gilltech

Well the fender badges wouldn't be that common in the USA given that the 260Z was only sold there for about a year as I understand it. I'd take one Gav, will send you a PM.

My approach is to treat the quarter window like a mini windscreen and use a modicum of common windscreen sealant (not black silicone) when I bed the glass in the rubber moulding and the rubber in turn into the stainless steel frame, mostly to deal with the sharp and folded corners. The metal angle stakes that hold the stainless steel frame together are prone to rusting, particularly the lower front corner one. If in doubt I fabricate a new one. Then metal treat and paint any exposed steel as you say. Ditto when I install the whole thing into the body with the external rubber seal, I seal it well against the bodywork. Obviously the painted bodyshell has to be mint and ready before I do so. Sounds like you've got it pretty well sorted. Using windscreen sealant is messy work but once it's all cleaned up and the window well sealed in place I can rest easy. And as the windscreen sealant retains some softness I shouldn't have any trouble in future should I want to remove it for any reason, whereas silicone would pretty much glue it in place.

But were Nissan actually involved? Surely Nissan wouldn't allow their branding attached to poor quality parts, what would be in it for them? More likely to be brand rip-off manufacturers. For years there was a similar scenario with Mustang parts, poor quality repro stuff - well short of OEM standards - churned out by various mostly Asian suppliers, but unless one could find NOS parts (impossible outside of the USA anyway), or better condition used, there was no option but to buy them if the original parts were missing or beyond saving. But eventually Ford got onto it and instituted a licensing program for parts intended for their branded cars. Needless to say the quality of OEM parts for Mustangs has, in my own experience, improved a great deal.

ADR = Australian Design Rule. ADRs are a series of rules implemented from 1 January 1969 on, covering an increasing list of safety requirements for Aus-new cars. There is an ADR 1 which covers reversing lamps, and some of the ADRs have an 'A' or a 'B' appellation, but I can't find any 'IC' in the docs I have to hand. Anyway, the 'ADR' and 'IC' on your tach face are different type faces and I propose that they have quite separate meanings and aren't to be read together. Reasoning: my NZ-new RS30 tach doesn't have the 'ADR' on it's tacho face, it solely has the 'IC'. Perhaps others might like to check their non-Aus-new cars and report back?

The cable assembly is around US$170 plus postage. Ouch. Better you get one off someone's parts car. The problem with repairing yours is swaging or crimping a new cable into the Tee handle, although the other end would be simple like a bicycle or motorcycle cable.

Hi qhongtran, judging by an above post the emblems are sold, but 'nissansatsunparts' that advertise on eBay have been advertising those fairly recently, may still have a set left.

Yes sometime in the early '90s Nissan USA went about buying up early 240Zs and completely refurbished them through restoration shops for sale through a number of their specified dealers complete with warranty. The trouble was that they were pretty expensive once the extensive re-work had been done, and Nissan eventually pulled the plug. From what I have read the plan had been for 200 cars, but IIRC I read that in the event only about 40 or so were produced. Ah, there you go, Gav has just come up with an article on them.

PM sent re quarter windows.

It's listed for $73K now.....

But more recently the price was amended to $73K!

I first used the stuff - their red, a red-oxide looking product - 30yrs ago on any bare steel, and it's still on the car and good to this day.

Aha, I stand corrected. No doubt Gav will be on the hunt for a couple of those next... if he hasn't already started... !!!

Tail light panel is the same for 240Zs, just came in different colours. A 260Z 2-seater one is different (larger access panels) due to larger tail light clusters, but I see no reason why it couldn't be used in a pinch. 2+2 ones are different again being, IIRC, about 40mm taller, and have a different end shaping.

www.zcarparts.com list the early console for US$160; due to size probably double that landed here in Aus but you could request a quote with the shipping.

Don't go by the inside of a door or any panel that bolts on, it could have been swapped out. As Gav says, look up under / behind the dash. Or dig under the underseal or floor sound deadener. Or up under the panel edges and braces around the engine bay. But any car that has been fully repainted could have had it's bare shell fully strip blasted prior to the work in which case you'd never know the original colour unless some early paperwork or photos can be unearthed. If my car is anything to go by, Nissan wasn't generous with application of it's red 110 colour coat as many 'behind the scenes' areas - like underside of guards and apron panels - are just a grey-cream primer with little red to be seen.

The Z Store (USA)? Or are they purely retailers of Tabco or whoever's panels? Anything still available from Thailand, the Philippines or Asia these days? Used to be able to get guards, headlamp buckets and door repair panels.

Yes Chris and his family are nice people to deal with. I hope the parts shop venture goes well for them, they will be dependent on finding a steady source of parts and parts cars. Even if their focus is mainly on 1200s, 1600s, 120Ys, 180Bs etc as it seems to be, the few Zed bits they do turn up can only help us lot out. #110 is a regular Nissan colour from back in the day. You can buy it from a supplier on eBay. I'm using some in a pre-mixed spray can at the moment to do some simple touch-ups while I have my front panels removed for a general clean, as it's not worth the trouble of mixing up gun-loads given that I'm likely to take several weeks to get this done. While the rest of the car is old exterior paint and appropriately faded, what's 'behind the scenes' is still the original hue and so this paint seems to match well, not that anyone will probably ever see it anyway.

From the owner's own description one needs to regard the car as not being too much more than a 'rolling shell'. Unless the car must be sold then the owner is better to keep it for now assuming values will continue to rise for a better return than money in the bank.

Frankly I think that old coat of white paint is hiding a LOT of issues. All the interior parts, trims and ancillaries look very weathered or knackered and whether the car is complete or not is a moot point as most of what I see there will want replacing. It's a full restoration project for someone very keen and with an open chequebook. So, I'm not knocking the car as it is what it is, but I'll stick MY neck out and value it at a bit more above half what is tendered in the post above. Purely MO but I consider that realistic given the quantum of funds that will be required to make it a restored car to be proud of.

Some of it if not all of it looks too good to dump, once stuff is in landfill it's gone forever; would it not be worth your while to list the items for sale? Like Gavin, I'm also looking for lower valance panels as mine are pretty beat up.

Ah so that's your car Bonkers... I saw photos of it on the shop's Facebook page. Very nice, colour 110, same as mine. Are you able to get the door lock you got off Chris (new or used?) keyed to match the rest of your car?

Regarding the foam strips, I called in to Clarke Rubber today and they do a 9.5mm thick closed cell black foam strip in various widths; close enough to the 8mm I measured earlier. According to the specs it is supposed to be very weather resistant so I take that to mean that it really is 'closed cell'. Whereas the product sold at Bunnings for door/window weatherstripping and advertised by the manufacturer as 'closed cell' is nothing of the sort as it takes up water to the point of saturation, I know as I've used it as a threshold seal on my garage door.

Eric you've inspired me to remove the front guards on mine to inspect beneath, first time in about 25yrs. The foam pads on the 4 x 'table' brackets on top of the upper chassis rail are 8mm thick x 36mm wide. The remnants of the 2 x vertical strips look to be about the same thickness.

FWIW the later Zeds had more weather stripping profiles around the doors than the early cars like yours, so if you buy their kit you will most likely have a couple of redundant items. I can advise that some 'kits', in the past anyway, haven't included the rubbers for bedding in of the quarter window glass, so I suggest that whoever you go with, have them send you a listing of what is in the kit prior to placing your order so you know what you're getting.

Sorry if this is a dumb question but I presume the above is referring solely to your 2-seater, & not the 2+2 you'd only just bought as well?