bush?

Check this out, 400hp! http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/06/70s-spirit-the-imsa-240z/

Yeah re-cores are crazy exspensive. $155 delivered is a good price, Keen to see how you go. Best of luck.

I have RB20DET gearbox bearing part numbers if anyone needs them in the future they are, Counter shaft front: NSK 25TM15U1 (sealed bearing) Counter shaft centre: NSK HR6305 Counter shaft rear: Nachi NUPK204 Main shaft front: NTN TMB306CNXC3 (sealed bearing) Main shaft centre: NTN 6306CC3 japan RS Main shaft rear: NSK TM205U40A (sealed bearing)

Bearing came out, I just needed an extra set of hands on the pullers and muchos grunt to get the fifth gear syncro hub moving on the shaft. All pulled down. I'll need to get the Lseries bellhousing plunge cut 2mm, bearings, syncros, fifth gear, seals, main/counter shaft nuts. Possibly a CR set. A few things (see pics), I noticed some funny colors on the syncro hubs.... Could it be oxidising from the failed bearing? Also the reverse counter gear has some decent chips on the edge is it still usable? PPG/Pfitzner offer gearsets but they state on the website no warranty unless the sandwhich plate is modified to stop oil starvation on sr20 which is the same as rb20, is this a worthwhile mod (see pic)? I have it out so it's easy to do.

So far so good with the RB box, except the centre counter shaft bearing has cried enough, ball bearings falling out everywhere. Gears & other stuff looks ok. I can't get the main shaft & bearing out of the sand which plate, any ideas? Do you need a hydraulic press? Also where do you get a rebuild kit for these boxes?

Mickl, I have taken some measurements. Radiatior mounting holes are the same spacing width/top to bottom. Chassis rail width is the same at the radiator support. Top of radiator support to bottom of chassis rails is the same. The difference is the lower radiato support on the 77 2+2 drops down making the radiator opening 380mm compared to the 240z which is 330mm. The total fin area on my rad is 350, so if fitted to your 77 2+2 the bottom of the core would be 30mm above the lower radiator support opening. That's about half the bottom tank above the opening if you get my drift. It's kinda hard to explain. From looking at my two cars I can't see why it won't fit, the only difference is the core is 30mm shorter top to bottom than the factory 77 2+2 radiator. My radiator is by 'champion cooling' I can't say if other brands will be the same.

I'd ask another seller, their attitude leaves a lot to be desired. If anything goes wrong are these the type of people you'd want to deal with. I have a JDM 77 2+2 parts car , I can measure it and then measure my ally rad tomorrow if that helps? I bought a 'champion cooling' brand.

I have an RB20det box in the shed. I also have a modified bellhousing i got for $20. It looks like $600 would get me a known good condition FJ box which would probably need bearings, maybe more. I believe the RB20det boxes are meant to have double syncros on second and third which the FJ doesn't, it's also a newer box so hopefully not as many miles on those syncros. I think with either box ill end up at about the same cost. I'll have a better idea of which box i go for after the weekend.

Ask them for overall rad measurements including the mount hole spacings centre to centre. Then check on your car.