Linus

For sale QLD PPQ Plates with signed transfer papers Own them for life, with no ongoing fees Can TEXT pics 0409008260 as my photobucket is mucking up 26OZD plates say it all $1500- ONO can post Sunny Coast

thanks, I got it sorted enough for now, without getting them rebuilt (I had triple SU's on a ford 6 I built, and never ran right till the carb guy rebuilt all 3, then it ran sweet). I am just trying to get it running enough to have the car mobile as still got to sell it off as moving. I have researched more on the carb float and apparently many people use shims on the the needle and seat to adjust level. So I followed their guide and got it in spec as it was sitting way to high originally. Now car will start and run. I also changed plugs, and ignition parts to ensure good spark...that helped. I am pretty sure the carbs need a rebuild as car sat 14 years, but it runs OK enough to sell as a project. It doesn't need the choke on to run, just start so thats sweet. thanks again, and shame I have to sell it but I have several cars to unload due to moving, including a mint 80K original klms R31 Skyline.

Chokes work but need to be full on to run. Float has fuel but I think its too low. New fuel pump etc. When I remove float and top up fuel a little it starts easy. Chole is already on too far and jet is too low...but it's only way it will run...so I think float is too low. Cant find float level specs for my model hs8

Sorry its hs8 and google says non adjustable? When I fill floats it runs. And I have to adjust jets right down

Ok so I've been troubleshooting with my 260 Z it has hs6 su carbs rather than the standard ones but I'm having trouble getting it to fire up from cold and keep running without starter fluid etc. What I just noticed is if I screwed the jet down as far as I could it would just start but I can't adjust to anymore so I figure the float level must be wrong when I had a look both the floats are a plastic type and I can't see any way of adjusting the float level has anyone else had this issue. Because when I topped up both the float bowls a bit higher it's started so I'm pretty sure the float level is my problem

spoke to Warren and he still has no solution other than the 280ZX cap and button, which I guess Ill try. I am taking the cap and rotor to my shop to source the right ones, then I'll post results next week....

I have a 77 260z but dizzy number is D6A5-03, and the stock c as p an DC vroyor wont fit....I think its Hitachi? Any help with part numbers???

I got a mint 81k klms Ti and wish I could get those $ for it

please remove from sale, keeping it for now.

REMOVED FROM SALE 1977 Datsun 260Z 2+2 It has been stored under cover about 14 years in west Qld and was last registered out in Warwick. A guy used it as a commuter but only a short distance and as such I was told by the guy I got it off that the KLMS are genuine (it has been stored 1/3 of its life). The car does look all original and the paint is the factory colour with no signs of a respray (except the dented bits). The car runs and drives. I have put a new clutch master/slave cylinder and hose on, and I have replaced the rear brake cylinders and brake master cylinder but it still needs some new hoses and bleeding, so no foot brakes at present (I am running out of time to spend on her, so for now it has no foot brakes unless I get time). It can be driven on to a trailer etc and handbrake works. I have been working on replacing vacuum lines as all are old and cracked and it is running better the more I do, but still needs some replaced and a tune etc. The carbs will need a kit as cold starts take a while, but once warm she is good. It has a new electric fuel pump and filter. It has a working factory electric sunroof, and it does have factory Air con but that’s not working. It is an ALL MATCHING NUMBERS CAR with original motor. Has all badges and tags etc. There is a little rust, but not the normal scary areas like floors etc, it has very solid floors, boot, windscreen area, and the doors and door jams are all great. The main rust is around some of the lower outer sills and ¼’s. But for a Z car it is on the good end as far as rust. Obviously needs paint unless you want a rat car. The interior is original and the seats/dash has a few cracks but could still be used as is. I always wanted one of these but we are saving for a house deposit, so I need to sell otherwise I’d store it. It is a project that has sat for 14 years, so will need work, but it does run and drive, and has very little rust, so it’s a great start. NOTE: PPQ plates 260ZD are sold separately, buyer gets them for $1000- extra, if not I will sell them after Z car sold for $1500- Asking $12,000- ONO Located on sunshine coast Qld if need it freighted, try LOADSHIFT.com.au for quotes, as they tender out Video of it running. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gGEaVX4yPRc&feature=youtu.be https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1Paiy9hy_Gw&t=4s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gUz4pnGzy7M&t=13s http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab318/ooooops0/z15.jpg~original http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab318/ooooops0/z14.jpg~original http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab318/ooooops0/z19.jpg~original http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab318/ooooops0/z18.jpg~original http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab318/ooooops0/z6_1.jpg~original http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab318/ooooops0/z9_1.jpg~original http://i875.photobucket.com/albums/ab318/ooooops0/z10.jpg~original

thanks I'll get on to it

Hey I've read that bleeding the brakes on a 260z can be a bit of a hassle. I have put a brand new master cylinder on and some new hard lines but it does not want to bleed out of the master cylinder? No fluid comes out the bleed nipples on master at all?