gilltech

I don't think the '260Z' badges for the guards are reproduced, nor the 2+2 pillar badges. But they're not worth very much if the pins are broken off. Yes could be dodgy. Might be better to let it go for a while and let him chase you not the other way around.

I'm with Retro Z, I'd say $200 tops, and that's only if the motor works well and isn't starting to seize up as they are wont to do. Does he really need the motor? I suppose it's plug'n'play though. But on FB he was just asking for the bracket, and the motor will be heavy to post whereas all the rest of the stuff is light.

I've fitted the PR rubbers to my Zed's bumpers and over-riders and had no fitment problems, bolts and holes have lined up just fine. I don't think the 'new old car company' moniker is new, it and 'Phil's Rotaries' are both names used on invoices or receipts I've received over the years I've bought parts off them. I've always had good service from them. I've been in their warehouse, it's not a small operation. I'm on their email list and get regular updates as to what new parts they have acquired for some old Japper or old Holden or whatever.

May I ask what diameter hole they plug into? They look like they would fit a set of wheels I have. Thanks, gilltech

When I've installed new seat covers I've always laid the covers out in the sun first to warm and soften them. And a domestic hairdryer on gentle heat can be useful to work out wrinkles. I think it's mentioned above that a plastic bag over the headrest portion of a highback seat is a useful trick to get the cover to slip on and slide down easier. IMO these repro covers do look a bit more plush than the originals ever were.

Or are rusty.

Pictures?

The old style foams used jute (sacking material) glued to the foam to provide some strengthening where rubbing against the springs. Modern foam is no doubt a better formula. The seat base foam has usually started to collapse and disintegrate after some 40+ yrs, and most foam would have shrunk back somewhat due to environmental conditions and bound up inside tensioned seat covers. If new foam is not practical or economic then all one can do is apply a fresh layer of thin foam (as discussed in the old thread) to build the old ones up again. Especially on either side of the bum bolster to give it more shape. Most repro seat covers seem to come with a thin layer of foam already glued to their insides for that reason, but a given seat may need more help to regain it's shape. IMO your seat looks well short of adequate tension overall and needs the centre sections pulled in tighter; the original Zed seats are quite thin, described in one car review I read as being like egg shells.

Ironic isn't it. All year people have been listing all sorts of rusted out piles of s**t languishing outdoors which are long past any hope of economical or feasible restoration yet still asking mega $$$ (and perhaps in some cases getting it) and here's someone happy to give away the remnants of his (dry-stored!) parts car and other stuff so long as someone can help him out by uplifting it all with urgency. Good on you Guy, all the best with your future plans.

Ah so there's more to it. So how is the column bolted in now? Q. Did the 260 dash just bolt in using the 240 fixing points? I didn't think the two types were interchangeable, but maybe they are using a mix of brackets?

The column bolts down to the floor/bulkhead with 4 bolts, and to the underside of the dash/box structure with 2 bolts, using an ear bracket with slotted holes IIRC???

Ha! Well there you go. Good info! Cheers Gav (and Alan). I've seen a couple of 8-tracks in Zeds in NZ and they looked 'right' with respect to the faceplates but never knew if they were original equipment or not. But NZ has got such a mix of Zeds from various different markets and parts get swapped around so it's hard to know what is original to what. The rear screen demister must have been an option on 240s and 260s in NZ cars at least as some have it and some don't; (mine doesn't but the wiring is there). Dumb not to have it in a wet climate but then NZ-new cars were always historically expensive due to government taxes so cars like mine were typically fairly spartan when it came to the equipment and option list.

If it's any help my bonnet's mounting holes - well, slots actually - are 14.5mm long by 9mm wide. As the mounting bolts are 8mm o/a thread all the bonnet adjustment is with the hinge positions.

The '73 240Z and both versions of the '74 260Z owners' handbooks I have show a AM/FM push-button radio, all 3 show the chrome knob aerial switch (horizontal movement L/R) above the right knob as per Six-Shooter's post above. However, the '78 260Z owner's handbook I have shows an option of AM-only radio, AM/FM radio or stereo tape player. Unlike the other two, the AM-only radio has the black 'vertical' style aerial switch to the right of the RH knob. But in any case both aerial switch types are mounted within the radio faceplate to answer the OP's question. I don't know if there was a 'radio delete' option at all, like was available on Mustangs in the USA for example, HS-30H is bound to know. And who knows what dealers originally fitted and subsequent owners have fitted over the years. I forgot to add that the faceplates are different between 240Z and 260Z due to the different console designs.

Bloody hell, that's a car collection in itself. Hmmm - Brisbane - you didn't used to live in Windsor backing on to the train line did you? From the daily train commute I used to see what looked like three complete 280ZXs sitting in a back yard, but then they disappeared sometime earlier this year IIRC.

I'm with Peter, one never knows what is hiding under any coat of paint POR or whatever nor whether the prep to the bare steel was done correctly. To just paint over the second or third-hand-applied and by now old primer would be very risky and cutting corners. Bonnets in particular cop a lot of heat from both sides and are the most visible panels so paint prep has to be perfect. A person wishing to use the panel would be prudent to strip it back to bare metal both sides and start afresh.

I'd buy one if it turns out to be an acceptable fit with respect to the curve. But as I'm miles away in Brisbane I will just have to sit on the fence and let someone else be the guinea pig. Looking at the eBay ads though one bonnet has already sold. I will contact MCPA to find out what the freight would be to Brisbane.

An oldie but goodie. People used to say that to me back in the '70s when I had a SSS. Ho hum.

The 240Z 'wood' type wheel fits the 260Z but you need the whole thing horn parts and all; none of the bits and pieces interchange between the two.

Read it again guys. Gav is not saying his imported bonnet panel is from the same source as MCP's is but simply saying 'buyer beware' just in case it is. His looks poorly formed and folded and has various creases that shouldn't be there, plus the overall curvature is well out as his photos demonstrate. As he points out, that level of quality comes from worn stamping dies. The unknown factor is whether there is only the one source of repro panel, currently, and whether Gav's panel is one of those. Alternatively his could be an old stock repro item left over from years ago - at one time there was speculation in Zed circles (now many years ago) that repro bonnets were likely coming available after the Nissan NOS supply had dried up but then I never heard any more about it. More research needed!

See eBay - as of just a few months ago all the 2-seater glass is now available from Autoglasswarehouse.

You've got three threads going on what is basically the same issue, how about dropping two and combining them?

Could be getting vapour lock due to excessive heat under the bonnet. How good is your cooling system?

Ditto exactly what WA240Z advises. The stock brakes are fine for normal street applications when fitted with good quality - not low budget - components and then properly maintained. As already stated, make sure all the mechanical components - not just the braking system - are in very good shape and you will have many years of enjoyable driving for far more reasonable outlay than otherwise probably superfluous upgrades - there are plenty of aftermarket suppliers out there who will happily take your hard-earned - which suck up far more $$$ for limited if any real return other than perhaps bragging rights!

Ditto what everyone else is saying. Your car is starving for fuel. The effect of pulling the choke on makes that clear. BTW, leave the ATF alone, don't mess with it, as long as the correct quantity is in there then that's got nothing to do with it.