Scando

That would be awesome. Might want a bit more than $40K though. I know it cost over $200K to build a 1km go-kart track. That was on the cheap too because the guy that did it had two sons racing at the time.

True, it's still pretty good when the main guys like Ponting, Hussey and Clark are in form but it lacks the consistancy of the old Hayden & Langer opening partnership.

It's all booked. I'm only going monday & tuesday now so I'll only be able to do something monday night. I'm staying at 100 Exhibition St so fairly well in the city centre.

We've still got a good batting side, just depends how the young bowlers will go. Not too bad last night. I'm just stoked to have some cricket on the tele

The best way to contact him is to call the BP Dover servo and ask for Mick. I have his mobile number but most of the time he's out of range or doesn't answer it.

He has pretty much everything! Mick is a top bloke, I get most of my 2nd hand bits off him.

Hi folks Looks like I'll be in Melbourne monday to wednesday next week for work. I was just wondering if a few people might be interested in getting together for a meal and/or a drink on monday or tuesday night to discuss all things Z and help me put a few faces to names. I'm not sure where I'm staying but it should be somewhere in the CBD. I'll know everything a bit clearer by the end of the week. Anyway, if a few people are keen we'll organise something. Cheers Shane -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- 13/7/2009, 7:30PM AT 'LA PORCHETTA', (southern end of) FITZORY STREET, ST KILDA.

Thanks NZeder. Do you remember roughly what it cost? I don't really use the tacho so I don't want to spend a fortune. I might just try to find a cheap aftermarket one a similar size and try to fit it in the original spot.

A bit of both but maily on the shaft. We tried putting the plastic bush off the Hitachi shaft onto the Mitsubishi shaft which has a metal bush normally. This made it a lot better but still not perfect. Sounds like the turbo dizzy is a better design. Good luck, I'll be interested to hear what you end up with so I can copy it later on

Hi Dimitri We seem to have mine just about sorted with the new computer. We only went for multipont injection and batch fire ignition using the distributor as a trigger for now. Just thought I'd let you know some problems we had that might help you decide what to use for a trigger. With the Mitsubishi Electric distributor that was in the car (I think from a 280ZX?) the trigger signal was scattered about 5 degrees at higher revs due to play in the shaft. To get it working we had to swap to a Hitachi distributor from an R30 (Thanks for the loan Bluerat) which are a much better distributor design with no shaft play and they give a better signal for the computer to read. I should also not for people reading this that you have to weld the timing weights so they don't work for this setup. I'm not sure on who makes the turbo dizzy but it looks more like the Mitsubishi Electric design and looks like it may also suffer from shaft play. So I wouldn't trust the trigger signal this setup with the RB30 wheel would send to the computer. In my opinion a CAS as you have mentioned would be a much better setup even if it is a bit harder to set up and not quite as neat. Anyway, hope this info is helpful Cheers Shane

Hi folks Just switched to a computer which controls fuel and ignition as opposed to the old computer which was fuel only. I was wondering if anybody has the standard tacho working off the signal supplied by an aftermarket computer? If so, how did you do it? Also tried hooking it up off the coil the same as it was with the old computer and it stops the car when it's connected.........I did a search and found the threads with the diagrams showing how to get the tacho to work with an electronic distributor. I'll study them and have another go at doing it off the coil but it would be great to get it working from the computer signal. Thanks Shane

That's a nice looking Celica A mate of mine has an aqua '73 model with a 2TG that he did up for his first car. He's a spray painter so it's absolutly immaculate and a very nice looking car. 1JZ would go hard for a street car but might upset the handling. If it were me I'd go a 3SGTE. There's a Celica that races Improved Production here in Tas with a 3SGTE. He has the IP lap record at Baskerville and is always at the pointy end at Aus championships. Awesome car.

Here in Tassie I'm sure it would pass as it is but I know most other states are a lot more strict. If I were to buy the car I would definately do the passenger floorpan straight away and maybe replace the front left guard if you can find one reasonably cheap. From memory the engine is an L28 and has the 240Z carbs and a mild cam. I'm not sure if it was built with flat tops maybe? It's no power house but goes probably a little better than a standard 240Z and runs very smooth. Suspension I think was a full whiteline kit with stiffer springs and swaybars. I think it had Tokico shocks. Don't quote me on any of this, just going on what I remember

I went and looked at this car with my dad a few weeks ago cause he was interested in buying it. It's reasonably tidy, the interior is good. Mechanically it seems perfect. The reason dad didn't buy it was it had a bit of rust in most of the usual places and he doesn't have time for a project. Passenger side floorpan was the worst. But we found some bubbles in one of the sils, one door, one guard, and the beaver panel. Overall it's a pretty good car and I'm very surprised it hasn't already sold at the price he's asking. If you're willing to accept that it will need a few rust repairs in the future then it's a good buy in my opinion. The owner seems like a very genuine guy too. Let me know if there's any other info I can help you with. Cheers Shane

Looks like a good fit. The Rota RB offsets sure suit Z's well

I saw some good tricks in my kart racing days. Hole saws through plastics and the fibreglass seats. Tie rods taken to with a file, etc. Funnily enough, the poeple that did this didn't seem to finish many races......

Nice! It's hard to judge the times being from interstate but I see you're getting pretty close to the IP lap record which normally means a bloody quick car! Good stuff Try around 28-29psi cold at the start of the day. Reset them to around 29-30 just before you go out on the track each time after that. Check them as soon as you come in off the track after each session, if they build up to more than 36 then they're getting too hot so try dropping the starting pressure 1psi at a time. If you're only doing short sprints then you can probably get away with starting them 1-2psi higher. The good thing I found with the Bridgestones is that they're not too critical on pressure. With the Dunlops 1psi makes a big difference!

+1

So how much gain do you think you got roughly with the silverstones? That's very interesting cause I can get Silverstones cheap. I heard a good story about a guy running the softest Silverstones in a tarmac rally. He went through several sets of tyres and they reckon it was near leaving rubber driving in a straight line Was bloody quick though! I was running Bridgestone 540's and then swithced to the 55's when they came out but I think the 540's were a better tyre. I'm running the Dunlop DZ03G in the R compound now. I'm pretty happy with them, about half a second a lap quicker than the Bridgestones.

I ran a welded R180 until I changed to an LSD early this year. It had no problems and I wasn't exactly easy on it on starts With the sticky tyres we run that puts even more load through the diff too. But as V8Datto said, if it's an open diff and you go doing one wheel skids everywhere you will destroy the spider gears in no time. I say weld up the R180, weldys are fun

I didn't think it would be all that quick on a track, too heavy and not enough power.................Then I saw it in action at Symmons and was proven very very wrong! Are those the super soft ones? What were you running before?

You're not going for the two tone look from the pics above then? Looks the goods with the guards pumped out!

Cool! Should provide you and the boys heaps of fun for the future. I've got a couple of these tucked away in the shed. One was my project before the Z came along and is all stripped back and in primer. The other one came with it for parts when I bought it. I'd really like to finish the good one off one day, they're great cars, but my Z keeps taking all of my time and money!

Superlites are the exact opposite of their name. My 17X9 Rotas were lighter than the 15X7 Superlites that were previously on the car! Superlites are a very strong and well designed wheel though. This is why they're popular for motorsport. The steel also doesn't dissipate heat as well as alloy so in longer races the tyre gets hotter and will go off quicker.

A few guys I race against were also looking to get a Tassie team together for the PI 6 hour but I doubt I'll have the funds to do it :-\