Jump to content

gilltech

Donating Members
  • Posts

    1,901
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    39

Everything posted by gilltech

  1. Hmm, fuse cover quite different in layout to mine.
  2. Are they not available via the usual aftermarket sources? Check the gasket at the mounting face, and around the mounting bolts, any of those can leak.
  3. My 2-seater seats hinge forward, are the seats not the same? These seat mechanism covers are weak plastic & held on by just three tiny screws, would be handy if they could be cast up in something stronger like fibreglass.
  4. FWIW I've always understood the oil pressure sender units to have a rather chequered history when it comes to reliability & providing accurate gauge readings, I've certainly found that with my own car.
  5. Thanks CBR Jeff, I didn't know that. Had thought all that stuff would be long gone. Motorsport Z in the USA have them, listed as LH & RH, US$35 ea, but as usual it's the freight that's the killer. But I might be OK, a local forum member has just emailed me to say he probably has a spare one. Are they in fact universal? Do the clips etc swap across easily enough?
  6. Need a replacement LH door handle for a 260, the chrome on mine has gone all bubbly. Can have it re-chromed but castings that have done that can be problematic to re-chrome so better to just replace it. Or would take a pair if offered. The handle might be universal swap LH or RH ie. swap springs & retaining clip over but I don't know, maybe someone can advise?
  7. Hi Giles, I could do with a few tidier items than the ones I have, have sent you a text. BTW, regarding coming to see parts & visiting hours, are the cars at home or at work? R, John
  8. Could you kick things off by providing us all with a list of what you have, condition & price? Might be simpler than dealing with endless texts backwards & forwards.
  9. I say do it! And why not, if you find them, photograph them then replicate them later, easy with a few dabs of enamel modelling paint, IMO it lifts a restoration. There must have been assembly line markings? On my Mustangs so many parts (especially suspension) were colour coded to differentiate between model variations so workers could quickly grab the correct spec parts (also if LH or RH specific) as req'd for a particular build & install while the assembly lines kept moving. I don't know what methods Nissan used, unlike on my Mustangs I haven't found much at all on my 260. OK, sure there were so many variations of any given Mustang due to the long option lists provided to buyers. But then Nissan was also building both LHD & RHD, specific parts were req'd for the various markets, & there were some options provided to buyers.
  10. There's a rubber sleeve which slips over the bracket to protect the paint, if yours is missing or perished you should be able to fabricate a replica without much difficulty.
  11. I'm looking forward to the day when the Australian number plate manufacturers provide slotted holes that will suit all car brands including Japanese & American. I don't like having to re-drill holes in my own personalised plates.
  12. Not those ones, that's the American spec bumper.
  13. Ha! Yes, satin black.
  14. I suppose this is a dumb question, but for those experienced eBayers, how does a 'no reserve' work if a minimum amount is already set?
  15. Again I've seen the odd ST165 too in NZ, hard to miss as they somewhat stand out. It's such a confused mix of Japanese cars over there, all sorts of ex-JDM stuff dumped into our market. I've never driven any of the GT4s. But the owner of a ST205 I met in Akld some years ago now swore hell would freeze over before he'd ever let his car go, so they must be pretty exciting cars. With so few delivered to this part of the world, I think starting up a registry is a great idea! And I suggest some kind of information forum such as this one by Gav240z.
  16. Have seen several of these in Auckland NZ. Google says just 5 were sold new there. I suspect there would be more than that, others probably ex-JDM cars such as flood the market there since the demise of the local car assembly market. But it's possible the odd one from Australia's quota may have been brought in from Australia by a returning expat, a long shot but maybe worth keeping in mind.
  17. If you find the right car, you'd best leap in & buy it before someone else does. Otherwise you'll still be in the same position in a year's time, two year's time, getting even further behind. Prices for Zeds are steadily heading north not south. People come on this forum on a regular basis bemoaning the fact that they think Zed prices are too steep & can't find one at the price they think they're worth, but the blunt reality is that they are stuck in the past with yesterday's values. So at that rate the chances of getting one are few & far between.
  18. Excellent! Another 'Early '74' owner.....
  19. Those slim floor stiffeners get clogged with dirt & then breed rust. They are not very strong & also can get crushed by errant trolley jacks etc. In the case of my car, & by now a long time ago, I had a panelbeater remove a couple of suspect sections & replace with fresh metal. Following which I added an extra drain hole at the south end & pumped the sections full of rust preventer. Been fine since, touch wood. However, from reading this forum I gather that later cars had longer/stronger sections. I think both styles are available? Others on here will be able to confirm.
  20. All good points. And the reality is that a converted car will always be just that. Not 'original'. However, if a rust-free dry car can be imported at the right price, then it may well be a viable proposition. Depends on the purchase price! The 'RHD' components should be available without too much trouble, after all, they're not the parts that rust away - it's mainly the body shell that deteriorates, or gets written off in a crash. As long as someone has got those parts stashed away instead of them going to the dump or crusher with the shell..... But, the problem with 'sun-baked' 'dry state' cars like Mustangs I've seen, is that while the body shell & metals & glass can be in well preserved condition, all the soft trim, plastic & rubber components are typically dry rotted beyond restoration. Not an issue for at least the early years of Mustangs when all the interior parts & trims etc are easily available from numerous vendors, but could be a big issue with a Zed in trying to source good condition used replacements of the correct year/colour/spec, & with very little OEM Zed stuff being re-manufactured.
  21. gilltech

    Top Seal

    Yes that's what I think it's for. Not normally included in a typical weatherstripping kit. Must get a pair of those myself, for future resto.
  22. gilltech

    Top Seal

    Looks like the one which goes at the top rear corner of the door shell, not the window itself. The window glass in frame slides past it.
  23. It's more feasible than with LHD cars that were never built RHD, so always an option. Need RHD dash & controls, firewall bracketry, steering rack, flip the engine bay components & wiring loom, wipers moved & reversed, RHD headlamps.....
  24. Take a look at the Aus Customs website to find out the costs involved with landing a car here. Even if you are exempt import duty, you'll still be hit with GST applied to the vehicle's purchase price or assessed value plus it's shipping & insurance cost to get here. Add purchase price in foreign $$$, transport to a foreign port & possibly storage, plus the actual shipping fee & insurance for the vehicle across the oceans, port fees at this end plus trucking, & costs can add up pretty fast. You need to do your homework thoroughly to avoid costly surprises. Make sure you have it's import approval to hand before you ship a given vehicle.
  25. Bloody hell...you're a brave man...but keep up the good works. What are you doing next, polishing your gearbox?
×
×
  • Create New...