gilltech

A plan so clever you could stick a tail on it and call it a weasel...

Eric, as suggested above, yes see Aus eBay - under 'nissandatsun_parts' listing, listed for 240Z, $30 plus postage. They don't rust if the coolant has a corrosion inhibitor.

Cheers Alan for the info.

That rusty Fairlady Z-S looks to have the same chromed guard mirrors that our early NZ-new 260Zs got (like most they were long gone when I bought my car). Similar to those on other Jap-built Datsuns we got like the 160J SSS's and 180B SSS's etc but chrome rather than grey plastic.

Hear hear.

Either buy a new complying set, or find one to match the LH side - there are different seatbelts depending on whether 2-seat, 2+2, and what year the car was sold new or whether it was imported used.

The early RHD '74s went to NZ. Mine is #115. I obtained some parts off #130 in a wrecker's yard. And there were others around with 100-series numbers. A mix of colours.

Well my NZ-new early '74 260Z didn't get the heated rear window, although the wiring was there; yet it did get the Hazard switch; but I'd have rather had the demister in the NZ winter climate. I suspect it was left off to keep the price down, cars in NZ were expensive enough with government import taxes. Edit: the NZ climate is the full four seasons, not unlike the southern parts of Australia. The only desert areas are alpine deserts. So we really should have got the HRW as standard. From years ago I can recall some of the NZ Z Club cars having the HRW, but which models and whether new or imports (there's a varied mix) I didn't investigate. For my purposes I just bought a switch from MSA and one of those stick-on HRW elements, the wiring was already there. Useful fitment in the winter going to the ski fields and winter sports.

To restore something is 'to put it back to the way it was originally'. By 'unrestored' I meant that literally as in how the car is currently presented, which is modified to your tastes in several areas, including roll cage, engine and wheels. No offence was intended, as I said above your car presents very well, but I think you will be able to tap into a different type of enthusiast with deeper pockets if you are able to put it back close to stock.

Yes not worth risking a fine.

A car from another state must be registered for Qld within 14 days. One can apply for a refund on the previous registration. And one must also obtain a Qld drivers licence.

My 2c worth, I agree with the others in that the cage would definitely put me off. IMO you're better to remove the cage and sell it separately but at a later date. Get rid of the race car stuff, it sends the wrong message despite your assurances that the car has been babied. Make sure you fill in the mounting holes and any sign it was ever there. Put the car back to as close to original 240Z spec as you can within reason, and advertise it along those lines. Externally and internally it presents well, right colour, nice engine bay, good clean condition and nice aftermarket wheels. Regarding the asking price, well IMO it does seem a tad hopeful for an unrestored car, but who knows. Whether the car owes you a little or a lot is not a potential purchaser's problem. As has been said above the market has slowed for hobby cars of all sorts, more supply and less demand.

I'd guess it's one of the very first 120s, which had the alloy body, subsequent and the majority of the cars were steel bodied. Owner has a good supply of polish & free time I'd say.

Personally I'd be repairing what's there, unless you can get hold of a replacement quarter of course. IMO it would be preferable to temporarily remove some of the inside structure to enable access. Why not ask around or online to see if you can get a retired or freelance old-school panel-beater to come in & give you a day or two's work on it? That's what I've done in the past.

The Haynes manual I have has different lengths for the 240Z fronts only.

Don't worry for me d3c0y. From a design standpoint I see a purity of line in the very early MX5 (c.1989?) depicted that I just don't see in the RX7 (what year?) standing alongside. That's all. But I appreciate both have their merits and advocates.

I think I prefer the 'before gymn' model. I have the same reaction to female body-builders, related in a way...

Yes I tried one pair off eBay & they turned out to be 17mm which I didn't want as they were the same as the tired old by-then-unlabelled braided hoses I was removing, it's a typical and PITA size as they aren't retained in the bracket. The ones I got next are Protex hoses, $74 ?? for a pair plus postage IIRC, found on eBay. Common brand so probably available through Bursons etc too. Being 19mm they fitted up nicely. Look I'll have to check at next opportunity as to what the white printed markings say on them, can't recall offhand.

As an update I eventually did find a supplier of the original-type of rubber hoses with the correct size 19mm fitting, on eBay, but I guess most people will run with the braided hoses so may not be of much interest.

I'll take the Series 1 280z caps $100 thanks. Could collect on a weekend or will pay for postage if better suits you.

The GST is calculated on the total cost of the goods, the shipping charges and the insurance. Not just the goods. And make sure nothing you import contains asbestos..... or then it really will be expensive.

Well given that the 2+2 didn't launch until late '74 I guess that means that the vast majority of the 260s are different. Depends how much re-shaping you're happy to do I guess.

Hard to say without overlaying one over the other. The 2+2 fuel door is a different shape, and the filler pipe securing system is different, compared to my 260 2-seat I know that. You really need to measure up the internal layout behind the door.

Young fellas. Always going looking for high-tech solutions, with scanners, 3D printers, etc etc when very often just a pen and paper, or a pair of scissors, are needed. Or maybe they don't know how to use a pen and paper..... But everyone likes ice cream...

Those look to be the hard lines for the front disc brakes not rear drums.