gilltech

Can't you just cut some out of a plastic ice cream container using your one as a pattern? They're completely concealed. Low tech solution.

Not 100% sure as I've never been in a position to check but I believe the 2+2 A-pillars are slightly heavier, and using a thicker pinch weld, I suspect req'd due to the longer/heavier doors. I believe that's why the difference between 2-seat and 2+2 windscreen rubbers. Correct me if I'm wrong.

Thanks for the Dynabolt idea, a simple solution, hadn't thought of that one! Adjustable too. I think I need the rod to be about 5-6mm longer, but for the life of me I can't figure out what has changed & why. Must get on to it. Much appreciated your reply.

It should be blue. That's what I thought. So how does that match with the Aus-new cars which mostly have clear AFAIK? Agreed that the tint is quite pale though.

Is the American glass clear or blue tint?

IIRC from your post some time ago, you're looking for the light blue tint version aren't you? Have you confirmed that the USA spec cars had the blue tint? I know the NZ cars did, but not the Aus-spec cars it seems. I don't know why the blue tint was a ADR no-no, it's so pale it's really little different from the clear which has a slight green tint by default.

Just go through the original road tests by Wheels and Modern Motor magazines of the day, they should list the tyres under the specs. I must have a few of those old road tests filed away, I'll see what I can dig out.

I believe so, early plates including on my very early 260Z don't have as much of a fold around the edge as on later cars, from what I've seen.

Might have been a V8 car, as there's a round air cleaner lying in the trunk.

Just find a 240Z or early 260Z radiator and have it rodded out or recored if necessary and while the top tank is off have the inlet/outlet relocated to suit. Then it's good for many years to come.

I think the mechanism changed around Aug/Sept 1976??? so the '77 & '78 doors are different to the earlier cars, both 2-seat and 2+2. If looking for a replacement door shell the other thing to be aware of is that the window winder mechanisms changed in geometry pattern between the 240Z, early 260Z, and later 260Z, so the inner face of the door shell differs to suit each style and the mechanisms are specific. So match year for year if you can.

Re the clutch line - that picture you have looks a little wrong, as you say it's been hand formed. Mine's the original, it's basically a straight line, no curvature except for bends, and it doesn't make contact with the bulkhead at all*. From the master cylinder it forms a P shape as it curves away and down under, then has a couple of 45 deg bends to align it for the direct run down to the bracket where the flexi line is, taking the shortest distance possible. *That keeps it clear of the bulkhead and away from the starter cables, brake lines, wiring loom etc.

It's coming on well, keep up the good work. Yes the doors and mechanisms changed in late '76. But your car has more commonality with the 2+2 than the earlier cars did. At least with a '77 you can source things like door cards from the USA; no joy as yet for the earlier cars. And my early '74 is worse still, being what I can only describe as a hybrid between the last of the 240Zs and the late-74-on cars, different again.

Have just fitted a new clutch slave cylinder. The old cylinder was cast-iron and had rusted solid. The new cylinder is a Protex alloy and comes assembled complete except for no pushrod, which OK seems to be the norm. But re-using the push-rod from the old cylinder it just seems too short at 67mm tip to tip, as the internals go right to the limit of spilling out. Anyone got one handy they could measure for me please? TIA

The fixing screws for the 260Z 2-seater armrest are at 195mm centres, with the third fixing point up on the angle a further 248mm away. Edit: my measurements concur with Groundhog's dimensions in post above, within a few mm.

So is this the late 260Z, mentioned in another post, RS30 Red 110 like mine?

Finally got around to bleeding my brakes, no particular dramas. I've been working through the brakes over past months, with new master, new rotors, new rear cylinders, and new flexible lines. I've also replaced several of the short hard lines and reworked others to replace all of the tube nuts which had got rounded off and suffered attack from vice-grips. No leaks, but system yet to be tested. Now on to the clutch hydraulics..... PS one tiny weep found, nipped it up tighter and re-bled that line so now should be good, fingers crossed. But clutch slave cylinder not cooperating; new post with query on pushrod length.

Mine's the opposite book-end to yours, but sister car, RS30-000115 Red 110, manual, sold new in Dunedin NZ April '74

As he said, you need to bench bleed the master first to prime it.

Mine too. That's the trouble, it's too ordered, just one thing left slightly out of place and it really stands out.

MSA still have new ones for S30 2+2 if stuck.

Ah, has anybody heard from the vendor since mid last year?

The man cave is too clean and clinical just like the rest of the house. IMO a piece of art for showing off rather than a home for living in.

I wouldn't go wider than 7" on the front, the manual steering gets too heavy. And wide tyres can foul the rear corners of the valance panels.

Rust? I'd rather call it patina. I'd buy it if I only had the means.