gilltech

Considering the condition it's in IMHO that's a pretty optimistic asking price!!!; for not too much more one could buy a driving registered one. FWIW, Kerikeri is in the Bay of Islands, well up north, so owner not likely to get many people coming to see it. I don't like the look of the surface rust starting to come through the grey primer, methinks it's been sitting too long and there is grief to follow.

Impressive work, especially the underside.

I looked up my purchase, which was via eBay, it was $30 plus postage of around $8. I got them at the starting price because no-one else bid. Hopefully he has another set for you.

I understand your point but I can't agree, clearly the front portion of the car is still very much the same. One could take half of a 240Z and the complementary half of a 260Z and join them together. (And I know that's been done). Whereas IMO the 280ZX models that came later were a fresh design with little commonality to their predecessors.

He has stuff on eBay from time to time under 'nissandatsun_parts'. Edit: I've just checked and he has more than 20 items listed on eBay right now if you like to take a look.

Not worth arguing over actually. Just find the right one for you that you can afford, and if necessary and practicable tweak it to the way you want it. Personally if I were to lose my early '74 2-seat and wanted to replace it I'd be looking for a late 260Z, I wouldn't go the other way to a 240Z for a host of reasons. With prices typically all over the place it's probably a bit academic but I think the 2+2 is the model that's most under-valued. And I think the 280ZX whether 2+2 or 2-seat is almost an entirely different car so don't understand why it's even part of this discussion.

I got a set from Warren at Z parts via eBay towards the end of last year. Worth asking if he has another set.

I've got early 2-seat #115 (ex NZ, where quite a few of the early RHD numbers were sold). The body shell is virtually the same as the last 240, except for the two-strut rear hatch, and slightly different brackets and fixing points to suit the different taillights, dash, console and door trims. The suspension looks identical to a 240 with the exception of an R200 diff instead of R180. So when I buy parts I have to be careful to select the correct ones. I've noticed a number of aftermarket suppliers here in Australia think that all 260Zs are the 2+2. The American 260s are quite different in detail (not just LHD) having different impact type bumpers for starters. IMO the S30s got better and structurally stronger as time went on. They also got heavier, and the detuned engines didn't help matters. But if one is not going racing yet planning on installing a strong fresh motor then I'd advise a later 2-seater over an earlier model. Not everyone will agree with that stance nor will it suit them but it's horses for courses and worth considering, especially if 260 2-seat prices lag well behind 240 prices.

Not me, I think you mean Cracker. The photo in the Japanese link he posted shows belts of the same fixed style as on my NZ car. If not those you're wanting then the Aus-new cars must have got ADR compliant belts of some kind, hopefully someone can post a photo.

We'd agreed a price and I was waiting to hear back re postage etc. Never mind. I actually don't need all three, one or maybe two in better condition than a couple of rusty ones I have.

Oh, I was in contact with him to buy just the hubcaps but it's gone quiet, I don't think he could quite be bothered with postage which is fair enough. C'est la vie.

I haven't had any problems with the VHT, doesn't seem to rub off, but then my hobby cars see little mileage so minimal wear and tear. But I prefer to re-dye rather than recover as it preserves the correct grain and faux stitching etc.

Oops yes you're right, they aren't 260Z vents, my bad, duh, need to find my glasses..... He says '72, but maybe same as '73. They look like the UK spec items. So what did your '73 car have in the valance panels, just plain sidelights? Clear or orange? Another difference to the NZ cars.

As you surmise I don't think the chrome trims will work over the extra thickness unless you ease their openings a bit. I've used vinyl dyes in the past and not had any problems, make sure the substrates to be recoloured are absolutely pristine though, and that means no silicone residue, Armour All or whatever. Lots of thin coats. Very smelly stuff, not nice to breathe, use a decent filter mask.

Just wondering, looking at the bumper-mounted turn indicators, and the air dam design. But then it's got a vented 260Z bonnet on it too. And from a peek of a wheel centre what could be the 260Z alloys. But he's quoting '10036' whereas you're noting '100011' and '100054'; has he got the number of zeroes wrong?

AFAIK there are three possibly four variations of the 260Z faceplate, but the outline which fits the console will be the same. Why do you ask, are you looking to make some?

UK spec car?

What about ADR compliance tags? Do the belt reconditioning people attach those? The problem with the old factory belts is that the tags are usually well degraded by now and just about illegible.

Sure is. And you can see in there that he's retained the water circulation system. But I disconnected and later removed the water circulation system on my '74 260 more than 3 decades ago after one of the hoses failed right on Xmas holidays when I needed the car, deciding it was potentially unreliable with so many hose and pipe connections involved, any one of which could leak. And never looked back with either the flat tops or round tops I installed later. The KISS principle for me.

Bloody hell - again. I can't believe the number of these buttons you're selling. Just what are people doing to the originals on their cars that they all need replacing?

In your pic. We can't see if it's connected to anything. I'm guessing probably not and the end of the hose is plugged? Anyway, you don't need the water circulation thru the base of the carbs (unless you're doing a correct restoration), so remove the hose fitting and install a blanking plug.

Just plug the water circulation system at the thermostat housing end with an aftermarket blanking plug if you can't find an automotive one, and remove the Tee in the heater hose at the other end, you don't need all that. Individual aftermarket air cleaners will generally come with a fitting on the back to connect those small carby hoses to, you can just about see where they would be in Gav's first photo. Or maybe better to get hold of a proper 240Z air cleaner, put everything back to stock, unless you like the resto-mod look.

I'll have a look thru my spare brake parts this weekend.

1. is for the crankcase breather, long pipe projecting out of upper LH side of motor, basic emissions 2. and 3. these connect to the airbox, or indivdual air cleaner bases if you go that way 4. connects across to your brake booster for vacuum, god knows what you currently have? 5. blanking plug - original, not used, leave as is 6. from memory is part of water circulation, it used to connect to the side of the thermostat housing IIRC Go online and download some photos from all angles of stock original 240Z engine bays and the above will make sense. Hope that helps.

So maybe he does bring a bit of stuff in. Or perhaps it's older stock. No primer coating yet no surface rust. Anybody here used these sections? Are they a decent steel thickness?