Riceburner

I have a few spares for sale. Sproket can be posted, everything else is pickup only. 1) Rollmaster vernier cam sprocket used $60 2) 72 deg cam, solid so needs to be used with spray bar. $80 3) 74 deg Works high lift cam, internally oiled. $80 4) P90 head, unmodified, great condition, water jackets are excellent. $200 5) 260Z 5spd, bought used, was working but condition unknown. $150

You'll love it Owen! Pete & Les are head and shoulders above the rest.

Bump! Final price drop, If these don't sell I'll just store them. 260Z lights now $150.

The cross member also retains the front or the rear control arm bushes so has to be run. I seem welded mine for extra stiffness.

I had one of the solid aluminium ones, was $50+post IIRC. I run the techno versions mount witt the red top mount only, I shaved it slightly to get the correct diff angle. It's great and a lot quiter than the solid mount, absolute prick to fit though! Like Jason says, If your on track only and noise is no problem solid wins everytime. Here's pics of the Stewart Wilkins style captive mount, pretty easy and cheap to make if your handy with a welder. I'll try to make one of these when my current type gets tired. $300 is getting high, but I guess your paying for the crossmember and all the modifications and the OEM rubber bush. If it's done on an exchange basis I'd say it's too exspensive.

Will do mate.

It's under a cover now, I turned off the lights, backed away slowly and was careful not to make eye contact! A mans got to know his limitations! Would it run ok with bent valves? it's smoother than the old cam down low, probably cause it was set up properly. Idle isn't lumpy at all. I still owe you Pete!

Nice work Juz, are those wolf race alloys? Always liked the look of those. Great work on the exhaust too!

Thank you sir, added to my slide show.

Super lucky, there's valve marks on pistons 2-5 I didn't look at 1or6. Runs great. Lol!

Is it for the 'other' sway bar that mounts from behind the diff? Popular in the USA, but not sure if it was a factory option. $60 sounds ok to me if they are OEM rubber, I used urethane, but I would use OEM rubber if I did it again. You wouldn't have to change them for another 30yrs!

Hahaha, even the apprentice knows I'm clueless

It's Fixed. Runs smooth and pulls like a train I was very lucky that Pete came down to check it over and he had it going in no time at all. Thanks mate, without you it would've been completely stuffed!!! Somehow I had managed to screw everything up, the cam timing was wrong, the lash pads didn't need to be changed and I had even stuffed up the valve lash

Whoa, looks unbelievable Mossy! I agree with Simon, color too please.

Oh no, Here I was thinking I could just change them out. Insert massive face palm here! Xnke, it did smell like it was flooding after a few seconds. The other problem is I run a small battery to save weight on track, this doesn't help with repeated cranking. I usually only get 3 long cranks before the voltage drops off a lot. Only a problem when the village idiot(me) has been tinkering. Jason, A+B I have no idea I find cam timing very difficult to understand, it may as well be written in a foreign language. With my limited tooling the intake was opening at 25btdc which is correct according to the spec sheet. Pete, I'll give you a ring tomorrow.

It almost fires in the first 5secs of cranking. I'm thinking that the cam timing wasn't right before and now the bigger lash pads have changed the timing further, pads are 50thou bigger to get the pattern dead centre of the rocker. I dont have a comp tester Are the exspensive?

I did turn it over by hand after fitting the bigger lash pads, It was all free and nothing was hitting. I'm only two mins away from Lou Mondello's shop, I could almost push it there!

This could be one for the experts... I've recently fitted a new cam it's a works 76 high lift. Yesterday I fitted bigger lash pads to get a better wipe pattern, reset valve clearances and now the car won't start. Again. Lol. The old 74 was very forgiving, I basically put that in with my eyes closed, never dialed in and it ran fantastic. This 76 seems to have a very very narrow window of operation. Is there anything I can do with very basic tools to get it going so I can drive somewhere to get the cam timing done properly?

Rust repairs coming along nicely. I thought Z's weren't painted inside and that's why they rust so badly, seems yours is? I thought that pic was a good comparison because it had similar styling to your car, wheels, flares, mirrors, but minus the G-nose. I think any blue is good, it's one of the classic colors that blends with old and new. Rudolfs 2+2 color is the one I was refering to, it's one of the best Z colors IMO.

There's a few places in the USA that do them as well. ZCCJDM for one, Brians pieces are very good.

Bugger, must've had too much UV. Do any other Nissans use the same toggle/rocker mechanism? IIRC it's only three wires. Maybe there is a similar part on bluebirds, pulsars something like that. I've had the same issue recently.

Nice looking Z's there. Looks like Lens car has found it's way to qld.

Did you end up getting the one from my parts car?

I like your color ideas Roberto, Here's a pic of a lighter blue Z. The factory light blue also looks very good

So much candy! The big headers look shexy. Are the tig welded? Ooooooh, What's the advantage of this box over a stock 5spd. Are they easy to come across? This is going to be such a sweet ride Owen